First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List Re: Power Steering Adj by "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Re: Power Steering Adj by "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Re: Power Steering Adj by "Niklas Ridell" <vcc2.nridell@memo.volvo.se> Re: Silicone Brake Fluid by "Ed Pittman" <e_pittman@juno.com> Re: where can I get new lower control arm bolts? by "larry diede" <ldiede@bangkok.com> Re: Off topic but still auto-related - freeze plug replacement by <Chuck_Sellers@hotmail.com> Slow radiator leak by "Brett Luikkonen" <brett@cisdirect.com> Hugo and the Hot Rod Power Tour by "Brett Luikkonen" <brett@cisdirect.com> Cheap digital camera by <Chuck_Sellers@hotmail.com> DOT 5 by "Chris Porter" <fxstsb@qwest.net> Re: Power Steering Adj by "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Value of your gen 1 firebird by "Duane Bender" <dbender@dotcomify.com> Re: Some Pix & the Power Tour by "Charles Hazelton" <chuckhazelton@telocity.com> Re: DOT 5 by <Jimc2002@aol.com> speedometer question by <T2AVLIS@aol.com> Re: Power Steering Adj by "Jeff Frey" <FREYJ@mascorp.com> Re: speedometer question by "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Re: Silicone Brake Fluid by "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Re: Silicone Brake Fluid by <NoPinkTutu@aol.com> Re: Silicone Brake Fluid by "Ronsoy" <Ronsoy@bellsouth.net> Re: DOT 5 by "Bob Cisneros" <Bob.Cisneros@Sun.COM> Re: Value of your gen 1 firebird by "Joe Brown" <jb.pb@gte.net> Re: DOT 5 ...Thanks Bob!!!! by <JGeigel@aol.com> Re: where can I get new lower control arm bolts? by "Joe Brown" <jb.pb@gte.net> Re: Value of your gen 1 firebird by <BHA676@aol.com> Stripper--- by "John Wern" <jwern@charter.net>
(back) Subject: Re: Power Steering Adj From: "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 07:53:39 -0500 Rowan, There is a big difference going from the stock 2.5 to a WS6 2.2 box. = Drive a 78 to 81 WS6 TA and you will understand. >>> x1r1@hotmail.com 05/02/01 11:48PM >>> First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List .......................................................................... Two other options I haven't seen mentioned yet... A smaller steering wheel Increased caster angle (or less nose down stance) will give the wheel a stronger return to center. My box (and I have no idea what it came from) is 2 1/2 turns lock to lock, = and I am very happy with it. Rowan >From: Jeff Frey <FREYJ@mascorp.com> >Gary and the rest, > >I made a few calls to track down a ps box as you recommend. Two places >have >cautioned me that the late model WS-6 does not show as interchangeable on >the early model cars. They said the swap is for 77-later. Do you think = it >should work, or is it worth making it fit? One guy has a WS-4, he says >will work direct swap and feels this is a good option. Is $75 = reasonable? > >Thanks, >Jeff > > > >Thanks Gary. Now I have an excellent reason to head for the boneyard >this >weekend. - - Jeff > > >>Jeff its not the pump its the gearbox that makes the difference. > >>Go buy a gear box from any Trans Am 69-78 and use that. > >>Better yet is the WS-6 Trans Am box from 78-81(2.2 turns ) > >>Pump is just fine. Check Achieves for notes on this.Gary > > >>>Is there a way to tone down the amount of pressure assist that the ps >pump > >>>gives? I saw a power steering "tuner" >
(back) Subject: Re: Power Steering Adj From: "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 07:56:28 -0500 I forgot, you need the rag joint too. >>> Gary@tcworks.net 05/03/01 05:16AM >>> First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List .......................................................................... One guy has a WS-4, he says will work direct swap and feels this is a good option. Is $75 reasonable? Jeff, all Trans Ams were WS4 A WS6 is the optional suspension/braking performance package. Trust me I have a 80 TA WS6 in one 68, A 75 TA WS4 In another,and a 79 TA WS6 in a 67 Tempest Sprint. Since you dont know the condition of the box $75 is a little high for a plain Trans AM box. It is a good price for a WS 6 tho. There were changes in the hoses and isolator(rag joint) in later years See Achieves for details on this. Also look for Buick Grand National or Monte carlo SS, They have the same box but the internal stops are different. Gary
