First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List Re: OK don't laugh by "Bob Cisneros" <Bob.Cisneros@EBay.Sun.COM> Re : Part Identification: Backseat Side Panel (Lower) by "Dale J. Barkla" <systech@tig.com.au> Re: Ignition lock. by "Jeff Davis" <Jeff_Davis19@excite.com> Re: Interior Paint Color by "Jeff Davis" <Jeff_Davis19@excite.com> Re: 455 engine pieces recommendations by <KSOS1@aol.com> Re: 455 engine pieces recommendations by <KSOS1@aol.com> Re: 455 engine pieces recommendations by <KSOS1@aol.com> Re: Engine miss battle by "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Re: fan question??? by "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Re: OK don't laugh by "Michael Howell" <fishgod@iglou.com> Disconnecting A TVS Switch? by "by way of Geoff Martin, <Geoff@firstgenfirebird.org>" <Delmar Re: Engine miss battle by "larry diede" <ldiede@bangkok.com> engine miss by "Chris Porter" <fxstsb@pop.sttl.uswest.net> Re: fan pulley diameter?\ by "Bob Cisneros" <Bob.Cisneros@EBay.Sun.COM> Re: fan question??? by "Bob Cisneros" <Bob.Cisneros@EBay.Sun.COM> Re: '69 Camaro Remote mirror and scuff plates by <JGeigel@aol.com> RE: Engine miss battle by "Tim Marcinek" <marcts@ga.prestige.net> Pertonix ignition by "R & P" <Ronsoy@bellsouth.net> Engine miss - more info. by "AL ROJAS" <amr@appsig.com> Re: Will a 455 fit by "Bob Trimpe" <trimpe@fuse.net>
(back) Subject: Re: OK don't laugh From: "Bob Cisneros" <Bob.Cisneros@EBay.Sun.COM> Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 11:41:24 -0800 (PST) Teresa writes: >Just go my Ames catalog in the mail and I am jacked - going to bring my >baby back from her deep sleep. I go to bed at night dreaming of cruzing >in the old days. I thought of the old Johnny Cash song "One piece at a >time" when thumbing through the catalog. Looking forward to summer hours >to start the long slow process and hoping you guys won't mind me sharing >what step I am on and asking for your input. The engine in my 68 has >been lightly stripped by a druggie family member i.e. radiator hoses, >battery cables, would you believe the stupid oil cap. Now I have to pull >the valve covers to see what the heck got in there with rats and >squirrels stashing their acorns in the engine well. That's my major >first step is cleaning the engine well, checking wires, etc. Then I >need some input on starting an engine that hasn't turned over in a few >years. I guess another question is going to be the fuel tank - any >chance of crud in there and what do you do about that? Welcome to the group, and don't hesitate to tell us about the progress or issues in the restoration of your car. We really dig reading each other's stories. Regarding the the crud build up. If you find a great deal of stuff under the valve covers, consider dumping some kerosene across the the valve train, and open the oilpan drain plug. This will flush most of the debris out of the upper engine area, and out the pan. Keep flushing until the stuff coming out the pan is clean. Now you'll need to refill the crankcase and pour some oil on the valvetrain as well. Mike Howell writes about turning the engine by hand, and this is good. But squirt some oil in each spark plug hole first in order to get some lube on the cylinder walls to avoid scoring, as well as to free up the rings. Once you feel ready to start the car up, pull the distributor, marking the rotor's position, and prime the oiling system using either a purchased oilpump priming tool or make one from an old distributor, and use a heavy duty drill to drive the primer. This will pump oil throughout the engine's passages and bearings. You want to have full oil pressure for at least 15 minutes to get the oil everywhere needed. The other stuff Mike wrote about the fuel system is right on and it will get you ready to run. Most of the missing items can still be bought at your local auto parts store, and won't set you back too far cash-wise. Keep us updated, and bring on the questions should any arise! Many of us have been faced with reviving a car from a similar state. -Bob Cisneros San Jose, CA 1968 Convertible bob.cisneros@Ebay.Sun.COM
