First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List Re: front end rebuild advice and best way to drop 2 " check this out!! by <hugoba@apcom.com> Re: Fuel Addative by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Re: front end rebuild advice and best way to drop 2 " check this out!! by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Re: Water Pump Plates by "Andy" <fbird68@ix.netcom.com> Re: Rear 1/4 Armrest Ashtray by "Andy" <fbird68@ix.netcom.com>
(back) Subject: Re: front end rebuild advice and best way to drop 2 " check this out!! From: <hugoba@apcom.com> Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 20:45:31 -0700 (PDT) I used the PST polycarbon kit and I'm very happy with it. I used the = grease that they supply and I don't have any squeaks (that I can hear). As far as springs, I'vew used Eaton's in the rear but have not replaced my fronts. I think most on the list will agree that Eaton makes a great = product. Hugo > From Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com Tue Apr 3 19:54:19 2001 > From: BHA676@aol.com > Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 20:44:20 EDT > Subject: front end rebuild advice and best way to drop 2 " check this = out!! > To: Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com > MIME-Version: 1.0 > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > Ok Ive decided to replace the front end or actually you have no choice = when > the tires you bought only 2 months ago are showing wire already. I'm = going > with grahite impregrnated polyurethane and want to know about what kind = of > lubricant to use in the install to cut the chance of squeaking. Also = Ive > heard of people cutting grease channels or fittings into them and REALLY = need > to know how to do that. I dont want my car constantly squeaking. Im = probably > going to put a bigger front sway bar on also. I havent decided on a = company > yet but am open to suggestions. > > My front springs are original and need to be replaced. I would like = to > get a 2" drop spring kit. Anyone have any experience using this? I > considered drop spindles but they seem expensive. What are the pro and = cons > of both methods. Cost is a factor. I want to be as informed as = possible > before attempting this project so i dont run into many unforseen > difficulties. > > Thanks as always to all the members of this list who have helped me out = in > the past without their advice I would probably have given up on trying = many > other repairs myself. > > brad > 67 400 convert > > >
(back) Subject: Re: Fuel Addative From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 22:37:10 -0700 That stuff has a realy gnarly warning label. Looking back to my training as a smog tech...it makes sense. Like N20, but not as reactive. It also crossed my mind that this is why = my buddy runs his cars on 50% MEK (MethylEthylKeytone a paint prep chemical) when they don't pass smog. The extra oxygen in the fuel reacts with CO , and compensates for a rich mix, so the car tests good. Along the same lines, in areas withthe treadmill emission tests, you may = be able to reduce measured emissions by running tall tires, or a higher rear end, less revs per mile reducing grams polution/mile I'm guessing that toluene may eat rubber, and will evaporate out of the = tank a little faster than gas. In WW2 aircraft motors, they used water = injection to increase output... ....Rambling, I'm glad my Pontiac has a big tank. Rowan >From: "Keith Donmoyer" <kadonny@hotmail.com> >Dan, you really saw that big of a difference? I can't believe it is that >easy to get the octane levels up, maybe it is. Does anyone else have >opinions on the tolulene thing? > >Keith >68 H.O. > >Subject: Fuel additives >From: "Dan Lawrence" <danl@fdn.com> >Date: Sun, 01 Apr 2001 10:43:14 -0400 > >Several weeks ago I asked the group what to do about octane and what the >110 octane fuel was. After the aircraft fuel was explained it seemed to >be a last resort for me because of all the trouble obtaining, >transporting, etc. > >Curt left this link for a possible solution. > >http://www.wauknet.com/douthitt/pumpgas.htm > >I tried adding the 10% tolulene and couldn't believe the performance >improvement. Actually, I had about 8% added in. I got a slight ping >occasionally at full temp and when I should have down shifted. I got the >gallon of tolulene from Ace Hardware for $8.50. This seems much easier >to obtain and the results were fantastic. > >Thanks a million for the help. I would have never known about the info >on the web. > >Dan 68/coupe/428 _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: Re: front end rebuild advice and best way to drop 2 " check this out!! From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 23:26:34 -0700 Brad, Let some air out of your front tires(to increase friction), and have a helper steer back and forth while you inspect the steering linkages for looseness. Anything that is a hair loose will be much more noticeable = with the current 'bad' stuff replaced. It may ormay not be in your best = intrest to get the kit with all the tie rods and ball joints. none of the joints should do anything but swivel. I'd install new balljoints at this time if they are anything but fresh. PST.. I spoke to them, and the lube they send you is silicone grease. They recomended if I wanted more, go to a marine