First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List
 
Moved ?
  by "Chris Porter" <fxstsb@qwest.net>
Re: was Fuel Question/now intake problem
  by "David Learner" <davidlearner@yahoo.com>
Shocks
  by "Mace" <macef@optonline.net>
Re: was Fuel Question/now intake problem
  by "John Wern" <jwern@charter.net>
400 hood emblems
  by "Joanne Knight" <jknight3@kc.rr.com>
P-O-N-T-I-A-C emblem template for 68 firebird
  by "Joanne Knight" <jknight3@kc.rr.com>
hood tach location
  by "Joanne Knight" <jknight3@kc.rr.com>
455 Year of Manufacture
  by "Curt Doggett" <ccdogget@ida.net>
Rear End Values
  by "Curt Doggett" <ccdogget@ida.net>
Re: was Fuel Question/now intake problem
  by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com>
69 vert on ebay
  by "Brett Luikkonen" <brett@cisdirect.com>
E*Bay Hood Tach Note
  by <Framair@aol.com>
350 in a 400 for sale...
  by "Brett Luikkonen" <brett@cisdirect.com>
Intake question
  by "Brett Luikkonen" <brett@cisdirect.com>
Re: Hood hinge springs
  by <Jimc2002@aol.com>
Re: Overheating?
  by <Jimc2002@aol.com>
More e-bay crap!
  by <Studderin@aol.com>
Bird owners in NM
  by "Brett Luikkonen" <brett@cisdirect.com>
68 for sale in so cal
  by "Keith Donmoyer" <kadonny@hotmail.com>
Rebuilding steering box
  by "Jeff Davis" <jeff763@email.com>
Re: Shocks
  by <hugoba@apcom.com>
Re: 455 Year of Manufacture
  by <PStonebrak@aol.com>
Re: Power Windows Wiring
  by <JGeigel@aol.com>
Hood springs
  by "Chris Porter" <fxstsb@qwest.net>
Re: Rear End Values
  by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com>
RE: 69 vert on ebay
  by "Mace" <macef@optonline.net>
Re: E*Bay Hood Tach Note
  by "Stuart Langer" <stumann1@mindspring.com>
Johnny Lightning
  by "Mace" <macef@optonline.net>
Sway Bar Kits
  by "Kelly VanderPloeg" <kvdploeg1@home.com>
Re: Rebuilding steering box
  by <Studderin@aol.com>
 

(back) Subject: Moved ? From: "Chris Porter" <fxstsb@qwest.net> Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 16:38:26 -0700   Hey Binty, you moved out of Portland ? Going to be a long drive to come and see me now ;-).     Chris `68 350 H.O. Drop-top      
(back) Subject: Re: was Fuel Question/now intake problem From: "David Learner" <davidlearner@yahoo.com> Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 18:01:03 -0700 (PDT)   Matt: Drain the cooling system down below the manifold level by using the radiator drain or by loosening the lower radiator hose. Cut down a spare plastic 5 gallon bucket to catch as much coolant as possible. Some of the radiator drain cocks will accept about a 3/8" i.d. fuel line to direct the flow and you can recover the coolant. To pull the manifold just remove the small bolt that points toward the radiator that secures the water pump and timing cover assembly to the manifold. Then remove all of the bolts securing the manifold to the heads (about 8 or 10 bolts). There is no need to remove the water pump or the timing chain cover to change the intake gaskets. You will also have to disconnect your throttle linkage, power brake booster hose, upper radiator hose, temperature sensor wire, distributor vacuum advance line, transmission vacuum line, and maybe a few other misc. things that slip my memory without having an engine in front of me to look at. Once its all disconnected, you can CAREFULLY pry the manifold loose and slightly to the rear, then remove it. I like to have a helper lift a manifold out because they are a bit heavy and its an awkward position to bend over and lift by yourself. Don't be discouraged - it's very straightforward and won't take as long as it sounds. Maybe a couple of hours to pull it off and replace the gaskets if its your first time. When you go to reinstall, be sure to clean and lightly oil all bolt threads, and really clean the sealing surfaces for the O-ring seal between the intake and the back of the water pump (timing cover). Be sure to replace that O-ring seal - it should come with the manifold gasket set (Fel-Pro makes a quality gasket set for this application). Put a little RTV Silicone sealer on both sides of the O-ring, install it between the intake and the back of the timing chain cover, then use the bolt that points toward the radiator to pull the intake forward and compress the O-ring seal. Very important - be sure to do that before putting ANY tension on the manifold-to-head bolts. Then just torque the manifold-to-head bolts (don't know the specs, probably close to 30 ft-lbs), hook up all the other stuff you had to take loose, then refill the radiator. Hope this helps - its really not as involved as it may sound. Let us know how it goes. David Learner '69 'Vert '67 'Vert --- matt schmid <schmidmj@hotmail.com> wrote: > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > .......................................................................... > Thank you sir. Now it's time for another question. I'm just full of > them > lately. Here's the