First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List Fw: List Server: Re: Shock mounting plates by "Bad Acid" <bad-acid@pacbell.net> Re: New Source for Firebird Products by "Erich Wagner" <ewagner@advancepac.com> Re: factory guages by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Re: electrical problem by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> New Topic-Coolest color combos for 2001 by "Ken Reimer" <kreimer@uniserve.com> Subframe (re)alignment? by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Re: Turn signal switch by "Michael Howell" <fishgod@iglou.com> Re: Power Steering Question by <Jimc2002@aol.com> Re: electrical problem by "Michael Howell" <fishgod@iglou.com> A/C Brackets by "Patrick W. Thompson" <patrickt@compucominc.com> Stripping Paint by "Ronsoy" <Ronsoy@bellsouth.net> Re: Stripping Paint by <PStonebrak@aol.com> Re: Stripping Paint by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Re: Power Steering Question by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Re: Subframe (re)alignment? by "Doug" <dcharnley@mediaone.net> Re: electrical problem by "Niklas Ridell" <vcc2.nridell@memo.volvo.se> Re: Turn signal switch by "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> RE PS pump by "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Re: WANTED: 69 Convertible by "John Wern" <jwern@charter.net>
(back) Subject: Fw: List Server: Re: Shock mounting plates From: "Bad Acid" <bad-acid@pacbell.net> Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 18:36:42 -0700 > > Bob & Joe, > > Thanks for the info. My buddy Marc and I are planning to install new > Performance Suspension bushings & the plates next weekend. We'll = probably > have some square tubing on hand, just in case we have to fabricate a > plate. > We could always just clean up the remains of the traction bars. The = offset > shocks would be nice, as this would help control wrap up. I'm still = pretty > apprehensive about it, especially since the 68 upper mounts are offset. > I'll > snap some photo's so you can see what we do. > > Lance > 67 400 Coupe
(back) Subject: Re: New Source for Firebird Products From: "Erich Wagner" <ewagner@advancepac.com> Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 21:41:08 -0400 Roy, Thanks for the tip. I looked them up on the web: www.npdlink.com/ Erich Wagner '67 Mayfair Maize 326 Convert ewagner@advancepac.com or honus@fuse.net > = ......................................................................... > Just to let you guys know... Nation Parts Depot just came out with their > Firebird line. I just recieved their catalog and it looks pretty good. I've > purchased many Camaro parts from them in the past. Many of which I've = used > on my Firebirds. They don't carry as many things as other vendors but = what > they have is a pretty good start. Things I didn't find in their caralog: 69 > Firebird fenders or rear valence panel, ram air panels. > > If you want a catalog, their toll free number is: 1-800-847-7595 > > Roy
(back) Subject: Re: factory guages From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 19:45:58 -0700 have a look at your wiring(its a brown wire).because that is easier than dropping the tank. there isn't much for the float to hang on. Does the guage read half wieth a half tank? If the sender is the problem, you are lucky because it is easier to drop = the tank of a Firebird than about any other car. suggestion b) drive on rough roads for a while, it night start working again. Rowan >From: Craig <coreman@uniserve.com> >my fuel guage just started giving me incorrect reading. When i filled >the tank it only goes to 1/2. Where should i start looking for the >problem. I think the float in the tank my be hanging up. Any hints? >Craig _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: Re: electrical problem From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 19:51:33 -0700 Corrosion of the fusebox leads to all kind of dysfunction... if the fuse sockets are rusted, try to clean them a bit. If they are real = rusty they will break easily. My '68 pickup takes a WD40ing of the = fusebox about twice a winter to keep the lights happening. just a thought Rowan >From: "matt schmid" <schmidmj@hotmail.com> >Ok, I was just over at my parents house to pick some stuff up and I >couldn't >help but mess with the bird a little bit while I was there. Because I had = a >theory during the week. I went down to the garage, checked the battery = and >it was still ok, then I mashed the breaks to see what would happen. >Nothing, >no lights came on. So to me this says there's a fuse problem, what does = it >tell you guys. I'm planning on just going and replacing all the fuses, >since >most of them are all coroded and nasty anyway. Does this seem like a good >plan? I believe the problem was when I hooked the lights back up, since a >few of them were bad, it shorted a circuit or circuits or blew some = fuses, >so I'm just going to leave the lights unplugged until I get all new ones. > >Matt >68 350 coupe >clemson, SC > > > >>From: Michael Howell <fishgod@iglou.com> >>Reply-To: "First Generation Firebird-L" = <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> >>To: "First Generation Firebird-L" <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> >>Subject: Re: electrical problem >>Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 16:44:02 -0400 >> >>First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List >>.........................................................................= >>Matt- >> I did have a similar problem on my 63 Grand Prix. I disconnected the >>battery and used a multimeter (set to either resistance or conductivity >>test) and checked to see if any of the terminals on the fuse block had 0 >>resistance (or close) with a ground. I was able to figure out which >>circuit had the problem, then traced it to where the short was by >>selectively unhooking sections of that harness. It turned out some = doofus >>had taken out the license plate light and left a bare wire hanging = there, >>it was shorting on the bumper. My problems were not as serious as yours >>since it did not effect ignition, but maybe that will help you trace = it... >>good luck! >> >>Mike >>68 350 Coupe >> >>> Has anyone ever had a similar problem, and if so what did you do? >> >> _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: New Topic-Coolest color combos for 2001 From: "Ken Reimer" <kreimer@uniserve.com> Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 19:53:47 -0700 Hey everybody, I'm having a hard time choosing the color scheme for my new ride. It's a 1967 Firebird 326 hardtop, that's going to be restored from the ground up, but I need to visualize how it's going to look in order to increase my motivation. The car is not going to be equipped exactly as built, so I don't care about originality other than the car looking stock inside and out. The original colors were Cameo White body color, Ivory White vinyl roof and Parchment white interior. Any and all opinions will be taken into consideration. Thanks in advance. Regards, Ken Reimer
