First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List Stupid Heater Hose Question by "Keith Donmoyer" <kadonny@hotmail.com> Re: Fw: Stupid Heater Hose Question by "Jeff Lane" <JeffLane32@hotmail.com> Q-jet information needed by "larry diede" <ldiede@bangkok.com> Some Pix & the Power Tour by "Brett Luikkonen" <brett@cisdirect.com> Off topic but still auto-related - freeze plug replacement by <Chuck_Sellers@hotmail.com> Q-Jet Information Needed by "larry diede" <ldiede@bangkok.com> Re: Off topic but still auto-related - freeze plug replacement by "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Re: Power Steering Adj by "Jeff Frey" <FREYJ@mascorp.com> OHC Sprint Conversion by "Jeff Frey" <FREYJ@mascorp.com> freeze plug by "Joanne Knight" <jknight3@kc.rr.com> Silicone Brake Fluid by "Ed Pittman" <e_pittman@juno.com> Re: 67 400 4V Intake by "Bob Trimpe" <fyrebird68@hotmail.com> Re: Silicone Brake Fluid by <Studderin@aol.com> where can I get new lower control arm bolts? by <BHA676@aol.com> Re: Some Pix & the Power Tour by "Hugo Tafel" <hugoptour@yahoo.com> RE: Off topic but still auto-related - freeze plug replacement by "Rodger Fromm" <rwfromm@nf.sympatico.ca> Re: where can I get new lower control arm bolts? by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Re: Power Steering Adj by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Re: Off topic but still auto-related - freeze plug replacement by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Progress by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> RE: Off topic but still auto-related - freeze plug replacement by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Re: where can I get new lower control arm bolts? by "Daniel" <poncho40@sga.quik.com> Re: where can I get new lower control arm bolts? by "Niklas Ridell" <vcc2.nridell@memo.volvo.se>
(back) Subject: Stupid Heater Hose Question From: "Keith Donmoyer" <kadonny@hotmail.com> Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 08:54:28 -0400 Ok, here is the way my car was set up, let me preface this by saying I am not absolutely sure but pretty sure this is correct. The top connection follows along the inner wheel well and goes to the water pump. Connect = this hose first. Second, the bottom connection and the second hose then wraps over top of the first hose in a loop like fashion and is connected to the rear of the head. I have a pic on my web page www.geocities.com/kldonny go to the "Birds Nest" link Once again I think this is correct, I have seen other cars this way and = many pics that support this. Hope this helps. Keith 68 H.O. Subject: Re: Fw: Stupid Heater Hose Question From: "larry diede" <ldiede@bangkok.com> Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 07:39:13 -0600 Jeff, I believe that the hose from the rear of the passenger head goes to the = top core connection and that the bottom of the core connection then is connected to = the water pump. Anybody out there know for sure, as I need to connect mine up = soon also. Larry Diede Denver, CO _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: Re: Fw: Stupid Heater Hose Question From: "Jeff Lane" <JeffLane32@hotmail.com> Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 09:00:22 -0400 Jeff - you're an idiot. Stop posting questions that would be obvious by simply looking at the water pump nipple diameter and the new heater core. You know I have recently started talking to myself over getting this car back together :) I'm getting there with all your help, though. Thanks, = Jeff. Original Message ----- From: <Jimc2002@aol.com> To: <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 6:54 PM Subject: Re: Fw: Stupid Heater Hose Question > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > My 68 - 400 has the top heater core hose to the water pump. The lower = to the > rear block. The hoses are different id's too. > > Jim > >
(back) Subject: Q-jet information needed From: "larry diede" <ldiede@bangkok.com> Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 07:34:35 -0600 Does anyone on the list know how the 1968, 1969, 350 H.O., Q-jets were set = up by the factory? I am looking for: primary jet size, (example: 70, stamped on jet) primary rod size, (example: 43b, stamped on rod) secondary rod (alphabet code, stamped on rod) seconadry rod hanger (alphabet letter, stamped on = hanger) Thanks in advance, Larry Diede Denver, CO ----------------------------------------------- Thailand's BEST Free Email at Bangkok.com - http://mail.bangkok.com
