Find answers to Frequently Asked Questions for First Generation Firebirds that have been asked and answered on FGF. Special thanks needs to be given to all the FGF members who took the time to respond to other member's questions.
Interior - General Info
Q: Custom Trim Option (Code 554)
My billing history indicates my 1968 came with custom trim. What was included with this option?
A: For the 1968 Firebird, the Custom Trim Option (554) included the following….
Custom Seat Covers (Morrokide and stitched knit vinyl)
Custom Molded Door and Quarter Trim Panels, Assist Bar (above Glovebox) Dual Horns, Deluxe Wheel Covers, Deluxe Steering Wheel, Custom Pedal Trim, Front & Rear Wheel Opening Moldings, Drip Rail Mldgs (Coupes), Windshield Pillar Garnish Mldg. There are some who have been saying (in error) that only those cars with the Custom Trim Option had the etched white ‘Bird’ on the front side glass; this is not so and has been proven by many original STANDARD trim Firebirds.
The RH sideview mirror was not a part of the Custom Trim Option.
Many owners upgraded or opted to delete certain things beyond the Custom Trim Option (wheel opening mldgs, wheel covers, steering wheel). Additionally, all of the components of the Custom Trim Option could be ordered separately on a Standard Trim car except for the Custom Seats and Trim Panels and Assist Bar
A: Use following link to find more information about the Custom Trim Option on FGF: More Information
Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.
Content last modified: January 25, 2014 at 10:11 am
Q: Custom Trim Option
I am confused that my car has the custom option trim (554) but it only has standard interior.
A: The Custom Trim Option with custom seats for the 1968 Firebird was identified on the Firewall Trim Tag as Style 22667 (conv) -or- 22637 (coupe). (22467 and 22437 were Std. Interiors). According to the sales literature, the Custom Trim Option (code 554) included the following…..
-
Deluxe Wheel Discs
-
Deluxe Steering Wheel
-
Door and Quarter Trim (molded vinyl)
-
Vinyl and Weave pattern Seats
-
Roof Rail Mldgs
-
Wheel Opening Mldgs
-
Instrmt. Panel Grip (Grab Bar)
-
Pedal Trim
-
Dual Horns
There are other features that were apparently associated with the Custom Trim Option that were not so obvious such as the different (longer) window regulators. Some items have also been speculated to have been also included such as…
-
160 mph Speedo
-
“BIRD” Emblem on Glove Box Door
-
Custom (Deluxe) Seat Belts (brushed metal buckles w/GM button)
-
Small white “BIRD” etched onto fwd/lower corner of front side glass
-
Windshield ‘A’ pillar Mldgs (interior) ??
-
Wheel Trim Rings (when ordered w/Rally II wheel option)
All items in the Custom Trim Option could have been ordered individually on a 22467 (or 22437) car except the Deluxe Interior, 22667 (or 22637).
A: The body tag series number changed to reflect the custom trim option (Code 554) and had a different number for custom interior (26) or standard interior (24):
-
22437 std interior with custom trim option (coupe)
-
22467 “” (CONV)
-
22637 deluxe interior with custom trim option (coupe)
-
22667 “” (CONV)
A: Use following link to find more information about the Custom Trim Option on FGF: More Information
Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.
Content last modified: January 25, 2014 at 10:11 am
Q: Ashtray Replacement
I am looking for a replacement ashtray for my 1968. Will the ones sold in the Ames Performance Engineering or Year One catalog be an exact replacement?
A: One more thing – I checked the Year One catalog. Their ashtray has a note, ” Note: 1967-68 models were equipped with rear ashtrays with ribbed covers. The new part will fit correctly but does not have the ridges on the covers.”
A: Just one more note – these ashtrays changed size in 68. The 1967 ones are noticeably larger than the 1968/1969 ones. I know this cuz the 1967 set I found in a junkyard don’t fit in my 1968 and 1969 bird.
Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.
