First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List Re: Starter shims? by "Steve" <poncho68sa@hotmail.com> RE:Sprint trannys by "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Fuel Question by "Keith Donmoyer" <kadonny@hotmail.com>
(back) Subject: Re: Starter shims? From: "Steve" <poncho68sa@hotmail.com> Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 01:25:08 -0500 1/8 " allen wrench maybe? Dont really know , have not had to do it. Thanks- Steve.... poncho68sa@hotmail.com 68 Firebird Restoration http://lightning.locl.net/homes/sapple/index.html Pontiac Firebird Links http://communities.msn.com/PontiacFirebirdLinks/home.htm '68 Firebird Photos http://communities.msn.com/68FirebirdRestoration/home.htm ----- Original Message ----- From: <Studderin@aol.com> To: <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2001 8:57 PM Subject: Re: Starter shims? > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > In a message dated 4/10/2001 6:43:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > Studderin@aol.com writes: > When I mount a new starter on a Pontiac engine do I need > to shim it like the chevy guys do? > If so, how is the procedure? > > > /Niklas > > << My dad told me this once and it has always worked without any spacing > problems ever. Out of about 5 times I've used it's and 15+ years he has too. > With the inspection cover off and the started tightened down with your guess > on the amount shims needed. You should be able to fit the shank of a drill > between the teeth the flywheel/flexplate and the shaft at the end of = the > started that the cracking gear slides out to engage, and retracts after the > motor is running. > Only thing is I don't remember the size to use as a gauge. If = anyone > else > knows please remind me. I should be able to find out in a day. or two. > Better > yet I'll check a few motors on tues or weds. > John Costello >> > > > > Niklas, > I checked today on a motor and a 1/8 (.125) drill bit fit with a slight > drag. And when doing this from under the car, you have to test the fit = by > holding the drill bit at 45' angle or else you hit the casting of the > starter (the 180' alum. cover, and the end that covers the flywheel). = You > have to use a drill bit or something round (feeler gauge won't fit of > anything square) > I't look's like you can't get a drill bit between the starter shaft and > the teeth off the flywheel (It hits the starter body) This is why you = have to > hold and slide the drill into to space from a 45' angle. It's the only = way it > will fit. > I know this may sound like a lot of work but it's better than = haveing the > starter mess up the teeth on your flywheel. Or the noiseof the starter after > the motor is running, and the starter still engaged whinning and burning up . > John Costello
(back) Subject: RE:Sprint trannys From: "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 06:03:07 -0400 Keith Says> Subject: Sprint Trans From: "Keith Donmoyer" <kadonny@hotmail.com> Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 10:06:57 -0400 Chris, Yes the Sprint was available in an automatic. Per the First Gen Firebird site sales manual, trans available were as follows: 3 Speed Manual Trans Engine code ZD trans code FY 4 Speed Manual Trans Engine code also ZD trans code FH Automatic (not available with air) Engine code ZE trans code LG (sprint only) Keith 68 H.O. Keith 66 and 67 Sprints were the only models available with a/c. Transmission choices were the same for a/c and non-a/c cars. I have 2 67s Tempests Sprints that are factory a/c cars. These are about as rare as the Ram Air cars(tho not as valuable) It was dropped for 68&9 regardless of transmission. Gary
(back) Subject: Fuel Question From: "Keith Donmoyer" <kadonny@hotmail.com> Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 07:43:31 -0400 Matt, is your car a "plain Jane" 2 bbl? I agree with the other guys = answers as starting with a relatively higher octance, see how it runs, and then = drop down to a little lower octane if it runs ok for economical purposes (especially if you car is lower compression car). The problem is that = these older engines with higher compression 10:1 and higher just don't like the low octane fuel. My 350 HO car, with compression of 10.5:1 gets a slight ping under very heavy acceleration and I run the highest octane pump gas (Sunoco 94) that I can get, so I am debating whether to add the Tolulene = to my fuel or buy some 100 octane fuel to boost my levels up. It seems in reading up on it, from what I have heard, a rough guage octane level is to = take your compression and multiply by 10, that gives you optimum octane. ex. 9.5:1 compression x 10 =3D 95 optimum octane. I am not an expert, = this is just what I have read. Hope this helps. Keith 68 H.O. Subject: Fuel question From: "matt schmid" <schmidmj@hotmail.com> Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 02:18:32 Hey guys, I have a question. I think this has been addressed before but = you know how us young people are, in one ear and out the other if it's not something we are currently contemplating. Anyway, I've got the Bird that I just bought pretty much back together and it will most likely be ready to crank this weekend. Now, having never owned anything older than myself = until now, my question is...What kind of fuel should I use and does it need any additives? I know back around that time fuel was leaded, so I'm just wondering if I need to add something to it and if premium is needed or = just regular? Thanks ahead of time for the help. Matt 68 350 coupe _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com