(back) Subject: Some Pix & the Power Tour From: "Brett Luikkonen" <brett@cisdirect.com> Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 07:37:06 -0500 Tue, 1 May 2001 Here are some pictures that I ftp'd to my site. I have not had time to index or thumbnail them yet: http://www.apcom.com/fbody/ptour2001 Hugo Now your really getting to me... Pictures to back-up the description of the adventure... All I can say is keep it coming = Hugo... keep it coming! If I get back down to the Bay Area in June or Aug. Maybe I can talk Mike Stevens into bringing me down to meet you for lunch one = day? Looking forward to your next entry! - Brett
(back) Subject: Off topic but still auto-related - freeze plug replacement From: <Chuck_Sellers@hotmail.com> Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 12:15:16 -0700 Hi listers, While changing the oil, I found a nagging real slow radiator leak in the wife's Suburban (at least it's GM!) around the freeze plug just above the oil filter. My question is how to replace it and if I can get to it fairly easily = should it be pretty simple? I am not sure by what method they have to be pressed in. Thanks! Chuck Sellers '68 350 automatic (Thanks, BoB!) droptop
(back) Subject: Q-Jet Information Needed From: "larry diede" <ldiede@bangkok.com> Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 14:35:29 -0600 Does anyone on the list know how the 1968,1969, 350 H.O. Q-jets were set = up by the factory? I am looking for primary jet size primary rod size secondary rod alphabet code and which seconadry rod hanger letter code thanks in advance. Larry Diede Denver, CO ----------------------------------------------- Thailand's BEST Free Email at Bangkok.com - http://mail.bangkok.com
(back) Subject: Re: Off topic but still auto-related - freeze plug replacement From: "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 17:05:18 -0500 Bear's radiator stop leak and a 6 pack of you favorite beer. >>> Chuck_Sellers@hotmail.com 05/02/01 02:15PM >>> First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List .......................................................................... Hi listers, While changing the oil, I found a nagging real slow radiator leak in the wife's Suburban (at least it's GM!) around the freeze plug just above the oil filter. My question is how to replace it and if I can get to it fairly easily = should it be pretty simple? I am not sure by what method they have to be pressed in. Thanks! Chuck Sellers '68 350 automatic (Thanks, BoB!) droptop
(back) Subject: Re: Power Steering Adj From: "Jeff Frey" <FREYJ@mascorp.com> Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 15:18:58 -0700 Gary and the rest, I made a few calls to track down a ps box as you recommend. Two places = have cautioned me that the late model WS-6 does not show as interchangeable on the early model cars. They said the swap is for 77-later. Do you think = it should work, or is it worth making it fit? One guy has a WS-4, he says will work direct swap and feels this is a good option. Is $75 reasonable? Thanks, Jeff >Thanks Gary. Now I have an excellent reason to head for the boneyard = this weekend. - - Jeff >>Jeff its not the pump its the gearbox that makes the difference. >>Go buy a gear box from any Trans Am 69-78 and use that. >>Better yet is the WS-6 Trans Am box from 78-81(2.2 turns ) >>Pump is just fine. Check Achieves for notes on this.Gary >>>Is there a way to tone down the amount of pressure assist that the ps pump >>>gives? I saw a power steering "tuner"
(back) Subject: OHC Sprint Conversion From: "Jeff Frey" <FREYJ@mascorp.com> Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 15:43:36 -0700 I am now (after more trouble than you could make up) driving a wonderfully "perky" 1-bbl OHC with a Sprint head and cam. I replaced the improperly installed 1-bbl valves with the proper 4-bbl valves. It took me 3 tries before I could find a machinist who promised he would face the valves and leave the tips alone. This advice from the list was great! Gary I think this was yours as usual. Since I am running a reground cam, I still had some space to make up so, I ended up using .066 shims (really hardened washers) under the lash = adjusters to get the noise out of the valve train. I am right on the edge of the adjustment, and get about 15 seconds of tapping when I start the car cold. It then quiets down to a nice slightly rough idle. About 2500 rpm, it is smooth as silk. At 75 mph, the car is just begging to put the pedal down for more! But I can't since I-5 cops love to dole out the paper. (Sorry I have been V8-impaired for a long time, and this car really feels fast to me now.) 4-bbl here we come. - - Jeff
(back) Subject: freeze plug From: "Joanne Knight" <jknight3@kc.rr.com> Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 18:37:23 -0500 Snap-on tools sells a punch set designed to install freeze plugs without removing the engine. I've done it but the truck was on a lift and it was a V6 s-10 . I replaced a plug on the other side the engine and it was pretty painfull.