Content last modified: January 19, 2014 at 3:05 pm
Q: Rearview Mirror Flaking
I reinstalled the rearview last night and like some others on the list the silvering has begun to peel off the back of the mirror itself. My housing is in perfect condition, but the mirror looks awful. It looks like the mirror is piece of glass. I was thinking I could disassemble the mirror and get a new piece cut at a glass shop. Anyone ever attempted this?
A: Yes, mine is faking, too. Replacing the glass with standard mirrored glass might be OK, but you should consider that the day/night effect would be lost in doing that. You may want to find a day/night mirror to replace yours or have the original mirror re-silvered. That’s the option I might choose if I can’t find a a good quality repro at a reasonable price.
Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.
Content last modified: January 19, 2014 at 3:08 pm
Q: Kick Panel Removal
How do I remove the kick panel? I have tried everything and am worried I am about ready to break them or my knuckles.
A: When removing the panels( this is one thing that is easier to do on an A/C equipted car) I have found , as others have said, to use proper force. However with a proper fulcrum and lever,you can move the world… or at least the kick panels. heres how you do this:
-
make certain all screws are removed(dont laugh some are hidden)
-
remove complete emergency brake assembly (dont cheat here either)
-
gently remove the panels until they are caught by the ribbing, this will give you at least 3 inches of space between the panel and cowl
-
insert desired lenght of 2×4 against the part of panel that ribbing is at
-
push against the panel at ribbing, towards front of car with 2×4 while also prying against the cowl as to pop the panel out. keep in mind that the panel is plastic and is somewhat forgiving in that it will return to its former shape if excessive force isnt used.
You will then be able to remove kick panels in a matter of seconds, and with this new found knowledge will frequent junk yards to remove all that you can find.Well ,maybe.
If you are careful enough and you dont break the upper skinny part,you can reuse the old panels.Be sure and lube up the flapper cables and reseal the cowl to kick panel with generous amounts of duct seal. This is neccessary for a leak proof(water and wind) installation. Installation is much easier as the panels seem to pop right in . (be careful and dont push on the grille portion as this will break.)This is also a good time to remove all the leaves and dead critters from the cowl plenum and rust proof it on the inside.
Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.
Content last modified: January 19, 2014 at 3:10 pm
Q: Firewall Padding Removal
My firewall interior padding is in sad shape and I think there is some rust back there which I would like to repair. My question is how do I remove the dash to get to that area and replace everything. It looks like the dash is welded to the body without any way to remove it short of cutting it out and welding it back in?
Another question. How to I remove the parking brake assembly. Is it riveted into the Firewall, or are there some tricky bolts which are in some utterly unaccessable location which I need to remove.
A: To replace the firewall padding you do NOT need to remove the dash. But, you do need to remove the following: Air/Heater box, steering column, or anything else that is bolted through the padding and into the firewall.
The Air/Heater box is a difficult task with an assembled car. the bolts located under the passenger side fender is next to impossible to reach without removing the fender. It can be done so just take you time.
The parking brake is bolted in three places: one bolt on the bottom of the dash and two nus on the motor side of the firewall. These two are partially hidden if you have power brakes. look between the booster and slightly under the fender to the right of the wiring block. Once the pedel assembly is loose the cable is easily detached.
Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.
Content last modified: January 19, 2014 at 3:11 pm
Q: Firewall Gloss Level
What is the correct gloss level for the Firewall.
A: I sent an E-Mail to Jim Mattison regarding gloss level on the firewall since the High Performance Pontiac articles were unclear. Here is the response he sent me…..
Thanks for the kind words on my 1967 Ram Air Firebird. The car looks much better in person than it does in the magazine.
To answer your question concerning engine compartment detailing, the gloss level on the firewall area is a 85% black.
I hope that this information is helpful!
Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.
Content last modified: January 19, 2014 at 3:17 pm
Q: Assist Handle, Hood Light and Compass Location, and Head Rests Questions for 1968
Was the assist handle over the glovebox an option on any Firebird? Or only on custom Interior equiped Birds? Where exactly were trunklight and under -the- hood light mounted (dimentions?) Where was compas mounted? Was there headrests available on 1968 models?
