Find answers to Frequently Asked Questions for First Generation Firebirds that have been asked on First Generation Firebird-L mailing list. Special thanks needs to be given to all the Firebird-L owners that took the time to respond to other subscribers questions. These pages are continuously updated as new information is posted on the mailing list.
|Q:||Armrest Pad Interchangability|
|I know the arm rest on most 69 G M cars fit and are the same on 68 standard interior, some have chrome strips. These can be found at the wreckers in all colors.|
|A:||He is correct. All 68 thru 72 GM A body cars (Chevelle, GTO/Lemans, Cutlass,Monte Carlo, Skylark, etc) use the same armrest pad and base used in the 68 and 69 Firebird/Camaro standard interior. The inside door handles are the same as well.|
|Q:||Door Panel Reproductions ('68 vs '69)|
|I can buy some repro '69 door panels for my '68 and wonder if it will work. The most obvious difference in theirs (as compared to mine) is the location of the opening for the door lock knob. Those who know its proper location would spot it but those who don't, won't. 'm not a big enthusiast but in my opinion, it's a poor reproduction and I intend to keep looking. I don't want to have to deal with altering the locking mechanism, either. Any ideas?|
|A:||The only difference between 68 and 69 is the location of the lock. You must punch it in the proper location for the year you have. Actually the reproduction door panels are better than the originals. The cardboard material that was used is prone to warpage and rot. New ones use ABS plastic which wont rot or warp when wet. Perhaps Year One can supply you with a blank set to put your own lock hole in.|
|A:||If you purchase new Custom door trim panels, the '68 and '69 are the same before they punch the hole for the door lock button. In '68 it was close to the rear of the door, but in '69 it was relocated about 9-10" forward so drivers didn't have to reach around behind themselves to unlock the door. This was done across the GM line in 1969. Used panels would only work well from a '68.|
|Q:||Door panel clip holders|
|I am having a hard time finding the plastic clip holders that the metal door panel clips fit into to hold it to the door. Where can I find this part?|
Just wanted to pass along a little info...
I was ready to install my front door panels in my 69 and was missing the plastic insert that goes into the holes on the door. The inserts are shaped like a bullet and are used to hold the metal clip that is fastened to the door panels. I took one of the remaining inserts to the local Chevy parts counter and had no luck. I also tried the paint and body supplies, also no luck. I could buy the metal clip all day long but not the plastic insert.
At this point I headed to my local hardware store to look for something that would work. I found that a 3/8 drywall anchor had the correct outer dimensions. I measured the inside of the old insert and used a 5/32 drill bit to open the inside to the correct dimension (drilled about 5/8" deep). I then used a razor knife to trim the three ribs off the side (used to grip the drywall) and "snap", they worked great. And the best part is they only cost me $0.10 each.
Now, I know after all this, someone on the list will tell me they have the GM part number to order the correct inserts. And, I would gladly accept it... for the next project.
|Q:||Parchment Interior '68 vs '69|
|Was the parchement interior the same color from '68 to '69? I can buy some '69 quarters and wonder if they will match or will I need to spray them?|
|A:||As far as the correct match of parchment, 68 and 69 differ. The only way to get all panels to match is to spray them. I use the word "spray" instead of "dye" as it more correct. Check the achieves for more on parchment "spraying".|
|Q:||Window Crank Interchangability|
|I can buy some window cranks for a 69 coupe kinda cheap and I was wondering if they will fit my 68 coupe.|
|A:||The window cranks are the same for 68 and 69, but there are 2 different length shafts where the crank handle attaches. The short shaft is for standard trim, and the longer shaft is to clear the thickly padded and molded door trim panels in the Custom trim option cars. I believe the rears are the same standard or Custom.|
|A:||Unless Im dreaming the 67 is different than the later years I ll pull out some old ones and compare I ve got about 2-1/2 gallons of them( 5 gallon bucket half full) Hey since the chrome is the part that goes sour most often buy the replacements (in the auto parts stores under the "Help" line of parts) remove the black or clear knobs and relace with your red or aqua or ivy gold knobs. Or see if the clear ones will dye. Try the Ritz dye heated to boiling in a coffee cup in the microwave. Keep dipping until desired color is obtained. Of course white is the easiest to dye but they are hard to find in nice shape. Oh yea incase no ones answered yet the 68-9 regulators are the same front, rears 67-9 Like said before are 2 different lenghts in front for standard and Custom trim.|
|Q:||Removing Window Crank|
|How do you get the window cranks out of the door? I was trying to take my door apart since sometimes it locks and won't open, but couldn't figure out how to get the window crank off without tearing it up.|
there is a clip on the inside of the crank shaped kinda like a horseshoe that you need to pull out since it locks it to the knurled crank shaft. You'll need a tool shaped like a small hook and it has to be thinner than a coat hanger but it needs to be steel or something that won't bend. I use a spring puller.
Here's what you do:
Point the crank with the handle away from you. Push the door pannel in as far as you can with your hand Use a flash light if needed to look behind the crank You should see a notch on the back of the crank where you can put the tool through and grab the wire clip Pull back hard and the clip will pop out (don't lose it if you're going to use the same crank. New ones usually come with clips) Make sure you also note the sequence of the spiral spring and the plastic spacer.
To re-install, snap the clip on and then you push on the crank and it will snap over the knurled part and lock in.
I hope this was clear enough. It almost helps to look at a crank already pulled out to see what it looks like.
Take a plain old wire coat hanger and bend a 90 degree angle at the end of it. The bent part should no more than 1/4". Now, depress the door panel slightly. Ordinarily hidden from view, you will see a formed wire clip that is snapped around the window crank. It is very difficult to see, so use a flashlight. (look in a Firebird catalog to see the back side of a window crank). It's easier to figure out once you've seen one. Once you've seen the wire clip, simply hook the back side of it with your new tool and pull gently. The clip will come loose and the crank then pulls straight off.
As someone else said. It's soooooo simple once you figure it out. And once you have, you won't need to look at the backside anymore. You'll just slip the tool in and do your work blindfolded.
P.S. Don't damage that door panel!!! Be careful!!!