First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List Re: spare parts by "Kevin Young" <kyoung@sagelink.net> Re: Fuel line tricks?? by "Kevin Young" <kyoung@sagelink.net> Re: Thinking about lowering my car.....and front end rebuild/springs too! by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Re: spare parts by "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Re: Fuel line tricks?? by "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Re: Vent flex hose by "Kevin Young" <kyoung@sagelink.net> Re: Steering wheel restoration information RA4 by "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Re: Fuel line tricks?? by "GTOken" <GTOken@ipa.net> re gas line by "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Ralley gauge repair by "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Re: Fuel line tricks?? by <PStonebrak@aol.com> Re: Fuel line tricks?? by "R & P" <Ronsoy@bellsouth.net> Re: Vent flex hose by "R & P" <Ronsoy@bellsouth.net> re clutches by "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net>
(back) Subject: Re: spare parts From: "Kevin Young" <kyoung@sagelink.net> Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 19:34:56 -0600 A regular hood in good shape, between 150 and 300, After reading the = other threads on it I understand now how it was Accidental sold Thanks Kevin kyoung@sagelink.net http://www.n-link.com/~kyoung ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin J. Livingston" <kjdoc@home.com> To: "First Generation Firebird-L" <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 1:50 PM Subject: Re: spare parts > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > Kevin Young wrote: > > > > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > > .......................................................................... > > Kevin, I guess I am lost..... how did you ACCIDENTALLY sell your 69 = 400? > > Shouldn't the parts go to the guy who accidentally bought the car? > > > > (Sorry just couldn't resist that one =3D:) ) > > > > Thanks > > Kevin > > > OUCH!! No, all was negotiated. He gets all the "essential" stuff. He > didn't want the flat/standard hood which also I could use a relative > price for. > > Kevin
(back) Subject: Re: Fuel line tricks?? From: "Kevin Young" <kyoung@sagelink.net> Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 19:38:38 -0600 I highly recommend getting a tubing bender from either your local sears or snap on dealer.... well worth the few bucks and a much cleaner ,,,,, professional looking job, with accurate bends and no kinks. yes you can join them together with a couple clamps and a piece of rubber fuel line. Thanks Kevin kyoung@sagelink.net http://www.n-link.com/~kyoung
(back) Subject: Re: Thinking about lowering my car.....and front end rebuild/springs too! From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 17:40:22 -0800 another option I havent seen martioned on the list .. Guldstrand Enginering and Herb Adams VSE both make and recomend 1/2" or so = spacers in place of the ruber body bushings to lower the car on the frame(drops the nose about an inch)without affecting the original = suspension geometry(in reality , caster would be a tad less negative) I was thinking of trying to make a set, as the poly kits are both = expensive and back ordered. Anyone have experience with this setup? or exact dimensions of the spacers? Rowan *68 >From: Bob Cisneros <Bob.Cisneros@Ebay.Sun.COM> >......................................................................... >Brad writes: > >My front end is so bad that the tires i put on a year and a half ago = are > >showing wire in the front while the rear looks fine. I figure my = springs >are > >shot after 33 years so where should i get them I''ve seen so many >different > >ones and should i think about lowering... > >Right now i figure: > > the super pst front end kit > > new Kyb shocks all around( any other ideas for these) > > new springs( where should i get these?) > > 2 new tires for front > > > >This is for a 67 firebird 400 convertible no-a/c and I want to do it = for >as > >little as possible as long as it is done right. Its a dailey driver = but >i > >want good response. Help me out here as I want this to be unchanged = for >at > >least next 10-15 years(except shocks). > >The bad wear on your front tires could be due to a number of >problems including poor alignment, bent or loose tie rods, >bad ball joints, or odd ride height (as in the front or rear >too high or low). > >If the ride height is fairly close, and the front end components >are worn originals, you should indeed consider rebiulding the >front end. > >Buying a complete kit from any one of the mail order houses is >a good starting point. There will still be some amount of parts >chasing to be done, but it will get you most of what you need. >For instance, none of the kits include a center link or pitman >arm. Those, if needing replacement, will have to be sourced >seperately. > >As for the KYB shocks, I have them on two of my cars, and quite >frankly, while they are reasonably priced, I find that they ride >rather poorly. The rear of both my El Camino and the Firebird >convertible is too bouncy and stiff. Of course, these are both >cars with a strong front end weight bias. When I can afford to, >I'll probably switch to either Edelbrock or Koni shocks. > >Springs. Eaton or ESPO Springs 'N' Things can sell you lower >than stock springs that should also deliver a good ride, >while not draining your wallet too much. > ><http://espo.com/> > >Lower springs will limit suspension travel, so there is always >a compromise in how aggressive you can drive on very rough >roads or steep driveways. > >Dropped spindles are a better way, but quite costly. Say $400 >or so for the spindles, plus they will require you to use a >'78 or later Malibu brake caliper (assuming you have disk brakes >already). > > >This is for a 67 firebird 400 convertible no-a/c and I want to do it = for >as > >little as possible as long as it is done right. Its a dailey driver = but >i > >want good response. Help me out here as I want this to be unchanged = for >at >least next 10-15 years(except shocks). > >Fair enough. Just spend your money where it counts. 