story.... > > Today I was doing the finishing touches on the bird, you know, > filling it > with oil, putting anti-freeze in and water. Hooking up all the > electrical, > charging the battery. I was so excited, because I was going to start > my baby > (close to wetting myself) Anyway, to get to the point, the gasket for > the > intake manifold was leaking in more than just one place. I'm going to > have > to replace the gasket, I guess stuff like happens when you buy a used > car. > My question is, do I need to remove the water pump to remove the > intake > manifold? I have a Chilton's manual and it doesn't seem to mention > it, but > it looks like I would have to, can someone verify this one way or the > other > for me? I really wanna get this damn thing running. Also, how do you > get > excess water/anti-freeze out of the manifold before unbolting it so > it > doesn't go everywhere? Thanks. > > Matt > 68 350 coupe     __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/    
(back) Subject: Shocks From: "Mace" <macef@optonline.net> Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 23:17:32 -0400   Is there anyone on this list that can tell me what is the best shock setup to use on a 69 convertible with a multileaf setup. I have tried comp engineering drag shocks and $200.00 Bilstein shocks that ride like I am on = a mack truck suspension. I don't want to buy 10 more pairs to find the right ones. I have a polygraphite setup all around so I want the car to handle = as well as be a nice cruiser. Any help would be greatly appreciated. P.S..I would like to know about the fronts also.... Mace 69 355 Drop-Top      
(back) Subject: Re: was Fuel Question/now intake problem From: "John Wern" <jwern@charter.net> Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 23:36:27 -0400   Hey man - It's all good. But I dont get what's leaking. (Just by putting water in the radiator??) Dont fool with the water pump If you take off the intake there is a small rubber "o" ring where it seats into the ntake. - dont loose it. #1. believe it or not it dont leak. But bigger question - whats leaking? take a picture and put a finger what you are talking about. It's easier than you think. - For one thing - get rid of CHILTONS Get the Pontiac manual. I have both - I'm a novice and I go = only by this web ring and the pontiac book. If you ask me Chiltons is for '70-'82. I know what it says but if you ask me it aint worth sand in a plastic factory. John. -----Original Message----- From: matt schmid <schmidmj@hotmail.com> To: Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> Date: Thursday, April 12, 2001 6:58 PM Subject: was Fuel Question/now intake problem     >First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List >......................................................................... >Thank you sir. Now it's time for another question. I'm just full of them >lately. Here's the story.... > >Today I was doing the finishing touches on the bird, you know, filling it >with oil, putting anti-freeze in and water. Hooking up all the = electrical, >charging the battery. I was so excited, because I was going to start my baby >(close to wetting myself) Anyway, to get to the point, the gasket for the >intake manifold was leaking in more than just one place. I'm going to = have >to replace the gasket, I guess stuff like happens when you buy a used = car. >My question is, do I need to remove the water pump to remove the intake >manifold? I have a Chilton's manual and it doesn't seem to mention it, = but >it looks like I would have to, can someone verify this one way or the = other >for me? I really wanna get this damn thing running. Also, how do you get >excess water/anti-freeze out of the manifold before unbolting it so it >doesn't go everywhere? Thanks. > >Matt >68 350 coupe > > >.... >>Matt - >> Stock 350 2bbl is 9.2 compression according to the 68 service >>manual. 350 HO 4bbl is 10.5. I've heard many people say the *actual* >>compression is a bit less than that, but usually that's in reference to the >>earlier engines like the '63 389 I had in my grand prix. Those were stated >>as 10.75 but in reality closer to 10. I'm certainly no expert, just = what >>I've read in several places. I run premium in my 350, which is >>non-rebuilt, 49,000 original miles. It has been switched over to 1.65 >>rockers, edelbrock peformer and 4bbl. >> >>Mike >>68 350 Coupe        
(back) Subject: 400 hood emblems From: "Joanne Knight" <jknight3@kc.rr.com> Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 22:20:26 -0500   Does anyone have a template for the 400 emblems on the 400 hood? (68 firebird)        
(back) Subject: P-O-N-T-I-A-C emblem template for 68 firebird From: "Joanne Knight" <jknight3@kc.rr.com> Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 22:21:20 -0500   Does anyone have the installation template for the pontiac lettering on = the rear lid of a 68 firebird?        
