First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List RE 455 Year of Manufacture by "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Sway bar Diameter by <N9JCQ@aol.com> Re: bolts by <JGeigel@aol.com> Head knowledge.... by "Lee Gilbreath" <firebirds42@hotmail.com> More hood question's by "Chris Porter" <fxstsb@qwest.net> Fender to Rad Spt. Reinf. Screws by <Framair@aol.com> Re: Sway bar Diameter by <NoPinkTutu@aol.com> RE: Head knowledge.... by "johnta1" <johnta1@worthlink.net> Screws-Not Phillips!! by "Glenn Uettwiller" <birdman@gdi.net> Re: More hood question's by "Glenn Uettwiller" <birdman@gdi.net> Re: Sway Bar Kits by "Glenn Uettwiller" <birdman@gdi.net> Re: P-O-N-T-I-A-C emblem template for 68 firebird by "Ronsoy" <Ronsoy@bellsouth.net> Re: Sway Bar Kits by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Owner Show Pages Updated (4-14-2001) by "Geoff Martin" <Geoff@firstgenfirebird.org> Re: Owner Show Pages Updated (4-14-2001) by "Craig" <coreman@uniserve.com> Re: Screws-Not Phillips!! by <Jimc2002@aol.com> Re: More hood question's by "Daniel" <poncho40@sga.quik.com> Re: Screws-Not Phillips!! by <Framair@aol.com> Need help with Head / timing case bolts for 400 engine by <JGeigel@aol.com> Window Guide Roller by "John Moore" <sirsaber@mcn.net> got the money now need to decide.Which front end and springs? by <BHA676@aol.com> corrolless by <BHA676@aol.com> Re: More hood question's by "Charles Hazelton" <chuckhazelton@telocity.com> Owner Show Pages Updated (4-14-2001) More by "Geoff Martin" <Geoff@firstgenfirebird.org> Re: Window Guide Roller by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Re: More hood question's by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com>
(back) Subject: RE 455 Year of Manufacture From: "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 09:01:03 -0400 Subject: 455 Year of Manufacture From: "Curt Doggett" <ccdogget@ida.net> Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 22:18:48 -0600 What years were 455s made by Pontiac? Thanks Curt Curt: 70-76
(back) Subject: Sway bar Diameter From: <N9JCQ@aol.com> Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 09:52:25 EDT I am getting ready to order the PST front end rebuild kit and they note = that are differences in the front swaybar diameter. I have a stock 350 non- = HO, convertible. What would the stock diameter be? I don't have any calipers = to measure this. Joe Rotman 68 350 Convertible
(back) Subject: Re: bolts From: <JGeigel@aol.com> Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 10:14:09 EDT Larry, No problem. =A0Clip nuts were used on these. =A0Just cut the bolt off and re= move=20 the spring perch. =A0You will see a clip like device that slides in through=20= a=20 slot in the frame. =A0These clips hold the nuts in place. =A0After a while,=20= the=20 bolts rust tight to the nut and when you go to remove the bolt, It breaks th= e=20 nut loose from the clip. =A0 After you cut off the bolt, simply pull the old clip out of the frame rail.=20 =A0The nut and top of the bolt will probably fall off in the frame, but it=20 doesn't matter. =A0You can get new clip nuts at a good parts store or a deal= er.=20 =A0The're about $2 or so each. =A0 Joe Geigel In a message dated 4/13/2001 10:54:11 PM Pacific Daylight Time,=20 lws@nextek.net writes: changing rear springs on 68 coupe,and 1 bolt on each side at front of spring pack bracket is turning,cage nut?I can grind the old ones off,but how to reattach the new ones?floors aren't rusty,is there anyway to fix this without cutting hole in the floor?thanks,Larry
(back) Subject: Head knowledge.... From: "Lee Gilbreath" <firebirds42@hotmail.com> Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 11:00:23 -0400 WELL WELL! It's good to be back to SPRING again isn't it? Wheeeee! Now for = some work on the BIRD! YES! I had the welder out yesterday going over the = job on the convertible and she'll have all new sheet metal in a few weeks = (as fast as I can pay for it to be done of course!) My question is on heads. I bought a 400 out of a 74 Firebird and I have no = clue what sort of heads it has on it nor where to go to find out - and = further what it should have in order to give me the best result. I do know = they have 4X on the center section, so they're obviously 4x heads (brain = surgeon ain't I? :p). Where do I look to know exactly which heads they = are? I purchased a 68 HO Intake Manifold for this engine, and would also like = to know how to decipher which intake is on it now. Why? Because I might = take it off and put it on my 67 Coupe with the 326 which currently has a = 2bbl to increase the performance of her somewhat