First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List
 
Re: Ram Air 101
  by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com>
Re: Adhesives/Caulking
  by "Geoff Martin" <Geoff@firstgenfirebird.org>
Re: updated photos
  by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com>
Re: 2 Questions. Cooling problem & Tach Hook-up to HEI
  by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com>
Fuel slosh/ Jason Maynard
  by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com>
Re: Admin Big Server Crash
  by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com>
Overheating?
  by "Robert Shannon" <bshannon67@hotmail.com>
`68 console clock, repiar/parts
  by "Chris Porter" <fxstsb@qwest.net>
updated photos
  by "Keith Donmoyer" <kadonny@hotmail.com>
Re: Overheating?
  by <hugoba@apcom.com>
Re: Overheating?
  by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com>
Re: updated photos
  by <hugoba@apcom.com>
Re: Firebird-L Digest #1844
  by "Wayne Crist" <crist@flash.net>
Re: 2 Questions. Cooling problem & Tach Hook-up to HEI
  by "Joe Brown" <jb.pb@gte.net>
1969 Firebird power antenna
  by <E21pilot@aol.com>
Re: Firebird-L Digest #1844
  by <hugoba@apcom.com>
Re: Water Pump Plates
  by "Andy" <fbird68@ix.netcom.com>
 

(back) Subject: Re: Ram Air 101 From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 12:42:12 -0700   I've seen two Chevy setups for this .... one HO Camaro, vette too maybe, I think, is a regular on top of the = carb aircleaner with 2 wide flexducts .... the other is a EFI Camaro setupwith 2 5"x5" square filters hanging in =   front of the rad suport.   My MAF sensor(most forward part) sticks straight ahead a few inchespast =   the pulleys, straight shot into the throttle body (using stock 'Vette = duct). High beams could provide some real flow, but I don't think I can be without them on a daily driver, besides, I love seeing that big chrome bumper lit from behind at night in the rain. After a good 6 hours of websearching, I still have no quantatative info =   other than brand of kit and timeslips. Everyone seems to run more consistent ETs with cold inducton. Of the kits I saw, the Stealth Ram looks like a nice, aplicable design, =   and I think Ill try something along that line http://www.b-body.net/Technical/Driveline/Intake/StealthRam/ I do not, however see clear poycarbonate in my budget at this time. cute though. Rowan *68     >From: hugoba@apcom.com   >If you look in the back of most car wrenching magazines you will see and = ad >for an air cleaner with two snorkels and some ducting to do precisely = this, >no fabbing needed (unless you want to). > >Hugo > > > From: David_S_Smith@amat.com   > > The motorcycles use the high pressure area in the front to force = feeding >more > > air into the engine at high speeds. The greater the pressure, the = more >O2 the > > engine gets. Do the drag racers go faster in Denver or Houston? > > > > If I were going to do this to a 68 Firebird, I would remove the high >beams and > > then duct the air from that area to the air filter assembly with large =   >aluminium > > tubing (like maybe from a clothes dryer). > > > > I imagine that you would have to cut holes in the core support for the =   >tubing. > > You would also have to build a air filter assembly that accepts the 2 >large > > hoses. But then again, you could always remove the whole assembly >pretty easily > > also. > > > > Dave > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > Subject: > > From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> > > Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 23:50:31 -0700 > > > > Bikes...Great idea! I have new browsing enhancement as we got DSL > > service(after a year of bitter battling)today. Only problem is DSL >seems to > > disconnect if the phone is used or called. > > Sticking my hand out the window at 60, it feels like it would at least > > compensate for restrictive/bent ducting > > > > highway 17 is a 'special enforcement zone' > > Maybe midnight drags at Dolan road or 4Mile beach. > > > > "saltydog" <saltyd@home.com> wrote: > > Just out of curiosity on what others have to say, I believe we have > > discussed this before and actually you can get more air from the back = of >the > > hood near the windshield because of a low pressure in this area and = that > > right out on the front of the hood is a high pressure area. Does = anyone > > remember something about that? I definately wouldn't argue with the > > statement that it looks better out there on the front. hehehe. > > > > . That is why the Ram Air setup on the Trans Ams