'Cause if you >go too cheap somewhere, you'll probably have to do it over again >sooner rather than later. > > >I want to get longer lasting polygraphite but how do you install = zerks?? >Is > >this necessary? I know my personality and after all this money and = time >I DO > >NOT want squeaks so please explain it as if you were talking to someone = >who > >only got his car a year and a half ago and never did this. > >You'll probably get 10 or 15 years of decent wear out of rubber >bushings, and a less bouncy ride to boot. Poly bushings can be >harsh, and we all know about the dreaded squeaking. You can refer >to the archives for several lively discussions on how excited >various believers are on the subject. > >To set up your bushings for zerk fittings, you need to remove the >bushing from it's metal shell (do this before installing in the >control arms). They may take some persuading. But don't get carried >away. Cut a groove in the bushing around it's circumference, and >measure how far from the end this groove is. Reinstall the bushing >in it's shell. Try to cut your groove at about the same distance >from the ends so that you have only one dimension to work with. > >Now you can install the bushings in the control arms. It may cost >you a few bucks, but having a machine shop with a press can save >you a lot of frustration when doing it yourself. Your choice. Most >poly bushing come with a special white grease or lube that _must_ >be used when installing them. Be sure that happens. > >Once they are in place, buy your standard SAE grease fittings >(zerks) at the parts store, and get a drill bit appropriate >for the required hole before taping. Most drill bit cases have >a chart that shows you what size bit is needed for say, a >1/4" tapped hole. You can find similar charts in the very good >general repair manuals such as the Motors books. I can't recall >if the Chiltons or Haynes has them. > >Drill through the control arm and bushing shell, all the way >through the bushing material to the inner sleeve. But not >through the sleeve itself. This hole should intersect with >the groove you cut earlier. Tap some threads into you new >hole, and try to get as much of the shavings and metal bits >out of the way. Thread in the zerks. By the way, you can >also do this with the sway bar bushings as well. > >Most bearing greases are fairly water soluble, so I like to >use a special grease for marine applications called AquaLube. >You can get it at just about any boat repair or marine supply >store. The stuff is very gooey, and has the consistency of >chewing gum. Try and keep it out of your hair and clothes. > >Pump the bushings until it starts to ooze out of the sides, >and re-grease perhaps once a year, or when you might hear any >squeaking. This will kill the squeaks, but do nothing to >change the ride. > >This is a very common road racing trick that members of the >Northern California Shelby Club shared with me. They buy >track time at a number of the great racing venues in >California such as Lagina Seca, Sears Point, Thunder Hill, >etc, and open their events to all makes and models provided >you pass a reasonable saftey tech inspection. They also hold >track schools so you can learn how to handle your car safely >at speed. Very worthwhile indeed! > >-Bob Cisneros San Jose, CA > 1968 Convertible > > bob.cisneros@Ebay.Sun.COM > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: Re: spare parts From: "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 19:42:35 -0600 Roy, That tactic saved my ass a bunch of time. My wife decided that she wanted = to remodel the house. I can tell you first hand that it get out of control = just as fast as restoring an old car. The return on investment is just as = bad too. Frank >Maybe its time to get your wife an expensive hobby (like mine has) so = >when >those discussion come up, you can remind her of her little contributions = to >debt.
(back) Subject: Re: Fuel line tricks?? From: "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 19:44:54 -0600 Get a tubing bender or their is a technic were you fill the inside of the = tube with sand. Frank >>> jwern@gw.total-web.net 12/31/00 03:52PM >>> First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List .......................................................................... Hello all and Happy New Year. I was runnnig my fule lines today and I krimped the fuel line and tried to straighten it out and well yes you can probably guess it broke in two. The line is so hard to bend. Anyhow I went ahead and ran the rest of it. My question is, Can I connect these two lines with a hose? The break is back near the front of the rear tire, right where it makes a sharp turn and goes up sort of a 90 degree bend. Do they make a splice for fuel lines? I took a spare piece of line and heated it with my MAPP torch to see if it would bend easier. It does but it breaks the metal down. So no go. Any suggestions? Thanks so much. John.