without having to make = huge changes. Once I've completed the 68 I'll be tearing down the 67, = which is completely original, 70k miles, and while the 68 will be the = "modified" car, the 67 is going back just like she came from the factory. = However, since I'm just using her as a driver at the moment, no sense not = having a little kick there until I'm ready to restore it. I have seen threads about 670 heads, 62 heads, all manner of different = ones. I'd like to have a fairly high performance ride, but not to race. = Any input from you guys would be appreciated! I'll be documenting more of the restoration on the home page as it goes = along. Nothing new to put there as yet but I'll let you know when I've put = the new items up! We'll see you on the road! Lee and Annette 67 Signet Gold on Signet Gold 326 Coupe 68 Alpine Blue on Teal Sprint Convertible - in Restoration http://user.icx.net/~lee4uhere/68bird
(back) Subject: More hood question's From: "Chris Porter" <fxstsb@qwest.net> Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 08:03:30 -0700 I got rid of my 400 hood, and installed a very clean 350 hood ( Thanks Joe ! ). Besides the hood not staying open on it's own.......working on that. I have another question. When I pop the hood open, it only goes up a little. I then have to push down a little, while holding the hood latch release open, to get it to pop up all the way. Is this the way it's supposed to work ? My old hood didn't do this, it just popped up all the way when I released the latch. If this is not correct, how in the world do you adjust the hood latch ? If this is correct, let me know, and I won't take the FORD tool to it :-). Chris `68 350 H.O. Drop-top P.S. Thanks for the reply's on the spring's, I'll let you know how the Pontiac spring's work out.
(back) Subject: Fender to Rad Spt. Reinf. Screws From: <Framair@aol.com> Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 11:11:26 EDT Does anyone have or know of a source for..... Screw (large philips head) (2) req'd per Fender Secures the Fender to the Reinforcement at Radiator Support. There was an individual on this List once who claimed to have a bag full of brand new, identical to the factory screws. I would like to purchase some that are not stripped out. Thanks ! John FRamair@aol.com Semper Fi Ephesians 4:32
(back) Subject: Re: Sway bar Diameter From: <NoPinkTutu@aol.com> Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 12:30:36 EDT Just use an open ended wrench to measure it. = Wayne
(back) Subject: RE: Head knowledge.... From: "johnta1" <johnta1@worthlink.net> Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 14:10:47 -0500 Try my web site. I have head id numbers and intake numbers plus searches for them. John Wallace Wallace Racing Pontiac Power RULES !!! http://www.wallaceracing.com > Subject: Head knowledge.... > > > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > WELL WELL! It's good to be back to SPRING again isn't it? > Wheeeee! Now for some work on the BIRD! YES! I had the welder out > yesterday going over the job on the convertible and she'll have > all new sheet metal in a few weeks (as fast as I can pay for it > to be done of course!) > > My question is on heads. I bought a 400 out of a 74 Firebird and > I have no clue what sort of heads it has on it nor where to go to > find out - and further what it should have in order to give me > the best result. I do know they have 4X on the center section, so > they're obviously 4x heads (brain surgeon ain't I? :p). Where do > I look to know exactly which heads they are? > > I purchased a 68 HO Intake Manifold for this engine, and would > also like to know how to decipher which intake is on it now. Why? > Because I might take it off and put it on my 67 Coupe with the > 326 which currently has a 2bbl to increase the performance of her > somewhat without having to make huge changes. Once I've completed > the 68 I'll be tearing down the 67, which is completely original, > 70k miles, and while the 68 will be the "modified" car, the 67 is > going back just like she came from the factory. However, since > I'm just using her as a driver at the moment, no sense not having > a little kick there until I'm ready to restore it. > > I have seen threads about 670 heads, 62 heads, all manner of > different ones. I'd like to have a fairly high performance ride, > but not to race. Any input from you guys would be appreciated! > > I'll be documenting more of the restoration on the home page as > it goes along. Nothing new to put there as yet but I'll let you > know when I've put the new items up! > > We'll see you on the road! > > > > Lee and Annette > 67 Signet Gold on Signet Gold 326 Coupe > 68 Alpine Blue on Teal Sprint Convertible - in Restoration > http://user.icx.net/~lee4uhere/68bird > > >