(back) Subject: Silicone Brake Fluid From: "Ed Pittman" <e_pittman@juno.com> Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 20:16:52 -0400 In the process of restoring my 68 I have just completed a disk brake conversion, all new brake lines and new rear brakes with new cylinders. I am trying to decide if I should go with DOT 5 "silicone" brake fluid since I have a completely clean system. I would appreciate input from the group with recommendations. I checked the FAQ's and could find no reference. A second question regards the exhaust pipe connection to the manifold. When I disassembled everything to pull the engine and trans, there were no type of gasket where they joined. There did not seem to be any leakage. When I purchased new Fel-Pro manifold gaskets, included were two pairs of two different sizes of "donut" shaped gaskets included. I checked the service manual and the diagrams do not indicate that there are to be any gaskets installed where the pipe joins the manifold. Any suggestions? The list has been a great source of information and encouragement. I have taken about a thousand digital images during the disassembly process and would be glad to share any that I have if anyone can use them. Many thanks, Ed 68 400 convertible
(back) Subject: Re: 67 400 4V Intake From: "Bob Trimpe" <fyrebird68@hotmail.com> Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 20:40:45 -0400 Edelbrock performer intakes turn up regularly on e-bay. You can probably snag one for under $100, and its a great part. Bob Trimpe >From: Craig <coreman@uniserve.com> > >Looking for a 4bbl intake for a 67 400. Any ideas? >Craig > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: Re: Silicone Brake Fluid From: <Studderin@aol.com> Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 21:31:37 EDT ED, are the picures posted any where on the web?? John Costello
(back) Subject: where can I get new lower control arm bolts? From: <BHA676@aol.com> Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 21:49:46 EDT arghhh stupid bolts are rusted to the inner sleeve of the lower control = arm bushings!!!!!! I have tried to bang the damn things out but no luck! the = nuts came off easy but now i want to cut the damn things out! I have been = banging on the end hoping to break the bolt free. Can i cut it out? I think i have enough space to cut the bolt out on each side of the = control arm between the subframe. It should (i hope) then drop straight down and = I can get on with the job. Big question--- Where can I get two replacement bolts of at least grade = 8? I dont want to use cheap bolts on my suspension. brad 67 400 convert I will hold off doing any cutting til I find the replacement bolts.
