First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List 69 rear windows by <Metthem@aol.com> Stripping... by "Brett Luikkonen" <brett@cisdirect.com> RE: Firebird-L Digest #1880 by "Jason Rogers" <jason.rogers@york.com> Re: Power Steering Question by "Landis Rogers" <rogers_landis@hotmail.com> RE: Gas price by "A Jason Maynard" <ajasonm@one.net.au> electrical question by "Landis Rogers" <rogers_landis@hotmail.com> 67 Part search... by "Brett Luikkonen" <brett@cisdirect.com> Re: factory guages by "Lee" <pyre400@yahoo.com> Re: Gas Prices by "Lee" <pyre400@yahoo.com> Re: Stripping Paint by "Brady Esch" <besch@cardeon.com> Re: Gas Prices by "matt schmid" <schmidmj@hotmail.com> Re: Subframe (re)alignment? by <JGeigel@aol.com> Re: Gas Prices by <NoPinkTutu@aol.com> Re: factory guages by "Craig" <coreman@uniserve.com> Subframe (re)alignment? by "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Re: factory guages by "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Re: Gas Prices by <Jimc2002@aol.com> Re: Subframe (re)alignment? by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Re: Subframe (re)alignment? by "Kevin Young" <kyoung@sagelink.net> Re: Stripping Paint by <NoPinkTutu@aol.com> Re: electrical question by "Bob Cisneros" <Bob.Cisneros@Sun.COM> RE: Gas price (new mexico) by "danny" <dannyboylll@qwest.net> Re: Stripping Paint by <PStonebrak@aol.com> Hot? Yea it's hot, ok? not ok? by "John Wern" <jwern@charter.net>
(back) Subject: 69 rear windows From: <Metthem@aol.com> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 09:15:45 EDT You guys may remember a while back I asked about my rear manual windows = not going up or down without physical strength. Well, I tried a new lower = roller from Ames; no help. I ordered the roller guide assemblies from classic; = on there way as I type. I somehow managed to get the old ones off the glass = and glass outta the car. (very happy with myself) Now I am thinking about how = the heck to get them back in and together. I checked the archives and = couldn't find anything about removal or replacement of the rear manual windows, although I did find some humorous cigarette butt and other butts out the window stories. Could someone please guide me through this? I bet someone is going to tell me to look in my body manual they told me = to get which I still don't have. Thanks in Advance, Gary
(back) Subject: Stripping... From: "Brett Luikkonen" <brett@cisdirect.com> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 06:53:34 -0500 Well, I just started stripping my bird. Looks like 3 different paint = jobs, some with primer, some without...ugh. Are there any tips/tricks or is this a nasty job any way you look at it? = ;) Thanks -Marty 67 455 Coupe Marty, there are a few ways to go, Chemical, mechanical, manual being the basics... Chemical is very messy and if you have kids or animals... not a great combination. Mechanical is usually best weather it's getting it blasted or air/electric sanders. Manual... well good old elbow grease, sanding/wet/dry. I usually use Disc Air sanders, and hand wet sanding with the best results. Either way you go... just remember to work ONE panel at a time. Work it until you have it done, then move onto the next. A old bodymans rule of thumb. Trust me, you'll get through it in no time if you do it this way. if you do some on this panel, that door this spot etc... it will take you forever! Good luck and remember one step at a time. - Brett
(back) Subject: RE: Firebird-L Digest #1880 From: "Jason Rogers" <jason.rogers@york.com> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 11:28:50 -0400 Ken, check out this link for lots of pics for inspiration (and wallpaper). http://www.0rdernet.com/Mean_Pontiac/
(back) Subject: New Topic-Coolest color combos for 2001 From: "Ken Reimer" <kreimer@uniserve.com> Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 19:53:47 -0700 Hey everybody, I'm having a hard time choosing the color scheme for my new ride. It's a 1967 Firebird 326 hardtop, that's going to be restored from the ground up, but I need to visualize how it's going to look in order to increase my motivation. The car is not going to be equipped exactly as built, so I don't care about originality other than the car looking stock inside and out. The original colors were Cameo White body color, Ivory White vinyl roof and Parchment white interior. Any and all opinions will be taken into consideration. Thanks in advance. Regards, Ken Reimer