(back) Subject: Screws-Not Phillips!! From: "Glenn Uettwiller" <birdman@gdi.net> Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 16:07:52 -0400 John, the reason those screws are always stripped out is because THEY ARE NOT PHILLIPS HEAD!! They are a similar-looking (but very different cut) called "Pozidriv" (registered trademark). A Phillips head screwdriver will fit in, but is likely to round out the screwhead. The other way 'round, meaning a Pozidriv screwdriver in a Phillips screw won't even go in unless you force it, which usually breaks the screwdriver tip. The easiest way to recognize a Pozidriv screw is the 4 scribed lines between the slots. The Pozidriv screwdriver has a raised line between each blade to help identify it as well; magnetic bits will have PZ1,PZ2, PZ3, or PZ4, whatever size they are on them. Look closely! The screws you mention in the sides of the fenders are Pozidriv #4 tip, and so are the ones in the front belt cover of our beloved OHC6 engines. GM has also used Pozidriv for many trim screws in headlamp/taillamp bezels in the early 70's, when the Metric nightmare began in 1975. Pozidriv certainly grips better than Phillips (if you're using the correct tool!), giving the ability to put a little more torque on the fastener. Then came Torx, another deal that provides even MORE torque on screws and such. Such a boon for the professional tool industry, but a devilish problem for the pro technician. There was another 4-slot screw used many years ago call Reed & Prince, again similar to Phillips, but rarely used in the automotive world. I remember them in the Snap-on catalog when I was a dealer. Glenn aka birdman PS I could use some of those screws as well, but I'm sure I'm not alone! Framair@aol.com wrote: > > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > Does anyone have or know of a source for..... > > Screw (large philips head) (2) req'd per Fender > Secures the Fender to the Reinforcement at Radiator Support. > > There was an individual on this List once who claimed to have a bag > full of brand new, identical to the factory screws. > > I would like to purchase some that are not stripped out. > > Thanks ! > > John > FRamair@aol.com > Semper Fi > Ephesians 4:32
(back) Subject: Re: More hood question's From: "Glenn Uettwiller" <birdman@gdi.net> Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 16:14:03 -0400 Chris, when you pull a little harder and faster on the release, it should override that double-latching feature. May need some more lube or an adjustment to the latch or the risr spring, and the stronger hoodhinge springs may help as well. Glenn aka birdman PS Please try to refrain from using the 4-letter F-word here - you could be more subtle and say "Henry's folly". Most of us have a hard enough time with all the Bowtie stuff! Chris Porter wrote: > > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > I got rid of my 400 hood, and installed a very clean 350 > hood ( Thanks Joe ! ). Besides the hood not staying open on > it's own.......working on that. I have another question. > When I pop the hood open, it only goes up a little. I then > have to push down a little, while holding the hood latch > release open, to get it to pop up all the way. Is this the > way it's supposed to work ? My old hood didn't do this, it > just popped up all the way when I released the latch. If > this is not correct, how in the world do you adjust the hood > latch ? If this is correct, let me know, and I won't take > the FORD tool to it :-). > > Chris > `68 350 H.O. Drop-top
(back) Subject: Re: Sway Bar Kits From: "Glenn Uettwiller" <birdman@gdi.net> Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 16:21:29 -0400 Yeah Kelly, I was pretty content on my 69 OHC6 coupe with the Herb Adams kits, and I don't know of anything better for the front. However, Mace replied about a Hotchkiss system; I'll be looking into that. The Herb Adams VSE rear bar doesn't have the Heimjoint links like their front bars do, and they use PolyUrethane bushing in the rear which I barely tolerate - I'd rather have something like a bearing than a hard plastic squeaky bushing! In the mid 70's, I used the Addco bars on my 69 Sprint convertible. The front was a 1" direct replacement for the original, but the rear was a system of clamps and brackets that worked OK, but looked primitive. Glenn aka birdman Kelly VanderPloeg wrote: > > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > > Hello Everyone, > > Has anyone installed a front or rear sway bar kit on their Firebird? = What > was your experience? Any preferred suppliers? > > I am thinking of installing them on my 69. > > Thanks, > > Kelly VanderPloeg > 1969 Firebird 400 Sport Coupe >