(back) Subject: Re : Part Identification: Backseat Side Panel (Lower) From: "Dale J. Barkla" <systech@tig.com.au> Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 07:15:52 +1100 Hi Bill, Not quite sure on this one but will have a go. Is this the "Convertible Rear Armrest Panel" ? In my Year One catalog (#R4299) it's = on page 46 and the codes are AZ507 (LH) and AZ506 (RH). It's a stamped steel = repro. Hope this is it.....cheers, Dale '68 Conv. > I have a 1968 convertible. I am trying to identify a part and can't = seem to find it listed in any of the catalogs. Can anyone tell me what the proper name is of the lower > >side panel in the backseat area? Even better, does anyone know if this part (for both the right and left sides) is in any of the major catalogs (Ames, Year One, Classic > > Industries, etc.)? > Thanks for the help. > Bill Hewitt > 68 350 HO Convertible
(back) Subject: Re: Ignition lock. From: "Jeff Davis" <Jeff_Davis19@excite.com> Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 12:20:48 -0800 (PST) Funny thing...my ignition key unlocks the doors. The round key unlocks = the trunk and glove box. Perhaps GM was ealrier in the "valet key" concept. On Wed, 17 Jan 2001 15:15:33 -0800, First Generation Firebird-L wrote: > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > It cost me $15 to have my trunk(which came with no key) redone to > use my door keys. I think I will have my truck and bird set up to use the > same one key someday. > Rowan *68 > > >From: "John Wern" <jwern@gw.total-web.net> > >......................................................................... > >Wanna hear a stupid move? I was readingg in m hadny dandy maintenance > >manual about how to remove the ignition switch if you dont have a key. = I > >now this was discussed a year or so ago but I didnt keep any of it because > >- > >well never mind that was another stupid move So I took a bit and I drilled. > >I still couldnt pull it out. I drillled a liitle more - still no = luck. So > >I pulled out the reserves and called apon the DREMEL. To much - I = got it > >out but doing so I screwed up the small piece that you punch with a paper > >clip in order to remove or replace the switch. I can insert the = switch but > >I cant turn clockwise 20 degrees. Anyone have any ideas? _______________________________________________________ Send a cool gift with your E-Card http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
(back) Subject: Re: Interior Paint Color From: "Jeff Davis" <Jeff_Davis19@excite.com> Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 12:24:26 -0800 (PST) Now THAT was helpful. Thanks, Kane. Jeff Davis '68 350 convertible On Thu, 18 Jan 2001 03:17:37 GMT, First Generation Firebird-L wrote: > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > I found some old paint codes in a 67 Firebird part book. For black interior it > lists Black Dupont 88, Ditzler 9248, Mason 400-A-946 all with 60% = gloss. For > the upper dash it says Velvet Black Dupont 4428-L, Ditzler 9317, Mason 400-A- > 946 all with 0% gloss (cut down on windshield glare). A parts store = could > probably still mix it or cross the codes. > > Hope this helps > > Kane _______________________________________________________ Send a cool gift with your E-Card http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
(back) Subject: Re: 455 engine pieces recommendations From: <KSOS1@aol.com> Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 15:27:36 EST Your saginaw tranny should hold up to the power of the 455, if not try to = get an muncie m21 or m22 tranny. The m21 is a close ratio tranny the m22 is = what a lot of people call the "rock crusher" because of the power it can withstand. I have a borg warner t-10 in my car with a 2.88 first gear and = it is holding up fine. What I meant by a regular distributor is you want = have to get a bronze gear installed on your distributor, you can use your HEI. = I would personally recommend a Mallory unilite distributor with an MSD 6a = box. As for the intake, if you are going to run the edelbrock heads with the = 87cc chambers your compression ratio should be around 9.5 to 1, which is good = for pump gas. The intake I would run is the performer rpm, even though it is rated for 1500- 6500 rpm and you probably wont rev the motor past 5500, = the rpm flows more cfm than the regular performer, which will make more hosepower. If you are going to run 1.6 rockers, check your piston to = valve clearance with the cam you choose. I would also recommend going with = forged pistons instead of the cast pistons. A good person to talk to or have do = the work for you is Bruce Fulper from Rock-N-Roll engineering in california. He's the man when it comes to pontiac 455's.
(back) Subject: Re: 455 engine pieces recommendations From: <KSOS1@aol.com> Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 15:31:06 EST Dont use the ram 3 cam, it is outdated. With the technology available = today you can make more horsepower from the new cams.