(back) Subject: hood tach location From: "Joanne Knight" <jknight3@kc.rr.com> Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 22:23:25 -0500   I have an aftermarket tach that only has directions for the GTO placement. Do you have the specifics on the location for the tach on my 68 firebird?        
(back) Subject: 455 Year of Manufacture From: "Curt Doggett" <ccdogget@ida.net> Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 22:18:48 -0600   What years were 455s made by Pontiac?   Thanks   Curt      
(back) Subject: Rear End Values From: "Curt Doggett" <ccdogget@ida.net> Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 22:24:06 -0600   I'm curious what people have paid for a second gen rear end? Also my local junk yard has a huge pile of unlableled rear ends. Does anyone know an easy way to identify the one I'm looking for (2nd Gen w/disc brakes)?   Thanks again   Curt      
(back) Subject: Re: was Fuel Question/now intake problem From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 21:47:45 -0700   I hate to add more to your to do list, but.... CHECK THE TORQUE OF HEAD BOLTS! also the flywheel to crankshaft bolts if the trany seems to have been removed from the engine. Nothing sucks worse han a finger tight car. Excess coolant can be siphoned You should be able to leave the water pump in place, sliding the manifold back a little then up, but the fitting may give you a hard time. 'Luck Rowan     >From: "matt schmid" <schmidmj@hotmail.com> >Thank you sir. Now it's time for another question. I'm just full of them >lately. Here's the story.... > >Today I was doing the finishing touches on the bird, you know, filling it >with oil, putting anti-freeze in and water. Hooking up all the = electrical, >charging the battery. I was so excited, because I was going to start my >baby >(close to wetting myself) Anyway, to get to the point, the gasket for the >intake manifold was leaking in more than just one place. I'm going to = have >to replace the gasket, I guess stuff like happens when you buy a used = car. >My question is, do I need to remove the water pump to remove the intake >manifold? I have a Chilton's manual and it doesn't seem to mention it, = but >it looks like I would have to, can someone verify this one way or the = other >for me? I really wanna get this damn thing running. Also, how do you get >excess water/anti-freeze out of the manifold before unbolting it so it >doesn't go everywhere? Thanks. > >Matt >68 350 coupe > > >.... >>Matt - >> Stock 350 2bbl is 9.2 compression according to the 68 service >>manual. 350 HO 4bbl is 10.5. I've heard many people say the *actual* >>compression is a bit less than that, but usually that's in reference to >>the >>earlier engines like the '63 389 I had in my grand prix. Those were >>stated >>as 10.75 but in reality closer to 10. I'm certainly no expert, just = what >>I've read in several places. I run premium in my 350, which is >>non-rebuilt, 49,000 original miles. It has been switched over to 1.65 >>rockers, edelbrock peformer and 4bbl. >> >>Mike >>68 350 Coupe   _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com      
(back) Subject: 69 vert on ebay From: "Brett Luikkonen" <brett@cisdirect.com> Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 06:26:18 -0500   If you guy's haven't seen the 69 Vert on ebay, it's well worth a look! And all you TPI swappers, will LOVE this car... One nice ride with all the "modern" upgrades you could want!   Just thought I'd pass it on... - Brett    
(back) Subject: E*Bay Hood Tach Note From: <Framair@aol.com> Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 10:02:44 EDT   There is a Hood Tach currently being auctioned on E-Bay that is stated as having come from a '68 Firebird. This is NOT a correct factory (or Pontiac) Hood Tach. Actually, it is an aftermarket Hood Tach from the late 60s/early 70s made by Dixco. These were used on many different makes & models including Mustangs, MoPars and AMCs.   Item #579237338   Just thought I'd share this with anyone who might be interested and was not aware of this.       John FRamair@aol.com Semper Fi Ephesians 4:32    
(back) Subject: 350 in a 400 for sale... From: "Brett Luikkonen" <brett@cisdirect.com> Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 08:06:34 -0500   Yeah Brian, that is or was the one on ebay too... and that is one of the things that makes it so rare... LOL... In effect a destroked, detorqued, demoted "400"...   The car itself looks decent, that motor would have gone in my truck... and a 400 would have found it's way back in... The fact that it's a relatively rust free car is the big thing!   Brett!        