shop, and get some product(forgot the brand) there. I'd ask them to include 2 extra packets = of lube with your kit, and use it all. I use EP Chassis lube because it is what's in my greasegun. No squeakage yet...maybe 10K miles Ill try to find a pic of my Zerk setup for you. Sway Bars most are 2x stifer than stock, Herb adams =3D 4x stiffer My stock one feels weak... Drop I cut my springs 1/2 coil. Dropped the nose a little over an inch Cutting the spring increases the rate a bit, not too much. Maybe not the best method, but it is an excelent way to find out the best compromise between the nice rake and hitting the ground too often. I'd way rather cut my crumy old springs twice, then buy a nice set than = have to buy 3 sets. with 14' wheels, 185./70 tires, I hit the ground too much, = now running 225/60/15s, and it is just a tad low for my neighborhood. = With a 2" spring drop, you may have a problem with too positive camber, or not = be able to get as much caster as you would like. front and rear tires of identical diameter will help with the caster, but = I am at maximum shimming to get 2 1/4 degrees. Lowered spindles sometimes require a wheel change, and put the lower ball joint pretty close to the ground. They also seem to cost. Alignment could = be unafected, but that may vary between manufacturers. What is you tire wear patern? Planned usage of the car? Rowan >From: BHA676@aol.com >Ok Ive decided to replace the front end or actually you have no choice = when >the tires you bought only 2 months ago are showing wire already. I'm = going >with grahite impregrnated polyurethane and want to know about what kind = of >lubricant to use in the install to cut the chance of squeaking. Also Ive >heard of people cutting grease channels or fittings into them and REALLY >need >to know how to do that. I dont want my car constantly squeaking. Im >probably >going to put a bigger front sway bar on also. I havent decided on a >company >yet but am open to suggestions. > > My front springs are original and need to be replaced. I would like = >to >get a 2" drop spring kit. Anyone have any experience using this? I >considered drop spindles but they seem expensive. What are the pro and >cons >of both methods. Cost is a factor. I want to be as informed as possible >before attempting this project so i dont run into many unforseen >difficulties. > >Thanks as always to all the members of this list who have helped me out = in >the past without their advice I would probably have given up on trying = many >other repairs myself. > >brad >67 400 convert _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: Re: Water Pump Plates From: "Andy" <fbird68@ix.netcom.com> Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 23:30:31 -0700 So, based on Bob's note, my setup is OK. Mine has eight bolt holes, one = gasket between the pump and timing cover and two plates that fit loosely behind the pump. No tubes, no grommets. I don't remember there being large enough mating surfaces between the two = plates to hold them together with sealant, but I haven't had the pump off = in four years. The '68 service manual doesn't even mention the plates, so = it's of no help (unless I missed it). There was nothing holding the plates together or to the timing cover the first time I opened it up. Should = there be? Andy > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Subject: Re: Water Pump Plates > From: "Bob Cisneros" <Bob.Cisneros@Sun.COM> > Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 16:17:19 -0700 (PDT) > > Jason Rogers writes: > >I just went through this myself. If you have the "early" style pump (I > >believe it has 8 bolts: 67') you will have 2 plates but no connecting > >grommets. > > Pretty close. 1969 was when Pontiac switched to the 11 bolt style > timing cover/pump. 1968 and earlier used the 8 bolt, with 2 divider > plates, one gasket, and no tubes. > > >Just use monkey snot to glue it to the block with the gasket > >inbetween. The pump to timing case uses only 1 gasket. On the later = pump > >(I believe 11 bolts: 68' or 69+), you need to use the grommets that = straddle > >the timing cover to block and the gaskets go on either side of the = plates > >and get sandwiched between the timing cover and pump. The grommets = usually > >only come with the "cam replacement gasket set" and not in the "intake = set". > > The 1969 11 bolt design used only 1 divider plate, 2 gaskets, and > 2 rubber tubes or sleaves. See your service manual for the appropriate > year engine/car you have to see an illustration. > > -BoB San Jose, CA > 1968 convertible > > bob.cisneros@Sun.COM >
(back) Subject: Re: Rear 1/4 Armrest Ashtray From: "Andy" <fbird68@ix.netcom.com> Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 23:34:56 -0700 Jim, I should have looked more closely at the Ames catalog before I ordered. = Their photo shows that their lid is smooth. Guess I'll just polish the old ones. Thanks for all the replies. Andy > > Subject: Re: Rear 1/4 Armrest Ashtray > From: <Jimc2002@aol.com> > Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 22:59:30 EDT > > Andy, > > One more thing - I checked the Year One catalog. Their ashtray has a = note, > " Note: 1967-68 models were equipped with rear ashtrays with ribbed = covers. > The new part will fit correctly but does not have the ridges on the = covers." > > Jim > 68 400HO Convert