First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List
 
core support braces
  by "Chris Porter" <fxstsb@pop.sttl.uswest.net>
RE carpet reality check
  by "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net>
Re: way off firebird topic but need help
  by "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net>
Re: Steering Column Wiring Harness (CORRECTED)
  by "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net>
Re: intake and carb question
  by "Just Rod" <pjozif@hotmail.com>
Re: way off firebird topic but need help
  by "matt schmid" <schmidmj@hotmail.com>
Re: way off firebird topic but need help
  by "matt schmid" <schmidmj@hotmail.com>
Re: 67 Subframe
  by "Daniel" <poncho40@sga.quik.com>
RE: Windshield wiper motor/linkage
  by "Mark Wurtzel" <mwurtzel@flash.net>
RE: moment of silence - a question
  by "Mace" <macef@optonline.net>
Re: RE carpet reality check
  by "Jeff Davis" <Jeff_Davis19@excite.com>
Hood Tach
  by "Mace" <macef@optonline.net>
Distributor Question?
  by <Birdm58293@aol.com>
Re: Windshield wiper motor/linkage
  by "John Wern" <jwern@charter.net>
Re: way off firebird topic but need help
  by "Jeff Davis" <Jeff_Davis19@excite.com>
Re: Steering Column Wiring Harness (CORRECTED)
  by "ROY D LUMSDEN" <rlumsden@tampabay.rr.com>
Re: Steering Column Wiring Harness (CORRECTED)
  by "ROY D LUMSDEN" <rlumsden@tampabay.rr.com>
Re: Virus warning: SERIOUSLY!
  by "R & P" <Ronsoy@bellsouth.net>
Re: Virus warning: SERIOUSLY!
  by "Rich Durham" <bull@ccomm.com>
 

(back) Subject: core support braces From: "Chris Porter" <fxstsb@pop.sttl.uswest.net> Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 13:47:16 -0800   Anybody have the right and left core / fender support braces for sale ? Thanks.     Chris `68 350 H.O. Drop-top      
(back) Subject: RE carpet reality check From: "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 16:49:15 -0500   Tony says>   then fold the flap back over the bolt. Looks better than factory.   Thats funny all the factory installed carpet I've pulled out had flaps over the rear of front seat brackets. Another tip is not to cut the slots at all but use a scratch awl to locate center of holes then make a small incision just where the bolts go.Another tricky one is the boot area around a manual trans. Be sure and cut just enough for the shifter to work ok and leave the rest.Its very easy to cut too large a hole here. It wont hurt to have a little extra around the shifter hole. Does anyone have the 2 piece front carpet (right and left side) in their car? Seemed to have thrown away every original set and need a pattern. Gary      
(back) Subject: Re: way off firebird topic but need help From: "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 16:54:16 -0500     Subject: Re: way off firebird topic but need help From: "Niklas Ridell" <vcc2.nridell@memo.volvo.se> Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 12:42:00 +0100   If it's really bad you can try welding a long piece of iron to the plug. The welding will heat up the bolt so good that it will come loose easy and you can use the iron bar as a handle.     /Niklas       Niklas I wouldnt suggest welding on an installed transmission. Gear oil will burn quite fiercely . Also that much heat may damage seals gaskets plastic parts,etc. Its also a tricky deal welding cast iron which is most likely what the plug is made of. Gary      
(back) Subject: Re: Steering Column Wiring Harness (CORRECTED) From: "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 17:08:22 -0500     Subject: Re: Steering Column Wiring Harness (CORRECTED) From: "ROY D LUMSDEN" <rlumsden@tampabay.rr.com> Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 12:01:00 -0500   Come one guys. With all the experience we have here, NO ONE has ever = figured what each wire in the 67/68 steering column does?     WHY???   Roy Ive got it written down somewhere. May find it in awhile,but got to = ask why? I do have the colors in order of the half moon shaped connector and after = many years of searching found the correct unisex wiring terminals that are used =   in the connector. I did find a guy that wanted $1 apiece for them...LMK if you need just the =   sequence. Otherwise I ll have to dig. Gary      
(back) Subject: Re: intake and carb question From: "Just Rod" <pjozif@hotmail.com> Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 22:20:08 -0000     Hey Tony. You can spend spend alot of money on an aluminum intake, and a perf. squarebore carb- But I chose to use a stock 4bbl cast intake, since they flow very well, and i have a custom rebuilt Quadrajet, with beefed up secondaries. All in all my car runs great, and goes very well. I saved = alot of money going this way, which left me almost enough money for headers, or = a cam. Thats my angle. Rod   >Ive got a 69 with 350 2 barrel carb. Wanting to go to 4 barrel. Any >advise on what intake and carb to go with would be appriciated   >Tony   _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.      
