First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List Re: Manuals by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Re: Got it running but....(Tim) by "matt schmid" <schmidmj@hotmail.com> Re: Voltage Regulator Capacitor by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Re: 700r4 in 67 coupe by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Re: More on voltage regulator mounting by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Re: Got it running but.... by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Re: More on voltage regulator mounting by "Ronsoy" <Ronsoy@bellsouth.net> Re: Voltage Reg. mounting by "John Moore" <sirsaber@mcn.net> RE: Got it running but....(Tim) by "Slobird" <marcts@ga.prestige.net> Re: Manuals by "Bob Cisneros" <Bob.Cisneros@Sun.COM> Vol. Reg. GM part # by "Chris Porter" <fxstsb@qwest.net> RE: 700r4 in 67 coupe by "Slobird" <marcts@ga.prestige.net> Cocktail shakers by "Charlie & Rose Huntington" <badgoat@gwi.net> RE: Shocks by "jttrettel" <jttrettel@onemain.com> (no subject) by "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Re: Carb Selection by <Studderin@aol.com> 67 (partscar) FB E-bay MI.area by <Studderin@aol.com> RE: Got it running but....(Tim) by "matt schmid" <schmidmj@hotmail.com> Re: Got it running but... by <Studderin@aol.com> Update by "Dereck Kowalski" <dakowals@mtu.edu> Re: Got it running but... by <Studderin@aol.com>
(back) Subject: Re: Manuals From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 13:13:21 -0700 I like my '66-73 American cars Chilton. I have the Firebird 67-82 and it = is pretty sad,but the old one hs a lot of good stuff. Worth $10 at the used book store. Rowan >From: "Trimpe, Bob" <TrimpeB@rajones.com> ............................................... >John Wern, > >I gotta agree with your take on the quality of the Chilton's manual. I >started my Firebird journey with that book, and I took a few blind alleys = >as >a result. I bought the Pontiac service manual, and its been right every >time. This list seems to be the court of appeals, though! These guys know >the trick that even Pontiac didn't put in the book. > >(One thing I keep the Chilton's around for is the vacuum diagrams) > >Bob Trimpe > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: Re: Got it running but....(Tim) From: "matt schmid" <schmidmj@hotmail.com> Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 20:28:21 Thanks Tim, that will help a lot. I have just a few more questions on that = though. >Set the dial to 0. With the motor running, set the initial timing to >around 10 deg. (Idling and vacuum advance disconnected.) (line up the >timing mark on the balancer with the 0 mark on the timing cover) I don't have an advance dial, but I have a timing light. When you say set the initial timing to around ten degrees, that is with the vacuum advance disconnected correct? Then right after that you say to line up the timing mark on the balancer with the 0 mark on the timing cover. I don't understand, didn't I just set it to 10? >Did you set the float level on the carb? If it is a holley, take of >the sight plug and adjust until fuel trickles out. Then back it off a >bit. Do for both bowls. On this, it is a holley, should the car be running or just on a flat = surface cold?? I will check the plugs and make sure they are all firing however it did = not sound like any were missing. I believe my problem is timing and either mechanical or vacuum advance problems. Hopefully anyway. Would old transmission fluid cause this kind of problem. (I believe it is relatively = new but have not checked properly) What about valve adjustment?? My fuel line has a filter that you can see through a siteglass, the fuel pump = seems to be working well. As I have said before, I am quite a novice working on engines and cars, = I'm still learning basics, so please everyone be patient with my ignorance, = and thanks to everyone for the great help I have received so far!! It is very much appreciated. Matt 68 350 coupe _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: Re: Voltage Regulator Capacitor From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 13:30:14 -0700 Well... I usualy throw thos things away, along with the regulator, but I think I might have saved a few new looking regulators, possibly with caps. = Ill try to dig into storege today. Id think regulators will live longer with some vibreation damping for that little wire across the back. Rowan 684x4 1 wire 68 bird going 1 wire >From: Chris Porter <fxstsb@qwest.net> >......................................................................... > Anybody have an extra voltage regulator capacitor for a >`68 for sale ? On the question regarding mounting the >regulator. I'm ass-u-ming some were rubber mounted, and some >were not ? I know I can get the rubber piece's from GM ( >just got some for my `71 Chev 4 X 4, last year ), but should >I ? Thanks again all ! > > >Chris >`68 350 H.O. Drop-top > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: Re: 700r4 in 67 coupe From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 13:42:24 -0700 Read this; http://www.thegrid.net/thedrivetrainpage/700inst.htm and this; http://home.twcny.rr.com/mcss/drivetrain.html If you don't have a cable out for the speedo(some use an electric sensor) you will need to pull the tailhousnig, and swap the sensor for a gear. Driveshaft will need shortening. If you get a new torque convertor, Chevy S10 v6 has the highest stall of = OE convertors, 600 above Impalla SS. TH400 crossmember should work with modification(move it back,maybe other depenfing on bellhousing