(back) Subject: Re: Power Steering Question From: "Landis Rogers" <rogers_landis@hotmail.com> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 12:05:46 -0400 My friend had 69 with a steering box that was "stiff". It got = progressivly stiffer until one day it suddenly sieze as we where going around a corner. = Fortunately there was a nice big lawn to run off onto. Talk to the homeonwer and left the car there, came back and installed a new steering box. Good as new Landis 67 fbird _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: RE: Gas price From: "A Jason Maynard" <ajasonm@one.net.au> Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 01:05:44 +0800 A$3.60 or A$4.10 at the worst for 98 premium US gal Jason Perth West Australia
(back) Subject: electrical question From: "Landis Rogers" <rogers_landis@hotmail.com> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 13:07:50 -0400 The brake warning light on my dash is always illuminated. I've looked at everything that I can thinks of. All the brakes are new with new wheel cylinders and a rebuilt master cylinder. The brakes work fine and the emergency brake is hooked up and works well enough to stall out the 400 = when I let the clutch out. I've checked all the brake light and insured no leaks. I'm not sure where else to look. any hints would be appreciated. = My passengers are always a little wary when I tell them to ignore the = light. Landis 67 400 coupe _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: 67 Part search... From: "Brett Luikkonen" <brett@cisdirect.com> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 10:16:11 -0500 Hi guy's, just checking to see if anyone has a front passenger side turn signal housing and wiring socket... the whole assembly that they could part with? Mine is there but broken and needs to be replaced. Thanks, Brett 67 Drop Top 455!
(back) Subject: Re: factory guages From: "Lee" <pyre400@yahoo.com> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 10:40:12 -0700 (PDT) Fuel guage problem? You can test the guage by grounding the brown wire, it should go to empty. Do this by grounding the female portion of the connector located in your trunk.. (its the dark brown wire) You may also test the sending unit with a multimeter (Ohms) from the connector in the trunk... The connector, I believe, has a dark brown wire, and a tan wire. The tan being your license plate light, and the dark brown being the sending unit. Place the red on your multimeter to the brow wire (male connector) leading to your sending unit (not the female back to the guage) and the black wire of your multimeter to a good ground on the body. Bump the car a few times to see the Ohms go up and down. If the tank is full there should be around >90 Ohms. If it is empty it should only be around 1 if I remember (somebody correct me if I'm wrong) The sending unit float over time turns to "rock" but I don't think it will effect its function. What I had seen on my sending unit, was that the coils inside were broken causing the unit to fail most of the time. (Many years of service eats up these coils which look like a bic pen spring around a thin piece of cardboard) The sending unit turns out to be an expensive item. I had spent 70 + on my replacement, though it was for a 350 without the vapor return. This was a good deal, but the alternative would be to have Year One rebuild the faulty unit for over $100. The ohms should range around 90-100 when the tank is full. So with your sending unit acting as a "Variable Resistor", and the guage acts as an Ohms meter (the higher the Ohms the fuller the tank.) Hope some of this information helps.. Good luck Lee 68 400 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices http://auctions.yahoo.com/
(back) Subject: Re: Gas Prices From: "Lee" <pyre400@yahoo.com> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 11:09:50 -0700 (PDT) In Chi town we are paying over $2 for premium. I have a 16 Gallon tank on my Stratus and it will usually cost me $26 to fill. Isn't it funny how all the energy/utility companies start gouging consumers at the same time? Why does this happen? Because our fine friends in DC are giving the companies the go-ahead to make as much money as possible. This is a price gouging trend that will continue because there is not a damn thing we can do about it. They got us by the sack friends. Its no wonder there are the highest profits in the history of the industry!! I say we get the farmers back in the saddle with corn alcohol!! Many late model cars with computer controlled ignition/fuel delivery can run on up to 65% alcohol!!! If I'm going to be throwing $2 a gallon at the pump, I would like at least $.75 going to the farmers!! I can't see any logic like this working though, since my representatives are in bed with the Arabs, and the Oil companies. Lotsa money to be made.. I'm just glad that the air I breathe is still free. Sometimes I can't stop my big mouth, sorry but it makes me angry!!!! Lee __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices http://auctions.yahoo.com/