(back) Subject: Subframe (re)alignment? From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 19:56:49 -0700 Tomorow I will be removing my subframe for sandblast and paint. after that, weld the pickaxe hole in my oil pan, apply some duplicolor 227 = and put her back on the road again. I am wondering if anyone has tips or strategy to insure I get the subframe = on straight. I don't know that it was perfect before, and I will be using = new bushings all around, so it won't sit like it did before anyway. thanks in advance Rowan _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: Re: Turn signal switch From: "Michael Howell" <fishgod@iglou.com> Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 23:07:45 -0400 Thanks for the input Brady - Based on a combination of everyone's recommendations I think I will take a look at it myself "one of these weekends" and see what exactly is wrong with it. I was getting ready to order some parts and was going to throw that in but didn't know what to expect. I think I'll wait and see if I can adjust it or maybe replace = just a spring. I'll let you all know what I find when the time comes. 'Preshadit! Mike At 01:33 PM 4/26/2001 -0700, you wrote: >First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List >......................................................................... >Mike, > >I replaced the switch on my car and found it very easy. I used no manual >and had no practice or advice. However, I did have one problem. The >"service replacement" Delco part that I bought was grossly inferior to = the >original part. The original switch had a white backing plate with a >metallic cam that provides the 'click' feel of actuating the turn lever. >This design had a cam loop that goes all the way around the steering = shaft. >The replacement was orange plastic, with a plastic catch that caused a >'snap' feel when actuating the lever. This was the same feel I = remembered >from a friend's 1989 Cavalier some time back, and every time you signal a >turn it felt like you were breaking something internally. A small = (cheap) >switch on the replacement sat only on one side of the steering shaft. = Turns >out my problem was the wiring of the connector. I junked the replacement >switch and grafted its connector onto the original switch assembly. I = would >NEVER put one of those orange plastic Delco replacements on a nice = classic >Firebird. > >Also, just because your switch doesn't cancel doesn't mean it needs >replacement. It may have worn down some and now will not quite cancel, = but >the alignment of the internal gear may just need to be adjusted, as in = the >steering wheel may be centered straight with the alignment but not with = the >internal cam for cancellation. I'm afraid I do not recall exactly how = the >assembly fit together, but I'm under the impression that this is = adjustable. >I do know that you could pull off the steering wheel and replace it one >tooth counterclockwise (or the opposite). Then you could offset this by >adjusting both side tie rods during your next alignment to re-center the >wheel. If you cannot get it so that both sides (left turn, right turn) >cancel correctly, the switch should be replaced. > >Brady Esch >1968 Convertible 400
(back) Subject: Re: Power Steering Question From: <Jimc2002@aol.com> Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 23:07:46 EDT In a message dated 4/26/01 9:52:35 PM Central Daylight Time, ewagner@advancepac.com writes: << Erich >> Erich, I sent an Adobe pdf file directly to your email address. A page from the = '75 Pontiac Service Manual when they had diagnostic info with the service = stuff. The checklist of problems to check are probably about the same even if the = technology move up 6-7 years. Jim 68 400HO Conv
(back) Subject: Re: electrical problem From: "Michael Howell" <fishgod@iglou.com> Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 23:16:45 -0400 Matt- I tend to agree with you on the fuse problem. Probably a good idea to go ahead and replace them if they are corroded. If the fuse = block is corroded you should attempt to clean it as well to eliminate future/other problems. If it's really bad you might consider using a Dremel type tool with a wire brush attachment to clean the terminals. = just be sure to disconnect the battery! haha. As far as the lights go, I = think I would just unplug the actual bulbs and start testing the circuits. I'd say there is something wrong in that wiring because someone had unhooked that particular circuit in the past.. let us know what you find. Mike At 11:37 PM 4/26/2001 +0000, you wrote: >First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List >......................................................................... >Ok, I was just over at my parents house to pick some stuff up and I >couldn't help but mess with the bird a little bit while I was there. >Because I had a theory during the week. I went down to the garage, = checked >the battery and it was still ok, then I mashed the breaks to see what >would happen. Nothing, no lights came on. So to me this says there's a >fuse problem, what does it tell you guys. I'm planning on just going and >replacing all the fuses, since most of them are all coroded and nasty >anyway. Does this seem like a good plan? I believe the problem was when I = >hooked the lights back up, since a few of them were bad, it shorted a >circuit or circuits or blew some fuses, so I'm just going to leave the >lights unplugged until I get all new ones.