adaptor. Be POSITIVE the TV cable mechanism is working right, if you are not sure = go to a good tranny shop. I cannot stess this last enough. I think you will be very pleased when you are done, Rowan >From: "Provost, Marty" <MProvost@LiquidGolf.com> >First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List >......................................................................... >Picked up a 700r4 this weekend that was in a 88 Trans Am! > >I'm looking for any tips, advice, experiences, gotchas, etc. regarding >installing/running this in my 67 coupe with a 455. > >I'd like to add that you guys have been an amazing source of information >and >help. I still have a long way to go before my bird is on the road but = I'd >be much further behind if it wasn't for this list. > >Thanks as always! >-Marty _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: Re: More on voltage regulator mounting From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 13:45:22 -0700 Try automotive paint store. I have a few in Santa Cruz if you can't find em. Rowan >From: "Steve Miller" <sjmiller@us.ibm.com> > >Howdy, > My '68 Sprint used rubber standoff mounts to bolt down the voltage >regulator. I guess the rubber standoffs were to reduce vibration to the >regulator. When I pulled my radiator support for 'rust management' = (along >with the rest of the front end) the nuts spun out of the standoffs and >ruined them. Anybody know of sources for replacements? Got a clue as = to >the formal name for them? > >Thanks! >Steve > >"Breaking this seal implies that you have read this manual, >and are therefore obligated to provide support to anyone >who doesn't want to read this manual." - Illiad _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: Re: Got it running but.... From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 14:06:14 -0700 >From: "matt schmid" <schmidmj@hotmail.com> >> >>Congrats! >>Dwell set @ 30-32 degrees? Disregard this if you have HEI distributor(HEI cannot use the original ignition wire, and MUST have 12 volts). If you have points distributor, remove the cap, and you will see just = inside the little trapdoor in the cap, an allen adjuster. Find the allen wrench = to fit, rotate the engine till the rubbing block on the points is on the high = point of a distributor cam lobe, and use a feeler guage to adjust the = point gap to *looks in the book* 0.019 inches. an easier and more acurate method is to borow or buy a 'dwell meter' or a digital multimeter with a tach and dwell built in(50-100$ and easily worth it if you will be doing a lot of car electrical work), hook the meter to coil negative and ground, then with the engine idling, reach the allen in through the trap door, and slowly adjust the screw = untill the guage reads 30 degrees. shorting the allen will cause the engine to stall. going to far will cause the engine to stall. be prepared to make this adjustment every few months(depending on milage) untill you buy an HEI distributor. Keep in mind; Changing the dwell afects the timing, so dwell should be set = before timing. dwell is affected by rubbing block wear, so timing and = dwell are affected by time. This is pretty much the oriigin of the tune up, now = all you get for a tune up on a new car is spark plugs checkesd or = installed at $10 each! > > Not sure how to do that... > >>fuel filter new? > It was in good condition... > >>choke not stuck shut? > manual choke, wide open > >>If it took a long time to prime the carb, fuel pump output could be low. > maybe, don't know, could it be the carb is not tuned properly, fuel >bowl >not set right, or running too lean, what would take so much power away? > >>Advance mechanism move smoothly? > Not sure about the advance mechanism, that is one question I had, = would > >it run well with no load if the advance mechanism isn't working properly, >and how do I check the advance? Stuck mostly advance it would idle hig and rev pretty well no load, but backfire and deisel on shutdown. >>could it be the car just wsn't up to temperature yet? > Car was hot, ran it for 10 or so minutes before taking her on the >street. > >>If you don't use the emission stuff, you typicaly get poor driveability >>cold. >>anyway, ther are a few things to try. >>Rowan >> >What else could it be?? Anything in the transmission (I hope not) >riskingsounding totally clueless...Does the transmission shift only by = >the >vacuummodulator or is it supposed to have linkages on the carb?? >Turbo 350 should have a cable to the carb >Matt >68 350 coupe > > > >>>Hey gang, I finally got my car started yesterday. It took awhile to get >>>the >>>timing right (well maybe right) and the fuel lines full and the actual >>>wiring correct but I think it went pretty good. I got it running and it >>>sounded good when it was in park, I had good throttle response and it >>>sounded like it was sucking the air in real well (there was one valve >that >>>sounded like it might need adjustment). The problem was, once I put it >in >>>drive and drove around the block, I had no power whatsoever and the >>>throttle >>>response went to crap. Does anyone have any idea what the problem could >>>be? >>>I'm spent, with my limited knowledge I can't seem to figure it out? The >>>car >>>is an automatic, and I just put a new Holley 4bbl on it. Thanks. >>> >>>Matt _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: Re: More on voltage regulator mounting From: "Ronsoy" <Ronsoy@bellsouth.net> Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 17:48:37 -0400 Try your local motorcycle(harley) shop they should have them the regulator was the same for