(back) Subject: Re: Stripping Paint From: "Brady Esch" <besch@cardeon.com> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 11:43:52 -0700 Marty, I have been taking an autobody class one weeknight a week just for fun. = On my last project, the paint had microcracks all over, so it had to come = off. The instructor recommended Aircraft Stripper as follows: 1) Work on one panel at a time. 2) Tape off all body seams (3M masking tape and newspaper) so the stripper cannot go anywhere other than your panel, leaving at least a 1/4" border covering all edges of the panel. 3) Brush on the stripper, and let it set just a few minutes. 4) Scrape off the loose layer (with a 2-3" flat scraper). 5) Repeat steps 3 and 4 until you are down to bare metal/bondo. 6) Wash panel with soapy water. 7) Start on next panel. This took me a couple hours per panel, and the entire front end was = stripped clean to metal/bondo in a weekend. A DA sander can be used, but the paper should be changed frequently. Worn sandpaper will create heat that can = warp a large panel. In class, both methods were used, but for large areas the stripping method worked much faster (comparing other people's projects). I think bondo can be left on as long as the surface part that may have soaked up stripper is sanded/ground away. I chose to remove all bondo, repair the previous bodywork, and level it out myself. At any rate, don't waste time trying to strip the bondo, it should be ground/sanded off. By the way, the car was beautifully smooth when I bought it, but there was significant bondo lurking in areas I did not realize. I had to do a lot = of bodywork to repair what appeared to be a straight front end. Brady Esch 1968 Convertible 400
(back) Subject: Re: Gas Prices From: "matt schmid" <schmidmj@hotmail.com> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 20:45:51 yeah, down with OPEC!!!! you tell 'em Lee. I'd put my .02 in but you seem = to have covered it all. Matt 68 350 coupe >In Chi town we are paying over $2 for premium. I have >a 16 Gallon tank on my Stratus and it will usually >cost me $26 to fill. >Isn't it funny how all the energy/utility companies >start gouging consumers at the same time? Why does >this happen? Because our fine friends in DC are >giving the companies the go-ahead to make as much >money as possible. This is a price gouging trend that >will continue because there is not a damn thing we can >do about it. They got us by the sack friends. >Its no wonder there are the highest profits in the >history of the industry!! I say we get the farmers >back in the saddle with corn alcohol!! Many late >model cars with computer controlled ignition/fuel >delivery can run on up to 65% alcohol!!! > >If I'm going to be throwing $2 a gallon at the pump, I >would like at least $.75 going to the farmers!! > >I can't see any logic like this working though, since >my representatives are in bed with the Arabs, and the >Oil companies. Lotsa money to be made.. > >I'm just glad that the air I breathe is still free. > >Sometimes I can't stop my big mouth, sorry but it >makes me angry!!!! > >Lee > > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: Re: Subframe (re)alignment? From: <JGeigel@aol.com> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 16:51:12 EDT Doug, I have to do the same realignment to mine. I did a trial run and when = fully aligned seemed to be off by 1/16" to 1/8". Were you able to get = yours right on? Thanks Joe Geigel
(back) Subject: Re: Gas Prices From: <NoPinkTutu@aol.com> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 17:05:57 EDT In a message dated 4/27/2001 2:06:52 PM Central Daylight Time, pyre400@yahoo.com writes: << I say we get the farmers back in the saddle with corn alcohol!! >> I saw the high natural gas prices coming this winter and installed a = pellet stove that'll burn wood pellets or corn. Never had a gas & electric bill = over $100. And corn's like 3 bucks a bushel. You can heat a good sized house = for three bucks a day. = Wayne =