A: Yes, custom interior equiped Firebirds received the assist handle over the glovebox. These cars also had the Instrument panel emblem on the glovebox door. Headrests were an optional addition on the 1968 (Code 572). I will have to ask around or wait for someone to tell me before I can answer the questions where the hood light and compass were mounted.
Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.
Content last modified: January 19, 2014 at 3:19 pm
Q: Colors of Interior Parts with Parchment
Anyone out there with a 1968 Parchment-colored Custom Interior. I have some questions.
-
What color is the carpet in your car ? Is it black or parchment ? Mine is missing.
-
What color are the kickpanels ? Mine are black
-
What color is the U-shaped (in cross-section) strip that goes in the door jam ? Mine is missing also ?
A: Your answers:
-
The carpet should be black.
-
As with the carpet, the kickpanels should be black also.
-
That should be parchment in color.
Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.
Content last modified: January 19, 2014 at 3:21 pm
Q: Correct Interior Colors for 1968
Does anyone know the original color of the rear speaker grilles in the 1968 coupe and other interior parts? I need to repaint and want to get it correct.
A: Flat colors : Upper instrument panel,rear window defroster grille,radio speaker grille.
DuPont # for Flat Black is 4428L
Semi-gloss: Lower instrument panel,rear seat folding back panel assembly, air outlet bushing.
Black 88L
Dark Red 9201LM
Dark Blu Met 94520H
Dark Teal met 9453LH
Dark Turq.met 9454LH
Dark Gold met 9456L
Dark Saddle met 9458L
Note: Rear package tray is FLAT not semi Gloss. Black would be black, Parchment (white) would be black, Red would be Red
A: The 1968 Pontiac Dealer Service Information Bulletin varied slightly for the color codes mentioned above. I would want to use them first:
[pdfjs-viewer url=/dtb/docs/68-I-12.pdf viewer_height=800px fullscreen=true download=false print=true]
Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.
Content last modified: January 19, 2014 at 3:22 pm
Q: Plastic Part Paint Stripping and Painting
Once the dash is a beautiful new rich deep color of black, what’s the best method of adding the chrome trim back on? Or even retouching the chrome? I’ve tried model chrome paint but that looked very ugly (could have been the shaky hands!)
Does anyone have any advice for stripping paint off of plastic parts? I attempted to repaint my dash and let’s just say the first attempt didn’t go so well. Can I use off the shelf paint stripper?
A: paint stripper is too harsh for plastic. It will soften the plastic and even melt the edges. A mixture of Xylene and lacquer thinner will remove just about any paint, but it too can damage plastic if not applied and removed quickly. Chemical strippers are tricky on metal and far worse on plastics.
As for the chrome trim around the bezels, I’ve used a silver paint marker made by Testors(as in model paint). This looks almost like a magic marker but uses paint instead. Be sure to wet the felt of the paint marker real good by pressing down on a hard surface. If you don’t have plenty of paint and stop you will see the seam. I m current working on another project of using chrome vinyl to refinish the chrome trim on the bezels. This will look just as the factory did but can be applied after the dash panel is painted.
Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.
Content last modified: January 19, 2014 at 3:24 pm
Q: Headliner Installation
I am about ready to install a headliner but I wonder how to approach this and have a few other quesitons … How many bows should I have? My old headliner is missing but there are four bows in place on the roof. Is there no center bow? My new headliner has a bow pocket in the center. But the car (67) looks like no centerbow existed. The interior light is there and there is a wide rail running across the roof at that point. Also there are some pointed barbs along side this rail. Do I connect the center bow pocket to these barb-hooks somehow?
A: Yes there should be a bow in the center. It’s different than the others (shorter) and does not hook into the side roof rail. Those barbs hold it (center bow and headliner) in place and give you a starting point. The center bow threads thru that pocket in your new liner. Installation is impossible without this bow.
Tips:
Strip the interior(yes, everything) windshield and back glass, package tray and all weather moulding retainers etc..
Mark and number the bows to so they go back in original holes. Mark which hole they come out of too.