(back) Subject: Re: 455 engine pieces recommendations From: <KSOS1@aol.com> Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 15:31:54 EST Contact Bruce Fulper
(back) Subject: Re: Engine miss battle From: "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 14:46:52 -0600 Al, Need more info. Does it miss under load? or only at idle Is the miss there all times or occurs after its been idling for a minute = or so? Hot or cold. A quick thing to do is reduce the gap on your plugs make them all 0.0.30 = and see if it improves. If your initial timing is to far advanced the motor will miss. check you = mechanical advance to see if it operates freely. If the idle mixture is too lean it will miss too Some times you need to just take it out an do a WOT and see it does in the = upper rpm range. Frank >>> amr@appsig.com 01/18/01 12:54PM >>> First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List .......................................................................... I've been fighting an engine miss problem now for several months. It seems to be getting worse. I hate taking it to a mechanic for diagnostics. Maybe someone can make a suggestion on what to look for next. It's a random miss. It almost sounds like it's carburetor related. I've replaced the following: Plugs, point, cap, rotor, fuel filter, (wires are about 7 years old with about 10K miles), coil (MSD Blaster w resistor). Dwell is 30 degrees, timing is set, manifold vacuum is about 18 - 19 in and steady. I've pinched off all the vacuum lines and there was no change in the vacuum reading or RPM. I've also tried spraying carb cleaner around the carb and intake. No changes in RPM were detected. What about the timing chain? I was told I should measure the slack by moving the crank to TDC, then rotate in the opposite direction until the distributor moves, the read the timing mark where at the point the distributor moved. If it was greater than 2 degrees, the chain and gear should be replaced. Is this correct? I'm wondering about the carb. It's an Edelbrock 600 CFM. What should I look for? I'm thinking about getting the Pertonix ignition, but don't want to add it until I solve this miss problem. Thanks in advance for the help. Al
(back) Subject: Re: fan question??? From: "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 14:51:01 -0600 Brad, Pay the 65 dollars for the HD fan clutch and use your stock fan. I should = have a 19.5 inch. Frank >>> BHA676@aol.com 01/18/01 01:10PM >>> First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List .......................................................................... Is there a big difference between a no name flew fan off the shelf of a autoparts store and some of the name brand ones out there? I have a flex = on mine after the original fan and clutch didnt work well. Should i upgrade mine to a name brand the more cfm the better! (any suggestions?where to = buy and price?)) or just go to electric?( what worked for anyone with similar problem cooling a 400 with 4 core? I neec help! brad 67 400 convert ---------
(back) Subject: Re: OK don't laugh From: "Michael Howell" <fishgod@iglou.com> Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 16:08:03 -0500 Thanks for completing the story here Bob! It's hard to think of = everything off the top of your head sometimes. I believe that Marvel Mystery Oil is mostly Kerosene, so you could use that to clean like Bob suggests, or you could just get kerosene instead.. that's probably the most active ingredient in the "mystery oil" anyway. Either way, be sure to do as he suggested = and add a bit of oil to the cylinders before hand-turning, and prime it really = good before starting. Let us know how it goes. I may be wierd but I think it's fun = to try to get a motor to run after it's been sitting around. It can be a real = challenge, but it's also really rewarding when it comes to life. Mike '68 350 Coupe
(back) Subject: Disconnecting A TVS Switch? From: "by way of Geoff Martin, <Geoff@firstgenfirebird.org>" <DelmarvaDJ@aol.com> Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 14:50:22 -0500 Geoff PLEASE FORWARD TO LIST (I have AOL 6.0) Ladies and Gents, I stumbled upon a survivor 68 350 Coupe that I intend to purchase for my son. Because I'm the only list member with a 'Nightshade Green' car I assumed that this a rare color - - I was amazed that the car I found is the same color (recently repainted), also with Parchment interior. More about that at a different time. When we test drove the car it ran great, and when I looked under the hood I noticed that the TVS switch was disconnected. Should I, can I, how do I, disconnect the switch on my 68 convertible? BTW, my idle stop solenoid switch has been previously removed. Thanks Steve Lind 68 350 Conv