is much better than >the > > ram air hood on the SS. On the SS the air has to turn around and come =   >back > > toward the front of the car to enter the maf, whereas on the TA it = gets > > rammed right up the snout (argueably looks better also). > > > > Yes...Mine will be a nose breather from behind the grille. If I >get a > > 400 hood, the ram air ports will handily blow cool ir across the TPI > > runners(isnt that cool) > > > > Although it is called Ram Air, the factor is cold air induction. Under =   >hood > > air is hotter than outside of the hood. Pete > > > > This too will be in my favor > > And thanks Jason for the description /results of your TA. > > A friend of mine who has raced a few TPI 'Vettes tells me the mod that =   >made > > the biggest differene for him was the 'airfoil' between the bores of the > > throttle body. I guess smooth flow is the key. > > Rowan > > > > >From: David_S_Smith@amat.com > > > > >Rowan, > > > > > >Lots of the latest sport bikes use the "ram air" to force more air >through > > >the > > >carburator. From what I have read, the effect is minimal until the > > >motorcycle > > >gets up well over 100mph. > > > > > >The way they prevent 'upsetting the carb' is by venting the carb to = the > > >intake > > >track so that the float boal sees the same pressure as the intake >track. > > >If the > > >float boal is not vented to the same pressure as the intake track, >then > > >the > > >fuel would be pressurized out of the float boal. > > > > > >They also jet the carb richer on the high end so that it can use the >extra > > >air. > > >Unfortunately, the engine runs rich at full throttle when at lower = road > > >speeds. > > > > > >I remember reading about ram air in one of my issues of Roadracing >World > > >(motorcycle related), so maybe you can find something in their >archives. > > >http://venus.13x.com/roadracingworld/index.html > > > > > >Even if you don't find anything in the Roadracing World site, I would =   >still > > >look > > >through other motorcycle sites because the ram air is so common on >modern > > >sport > > >bikes. > > > > > > > > >So, just how fast do you plan on taking that Hwy 17 pass? > > > > > >Dave > > > >From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> > > > >Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2001 10:34:28 -0800 > > > > > > > > In installing my EFI motor, I have a great deal of freedom of >design > > > >for the air intake system. > > > >The only rule is it must come from the front. > > > >I know my engine will respond best to cold forced air. > > > >A 5lb. supercharger can be installed with nothing but a fuel pump >change. > > > >From this, I assume the ECM will deal with any changes I make, but = if >not > > >I > > > >do have a bro who can reprogram my chip. > > > > > > > > > > > >It seems to me that a carb might be upset by too much pressure = added, > > > >especialy as it would be relatively minor on the street, but a lot = at >say > > > >100mph. > > > > > > > >My system has a MAF sensor that measures the actual amount of air >that > > > >enters the engine, and fuel is adjusted based on that. > > > > What I am looking for is information on sizing my ram air >snorkel. > > > >Do I just go as big as I can (the entire grille opening becomes a >giant > > > >scoop while the radiator is fed by the chin breathing kit from the >donor > > > >car), or is there some practial limitation? > > > >any input, links, or formulae would be welcome. > > > >Thanks, > > > > Rowan *68     _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com      
(back) Subject: Re: Adhesives/Caulking From: "Geoff Martin" <Geoff@firstgenfirebird.org> Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 15:43:06 -0400   Funny someone else mentions the RV industry as a source for the caulk since that is exactly where we got the caulk for my interior restore. We also found the dark/black caulk from the RV plant (Dad worked for Fleetwood) to use on the floor board areas.   Geoff '68 Mayfair Maize Firebird 350 Convertible <http://FirstGenFirebird.org/show/closeup.mv?CarID=3D46> <Geoff@FirstGenFirebird.org>   >I can't ID that dark stuff on the floorpan seams, but the white stuff is >body seam sealer. The seam sealer I used on the driprails of my coach    
(back) Subject: Re: updated photos From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 12:45:23 -0700     Hey, that garage is as big as mine and taller! and your motor is the right color. Looks like a nice project. Rowan *68   >From: "matt schmid" <schmidmj@hotmail.com>   >I got a few more pictures up on the web of what my car looked like under >the >hood when I first bought it. Here's the link >http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=3D1549442 > >I know, I know it's a small garage, but it's all I've got for now. > >Matt >68 350 coupe   _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com      