(back) Subject: Re: P-O-N-T-I-A-C emblem template for 68 firebird From: "Ronsoy" <Ronsoy@bellsouth.net> Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 17:05:38 -0400 Saw that your needing the template.....I can no longer use my car as a = guide so you will need to get it from Paul and Sarah....my car is = dismanteled...no ETA! RonMan
(back) Subject: Re: Sway Bar Kits From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 14:11:36 -0700 I used a stock rear bar from a 67-78 Nova clone with second en camaro endlinks, but this necessitated creating a custom bracket at the top. it is about as thick as my pinkie, and does not overpower the stock front bar or make the ride harsh, but makes the car feel smaller and lighter. = not ultrahigh performance, but a good upgrade for the money $16 used. I can send you a few pictures if you like(or post if somone has space). a nice feature of this bar is it does not reduce ground clearance. My next suspension adjustments will be to swap the KYBs in back for some softer airshocks, and upgrade to a stiffer front swaybar, as the nose = dives into corners at almost double the recomended speed(yellow sign). The front = seems pretty adequate, then suddenly is overcome by body roll but only at high speeds. Rowan >From: "Kelly VanderPloeg" <kvdploeg1@home.com> >Hello Everyone, > >Has anyone installed a front or rear sway bar kit on their Firebird? What >was your experience? Any preferred suppliers? > >I am thinking of installing them on my 69. > >Thanks, > >Kelly VanderPloeg >1969 Firebird 400 Sport Coupe _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: Owner Show Pages Updated (4-14-2001) From: "Geoff Martin" <Geoff@firstgenfirebird.org> Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 17:21:32 -0400 Subject: Owner Show Pages Updated (4-14-2001) Added some more owners today to the First Generation Firebird Owners' Show Pages (Add yours today.... its FREE): Karina Clark 1968 Forest Green Firebird 400 Coupe (http://FirstGenFirebird.org/show/closeup.mv?CarID=3D158) ------------------- Enjoy - Geoff '68 Mayfair Maize Firebird 350 Convertible (http://FirstGenFirebird.org/show/closeup.mv?CarID=3D46) (Geoff@firstgenfirebird.org) More information about adding your car or link to the owner pages: (http://FirstGenFirebird.org/firebird/owners/info.html) (Make sure to drop the "(" and ")" when using the URLs)
(back) Subject: Re: Owner Show Pages Updated (4-14-2001) From: "Craig" <coreman@uniserve.com> Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 14:51:43 -0700 good to see another local car. Hi from Surrey
(back) Subject: Re: Screws-Not Phillips!! From: <Jimc2002@aol.com> Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 18:38:09 EDT Glenn, Good info. I have halfheartedly attemped to remove those fender screws = and gave up - not having a Phillips that would fit. Now I too know and will = add more tools to my collection. Jim
(back) Subject: Re: More hood question's From: "Daniel" <poncho40@sga.quik.com> Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 16:19:39 -0400 Chris my 400 hood has always been like that pull latch then push down on hood a little and pull latch again and pull up
(back) Subject: Re: Screws-Not Phillips!! From: <Framair@aol.com> Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 19:15:54 EDT >From: birdman@gdi.net (Glenn Uettwiller) >John, the reason those screws are always stripped out is because THEY >ARE NOT PHILLIPS HEAD!! They are a similar-looking (but very different >cut) called "Pozidriv" (registered trademark).... .....Thanks for the lesson in fasteners, bits, tools and brand names !!!!! I only referred to those screws as phillips because at first glance, that is what most people could relate to (in my attempt to describe the screw). I have had success in removing these over the years with a large phillips, = heat and patience. The Pozidrive Bit would obviously provide a better 'bite'. Anyhow, the intent of my request was to hopefully find these screws; the Pozidrive bit I'm sure I can pick up at the local tool store. Thanks for the info, John FRamair@aol.com Semper Fi Ephesians 4:32