(back) Subject: Re: Engine miss battle From: "larry diede" <ldiede@bangkok.com> Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 14:31:21 -0700 Al, I had a similar miss on a Ford 351 with the Edelbrock 600 carb. It drove = me crazy for 6 months. I changed out just about everything, rejetted the = carb, etc and even went with the Pertronix. Still could not get rid of = it. Finally changed out the 1 year old 8mm Mallory plug wires and it was = gone. Always the last thing you fix. Must have been some high resistance or break down. Good luck Larry Diede Denver, CO Where part of your salary is the scenery ----------------------------------------------- Thailand's BEST Free Email at Bangkok.com - http://mail.bangkok.com
(back) Subject: engine miss From: "Chris Porter" <fxstsb@pop.sttl.uswest.net> Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 13:33:22 -0800 >I've been fighting an engine miss problem now for several months. It >seems to be getting worse. I hate taking it to a mechanic for >diagnostics. Maybe someone can make a suggestion on what to look for >next. How many miles on that engine ? 7 years is too old in my opinion, for those wires. Age is hard on them. What RPM's does the miss occur ? Chris `68 350 H.O. Drop-top
(back) Subject: Re: fan pulley diameter?\ From: "Bob Cisneros" <Bob.Cisneros@EBay.Sun.COM> Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 13:42:14 -0800 (PST) Brad writes: >whats the proper diameter? Keep in mind that there are 8 different belt and pulley configurations for a 1967 V8 car! I'm assuming you're asking about the car noted in your tag line. The 1968 and 1969 V8 cars have only 4 possible configurations. 1967 V8 Pulley and Belt Applications (assume each config. has an alternator) 1. Standard car (no accessories) p/n 544595 8 inch 2. Power steering only p/n 9786819 8 inch (two groove) 3. Air conditioning only p/n 9786909 7 1/8 inches (two grooves) 4. Air conditioning and power steering p/n 9786909 7 1/8 inches (two grooves) 5. Air injection (A.I.R.) only p/n 9786819 8 inch (two groove) 6. Air injection and power steering p/n 9786819 8 inch (two groove) 7. Air injection and air conditioning p/n 9788886 5 11/16 inch (two groove) 8. Air conditioning, power steering, and air injection p/n 9788886 5 11/16 inch (two groove) -Bob Cisneros San Jose, CA 1968 Convertible bob.cisneros@Ebay.Sun.COM
(back) Subject: Re: fan question??? From: "Bob Cisneros" <Bob.Cisneros@EBay.Sun.COM> Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 14:21:17 -0800 (PST) Brad writes: >Is there a big difference between a no name flew fan off the shelf of a >autoparts store and some of the name brand ones out there? Yup. Few of those generic flex fans can take high RPM use without coming apart. That means unfriendly shrapnel aimed at your radiator, hoses, body parts, ect. If you stay with a flex fan, get a brand name high performance piece. >I have a flex on >mine after the original fan and clutch didnt work well. Years ago, it was assumed by many performance types that the factory fan clutch was inefficient and robbed power. But we were wrong on both counts. It's really hard to beat a good thermal clutch along with a 7 blade fan. >or just go to electric?( what worked for anyone with similar >problem cooling a 400 with 4 core? I neec help! Geeze, welcome to the club. Many of us are still struggling with the overheating issue. I'm convinced of the following: -Overheating is often related to a carburetor ajusted/jetted too lean or even too rich on either the primary or secondary side. -initial and overall timing needs to be correctly adjusted. Non-functional vacuum advance, retarded timing, skipped or slack timing chain also contribute. -Air flow. Make sure there isn't something in the way preventing maximum air getting to and through your radiator. Crud in the radiator fins decrease it's efficiency, as well as crud in the inside. Have a radiator shop flush it thoroughly if it hasn't been serviced in more than 2 years, or you see stuff floating in the side tank. 400s and A/C equipped cars have extra panels that divert air flow to the radiator. Make sure none are missing or have big gaps. The factory also used a rubber like seal kit that blocked off all the gaps around the radiator support and inner fender area to seal off any air leakage. Performance Years and AMES sell this kit. -Water pumps. Much has been said about the impeller design. Cheap water pumps often don't do a good job of flowing the water adaquately. Get a good quality pump with a proper impeller. -Thermostat. I've encountered brand new thermostats that are as much as 20 degrees off, or