(back) Subject: Re: way off firebird topic but need help From: "matt schmid" <schmidmj@hotmail.com> Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 22:42:45   The whole problem with this dang plug is that companies want to install = iron bolts, plugs, screws, into aluminum housing. Knowing that after a good amount of time the corrosion that is going to occur is going to make the bolts and whatnot seize up. I don't know if they put any kind of = anti-seize in or not but I seriously doubt it.   I was the originator of this question and BTW, you're right, and don't = worry I wasn't going to weld anywhere near my transmission with fluid still in there. Probably even if there wasn't fluid in there, because the heat = would cause all kinds of warping that we don't want in a transmission. I've actually been driving with it because I still had a decent amount of fluid =   left in it, and since it's just for lube I thought I'd be alright. Haven't =   had the time to go in and take another shot at the plug. I'll most likely try the vice grips and a cheater bar one more time, and if that doesn't work, I'll try the easy out, but not the cheap kind. Just thought I'd keep =   everyone updated. Matt     >From: Gary Patrick <Gary@tcworks.net> >Reply-To: "First Generation Firebird-L" = <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> >To: firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com >Subject: Re: way off firebird topic but need help >Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 16:54:16 -0500 > >First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List >......................................................................... > >Subject: Re: way off firebird topic but need help >From: "Niklas Ridell" <vcc2.nridell@memo.volvo.se> >Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 12:42:00 +0100 > >If it's really bad you can try welding a long piece of iron to the plug. >The welding will heat up the bolt so good that it will come loose easy >and you can use the iron bar as a handle. > > >/Niklas > > > >Niklas I wouldnt suggest welding on an installed transmission. >Gear oil will burn quite fiercely . Also that much heat may damage seals >gaskets plastic parts,etc. Its also a tricky deal welding cast iron >which is most likely what the plug is made of. >Gary >   _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com      
(back) Subject: Re: way off firebird topic but need help From: "matt schmid" <schmidmj@hotmail.com> Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 22:43:38   The whole problem with this dang plug is that companies want to install = iron bolts, plugs, screws, into aluminum housing. Knowing that after a good amount of time the corrosion that is going to occur is going to make the bolts and whatnot seize up. I don't know if they put any kind of = anti-seize in or not but I seriously doubt it.   I was the originator of this question and BTW, you're right, and don't = worry I wasn't going to weld anywhere near my transmission with fluid still in there. Probably even if there wasn't fluid in there, because the heat = would cause all kinds of warping that we don't want in a transmission. I've actually been driving with it because I still had a decent amount of fluid =   left in it, and since it's just for lube I thought I'd be alright. Haven't =   had the time to go in and take another shot at the plug. I'll most likely try the vice grips and a cheater bar one more time, and if that doesn't work, I'll try the easy out, but not the cheap kind. Just thought I'd keep =   everyone updated. Matt     >From: Gary Patrick <Gary@tcworks.net> >Reply-To: "First Generation Firebird-L" = <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> >To: firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com >Subject: Re: way off firebird topic but need help >Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 16:54:16 -0500 > >First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List >......................................................................... > >Subject: Re: way off firebird topic but need help >From: "Niklas Ridell" <vcc2.nridell@memo.volvo.se> >Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 12:42:00 +0100 > >If it's really bad you can try welding a long piece of iron to the plug. >The welding will heat up the bolt so good that it will come loose easy >and you can use the iron bar as a handle. > > >/Niklas > > > >Niklas I wouldnt suggest welding on an installed transmission. >Gear oil will burn quite fiercely . Also that much heat may damage seals >gaskets plastic parts,etc. Its also a tricky deal welding cast iron >which is most likely what the plug is made of. >Gary >   _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com      
(back) Subject: Re: 67 Subframe From: "Daniel" <poncho40@sga.quik.com> Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 18:41:48 -0500   GLENN now you only have to be wrong about a million more times to catch up with me hahahahaha have a good one Daniel Ray    