(back) Subject: Need help with Head / timing case bolts for 400 engine From: <JGeigel@aol.com> Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 20:36:39 EDT Gang, I desperately need your help. I'm trying to button up my 68 400 engine = and I need help with the head bolts and timing case cover bolts. First, I need = to know which head bolts go where. Of course, it's easy to tell the height difference, but where do the head bolts go that have the threaded studs = out the top???? I know where two of them go. Two hold on the heat riser = shield and one is for the ground wire to the battery. Does the ground wire bolt = go in the second hole from the front on the passenger side head??? Also, = are there any other stud top head bolts that go on the outside of the valve covers? If so, where do they go and what are they used for? Next, I need to know how many bolts hold on the drip shields under the = valve covers. Is it only two, or three? The drip shields have three extensions = for mounting, but I think there are only two bolts that hold these on, is that correct???? Finally, the timing case cover has 3 studs and the rest are bolts. Two of = the studs go to the top of the timing case cover. Where does the third = stud go???? I know that some bolts and studs could be mixed up and it would still = work, but I want it to be correct, so your help is much appreciated. I'll take = any form of communication that works. An email note, or diagram as long = as the information is corrrect for an original 400 equipped bird. Thanks in advance!!! Regards, Joe Geigel
(back) Subject: Window Guide Roller From: "John Moore" <sirsaber@mcn.net> Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 19:07:22 -0600 Does anyone have a roller guide for the rear window that they would sell? = I need one for my 1968.
(back) Subject: got the money now need to decide.Which front end and springs? From: <BHA676@aol.com> Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 22:53:45 EDT Ok Ive budgeted 700 bucks including shipping and misc BS for a brand new front end . Ive looked around and while some kits are a little cheaper = Ive been looking hard at the PST super front end kit. Also I need springs and = havent decided on 2" drops yet but want performance springs. Mine are so tired they look like they drop 2" already. I want to get performance springs and a front sway bar kit. Shocks also. I need to know how to install zerks in the graphite any info on this is needed! I will send away for some kit tuesday so ASAP. brad 67 400 convert
(back) Subject: corrolless From: <BHA676@aol.com> Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 22:54:43 EDT How is this eastwood product? I hear alot about por 15 but nothing about this stuff. brad 67 400 convert
(back) Subject: Re: More hood question's From: "Charles Hazelton" <chuckhazelton@telocity.com> Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 20:22:11 -0700 Same with our 68. Think it must be to ensure the hood doesn't fly up if = the first catch happens to let go. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Daniel" <poncho40@sga.quik.com> To: "First Generation Firebird-L" <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2001 1:19 PM Subject: Re: More hood question's > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > Chris my 400 hood has always been like that pull latch then push > down on hood a little and pull latch again and pull up
(back) Subject: Owner Show Pages Updated (4-14-2001) More From: "Geoff Martin" <Geoff@firstgenfirebird.org> Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 23:44:53 -0400 Subject: Owner Show Pages Updated (4-14-2001) Added some more owners today to the First Generation Firebird Owners' Show Pages: Jon Crow 1967 Blue Firebird Modified Coupe (http://FirstGenFirebird.org/show/closeup.mv?CarID=3D159) ------------------- Enjoy - Geoff '68 Mayfair Maize Firebird 350 Convertible (http://FirstGenFirebird.org/show/closeup.mv?CarID=3D46) (Geoff@firstgenfirebird.org) More information about adding your car or link to the owner pages: (http://FirstGenFirebird.org/firebird/owners/info.html) (Make sure to drop the "(" and ")" when using the URLs)
(back) Subject: Re: Window Guide Roller From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 21:10:05 -0700 >From: "John Moore" <sirsaber@mcn.net> >Does anyone have a roller guide for the rear window that they would sell? = I >need one for my 1968. I have part of driver side and entire passenger window with winder. What exactly do you need? I'd rather not break up the good passenger window. also this is off a '67, so the datestamp on the window might not = be #s correct. Rowan _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: Re: More hood question's From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 21:12:44 -0700 I think we are seeing the difference between 67 and 68 hoodlatches here, 68 having the 'new safety feature' I don't know, maybe somone can confirm this. Rowan _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com