(back) Subject: Re: Some Pix & the Power Tour From: "Hugo Tafel" <hugoptour@yahoo.com> Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 20:31:01 -0700 (PDT) Brett, I figure this way I may get some more people to join in on the fun the next time around or even to set up their own cruises. What better way to enjoy these great machines. If you're ever down my way please let me know and we'll hook up. Today I met up with Lee and Jim in Chicago and we had lunch and took pictures and talked for a few hours. Jim's 68 is beautiful. I'll have some pictures up tomorrow since it's late tonight. Lee brought some pictures of his project and he'll have his 68 on the road soon. Thanks for the get together guys. If We'll be in Pontiac Michigan tomorrow for the kickoff party so if any local guy's come out, give me a call at 408-594-1081 so that we can hook up Hugo --- Brett Luikkonen <brett@cisdirect.com> wrote: > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > .......................................................................... > Tue, 1 May 2001 > Here are some pictures that I ftp'd to my site. > I have not had time to index or thumbnail them yet: > http://www.apcom.com/fbody/ptour2001 > Hugo > > Now your really getting to me... Pictures to back-up > the description of the adventure... All I can say is > keep it coming Hugo... > keep it coming! > > If I get back down to the Bay Area in June or Aug. > Maybe > I can talk Mike Stevens into bringing me down to > meet you for lunch one day? > > Looking forward to your next entry! - Brett > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices http://auctions.yahoo.com/
(back) Subject: RE: Off topic but still auto-related - freeze plug replacement From: "Rodger Fromm" <rwfromm@nf.sympatico.ca> Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 01:35:55 -0230 I got a 95 Blazer that just came back from the GM garage from getting a "frost" plug replaced, not sure if they are also called freeze plugs where = i am up in canada...but it was a coolent leak....they put the first replacement in...and it still leaked...they had to put a second in before the leak stopped...10 hours labor...lucky thing we got a price first and only cost $125 canadian. does not sound like something i would tackle on = my own...then again...i do not have a lift. Rodger
(back) Subject: Re: where can I get new lower control arm bolts? From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 21:44:13 -0700 Youb should be able to find some nice rust free ones waiting patiently for = you on one of those ghastly Nova cars Chevrolet made to keep us stocked = with parts. The nut on those is a special locking nut, and I'd try to avoid = the hardware store part. Look through the book at your local AutoZone, and whatever lists the same lower control arm BUSHINGS wilol be an acceptable donor car. I think this might include second gen... If you can borrow or rent an air chisel, that might do it too. ..02 Rowan >From: BHA676@aol.com > >arghhh stupid bolts are rusted to the inner sleeve of the lower control >arm >bushings!!!!!! I have tried to bang the damn things out but no luck! = the >nuts came off easy but now i want to cut the damn things out! I have = been >banging on the end hoping to break the bolt free. Can i cut it out? I >think i have enough space to cut the bolt out on each side of the = control >arm between the subframe. It should (i hope) then drop straight down and = I >can get on with the job. > >Big question--- Where can I get two replacement bolts of at least grade = >8? >I dont want to use cheap bolts on my suspension. > >brad >67 400 convert > >I will hold off doing any cutting til I find the replacement bolts. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: Re: Power Steering Adj From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 21:48:45 -0700 Two other options I haven't seen mentioned yet... A smaller steering wheel Increased caster angle (or less nose down stance) will give the wheel a stronger return to center. My box (and I have no idea what it came from) is 2 1/2 turns lock to lock, = and I am very happy with it. Rowan >From: Jeff Frey <FREYJ@mascorp.com> >Gary and the rest, > >I made a few calls to track down a ps box as you recommend. Two places >have >cautioned me that the late model WS-6 does not show as interchangeable on >the early model cars. They said the swap is for 77-later. Do you think = it >should work, or is it worth making it fit? One guy has a WS-4, he says >will work direct swap and feels this is a good option. Is $75 = reasonable? > >Thanks, >Jeff > > > >Thanks Gary. Now I have an excellent reason to head for the boneyard >this >weekend. - - Jeff > > >>Jeff its not the pump its the gearbox that makes the difference. > >>Go buy a gear box from any Trans Am 69-78 and use that. > >>Better yet is the WS-6 Trans Am box from 78-81(2.2 turns ) > >>Pump is just fine. Check Achieves for notes on this.Gary > > >>>Is there a way to tone down the amount of pressure assist that the ps >pump > >>>gives? I saw a power steering "tuner" > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: Re: Off topic but still auto-related - freeze plug replacement From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 21:58:53 -0700 Hey that is a lot nicer than the one just