(back) Subject: Re: factory guages From: "Craig" <coreman@uniserve.com> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 14:44:40 -0700 thanks alot, great info, really appreciate it. Time to go troubleshoot. Craig Lee wrote: > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > Fuel guage problem? > You can test the guage by grounding the brown wire, it > should go to empty. Do this by grounding the female > portion of the connector located in your trunk.. (its > the dark brown wire) You may also test the sending > unit with a multimeter (Ohms) from the connector in > the trunk... The connector, I believe, has a dark > brown wire, and a tan wire. The tan being your > license plate light, and the dark brown being the > sending unit. Place the red on your multimeter to the > brow wire (male connector) leading to your sending > unit (not the female back to the guage) and the black > wire of your multimeter to a good ground on the body. > Bump the car a few times to see the Ohms go up and > down. If the tank is full there should be around >90 > Ohms. If it is empty it should only be around 1 if I > remember (somebody correct me if I'm wrong) > > The sending unit float over time turns to "rock" but I > don't think it will effect its function. What I had > seen on my sending unit, was that the coils inside > were broken causing the unit to fail most of the time. > (Many years of service eats up these coils which look > like a bic pen spring around a thin piece of > cardboard) > The sending unit turns out to be an expensive item. I > had spent 70 + on my replacement, though it was for a > 350 without the vapor return. This was a good deal, > but the alternative would be to have Year One rebuild > the faulty unit for over $100. The ohms should range > around 90-100 when the tank is full. > So with your sending unit acting as a "Variable > Resistor", and the guage acts as an Ohms meter (the > higher the Ohms the fuller the tank.) > > Hope some of this information helps.. Good luck > > Lee > 68 400 >
(back) Subject: Subframe (re)alignment? From: "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 18:02:44 -0400 Rowan, check the archieves, Ive described this alignment before. 5/8 rod at body mounts to firewall are factory alignment holes. also look in your service manual. Gary Subject: Subframe (re)alignment? From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 19:56:49 -0700 Tomorow I will be removing my subframe for sandblast and paint. after that, weld the pickaxe hole in my oil pan, apply some duplicolor 227 and put her back on the road again. I am wondering if anyone has tips or strategy to insure I get the subframe on straight. I don't know that it was perfect before, and I will be using new bushings all around, so it won't sit like it did before anyway. thanks in advance Rowan
(back) Subject: Re: factory guages From: "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 18:05:44 -0400 Most likely a bad ground connection which is next to the filler neck attached to trunk floor with a self tapping screw, or rheostat on sender is crapped up.Should read 0-90 ohms full to empty. Gary Subject: Re: factory guages From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 19:45:58 -0700 have a look at your wiring(its a brown wire).because that is easier than dropping the tank. there isn't much for the float to hang on. Does the guage read half wieth a half tank? If the sender is the problem, you are lucky because it is easier to drop = the tank of a Firebird than about any other car. suggestion b) drive on rough roads for a while, it night start working again. Rowan
(back) Subject: Re: Gas Prices From: <Jimc2002@aol.com> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 18:39:15 EDT The price will be high this summer when demand is high like last year. = For 8 years we've had no energy policy. Can't drill domestically, can't build refineries, have to make special reformulated gas, can't build pipelines, = but keep adding demand with more and more vehicles. Opec has us now. Somehow = Washington , Big Oil and the environmentalists need to start working = together to solve this rather than pointing fingers. It's the consumers who are losing now. There are days I put $50 in my van. Jim 68 400HO
(back) Subject: Re: Subframe (re)alignment? From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 16:05:31 -0700 Thanks for the good words.... Those alignment holes will save me a great deal of time. Why would Joes notline up? I have heard that the thrust at the right rear from launching whith a = large motor actualy drives the car body out of square over time. Rowan >From: JGeigel@aol.com >Doug, > >I have to do the same realignment to mine. I did a trial run and when >fully aligned seemed to be off by 1/16" to 1/8". Were you able to get >yours right on? > >Thanks >Joe Geigel _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: Re: Subframe (re)alignment? From: "Kevin Young" <kyoung@sagelink.net> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 18:15:22 -0500 Rowan, After you get all the bushing's in with new liners take it to a front end shop and have a 4 wheel alighnment done. They alighn the front end to the rear axle and it will track straight. If it is too far out the front end = man will let ya know and probably give you some suggestions on how to get it straight. Do I want to ask how a pick axe hole appeared in the oil pan? Kevin kyoung@sagelink.net http://www.n-link.com/~kyoung ICQ# 1841210 As far as the laws of mathematics refer to reality, they are not certain; and as far as they are certain, they do not refer to reality.