First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List Re: Ram Air 101 by "Andy" <fbird68@ix.netcom.com> Re: Starter shims? by <Studderin@aol.com> Re: Firebird-L Digest #1852 by "Wayne Crist" <crist@flash.net> Classical Pontiac Ad 58359 by <hugoba@apcom.com> 14 Inch Wheels by <SteveBrady1@aol.com> Power Windows Wiring by "Jim Thomson" <jthomson@san.rr.com> Re: Sprint car tranny by "Steve Stinefelt" <stevestinefelt@hawaii.rr.com> Re: RE Overheating now choking by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com>
(back) Subject: Re: Ram Air 101 From: "Andy" <fbird68@ix.netcom.com> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 18:31:56 -0700 Dave, Rather than remove the high beams, I was thinking of doing this by cutting = holes in the radiator skirts. There is room on each side, down near where = the radiator support mounts to the subframe. Someday I want to cut some = holes and mount some three-inch collars to the rubber mats that surround = the radiator on 400- and AC-equipped birds, then run tubing to a modified air cleaner housing (one with a second snorkel added). Has anyone = tried this? Andy > Subject: Re: Ram Air 101 > From: <David_S_Smith@amat.com> > Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 11:25:10 -0500 > > The motorcycles use the high pressure area in the front to force feeding = more > air into the engine at high speeds. The greater the pressure, the more = O2 the > engine gets. Do the drag racers go faster in Denver or Houston? > > If I were going to do this to a 68 Firebird, I would remove the high = beams and > then duct the air from that area to the air filter assembly with large = aluminium > tubing (like maybe from a clothes dryer). > > I imagine that you would have to cut holes in the core support for the = tubing. > You would also have to build a air filter assembly that accepts the 2 = large > hoses. But then again, you could always remove the whole assembly = pretty easily > also. > > Dave
(back) Subject: Re: Starter shims? From: <Studderin@aol.com> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 21:57:53 EDT In a message dated 4/10/2001 6:43:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Studderin@aol.com writes: When I mount a new starter on a Pontiac engine do I need to shim it like the chevy guys do? If so, how is the procedure? /Niklas << My dad told me this once and it has always worked without any spacing problems ever. Out of about 5 times I've used it's and 15+ years he has = too. With the inspection cover off and the started tightened down with your = guess on the amount shims needed. You should be able to fit the shank of a = drill between the teeth the flywheel/flexplate and the shaft at the end of the = started that the cracking gear slides out to engage, and retracts after = the motor is running. Only thing is I don't remember the size to use as a gauge. If anyone else knows please remind me. I should be able to find out in a day. or two. Better yet I'll check a few motors on tues or weds. John Costello >> Niklas, I checked today on a motor and a 1/8 (.125) drill bit fit with a = slight drag. And when doing this from under the car, you have to test the fit by holding the drill bit at 45' angle or else you hit the casting of the starter (the 180' alum. cover, and the end that covers the flywheel). You = have to use a drill bit or something round (feeler gauge won't fit of anything square) I't look's like you can't get a drill bit between the starter shaft = and the teeth off the flywheel (It hits the starter body) This is why you have = to hold and slide the drill into to space from a 45' angle. It's the only way = it will fit. I know this may sound like a lot of work but it's better than haveing = the starter mess up the teeth on your flywheel. Or the noiseof the starter = after the motor is running, and the starter still engaged whinning and burning = up . John Costello
(back) Subject: Re: Firebird-L Digest #1852 From: "Wayne Crist" <crist@flash.net> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 21:51:53 -0500 > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > Hugo, sounds to me like Wayne may have been addressing my "Extra EGR = Prot" > problem. If not, it sounds like this would be a good solution to filling > this extra dead space in the head... no chance for an exhaust leak. > > If so, thanks for the suggestion Wayne - Brett You got it Brett it is handle spaces in the heads - I forgot to reference the topic I responded to. Wayne TX