don't open or shut. My understanding is that the GM stat is the best buy, or a good quality HP unit like a Robert Shaw or Mr. Gasket. Running no thermostat isn't a permanent fix. Any engine must reach proper running temperatures, so it needs to be within 190 to 210 degrees. Prolonged running at less than 180 risks cylinder wall wash and premature wear. It is possible to be too cool. -Electric Fans. I run a dual fan w/shroud, and it did make a difference. But these can also be band aids covering up a more basic problem. My car still runs hot, so I don't have all the answers. But I think I'm on the track of solving it with a new carburetor on the way. This will at least rule out some of the possibilities. My feeling is that it's better to sort out the above basic issue first before going to aluminum radiators, electric fans and/or pumps. -Bob Cisneros San Jose, CA 1968 Convertible bob.cisneros@Ebay.Sun.COM
(back) Subject: Re: '69 Camaro Remote mirror and scuff plates From: <JGeigel@aol.com> Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 17:32:27 EST It's not quite correct for a 68, but it's close. The mount is a little = different (not as pointed). It also has a screw in the base. Could = probably be made to work. Joe Geigel
(back) Subject: RE: Engine miss battle From: "Tim Marcinek" <marcts@ga.prestige.net> Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 17:53:57 -0500 Change the wires. My friend just had the same problem, changed = everything, wires last. Wires were a few months old.
(back) Subject: Pertonix ignition From: "R & P" <Ronsoy@bellsouth.net> Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 18:03:34 -0500 Just put in the Pertonix ignition, And let me tell you this GO BABY GO! I love it. Best ever in up grades! Ron
(back) Subject: Engine miss - more info. From: "AL ROJAS" <amr@appsig.com> Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 15:57:51 -0800 Thanks guys for you're support. Ok, you asked for more info. so here it goes. Don't laugh too loud at me! The miss appears to be random but quite frequent, as much as once every 1/10th of second. The miss appears to get worse as the engine warms up. On a cold start I'm not sure it's even there. Under heavy acceleration while cold, I can't detect anything. As it warms up, it becomes more noticeable, both at idle and load. The engine begins to idle very rough when I've been sitting in bumper to bumper traffic for extended periods (+10 minutes), to the point where it's going to stall, but it hasn't stalled yet. Once I start moving, the idling smoothes out some. I replaced the stock coil with the MSD coil because I could see my dwell meter jump around a bit. After replacing with the MSD, the jumping stopped. I thought I had solved the miss problem. Here's a dumb question. Does it matter that the resistor that came with the MSD is mounted on the intake manifold? I thought about mounting it to the firewall but didn't want to add another hole. There were no recommendations in the instructions. I thought about changing the sparc plug wires. I have AC/Delco 7 mm wires on there now. Since I switched to the MSD coil, do I need to increase the wire size to 8 mm, or should I buy another set of AC/Delco 7 mm? What about after after adding the Pertonix ignition? I switched from a 2 bbl carb single exhaust, to a 4 bbl dual exhaust. Do I need to change the heat range of my spark plugs (AC 45 in there now I think). Checking the plugs, I've noticed they are not the golden brown color, but more on the white side. I guess it's too lean. I've never opened up an Edlebrock before, so I can't say that I've re-jeted the thing. I bought it used, slapped it in, and it worked fine as is, so I didn't chjange anything. Any tips would be helpful. Something else that may be related. I discovered my vacuum advance wasn't was working, so I replaced the vacuum motor on the distributor. The miss seemed to get worse shortly after I did that (Initially, I didn't even know I had a miss). I doubt it's related to the miss. One last thing, I started messing with the electric choke. The engine doesn't like any choke which I thought was strange. I have it set wide open for now (no choke). Any ideas? Thanks Al
(back) Subject: Re: Will a 455 fit From: "Bob Trimpe" <trimpe@fuse.net> Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 20:32:04 -0500 I just happen to have mine out for painting. I put it on the bathroom = scale (don't laugh...and don't tell my wife). 40 lb. (Of course, my wife insists the scale reads 20 lb heavy, so...would = you believe 20 lb....?) ;0) Bob Trimpe PStonebrak@aol.com wrote: > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > HOW MUCH DOES THE A/C COMPRESSOR WEIGH ??? >