(back) Subject: Intake question From: "Brett Luikkonen" <brett@cisdirect.com> Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 08:22:58 -0500   Matt, I'm sure you have gotten the answer by now (I only get the list once a day) But no you don't have to remove the Water pump or timing cover. There is the one long bolt above the port that connects the intake and the water pump that as many have suggested, when you are installing the intake, start to tighten this one first to cinch up the intake to the pump to avoid any leaks. Then tighten the rest as per the manual.   My question is, do I need to remove the water pump to remove the intake manifold? - Matt - 68 350 coupe    
(back) Subject: Re: Hood hinge springs From: <Jimc2002@aol.com> Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 11:51:27 EDT   Chris,   By coincidence - I just remounted my hood hinges after degreassing 33 = years of gunk off of them, painting them and finally oiling the rivets/pivot points. My hood used to stay up full and at any position. I guess the springs were being assisted by the dirt embedded in them. I have 2 new springs on order from Year 1 - awaiting delivery. I'll let you know how = they work when I get them. I am able to remove the old springs (with the hood safely and securely held open) by pulling front of the spring off the = hinge indentation with a pair of channel locks.   Jim 68 400 HO Conv.    
(back) Subject: Re: Overheating? From: <Jimc2002@aol.com> Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 12:05:13 EDT   Robert,   Besides the cooling system - I've had the temp sending unit fail and send = a false indication to the dummy light.   Jim    
(back) Subject: More e-bay crap! From: <Studderin@aol.com> Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 12:17:51 EDT   Item #579237338 NOS 68 firebird hood tach.........it's a Dixion just letting everone Know    
(back) Subject: Bird owners in NM From: "Brett Luikkonen" <brett@cisdirect.com> Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 09:45:40 -0500   I know there is one more in NM, Danny. He is on his way back from picking = up his car in Southern OR! We talked a bit, you can contact him from his web page: http://www.geocities.com/dannyboylll/index.htm   It's great to get together with fellow enthusiasts! Good luck - Brett   Gidday Listers I have been offline and on the move. Previously an Oregonian, I packed the 'Bird and moved to Farmington NM. In the last two days i have seen two '68's and a '69, so if one of those was you, drop me a line! bintione@yahoo.com Cheers      
(back) Subject: 68 for sale in so cal From: "Keith Donmoyer" <kadonny@hotmail.com> Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 12:47:40 -0400   This is a very rare car......well worth the asking price..I mean who would =   want the original motor, naah, not very rare, maybe even another poncho mill, naah still not rare enough...I know, lets put in a Chevy...no one would ever put a chevy in a pontiac, then we will have a very rare car = that we can ask alot of money for!!!!   Hmmmmm, I bet that was the conversation that went on when the engine compartment was empty....another thing that is empty is that guys head.   Keith 68 H.O. (no chevy in this car)     Subject: Re: 68 for sale in the So Cal/LA area From: "Brian Sargent" <bjsbird1@yahoo.com> Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 11:02:02 -0700 (PDT)   Brett, That sounds like the one on e-bay. It is rare for a Firebird "400" to have a chevy 350 in it. Brian 69 conv   _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com      
(back) Subject: Rebuilding steering box From: "Jeff Davis" <jeff763@email.com> Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 13:31:31 -0400 (EDT)   I just looked in the FAQs for instructions/procedures for rebuilding the steering box but only found recommendations for replacement box as a = whole.   I'd like to rebuild the box as it is leaking fluid. Does anyone know the best and easiest way to replace the seal around the shaft? I believe this is the only part that needs to be replaced since fluid is leaking form = that area. Does the whole box need to be removed or can it be partially disassembled while still mounted?   Your input would be greatly appreciated.   Jeff Davis '68 350 convertible     ----------------------------------------------- FREE! The World's Best Email Address @email.com Reserve your name now at http://www.email.com        