(back) Subject: RE: Windshield wiper motor/linkage From: "Mark Wurtzel" <mwurtzel@flash.net> Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 15:34:02 -0800   Bob wrote:   > Is it possible you got the wires reversed to the motor? I haven't = thought > that all the way through, but it would make the motor run backwards. The > fact that the first motion the wiper makes is down and to the left > --counterclockwise --(rather than clockwise) tells me the motor is = running > backwards.   Thanks for the suggestion, it does sound logical but the 2 pin connector = to the motor is "directional". That is, it has a little tab so you can only install it one way. Now I could pull the wires out and swap them but this sure seems rather bizarre as it did work before removing it!!   I am very curious as to how the linkage between the motor and the shafts work as the motor rotates continuously (not just back and forth like the wipers). The shaft coming out of the back of the motor bolts onto about a 4" arm that goes back under the cowl to some more linkage. So somehow the linkage is set up to make the wipers go back and forth as opposed to = around and around like the motor! I can't see enough of it through the cowl = vents nor is the manual very detailed so I really can't imagine just how it = would work.   Unless someone has a better idea, I guess I'll try taking the connector apart and switching the leads. It sure seems like that might work, though I'd really like to find out what in the world caused it!   I'll keep you posted!   Mark      
(back) Subject: RE: moment of silence - a question From: "Mace" <macef@optonline.net> Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 18:38:46 -0500   I think if the engineers of nascar safety could design a spring rebound device inside the walls running lengthwise somehow, the impact would be softened and the car would actually propell foward and then in a fraction = of a second slow the car. Kind of like a shock absorber. This could actually act as a cusion just like a shock works and then reform to its original state. Similar to a Saturn's body structure. Mace 69 350 Drop-Top   > >   I have followed this discussion in the media about soft walls. It sounds good in theory, but can it actually work? I can't imagine that the technology exists to make soft walls that will rebound back to shape after impact. I would imagine instead that such walls would have to have a "crush zone" similar to what they have at off-ramps. Once those are hit, they have to be replaced. Would NASCAR drivers and fans tolerate a red-flag of an hour or more to replace crushed wall sections? I know that on drag strips, there is a great tension between the need to clear the track after a crash, and the short attention spans = of spectators.   Just a thought...            
(back) Subject: Re: RE carpet reality check From: "Jeff Davis" <Jeff_Davis19@excite.com> Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 15:39:42 -0800 (PST)   That's what's in mine -- the two-piece front carpet. I'm tempted to = replace it, too, when I do the interior. All in due time. ho-hum.     On Mon, 26 Feb 2001 16:49:15 -0500, First Generation Firebird-L wrote:   > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > Does anyone have the 2 piece front carpet (right and left side) > in their car? Seemed to have thrown away every original > set and need a pattern. Gary           _______________________________________________________ Send a cool gift with your E-Card http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/        
(back) Subject: Hood Tach From: "Mace" <macef@optonline.net> Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 18:48:04 -0500   Dear list, Does anyone have any experience with hooking up a Hood Tach while = using a MSD 6AL box with a External MSD Blaster II Coil. I also have a pro = billet MSD Distributor. I have purchased a MSD Tach Converter that they said = would fix the problem but no luck. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Mace 69 350 Drop-Top      
(back) Subject: Distributor Question? From: <Birdm58293@aol.com> Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 19:05:06 EST   Hello all, I have a distributor with the following tag on it: 1111090 DELCO REMY 6 E-9 Can anyone help out decoding it. Would this be a good one for replacing = the guts with one of those Mallory Electronic Distributor Conversion kits (so = it will look original) found in JEG'S Mag. Thanks for all the great info this =   far. TOM    