(back) Subject: A/C Brackets From: "Patrick W. Thompson" <patrickt@compucominc.com> Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 20:33:17 -0700 Summer is coming and I am looking for a set of A/C brackets for the car. Anyone know of a good source or have a set laying around collecting dust that you want to sell please let me know. Thanks. Patrick 69 400 conv.
(back) Subject: Stripping Paint From: "Ronsoy" <Ronsoy@bellsouth.net> Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 23:38:52 -0400 Doing my wife's mustang first.....(frown) And had to strip it wit paint stripper first 11 countem 11 paint coats......Took about three hours to = =3D do the door with Da and a box (25) of 80 grit.....TQried the sandblaster =3D all day..........Finally took the stripper brushed it on waited 10 minutes =3D and stay out of the sun it makes it dry to fast(stripper) and bought a =3D quality painters helper(tool for painters has blade at one end and is wide....Sharpned the tool and went to work cut the time into a =3D third...all paint came off in one sheet thank good for corner cutting painters! RonMan
(back) Subject: Re: Stripping Paint From: <PStonebrak@aol.com> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 01:36:39 EDT Marty, I rented a soda blaster. It was very convenient. No masking. It = will not harm chrome or glass.Pete
(back) Subject: Re: Stripping Paint From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 23:35:03 -0700 those of you on the chemical strip path, apply a liberal amount of = stripper, then cover the part in saran wrap or visqueen (painters plastic) You will = have better results and use 1/3 as much product due to reduced = evaporation. Rowan >From: "Ronsoy" <Ronsoy@bellsouth.net> >First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List >......................................................................... >Doing my wife's mustang first.....(frown) And had to strip it wit paint >stripper first 11 countem 11 paint coats......Took about three hours to = =3D >do >the door with Da and a box (25) of 80 grit.....TQried the sandblaster =3D >all >day..........Finally took the stripper brushed it on waited 10 minutes = =3D >and >stay out of the sun it makes it dry to fast(stripper) and bought a =3D >quality >painters helper(tool for painters has blade at one end and is >wide....Sharpned the tool and went to work cut the time into a =3D >third...all >paint came off in one sheet thank good for corner cutting painters! > >RonMan > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: Re: Power Steering Question From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 23:44:00 -0700 You might try: raise the front of the car off the ground, and with the engine idling, = steer lock to lock 30 or 40 times. be safe, they say mever run your car on a jack.... Rowan >From: Erich Wagner <ewagner@advancepac.com>(by way of Geoff Martin, > >First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List >......................................................................... >Now that I have my Firebird running and moving (carb & tranny fixed) I >have >discovered that the power steering does not work. > >Before I pull off the power steering pump and replace it I wanted to know >if >there is any way to verify that this is my problem or troubleshoot the >system. I don't have any grinding or other symptoms that would indicate = a >problem in the column it simply is very hard to steer, as if I didn't = have >power steering. > >Anybody have any thoughts or suggestions? I checked the FAQs etc. and >didn't see anything that related to this situation. > >Thanks for your help! > >Erich Wagner >'67 Firebird 326 Convertible >e-mail: ewagner@advancepac.com or honus@fuse.net _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: Re: Subframe (re)alignment? From: "Doug" <dcharnley@mediaone.net> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 04:31:41 -0400 I just aligned my subframe last weekend. If you have the shop manual, = there show the alignment holes that are used. On the front subframe next to the front body bushing there is a tab with a small alignment hole in it. One the rear subframe right behind the front mount of the leaf spring, = there is another small round hole. With a tape measure, the distance between the center of the = two holes measuring from opposite sides should be 75 7/8 inches. So measure = from the front right side to the rear left side it is 75 7/8 and then do the = same from the left front to the rear right measure 75 7/8. I had to loosen the four body bushing bolts and slightly pull the frame to ensure the alignment measurements were equal on both sides. Once aligned, tighten the subframe bolts to 75-95 ft lbs. Doug x1r1 x wrote: > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > Tomorow I will be removing my subframe for sandblast and paint. > after that, weld the pickaxe hole in my oil pan, apply some duplicolor = 227 > and put her back on the road again. > I am wondering if anyone has tips or strategy to insure I get the = subframe > on straight. I don't know that it was perfect before, and I will be = using > new bushings all around, so it won't sit like it did before anyway. > thanks in advance > Rowan > >