-- Albert Einstein ----- Original Message ----- From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> To: <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2001 9:56 PM Subject: Subframe (re)alignment? > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > Tomorow I will be removing my subframe for sandblast and paint. > after that, weld the pickaxe hole in my oil pan, apply some duplicolor = 227 > and put her back on the road again. > I am wondering if anyone has tips or strategy to insure I get the = subframe > on straight. I don't know that it was perfect before, and I will be = using > new bushings all around, so it won't sit like it did before anyway. > thanks in advance > Rowan
(back) Subject: Re: Stripping Paint From: <NoPinkTutu@aol.com> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 20:11:02 EDT In a message dated 4/27/2001 1:53:34 AM Central Daylight Time, PStonebrak@aol.com writes: << Marty, I rented a soda blaster. >> Pete, what does a soda blaster use for the blasting media? I've never heard of it. Does it leave a mess that is easily cleaned up? The tire molds at work get pulled out out the presses, then glass = beaded & all the vents drilled on a regular schedule. The earthmover molds take = so much work to pull & clean, that they were contracting it out to an outside = company & I don't remember the name of them. But they had a large truck mounted blaster that used dry ice. It didn't work quite as well as glass beads, but it leaves no mess other than the grunge that was blasted off. = Wayne
(back) Subject: Re: electrical question From: "Bob Cisneros" <Bob.Cisneros@Sun.COM> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 17:31:20 -0700 (PDT) Landis writes: >The brake warning light on my dash is always illuminated. I've looked at = >everything that I can thinks of. All the brakes are new with new wheel >cylinders and a rebuilt master cylinder. The brakes work fine and the >emergency brake is hooked up and works well enough to stall out the 400 = when >I let the clutch out. There are two places where you would find a switch that will turn this light on. One being the switch on the parking brake pedal. The spring loaded switch senses when the pedal is depressed. Check this to see if the spring is binding or if the wire is even connected. The second is on the distribution valve outside the master cylinder. There is a pressure sensor that looks for loss of pressure in the front or rear line. The wire to this sensor is often left unconnected. -BoB San Jose, CA 1968 convertible bob.cisneros@Sun.COM
(back) Subject: RE: Gas price (new mexico) From: "danny" <dannyboylll@qwest.net> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 19:13:35 -0600 i think i am living in a cheap state. gas for me is about 1.60 for = premium. 1.35 for regular unleaded. i can usually get it cheaper on the air force base though. danny 68 400 albuquerque
(back) Subject: Re: Stripping Paint From: <PStonebrak@aol.com> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 21:33:36 EDT Wayne, I live in Dallas tx. I rented this set up for a weekend for $200. = It had a deisel powered Ingersol-Rand compressor with a blast hopper. The = soda costs $25 per 50# bag. The soda (baking soda) gets all over so do it = outside. Its noisy and requires eye & ear protection. Sure does relieve acid indegestion. Sure cleans things in a hurry. Degrease enine parts or whole engine without damage to rubber, glass, plastic,or stainless parts. When finished hose it off or wait for rain. Pete
(back) Subject: Hot? Yea it's hot, ok? not ok? From: "John Wern" <jwern@charter.net> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 22:14:45 -0400 One quick question -- It's not how to cool my car, (I've read many = threads on that - thanks all), but rather in everyones opinion... How hot is to = hot for my firebird 400 to run? It runs 180-190 degrees untill I sit in = traffic or play around and then it goes to 200 -205 degrees. Once it gets to the = 200 mark it aint coming back down. What do you guys think? John 68' 400/400