(back) Subject: Re: 2 Questions. Cooling problem & Tach Hook-up to HEI From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 13:00:19 -0700   Hehe you'd think at 50 MPH in Michigan, cooling would not be a problem, but the =   ONLY time my Caprice overheated was in a snowstorm in Utah...go figure. I'd suggest; thermostat hanging up weak water pump (if the shaft can be wiggld by hand, replace it) clogged radiator (run it , then shut down and feel it from the from the front, the whole thing should be about the same temp.) Excess mechanical resistance(e brake frozen,etc.) *heats up as you drive over 50mph,* A thermostat will usualy spike = fairly high (maybe 10f above rated temp) before opening the first time, so if = your temp goes up to 210 for a minute, then drops down to 160 as the 'stat = gulps some more cold from the radiator, climbs to a steady 180-200 that should = be normal.   there is much discussion of the hoodtach HEI in the archives, maybe even = the FAQ. It can be done fairly easy, but I don't have a Hoodtach. %.02 Rowan *68     >From: "Mike In Michigan" <rockster37@hotmail.com>   >Here is something a little different for everyone, my car heats up as you =   >drive over 50mph, but it can idle all day long in over 100=B0 heat and = stay >cool as a cucumber, why is that? Also, how hard is it to hook up a hood >tach to HEI ingnition, any help me?   _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com      
(back) Subject: Fuel slosh/ Jason Maynard From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 13:10:30 -0700   It is common for EFI converted cars to run out of gas in the corners due = to tank design and the lack of a float bowl for reserve. I'm wondering if anyone has come up with a solution for that besides 'go buy an 18 gallon fuel cell'. I wrestled with this for awhile, and added a can with one way valves = around the fuel inlet sock. it is refilled by the return line, so the small size =   should be ok for anything but circle track. THe worst part wa... I = couldn't find a container smaller than the hole in the top of the tank, so I had to =   grind 1/8" off the ID of the sending unit hole. the tank was empty, dried with air, and continuously evacuated with a shop =   vac just in case. Still made me nervous though. Having an electric fuel pump sure does make draining the tank easy though! Rowan *68   _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com      
(back) Subject: Re: Admin Big Server Crash From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 13:12:41 -0700     Geoff, as A Windows user... I could care less if your fine service goes down once every 6 months... it could be down 3 times a day, and I'd still be satisfied ; ) Thanks Rowan _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com      
(back) Subject: Overheating? From: "Robert Shannon" <bshannon67@hotmail.com> Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 13:26:45 -0700   Hello all. It is absolutely perfect weather here in Phoenix. I finally = am finding the time to take the cover off the care and put the top down = before it gets too hot. I did and everything seemed fine but low and behold my dummy light comes on to indicate I'm overheating. Hmmmmm well the thermostat is new I recently changed the water pump fluids of course are fine. What else could it be? Any ideas? _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com      
(back) Subject: `68 console clock, repiar/parts From: "Chris Porter" <fxstsb@qwest.net> Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 13:58:19 -0700   Anybody have a `68 clock face that need's a `67 face ? I have a `67 clock, with a `68 car. Wondering if anybody want's to trade faces ? On the clock subject. I found a guy that repair's them for a GREAT price. $75 will get all new solenoid's, speed adjustment, and a 2yr warranty. I was told originally it would be around $300 to repair the clock. This guy will remove my current clock face and "swap" 'em. He usually has some, but is currently out. $15 for the face normally, if he had one. He said he can repaint and screen it, but 3 times the price. Just letting you all know about the good price for clock repair.     Chris `68 350 H.O. Drop-top     P.S. Got my HO stripe kit in my hand's, looking forward to putting them on !      