harley. RonMan ----- Original Message ----- From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> To: <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> Sent: Monday, April 16, 2001 4:45 PM Subject: Re: More on voltage regulator mounting > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > > Try automotive paint store. > I have a few in Santa Cruz if you can't find em. > Rowan > > >From: "Steve Miller" <sjmiller@us.ibm.com> > > > > >Howdy, > > My '68 Sprint used rubber standoff mounts to bolt down the voltage > >regulator. I guess the rubber standoffs were to reduce vibration to = the > >regulator. When I pulled my radiator support for 'rust management' (along > >with the rest of the front end) the nuts spun out of the standoffs and > >ruined them. Anybody know of sources for replacements? Got a clue = as to > >the formal name for them? > > > >Thanks! > >Steve > > > >"Breaking this seal implies that you have read this manual, > >and are therefore obligated to provide support to anyone > >who doesn't want to read this manual." - Illiad > > _________________________________________________________________
(back) Subject: Re: Voltage Reg. mounting From: "John Moore" <sirsaber@mcn.net> Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 15:48:07 -0600 Awso......That's why mine had a ground wire. Learn something new everyday. > = ......................................................................... > > I've seen a lot with a short wire that loops around, and grounds via one of > the mounting screws. > Rowan > > >From: "John Moore" <sirsaber@mcn.net> > >Metal to metal. It has to ground. > > > > > > = >......................................................................... > > > Is the voltage regulator supposed to be mounted directly > > > to the core support, or are they supposed to have the > > > collapsible rubber bushing's between them ?
(back) Subject: RE: Got it running but....(Tim) From: "Slobird" <marcts@ga.prestige.net> Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 20:04:39 -0400 Matt, If you want to test your total advance, you either have to make a mark on the balancer at the point you want to set it at, or have a dial timing light. With a normal light and no 38 -32 degree mark on the balancer, you can only set initial. To check total, you rev the engine to where the = total should be all in 3000 for example, and use the dial on a dial timing light to find the total. You shine the light on the 0 timing mark, adjust the dial to where the marks line up, and the dial will show your total. Total timing is a combination of mechanical advance, initial, and vacuum advance. Vacuum advance will be 0 at full throttle, and so you should disconnect it while checking. Vacuum can also screw up your initial reading, so disconnect it when checking the initial as well. When you check the float level, you have to run the engine so you have = fuel pressure. When the gas starts to run out back it off a bit. Check the holley website for this info. You should read their description about how = a carb works. It is simple, and won't take long for you to understand. First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List .......................................................................... Thanks Tim, that will help a lot. I have just a few more questions on that though. >Set the dial to 0. With the motor running, set the initial timing to >around 10 deg. (Idling and vacuum advance disconnected.) (line up the >timing mark on the balancer with the 0 mark on the timing cover) I don't have an advance dial, but I have a timing light. When you say set the initial timing to around ten degrees, that is with the vacuum advance disconnected correct? Then right after that you say to line up the timing mark on the balancer with the 0 mark on the timing cover. I don't understand, didn't I just set it to 10? >Did you set the float level on the carb? If it is a holley, take of >the sight plug and adjust until fuel trickles out. Then back it off a >bit. Do for both bowls. On this, it is a holley, should the car be running or just on a flat = surface cold?? I will check the plugs and make sure they are all firing however it did = not sound like any were missing. I believe my problem is timing and either mechanical or vacuum advance problems. Hopefully anyway. Would old transmission fluid cause this kind of problem. (I believe it is relatively new but have not checked properly) What about valve adjustment?? My fuel line has a filter that you can see through a siteglass, the fuel pump = seems to be working well. As I have said before, I am quite a novice working on engines and cars, = I'm still learning basics, so please everyone be patient with my ignorance, = and thanks to everyone for the great help I have received so far!! It is very much appreciated. Matt 68 350 coupe Hi
(back) Subject: Re: Manuals From: "Bob Cisneros" <Bob.Cisneros@Sun.COM> Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 17:13:47 -0700 (PDT) Matt Schmid writes: >Where do I get the Pontiac service manual? Aside from ebay, as Michael Howell mentions, you can order one from any of the mail order suppliers such as Year One, Classic Industries, Performance Years, and AMES. Check their prices even if you buy elsewhere in order to get an idea of an average price. Paying much over $35.00 for the '68 manual is too much. Also, a list member had arranged a group buy, and may have some '68 books left over. I bought mine at a swap meet. Paid $25. -BoB San Jose, CA 1968 convertible bob.cisneros@Sun.COM