(back) Subject: Re: Vent flex hose From: "Kevin Young" <kyoung@sagelink.net> Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 19:44:05 -0600 Larry, I asked that question and ran into the same dilemma your are now seeing, I went to all the specialty places around to no avail, So I took = an old innertube and made my own, it took several tries but the one that = worked best was for a 8.00 x 6 for my riding lawnmower, and a lot of = weather-strip adhesive glue. Good Luck Thanks Kevin kyoung@sagelink.net http://www.n-link.com/~kyoung ----- Original Message ----- From: "larry diede" <ldiede@bangkok.com> To: <Firebird-l@oakmediacreations.com> Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 5:07 PM Subject: Vent flex hose > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > I have my dash torn apart and need to replace the flex hose that goes = from the cowl induction area scoop to the ball deflector valve in the dash (68, no air cond.) If I remember right someone on the list once mentined using shop vac. hose, howecer I checked and it is only 2 inch. The vents are 3 1/4" OD. Does anyone have any ideas on where to source this 3 1/4" ID = hose or what will work as a suitable substitute? Stumped again. > > Thanks in advance. > > Larry
(back) Subject: Re: Steering wheel restoration information RA4 From: "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 19:56:44 -0600 Jason, I ran the 041 cam 4 degrees advanced in a 400 with a 4 speed and 3.23 and = 4.11. The motor was a dog until about 2500 rpm. Don't do it unless you = have a low rear gear and a 2500 stall converter. Get the summit cam. K802 = I think. its pretty much the same as the RAIII cam 068 but has a 0.450 or = so lift. The RA4 cam works real good in a street 455. Get rid of the intake. You will be surprised at how much smaller the = runners are when compared to the stock intake. Frank >>> jason.rogers@york.com 12/29/00 08:46AM >>> First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List .......................................................................... Thanks Mike and Steve for the info. I think I might try that POR Kit. I = am thinking that the steering wheel came from the Parchement interior. I have a 69 Firebird for a daily driver. It has a 400, 670 heads, = Edelbrock P4B intake (yeah I know it is garbage), Holley 750 vac sec, Headers, I = think it has a Crane Fireball Cam (216 216 290/290 110 .454/.454), 9.5 pistons I think (it runs fine on 89 octane with 34 total timing) and HEI. The car = has run a best of 13.55 at 99 on street tires. My question is: 1.) I was thinking of putting in the 041 cam (230 240 308/320 114 ..470/.470). Would this be a streetable cam with a stock converter? = Should I advance it or put it in straight up? How do I know if I will have interference problems if I do not know what pistons and what the heads are for sure? Is it pretty safe to say there would be no problems? I was thinking about using the Rhoades variable lifters, any comments? Jason OPRA Member For those that live the legend! http://www.outlawpontiacs.com/main.php3 My page: http://users.supernet.com/jprogers/ --
(back) Subject: Re: Fuel line tricks?? From: "GTOken" <GTOken@ipa.net> Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 20:15:23 -0600 I bought a cheapie tubing bender from WalMart for under $10. Im sure they are available from any parts store for about that price. You might try that on future tubing projects. If you end up splicing with rubber hose just try to get the thickest wall you can find. If its in an area exposed to road debris I would cover it with some metal protection. x1r1 x wrote: > > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > > If you've gone with stainless line, It will be hard to bend > I'd try to stay away from rubber line in areas you dont see easily = whenever > you open the hood, as the new gas seems to eat the rubber. > If you do a rubber splice, use Fuel injection hose, and try to install = it > with a naturaly straight line so the ends won't chafe. > Straight sections can be Joined using 'compression unions' from the > hardware store. 'They' say not to, but these things work for many = years. > Dont use any goo, just screw em on tight. > If you have, or know somone with a tube flaring tool(maybe you can = rent > one), you could cut out the broken section, reflare the new ends, and = insert > a new peice of line. This would break the line into shorter sections, = and > maybe make the rest of the bending/installing easier. > As for bending, I do most of my bending around the heel of my hand, or = a > rounded object ie. a big socket on a breaker bar, hold the line to the = bar > with ne hand, and wrap the line around the socket with the other. work = from > one end to the other where posible. If you bend around a coffee can = sized > form, kinking shouldnt be any problem. > The more times a section is bent, the brittler it becomes. > On my truck, I had troubble making the line from the frame meet the = fuel > pump inlet, and the bend wes tight enough to collapse rubber hose, so I = bent > a short peice of metal line, shoved it allthe way inside a rubber line, = then > clamped the assembly in place. > With luck, yu'l be criusing tomorrow > Rowan > *68 > > >From: "John Wern" <jwern@gw.total-web.net> > > >Hello all and Happy New Year. I was runnnig my fule lines today and I > >krimped the fuel line and tried to straighten it out and well yes you = >can > >probably guess it broke in two. The line is so hard to bend. > >Anyhow I went ahead and ran the rest of it. My question is, Can I = >connect > >these two lines with a hose? The break is back near the front >of the = rear > >tire, right where it makes a sharp turn and goes up sort >of a 90 = degree > >bend. Do they make a splice for fuel lines? > >I took a spare piece of line and heated it with my MAPP torch to see = >if it > >would bend easier. It does but it breaks the metal down. So no >go. = Any > >suggestions? > > > >Thanks so much. John.