Put small screws in place before installing headliner. It makes it easier to find the holes after the headliner is installed. You dont need to do this for the visors, mirror or shoulder belt anchor bolts if you have them. But, make sure to cut a big enough hole for them or you could break them when reinstalling like I did. That’s a bear!
Start in the center and work your way out, forward, and then to the back. At front and rear, start at the center and work toward corners.
The glue is very forgiving of mistakes even though it sets up quickly. You will need more glue than supplied with the kit. You can take your empty can to the local auto upholstry shop for a refill, their’s come in 3 gallon cans.
When done, either steam it or spray water on it to shrink it up tight as a drum.
A: Just thought I’d pass along a success story… this weekend I installed a new head liner in my 69. Whew!!! What a job. ( I feel like the guy in the commercial who holds up a sign in front of the camera at the football game).
This is definitely a job that was made easier by having an extra set of hands. A buddy came over to assist but neither of us had a clue how to start. What we decided to do was to start at the front middle and pull it tight toward the corner (I applied a thin coat of 3M adhesive in the areas to be pulled) and slipped on the pinch molding as we went along.
We then started on the side at the second rib and pulled out. At each point we would slip the pinch molding on to hold it tight while working toward the front. When we pulled at the corner from the side we pulled out and toward the front again slipping on the pinch molding to hold it in place.
We then moved to the back middle, pulled it tight and moved toward the corner. We moved to the next to last rib and pulled it down tight. We used the tack strip that is located behind the sail panels to hold the fabric tight. At the last rib we pulled it tight under the tach strip and used a screw and washer to secure it tight.
After both side were complete the results were great. Not perfect but very nice. The car is coming together and I hope to have the interior completed in a couple of weeks. By the way, I can’t imagine how this is done with the windshield and rear window in place.
Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.
Content last modified: January 19, 2014 at 3:25 pm
Q: Carpet Installation (One Piece)
Has anyone installed the one piece reproduction carpet? If so, do you have any tips.
A: I installed a black carpet kit from ACC and was pleased with the quality. All the backing was good. I positioned the carpet over the high beam switch and the rest pretty much fell into place. It fit better than the original. One tip: Dont cut holes in the carpet to mount the seat brackets through in the rear seat area, just cut three sided slots about 1 1/2 by 11/2 inch and fold them back so that you can screw in the bolt, then fold the flap back over the bolt. Looks better than factory.
A: Thats funny all the factory installed carpet I’ve pulled out had flaps over the rear of front seat brackets. Another tip is not to cut the slots at all but use a scratch awl to locate center of holes then make a small incision just where the bolts go.Another tricky one is the boot area around a manual trans. Be sure and cut just enough for the shifter to work ok and leave the rest.Its very easy to cut too large a hole here. It wont hurt to have a little extra around the shifter hole.
Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.
Content last modified: January 19, 2014 at 3:27 pm
Q: Key Replacement
I have lost the keys to my Firebird. Is there anyway to replace these or do I need to replace all my locks?
A: If you have the billing history for your car from PHS it lists the four digit ignition key and trunk key codes. Take this to a GM dealer and they can look up the code in the key code book and get the 6 cuts and punch a key with the curtis keycutter they all have.
If you don’t have the codes the four digit codes are stamped on the original door lock and trunk lock cylinders also. The door matches the ignition (unless someone changed something) and the trunk matches the glove box.
Their are six cuts on the keys with 5 possibilties for each. Example, my 1967 bird ignition and doors are 7W05, in key cuts this is 532242. The trunk and glove box was 2X52, which is 431132. The cuts are from the head to tip holding the head to the right. The dealers use a punch or knotching tool which you set the dials to those numbers in that order. They did not use the grinders you see in hardware stores, it is a simple hand tool.
The correct key blanks for 1967 are A blank for door and ignition and B blank for trunk and glove box, the ignition has a octagon head with the Briggs and Stratton logo and the trunk is more of a rounded scallopped head with the logo. Dealers also have the tumblers to code any of the cylinders also.
Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.
Content last modified: January 19, 2014 at 3:28 pm
Content last modified: September 15, 2023 at 11:15 am