(back) Subject: updated photos From: "Keith Donmoyer" <kadonny@hotmail.com> Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 17:29:43 -0400   Matt,   Great pics. Do you have room to change your mind in that garage??? = (Sorry, I just couldn't resist since you already brought it up) You wanna see a = real garage, go to my page   www.geocities.com/kldonny/   Matt, I hope you have a good sense of humor, I do it only in fun. In reality, you are lucky to have the car stored in any indoor space, I have =   seen way to many cars exposed to the harsh elements 24/7 and that really depresses me.   Keith 68 H.O.   Subject: updated photos From: "matt schmid" <schmidmj@hotmail.com> Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 17:28:26   I got a few more pictures up on the web of what my car looked like under = the hood when I first bought it. Here's the link http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=3D1549442   I know, I know it's a small garage, but it's all I've got for now.   Matt 68 350 coupe _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com      
(back) Subject: Re: Overheating? From: <hugoba@apcom.com> Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 15:44:19 -0700 (PDT)   The fluids could be fine but if the car has been sitting for 6 months+ I = would suggest that you flush the cooling system (you can buy a flush kit for a = few bucks) real well. Unfortunately cars that don't get run too much tend to = build up rust and junk in the radiator (and water pathways) which can clog = things up. I would also check the thermostat if you replaced it last year to make = sure that it hasn't gotten stuck from sitting there for months.   Hugo   > From Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com Mon Apr 9 15:32:31 2001 > X-Originating-IP: [65.161.97.94] > From: "Robert Shannon" <bshannon67@hotmail.com> > To: Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com > Subject: Overheating? > Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 13:26:45 -0700 > Mime-Version: 1.0 > X-OriginalArrivalTime: 09 Apr 2001 20:26:46.0098 (UTC) > FILETIME=3D[65C07B20:01C0C133] > > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > Hello all. It is absolutely perfect weather here in Phoenix. I finally = am > finding the time to take the cover off the care and put the top down = before > it gets too hot. I did and everything seemed fine but low and behold my =   > dummy light comes on to indicate I'm overheating. Hmmmmm well the > thermostat is new I recently changed the water pump fluids of course are =   > fine. What else could it be? Any ideas? > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > >    
(back) Subject: Re: Overheating? From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 16:07:12 -0700   sender wire has come loose/wire shorted to ground? fan clutch gone bad? does it come on with the engine cold? under what conditions?   Rowan     >From: "Robert Shannon" <bshannon67@hotmail.com> >Hello all. It is absolutely perfect weather here in Phoenix. I finally = am >finding the time to take the cover off the care and put the top down = before >it gets too hot. I did and everything seemed fine but low and behold my >dummy light comes on to indicate I'm overheating. Hmmmmm well the >thermostat is new I recently changed the water pump fluids of course are >fine. What else could it be? Any ideas?   _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com      
(back) Subject: Re: updated photos From: <hugoba@apcom.com> Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 16:07:50 -0700 (PDT)   It's one of those German garages, gut'ntight ;-)   Car's lookin good.   Hugo   > From Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com Mon Apr 9 15:53:38 2001 > X-Originating-IP: [64.48.54.74] > From: "Keith Donmoyer" <kadonny@hotmail.com> > To: Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com > Subject: updated photos > Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 17:29:43 -0400 > Mime-Version: 1.0 > X-OriginalArrivalTime: 09 Apr 2001 21:29:43.0859 (UTC) > FILETIME=3D[31791030:01C0C13C] > > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > Matt, > > Great pics. Do you have room to change your mind in that garage??? = (Sorry, > I just couldn't resist since you already brought it up) You wanna see a = real > garage, go to my page > > www.geocities.com/kldonny/ > > Matt, I hope you have a good sense of humor, I do it only in fun. In > reality, you are lucky to have the car stored in any indoor space, I = have > seen way to many cars exposed to the harsh elements 24/7 and that really =   > depresses me. > > Keith > 68 H.O. > > Subject: updated photos > From: "matt schmid" <schmidmj@hotmail.com> > Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 17:28:26 > > I got a few more pictures up on the web of what my car looked like under = the > hood when I first bought it. Here's the link > http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=3D1549442 > > I know, I know it's a small garage, but it's all I've got for now. > > Matt > 68 350 coupe > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > >    