above the rear main seal. For removal, I use a cats paw (small carpenters nail puller), hammer and a = chisel if need be. Clean well, a cuped wire brush is fast if you can get it in there. tap the new one in with a big socket. Most cars, I can do most of the = plugs without removing many parts. I don't know why GM uses the steel freeze plugs, IMO they are doomed to premature failure. I like the brass ones. If on removal, you find the plug almost rustd through from the inside, the = others are likely in a similar state... Rowan >From: <Chuck_Sellers@hotmail.com> >Hi listers, > >While changing the oil, I found a nagging real slow radiator leak in the >wife's Suburban (at least it's GM!) around the freeze plug just above the >oil filter. > >My question is how to replace it and if I can get to it fairly easily >should >it be pretty simple? I am not sure by what method they have to be pressed >in. > >Thanks! > >Chuck Sellers >'68 350 automatic (Thanks, BoB!) droptop > > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: Progress From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 22:32:42 -0700 Today I sandblasted on my subframe untill it was so dark the only thing I could see was the glow that appears where the sand strikes steel. Got almost done in 3 hours. I probably spent another 3 with the heavy angle grinder running a 5" knotted wire cup, another hour chiseling and grinding = weld spatter and slop. The ugly was almost all confined to the control = arm tower area. I am very pleased with my new used Hydrovane6 compressor 220v, 2 horse. = It is quiet enough you can stand next to it and talk on the phone while it runs, and has a fancy line dryer. Moves enough air to sandblast almost continuously (the 40 LB hopper runs out just as pressure is starting to = get low) Anyway, I heartily reccomend the vane type compressor to anyone with = sensitive neighbors. The manufacturer claims an average life expectancy = of 40 years industrial use. 10 used up so far... While waiting for my brother to finish blasting the frame of his Spitfire (replacement for bent & miswelded one on the car), I removed and restored = my heater control box and pasenger footwell vent. Also cleaned up the = firewall in prep for paint there. I put in a new heater core, but will have to = hold off on AC untill I locate an AC housing(outside the firewall)(if somone = has detailed pictures of this part, or interchange info, I'd appreciate it). How did I get that pickaxe hole in my oil pan? Well they come that way = from the junkyard here. Turns out the Corvette one has too long of a low area, = Kragens chrome one hung a little too close to the steering , as well as = they didn't have a dipstick on the right pan. So there you have it. I am starting to get excited...Wish I had a camera. The rams horn Nova exhaus manifolds look sweet with the TPI intake runners. Later, Rowan *68 in peices _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: RE: Off topic but still auto-related - freeze plug replacement From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 22:37:30 -0700 I forgot to mention that I use 'high tack' gasket glue on all surfaces = when instaling those things, both as stop leak and assembly lube. I also try to leage them in the freezer untill needed. Rowan ps I've never had one come back. >From: "Rodger Fromm" <rwfromm@nf.sympatico.ca> >I got a 95 Blazer that just came back from the GM garage from getting a >"frost" plug replaced, not sure if they are also called freeze plugs = where >i >am up in canada...but it was a coolent leak....they put the first >replacement in...and it still leaked...they had to put a second in before >the leak stopped...10 hours labor...lucky thing we got a price first and >only cost $125 canadian. does not sound like something i would tackle on = >my >own...then again...i do not have a lift. > >Rodger > > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: Re: where can I get new lower control arm bolts? From: "Daniel" <poncho40@sga.quik.com> Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 23:16:08 -0400 try a john deere or any other tractor store do not know if they will have some that size or not but almost every bolt they sell is grade 8 Daniel Ray
(back) Subject: Re: where can I get new lower control arm bolts? From: "Niklas Ridell" <vcc2.nridell@memo.volvo.se> Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 08:19:26 +0200 I had problems on one side. I cut the bolt head off (which was pointing forward on my car) and forced the bolt out with an air chisel. /Niklas bha676@aol.com wrote: > arghhh stupid bolts are rusted to the inner sleeve of the lower control = arm > bushings!!!!!! I have tried to bang the damn things out but no luck! = the > nuts came off easy but now i want to cut the damn things out! I have = been > banging on the end hoping to break the bolt free. Can i cut it out? I > think i have enough space to cut the bolt out on each side of the = control > arm between the subframe. It should (i hope) then drop straight down = and I > can get on with the job. > > Big question--- Where can I get two replacement bolts of at least = grade 8? > I dont want to use cheap bolts on my suspension. > > brad > 67 400 convert > > I will hold off doing any cutting til I find the replacement bolts. >