(back) Subject: Re: Windshield wiper motor/linkage From: "John Wern" <jwern@charter.net> Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 19:32:38 -0500   Mark - I figured out what you did wrong. Take off your wipers then hook = up the little 4" bracket into the shaft of the motor. Then turn it on (with the wipers off the car) you see I thought Bob was on to something but I looked at my connector and yes you are right you really cant put them in backwards. So I went ahead and took my cowl off and turned on my wipers. the shaft comming out of the back of the motor does go round and round. = Just like a watch. So- trust me on this. If you hook up the little 4" piece that is hooked to a longer arm that goes up to the center of the car Your wipers will go back and forth. BUT you have to stop your motor turning = right before the wiper connectors are getting ready to go in the up position and then put your wipers on at that point. . So in ohter words you need to = put the wipers on the car after you reinstall the motor. and set it in the = down position. Because the motor has no idea what is down or up. It's not = like new cars. They stop in what ever position you kill the power with the switch. They dont have an auotmatic return. Get it? Try that it will work. Dont switch the wires. hook it up the only way it will. and turn them on without the wipers on the car. After that you will see what I'm talking about...John. -----Original Message----- From: Mark Wurtzel <mwurtzel@flash.net> To: First Generation Firebird-L <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> Date: Monday, February 26, 2001 6:38 PM Subject: RE: Windshield wiper motor/linkage     >First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List >......................................................................... >Bob wrote: > >> Is it possible you got the wires reversed to the motor? I haven't = thought >> that all the way through, but it would make the motor run backwards. = The >> fact that the first motion the wiper makes is down and to the left >> --counterclockwise --(rather than clockwise) tells me the motor is running >> backwards. > >Thanks for the suggestion, it does sound logical but the 2 pin connector = to >the motor is "directional". That is, it has a little tab so you can only >install it one way. Now I could pull the wires out and swap them but = this >sure seems rather bizarre as it did work before removing it!! > >I am very curious as to how the linkage between the motor and the shafts >work as the motor rotates continuously (not just back and forth like the >wipers). The shaft coming out of the back of the motor bolts onto about = a >4" arm that goes back under the cowl to some more linkage. So somehow = the >linkage is set up to make the wipers go back and forth as opposed to = around >and around like the motor! I can't see enough of it through the cowl = vents >nor is the manual very detailed so I really can't imagine just how it = would >work. > >Unless someone has a better idea, I guess I'll try taking the connector >apart and switching the leads. It sure seems like that might work, = though >I'd really like to find out what in the world caused it! > >I'll keep you posted! > >Mark        
(back) Subject: Re: way off firebird topic but need help From: "Jeff Davis" <Jeff_Davis19@excite.com> Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 16:24:56 -0800 (PST)     It may have been said already (haven't read all the replies) but you might want to contact a Toyota dealer's service department to ask if it's a reverse thread bolt. Secondly, my brother-in-law suggested to me on = another occasion to ratchet a seized bolt as though you were trying to tighten it. =   That didn't make much sense until I realized that it moved just a tad, = just enought to free it. Then revert back to the loosening ratchet. Can you = get to it with a torque ratchet? It's longer handle may give you better leverage.   Jeff Davis   On Sat, 24 Feb 2001 19:03:06 , First Generation Firebird-L wrote:   > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > I replaced my right front axle for my 1989 Toyota Corolla GTS 5 speed. When > I pull the axle out of the transaxle some of the fluid drained out. So = I > needed to pull the filler plug and add some more gear oil. However, The =   > filler plug was seized up and we couldn't get it off. We tried PB, and that > didn't work, so we tried heating it up with a propane torch to try and > release some of the rust and hopefully expand the metal around the = plug. > That didn't work. In all our efforts and annoyance we ended up rounding the > plug pretty good. I was wondering if anyone had a good idea on what the hell > I can do to get this thing off? Obviously I'm going to have to buy a = new > plug when I get it out, but I really don't want to run my car too much with > some of the fluid missing. What do you guys do when you have a bolt or plug > that is seized up really bad?? > Matt Schmid           _______________________________________________________ Send a cool gift with your E-Card http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/        