(back) Subject: re gas line From: "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 23:25:19 -0500 Subject: Fuel line tricks?? From: "John Wern" <jwern@gw.total-web.net> Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 16:52:11 -0500 Hello all and Happy New Year. I was runnnig my fule lines today and I krimped the fuel line and tried to straighten it out and well yes you can probably guess it broke in two. The line is so hard to bend. Anyhow I went ahead and ran the rest of it. My question is, Can I connect these two lines with a hose? The break is back near the front of the rear tire, right where it makes a sharp turn and goes up sort of a 90 degree bend. Do they make a splice for fuel lines? I took a spare piece of line and heated it with my MAPP torch to see if it would bend easier. It does but it breaks the metal down. So no go. Any suggestions? Thanks so much. John. John If you dont have the proper tools for tubing youre screwed.(Sounds like youre struggling here), so save some aggravation and buy a pre-bent = replacement line. They are available in both standard steel and stainless. If youre near Orlando I could bend one from an original pattern, but I wouldnt even try and ship it. I wouldnt advise splicing one,its just asking for a leak.I dont like gas leaks...... About the only way to install a new line is put the car 10 feet in the = air. Have a happy new year. Gary
(back) Subject: Ralley gauge repair From: "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 23:31:55 -0500 Neither Frank ,Its a special process. doing 68s but if market calls for it have artwork ready for 69s. Gary >>> >>>Subject: Re: Re ralley gauge repair. From: "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 18:07:00 -0600 Gary, Who refaces your gauges? Do you ink stamp or silk screen the faces. Frank >>> Gary@tcworks.net 12/31/00 09:22AM >>> First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List .............................................................
(back) Subject: Re: Fuel line tricks?? From: <PStonebrak@aol.com> Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 23:52:35 EST How about a compression fitting?
(back) Subject: Re: Fuel line tricks?? From: "R & P" <Ronsoy@bellsouth.net> Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 01:12:01 -0500 Try using a hydraulic brake line repair kit and a flaring tool, I cant really think of a way that's cheap and safe......maybe just getting a new line in regular steel...I'm thinking 22.00 bucks for a flare tool....7.00 for a double flare adapter....8.00 for a hydraulic flare repair...and the cost of line...think there only 40.00 dollars from....NPD. Just a thought....repairs are always "Iffy" They are right about the hose deal...might work for a stuck situation, but don't know about long term, especially if you want to park it. Ron ----- Original Message ----- > .......................................................................... > Well, cash was a little tight. I'm trying rebuild my car as best I can > with what I have to work with. I put most of my cash in the engine, > suspension and disk brakes. But, either way - none of that matters, = I > gotta put these two lines together. any ideas? Thanks again John. > > > >
(back) Subject: Re: Vent flex hose From: "R & P" <Ronsoy@bellsouth.net> Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 01:16:49 -0500 I believe I have a 3 1/4 inch hose with my BIG shop vac If I do will check tues. then I will be sure to give you a number on the vac. Ron ----- Original Message ----- > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > I have my dash torn apart and need to replace the flex hose that goes = from the cowl induction area scoop to the ball deflector valve in the dash (68, no air cond.) If I remember right someone on the list once mentined using shop vac. hose, howecer I checked and it is only 2 inch. The vents are 3 1/4" OD. Does anyone have any ideas on where to source this 3 1/4" ID = hose or what will work as a suitable substitute? Stumped again. > > Thanks in advance. > > Larry > > -----------------------------------------------
(back) Subject: re clutches From: "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Date: Mon, 01 Jan 2001 00:39:23 -0500 To anyone using a M/T and serious power. I hope youre running a scatter shield. Maybe some day I can send you pics of the clutch explosion I had with my 68 bird in 1970. Cut both headers in half, hole in hood size of a bannana,broke input shaft = on Muncie cut heater box,oil pressure gauge line,throttle cable and nicked my tennis = shoe. Biggest piece of bell housing was the size of a fist. Zoom disc looked like a wafer potato chip Ask Don Garlits what it will do to your feet. I was very fortunate to have only mechanical damage. have a Happy New Year Gary