(back) Subject: Vol. Reg. GM part # From: "Chris Porter" <fxstsb@qwest.net> Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 17:38:14 -0700 Someone asked about where to get the bushing's earlier. I just ordered 3 new one's from GM, part # 3876130. That is the # for the rubber part's only. I didn't get the screw part #'s. Good luck. Chris `68 350 H.O. Drop-top
(back) Subject: RE: 700r4 in 67 coupe From: "Slobird" <marcts@ga.prestige.net> Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 20:50:32 -0400 I am not sure but I don't think the 700r4 will bolt in without an adapter, since it has a chevy bellhousing. Therefore most go for the 200r4 Tim
(back) Subject: Cocktail shakers From: "Charlie & Rose Huntington" <badgoat@gwi.net> Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 21:10:42 -0400 I just made a page of pics of 67-68 Cocktail Shakers. I need a couple = pics of 68 fronts to complete this if anyone has them I'd appreciate it. To = see them so far go to my home page - then to the "tech info" Click on the cocktail shakers to see the different styles. Check out www.badgoat.net
(back) Subject: RE: Shocks From: "jttrettel" <jttrettel@onemain.com> Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 22:24:03 -0400 Mace, I don't have a suggestion for what shock to use, but I thought that I = would ask if you still had those Comp. Engineering shocks and if so, would you = be looking to unload them to someone (me?). Justin 69 400 Coupe
(back) Subject: From: "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 22:35:03 -0400 At 03:59 PM 4/16/01 -0400, you wrote: >Anybody know of sources for replacements? Got a clue as to >the formal name for them? > >Thanks! >Steve Auveco they are well nuts. Gary
(back) Subject: Re: Carb Selection From: <Studderin@aol.com> Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 23:03:06 EDT Just wanted to let you guys know that there are 2 styles of Edlebrock carbs. The Q-jet style, 1900s series; called a "performer" The 1400s series are an AFB style; also called "performer" by Edlebrock. Noticed people referring that they suggest an Edlebrock carb. Didn't want = are buddy Jim Miller to get the wrong one.
(back) Subject: 67 (partscar) FB E-bay MI.area From: <Studderin@aol.com> Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 23:12:01 EDT http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3D579958191 It even has one of those "BIG BLOCK" 400's John Costello
(back) Subject: RE: Got it running but....(Tim) From: "matt schmid" <schmidmj@hotmail.com> Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 03:46:29 Thanks a bunch, I think I'm beginning to understand this a little more. I read a bit on the carb when I had time, and I think one of my problems is that a vacuum fitting I wasn't using wasn't plugged. I'm going to work on = it tomorrow night, I'll let you all know how it turned out. Just delete a message from me if the subject is the same as this one if you're not interested. It won't hurt my feelings. Matt 68 350 coupe _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: Re: Got it running but... From: <Studderin@aol.com> Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 00:07:48 EDT << Did you set the float level on the carb? If it is a holley, take of >the sight plug and adjust until fuel trickles out. Then back it off a >bit. Do for both bowls. On this, it is a holley, should the car be running or just on a flat = surface cold?? >> Matt The car should be running and on a flat surface. But stuff some rags under the fuel bowl(s) and on the manifold (be careful not bend the accelerator pump arm). Be careful when you are removing the fuel level = plugs, have someone stand in the opened driverside door area to shut of the car. = If the float is set to high gas may come pouring out the hole! It's no fun when holley's factory setting is way to high. And gas = pours out pushing the plug off the screwdriver and under the manifold. And you (panicking not thinking to choke the carb to stall it) run around your car = to try to open the driver door with the screwdriver still in your hand = knowing your car will start on fire in . 04 sec. Do you have a HEI or points dist.? When you go to adjust the timing by ear or for Max. Rpm's. Plug the other = end of the vacuum advance hose after you disconnect it to stop that vacum = leak. Make sure after you loosen up the dist. hold down clamp bolt. That you = snug it back up quite a bit so its a little hard to twist the cap. This is very = import. And don't do any quick high rev's with the motor to much with the dist. loose; if at all. Whiteout or nailpolish is helpful to paint the advance #'s on the timing cover and the slot on the balancer, makes it = easier to read them. And with the motor idling put your hands over the choke tower or the = primary side of the carb. If the motor stalls no vacuum leaks, if the Rpm's = increases you have a vacuum leak. Keep us posted on what else you notice or how one change affects other = problems. John Costello
(back) Subject: Update From: "Dereck Kowalski" <dakowals@mtu.edu> Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 00:13:56 -0700 I put up some new pics of the project. Let me know what you think! http://stuweb.ee.mtu.edu/~dakowals/ Dereck
(back) Subject: Re: Got it running but... From: <Studderin@aol.com> Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 00:17:42 EDT Matt I just read your first post and Think your plugs are folded, What = model and size is the "new" holley? Is used and already setup for some one = else's car? Dose your exhaust smell like a 2 stroke weedwacker? Tell us more on = your motor (size) and how stock or not stock it is. John Costello