(back) Subject: Re: Shocks From: <hugoba@apcom.com> Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 13:11:22 -0700 (PDT)   I'm happy with the KYB's. PST has them.   Hugo   > From Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com Fri Apr 13 13:05:48 2001 > Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 23:17:32 -0400 > From: Mace <macef@optonline.net> > Subject: Shocks > To: BIRD GROUP <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> > MIME-version: 1.0 > X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.3018.1300 > Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > Importance: Normal > X-Priority: 3 (Normal) > X-MSMail-priority: Normal > > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > Is there anyone on this list that can tell me what is the best = shock > setup to use on a 69 convertible with a multileaf setup. I have tried = comp > engineering drag shocks and $200.00 Bilstein shocks that ride like I am = on a > mack truck suspension. I don't want to buy 10 more pairs to find the = right > ones. I have a polygraphite setup all around so I want the car to handle = as > well as be a nice cruiser. Any help would be greatly appreciated. P.S..I > would like to know about the fronts also.... > Mace > 69 355 Drop-Top >    
(back) Subject: Re: 455 Year of Manufacture From: <PStonebrak@aol.com> Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 16:25:25 EDT   1970-1976    
(back) Subject: Re: Power Windows Wiring From: <JGeigel@aol.com> Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 16:42:54 EDT   Jim,   I haven't had this problem, but I do have an original power window car = that I am about to take the door panels off of. Do you need any photos, or is = the problem that the repro stuff causes a problem?   Joe Geigel    
(back) Subject: Hood springs From: "Chris Porter" <fxstsb@qwest.net> Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 14:07:38 -0700   Jim, I'm picking mine up next week from GM. My hood did the same thing. Stayed open fine ( with the new, to me, hinges ), then I did some destructive maintenance ( LOL ) and oiled them. NO MORE OPEN HOOD ! ! ! I'll let all know how it turn's out when the springs come in.     Chris `68 350 H.O. Drop-top      
(back) Subject: Re: Rear End Values From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 14:09:08 -0700   $68at my local self service yard... with the added benefit of being able to mix and match parts from 10 different rearends to get the one you want and mostly good parts. the posi's are usualy burned, and axle bearings often bad. Once I even conned them into selling me a Jag IRS with all suspension at that price. Muahahahah. I dn't see a whole lot of disk rears there, people grab em pretty fast. I if it is the corect width(not sure of the second gen dimention), disc brakes, and has leaf spring pads on the bottom, it is for sure a Camaro Firebird part. Happy hunting Rowan ps. I'd look for under $350 from peop;e parting old cars or full sevice yards.     >From: Curt Doggett <ccdogget@ida.net>   >I'm curious what people have paid for a second gen rear end? Also my >local junk yard has a huge pile of unlableled rear ends. Does anyone >know an easy way to identify the one I'm looking for (2nd Gen w/disc >brakes)? > >Thanks again > >Curt   _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com      
(back) Subject: RE: 69 vert on ebay From: "Mace" <macef@optonline.net> Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 19:27:13 -0400   That car is exactly what I have worked so hard to achieve. Whoever owns = that car deserves a round of applause. I just can't believe that it sold for = only 10,250.00. My winter project is to convert my engine to EFI using the Edelbrock Package. What a beautiful car...Hope the new owner appreciates that car as much as the previous owner.. Mace 69 355 Drop-Top   If you guy's haven't seen the 69 Vert on ebay, it's well worth a look! And all you TPI swappers, will LOVE this car... One nice ride with all the "modern" upgrades you could want!   Just thought I'd pass it on... - Brett          
(back) Subject: Re: E*Bay Hood Tach Note From: "Stuart Langer" <stumann1@mindspring.com> Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 19:02:27 -0500   There is another one for sale, Item #578900474. Is this one real?   http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3D5789004= 74& r=3D0&t=3D0   Stumann      
(back) Subject: Johnny Lightning From: "Mace" <macef@optonline.net> Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 20:51:56 -0400   Does anyone on the list have any extra Johnny Lightning Birds that they = want to sell...I have benn searching high and low and to no avail.... Thanks Mace 69 355 Drop-Top      
(back) Subject: Sway Bar Kits From: "Kelly VanderPloeg" <kvdploeg1@home.com> Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 21:01:49 -0400     Hello Everyone,   Has anyone installed a front or rear sway bar kit on their Firebird? What was your experience? Any preferred suppliers?   I am thinking of installing them on my 69.   Thanks,   Kelly VanderPloeg 1969 Firebird 400 Sport Coupe        
(back) Subject: Re: Rebuilding steering box From: <Studderin@aol.com> Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 21:45:26 EDT   Jeff I haven't rebuilt a steering box. But I got a service manual for my = 67' and it has a large detailed with pics and diagrams chapter(s) on = rebuilding steering boxes, alternator, and starters, stuff not cost effect to service =   anymore. I'm sure a friend, or someone you know locally has ANY GM service book =   from a 60's-70's car. All these books should have it (the GM design didn't =   change much). ` John Costello