(back) Subject: Classical Pontiac Ad 58359 From: <hugoba@apcom.com> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 22:52:07 -0500 (CDT) Saw this ad on the Classicalpontiac classifieds. Not sure if it's still = there. 68 400 motor its a 400 with two barrel carb. ran great when parked except for timing = chain rattle its in a 68 Bonneville 4 dr. car is wrecked in passenger = front will take $350.00 for motor or $400.00 for whole car Name: Josh State: TN Country: USA Email: M21CRS@aol.com Posted: 1/17/01 Number: 58359
(back) Subject: 14 Inch Wheels From: <SteveBrady1@aol.com> Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 01:03:37 EDT I'm picking up a set of 14 inch wheels tomorrow, and I need to know what = the best tire size is that will clear the wheel wells with no problem, yet = still being good sized. Steve Brady 68 400 Convertible http://members.nbci.com/srb/
(back) Subject: Power Windows Wiring From: "Jim Thomson" <jthomson@san.rr.com> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 22:22:16 -0700 I have a '68 with the original power windows, although I replaced all the wiring harnesses when I restored the interior. I am having a problem with the main cable that connects to the master switch on the drivers side = door. The problem is the fairly fat cable that connects to the switch does not = fit well between the window and the door panel. Every time the window goes up and down, the window rubs on the cable. Also, I need to open the door = about half way to get all the connector contacts to make contact so the switches for the rear windows work. It would work much better with a flat ribbon style cable that stays flush to the door panel. Has anybody else = experienced this problem and done anything to correct it? Jim Thomson '68 400 Ragtop
(back) Subject: Re: Sprint car tranny From: "Steve Stinefelt" <stevestinefelt@hawaii.rr.com> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 21:42:13 -1000 I checked my '68 Pontiac service manual, and it looks like the Sprint was offered with an automatic. The engine code for it was ZE while the 4 = manual tranny engines had a ZD code. If anyone out there is looking to buy that = NJ Sprint car, check the engine code on the passenger side of the block. = It's just to the rear of the coil bracket, on the deck of the block, just under the cylinder head. I hope this helps. Steve '68 Sprint 4-spd ------------------------------ Chris Porter wrote: I was under the impression that all Sprint car's where manual's. Is this correct ? Or could you get an auto ?
(back) Subject: Re: RE Overheating now choking From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 00:56:20 -0700 when a Q-jet has a sunk/stuck float, it will constantly run gas onto the throttle plates, blocking the airgap that controls idle. Makes the exhast = smell realy bad. Usualy there will be gas around the top of the carb too = if this is the case. Tapping the top of the float bowl will sometimes = help(for a while, pinpoints the problem anyway). hmmmm...... Order of operations should be: 1)dwell 2)timing 3)idle 4)mixture 5)idle 6)beer maybe something in the distributor slipped a litle 'Luck, Rowan >From: "Robert Shannon" <bshannon67@hotmail.com> >I should clarify. The car really hasn't sat for too long so I didn't = jump >for flushing the radiator just yet. Instead I took off the thermostat so = I >could drive the car around and see if it would overheat again. I knew it >wasn't just a faulty light since the engine comparment was getting quite >hot >lately. Anyway I did this yesterday and while driving it I had another >issue that I think could be related or at least affecting each other that = I >would like to fix first. I recently tuned the car and set timing, dwell, >idle etc... well I must have not done a great job because often the car >would start to die if I wasn't giving it gas. (it got to the point where = I >had to brake with my left and rev with my right foot while putting the = auto >in nuetral. When I would give it gas it seemed to run REAL hard. Either >way I approached it, it seemed to choke to death. I had a friend of mine >tune it up by ear at his shop (figures it had no problems there) It = seemed >to be fine for a day or so then it sat a little. Well yesterday it has >started again. I can't figure out why. Any ideas. Am I just really bad = >at >tuning? I thought the choke was stuck or something but it was fully = open. >What should I do next? Thanks for all the help. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com