(back) Subject: Re: Firebird-L Digest #1844 From: "Wayne Crist" <crist@flash.net> Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 18:21:39 -0500   The shims are ok but there is a easier more permit solution several people in my local club have used. Buy a box of BB's. Nearly fill the holes with the BB's leaving 1/4 inch to the surface and fill with the remainder with JB weld. Sand to level. Works like a charm an you only have to mess with it once.   Wayne TX    
(back) Subject: Re: 2 Questions. Cooling problem & Tach Hook-up to HEI From: "Joe Brown" <jb.pb@gte.net> Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 19:47:06 -0400   It could be that @ 50 mph your water pump is going to fast and not letting the water cool off in the radiator( if the pulley has been change to a different six ) 2- the pump impeller is slipping on the shaft inside the pump causing less flow 3- maybe the fan is going so fast that it is creating a wall and not letting cool air by it . 4 - Something is = blocking the flow at      
(back) Subject: 1969 Firebird power antenna From: <E21pilot@aol.com> Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 20:18:42 EDT   Was there an option for a power antenna in 1969? Was it controlled by the = radio or a separate switch (much like the power top switch on a = convertible)?   Thanks,   Rich W.    
(back) Subject: Re: Firebird-L Digest #1844 From: <hugoba@apcom.com> Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 17:51:02 -0700 (PDT)   This sounds interesting but what is it refering to.   Hugo   > From Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com Mon Apr 9 17:46:47 2001 > Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 18:21:39 -0500 > From: Wayne Crist <crist@flash.net> > X-Accept-Language: en > MIME-Version: 1.0 > To: First Generation Firebird-L <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> > Subject: Re: Firebird-L Digest #1844 > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > The shims are ok but there is a easier more permit solution several > people in my local club have used. Buy a box of BB's. Nearly fill the > holes with the BB's leaving 1/4 inch to the surface and fill with the > remainder with JB weld. Sand to level. Works like a charm an you only > have to mess with it once. > > Wayne > TX    
(back) Subject: Re: Water Pump Plates From: "Andy" <fbird68@ix.netcom.com> Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 19:22:15 -0700   Jason,   Thanks for the confirmation. That's how I've been doing it for 18 years. = I'm hoping to do a rebuild soon (rather than just keep talking about it) = and I wanted to know whether I needed to address this, too.   Andy     > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Subject: Water Pump Plates > From: "Jason Rogers" <jason.rogers@york.com> > Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 11:11:39 -0400 > > Andy, > > You have the early pump and it is correct as you describe. There is = nothing > hold the plates, they sit one inside the other then both sit inside the > housing. The gasket then goes on (sealer on both surfaces) and the = outer > plate has a flat part on the passenger side that gets covered a little = by > the gasket and gasket sealer. You will see when you put it together. > > Subject: Re: Water Pump Plates > From: "Andy" <fbird68@ix.netcom.com> > Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 23:30:31 -0700 > > So, based on Bob's note, my setup is OK. Mine has eight bolt holes, one > gasket between the pump and timing cover and two plates that fit loosely > behind the pump. No tubes, no grommets. > > I don't remember there being large enough mating surfaces between the = two > plates to hold them together with sealant, but I haven't had the pump = off in > four years. The '68 service manual doesn't even mention the plates, so = it's > of no help (unless I missed it). There was nothing holding the plates > together or to the timing cover the first time I opened it up. Should = there > be? > > Andy >