(back) Subject: Re: electrical problem From: "Niklas Ridell" <vcc2.nridell@memo.volvo.se> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 10:49:01 +0200 I remember an old Vw-bus I worked on. Lots and lots of strange electrical problems. I took the fuse box out and gave it a light sand blast. Worked like a charm afterwards. /Niklas schmidmj@hotmail.com wrote: > Ok, I was just over at my parents house to pick some stuff up and I = couldn't > help but mess with the bird a little bit while I was there. Because I = had a > theory during the week. I went down to the garage, checked the battery = and > it was still ok, then I mashed the breaks to see what would happen. = Nothing, > no lights came on. So to me this says there's a fuse problem, what does = it > tell you guys. I'm planning on just going and replacing all the fuses, = since > most of them are all coroded and nasty anyway. Does this seem like a = good > plan? I believe the problem was when I hooked the lights back up, since = a > few of them were bad, it shorted a circuit or circuits or blew some = fuses, > so I'm just going to leave the lights unplugged until I get all new = ones. > > Matt > 68 350 coupe > clemson, SC
(back) Subject: Re: Turn signal switch From: "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 06:11:46 -0400 Subject: Re: Turn signal switch From: "Brady Esch" <besch@cardeon.com> Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 13:33:28 -0700 Mike, I replaced the switch on my car and found it very easy. I used no manual and had no practice or advice. However, I did have one problem. The "service replacement" Delco part that I bought was grossly inferior to the original part. The original switch had a white backing plate with a metallic cam that provides the 'click' feel of actuating the turn lever. This design had a cam loop that goes all the way around the steering = shaft. The replacement was orange plastic, with a plastic catch that caused a 'snap' feel when actuating the lever. This was the same feel I remembered from a friend's 1989 Cavalier some time back, and every time you signal a turn it felt like you were breaking something internally. A small (cheap) switch on the replacement sat only on one side of the steering shaft. = Turns out my problem was the wiring of the connector. I junked the replacement switch and grafted its connector onto the original switch assembly. I = would NEVER put one of those orange plastic Delco replacements on a nice classic Firebird. Also, just because your switch doesn't cancel doesn't mean it needs replacement. It may have worn down some and now will not quite cancel, = but the alignment of the internal gear may just need to be adjusted, as in the steering wheel may be centered straight with the alignment but not with = the internal cam for cancellation. I'm afraid I do not recall exactly how the assembly fit together, but I'm under the impression that this is = adjustable. I do know that you could pull off the steering wheel and replace it one tooth counterclockwise (or the opposite). Then you could offset this by adjusting both side tie rods during your next alignment to re-center the wheel. If you cannot get it so that both sides (left turn, right turn) cancel correctly, the switch should be replaced. Brady Esch 1968 Convertible 400 Brad Ive got several replacement Delco switches here that are of same quality as originals no orange plastic in them. I ll dig one up and get part#. They have the later style flat connector(which is better for installation anyway.) And they have the flat (69) to half moon(67-8) connector adapter pigtail. Gary
(back) Subject: RE PS pump From: "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 06:15:23 -0400 Subject: Re: Power Steering Question From: "Erich Wagner" <ewagner@advancepac.com> Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 21:18:46 -0400 > Is there fluid in the reservoir? Yes > > Is the belt tight? Yes > > Is the pump turning (not seized)? I don't know, the pulley is = turning. Does this mean that the pump is turning? > > Does it "moan" or make any other noises when you turn the wheel? No Hugo, thanks for the checklist. Any suggestions? Erich Erich, check the relief vavle which is in pump behind the high pressure = hose. you will lose all fluid so use a rag to catch. It may be broken or stuck open. Gary
(back) Subject: Re: WANTED: 69 Convertible From: "John Wern" <jwern@charter.net> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 08:08:29 -0400 There's a 69 white convertable 400 - 400 car w/ac power steering and power brakes up the street from my house. Well, it was yesterday - I'm sure it still is now. I stoped and looked. They're asking 15k for it. Want the = #? John -----Original Message----- From: Duane Bender <dbender@dotcomify.com> To: Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> Date: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 6:53 PM Subject: WANTED: 69 Convertible >First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List >......................................................................... >Hello, > >Looking for a 69 Firebird convertible 'shell': > > - prefer southern car (i.e. mostly rust-free body) > - drivetrain not important / not required > - interior not too important, prefer ok cond (black) > >Anybody got one/know of one? :) > >-Duane