(back) Subject: Re: Steering Column Wiring Harness (CORRECTED) From: "ROY D LUMSDEN" <rlumsden@tampabay.rr.com> Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 19:33:22 -0500   Frank,   Thanks for the link. I seem to remember seeing that page some time ago but either didn't save it or lost it along the way. It should help.   Roy ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> To: <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 2:14 PM Subject: Re: Steering Column Wiring Harness (CORRECTED)     > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > See WEB link > > Im pretty sure brown is the accessory power. > > http://www.locl.net/homes/sapple/68wir3.html > > Frank > > >>> rlumsden@tampabay.rr.com 02/26/01 11:01AM >>> > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > Come one guys. With all the experience we have here, NO ONE has ever figured > what each wire in the 67/68 steering column does? > > > >> First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > >> > = ......................................................................... > >> Has anyone figured out the wiring harness? I bought a wiring diagram but > > it > >> doesn't list what the wires do or where they go. I need to know what > each > >> wire is. The colors are as follows: > >> > >> Black .............................to Horn > >> Black w/ Blue stripe.........? > >> Dark Blue........................? > >> Brown.............................? > >> Purple...............................? > >> Black w/ Yellow stripe......? > >> Green...............................? > >> Black w/ White stripe........? > >> > >> Any help is appreciated, > >> Roy > >> > >> > > > > >      
(back) Subject: Re: Steering Column Wiring Harness (CORRECTED) From: "ROY D LUMSDEN" <rlumsden@tampabay.rr.com> Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 19:43:45 -0500   Gary,   If you have it written down somewhere, it would save me a great big = headache if you could shoot me a copy. As to WHY??... well, I trying to put a = T.P.I. 350, 700r4, and it's whole wiring harness into a ... ahem... 68 RS Camaro.   Now, before everyone jumps all over me, the T.P.I. and stuff is coming out of a totaled 89 GTA Firebird. Even though it is technically a SBC, it = served the arrowhead moniker very well. Now, with a twist of fate, it'll breath life again and motivate a bow-tie product (a little pay back... how many Firebirds have you seen with SBC power?).   The only electrical items I using from the 68 is the headlight switch, ignition switch, headlight dimmer switch, and steering column harness for turn signal switch, flashers switch, and horn. I've figures out everything but the steering column harness.   Thanks again for all the help, Roy ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> To: <firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 5:08 PM Subject: Re: Steering Column Wiring Harness (CORRECTED)     > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > > Subject: Re: Steering Column Wiring Harness (CORRECTED) > From: "ROY D LUMSDEN" <rlumsden@tampabay.rr.com> > Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 12:01:00 -0500 > > Come one guys. With all the experience we have here, NO ONE has ever figured > what each wire in the 67/68 steering column does? > > > WHY??? > > Roy Ive got it written down somewhere. May find it in awhile,but got to ask > why? > I do have the colors in order of the half moon shaped connector and = after many > years of searching found the correct unisex wiring terminals that are = used > in the > connector. > I did find a guy that wanted $1 apiece for them...LMK if you need just = the > sequence. > Otherwise I ll have to dig. Gary > > >      
(back) Subject: Re: Virus warning: SERIOUSLY! From: "R & P" <Ronsoy@bellsouth.net> Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 19:47:57 -0500   Yeah I must have received that mail a million times by now is real = annoying having to scan mail before you open it......Imagine if we had to do that everyday with real mail?   RonMan      
(back) Subject: Re: Virus warning: SERIOUSLY! From: "Rich Durham" <bull@ccomm.com> Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 19:54:32 -0500   Matt, Absolutely correct. it's a Hybris Worm virus and will attack your wsock32.dll file in windows. There's also another one out with the name of a female tennis star ( don't remember which one) and comes as a "name".jpg.vbs file.     At 03:11 AM 2/26/01 +0000, you wrote: >First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List >......................................................................... >I just got an email that was titled "Snow white and the seven dwarves - = the >REAL story" If you get this email, DO NOT open the attachment, it is a >virus. I have hotmail, it automatically scans attachments before opening = and >it said that it is a virus. So as amusing as the email may sound, do not >open the attachment, it IS a virus. >Matt >   Rich Durham Weatherly, Pa. bull@ccomm.com