(back) Subject: Re: Power Steering Adj From: "Niklas Ridell" <vcc2.nridell@memo.volvo.se> Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 15:48:33 +0200 Gary, can you please give us some more info about the rag joint? When I swapped gear box I found that the later units have a smaller = diameter input shaft so I used the splined coupling from the donor car. When I bolted the steering column to the coupling it seemed like the rubber piece that goes in-between could have been approx 1/4" thicker. Is this the difference you are referring to? I checked the FAQ's and couldn't find much. /Niklas gary@tcworks.net wrote: > > There were changes in the hoses and isolator(rag joint) in later years > See Achieves for details on this. > Also look for Buick Grand National or Monte carlo SS, They have the > same box but the internal stops are different. > Gary >
(back) Subject: Re: Silicone Brake Fluid From: "Ed Pittman" <e_pittman@juno.com> Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 10:01:35 -0400 John, I currently do not have the photos on the web. That is something I would like to do when I have more time. If you can e-mail me directly we can work out the details of specific interest if you like. Ed On Wed, 2 May 2001 21:31:37 EDT Studderin@aol.com writes: > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > .......................................................................... > ED, > are the picures posted any where on the web?? > John Costello > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
(back) Subject: Re: where can I get new lower control arm bolts? From: "larry diede" <ldiede@bangkok.com> Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 08:01:09 -0600 Brad, I have removed bolts rusted in this way buy using an acetlyene tourch to = heat the protuding end of the bolt to a cherry red. The heat migrates = back into the bushing and breaks the rust bond. Apply a hammer when hot, = don't mushroom the bolt end too much. The rubber may start to burn so = keep a hose handy. Larry Diede Denver, CO ----------------------------------------------- Thailand's BEST Free Email at Bangkok.com - http://mail.bangkok.com
(back) Subject: Re: Off topic but still auto-related - freeze plug replacement From: <Chuck_Sellers@hotmail.com> Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 07:11:26 -0700 Well I hope that it was just that it was never seated well in the 1st = place because I have flushed & changed antifreeze every year so it shouldn't be rusted. It is a 1994 and a California truck. I can see that they are = brass, or at least it appears to be gold-ish in color. Anyway, it looks like I'll probably attempt it this weekend. Thanks for = the advice everyone. Maybe Frank Zeller's advice "Bear's radiator stop-leak = and a six pack of your favorite beer" is an easier way out! LOL Chuck Subject: Re: Off topic but still auto-related - freeze plug replacement From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 21:58:53 -0700 Hey that is a lot nicer than the one just above the rear main seal. For removal, I use a cats paw (small carpenters nail puller), hammer and a chisel if need be. Clean well, a cuped wire brush is fast if you can get it in there. tap the new one in with a big socket. Most cars, I can do most of the = plugs without removing many parts. I don't know why GM uses the steel freeze plugs, IMO they are doomed to premature failure. I like the brass ones. If on removal, you find the plug almost rustd through from the inside, the others are likely in a similar state... Rowan >From: <Chuck_Sellers@hotmail.com> >Hi listers, > >While changing the oil, I found a nagging real slow radiator leak in the >wife's Suburban (at least it's GM!) around the freeze plug just above the >oil filter. > >My question is how to replace it and if I can get to it fairly easily >should >it be pretty simple? I am not sure by what method they have to be pressed >in. > >Thanks! > >Chuck Sellers
(back) Subject: Slow radiator leak From: "Brett Luikkonen" <brett@cisdirect.com> Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 07:17:30 -0500 I found a nagging real slow radiator leak in the wife's Suburban (at least it's GM!) around the freeze plug just above the oil filter. How to replace it and if I can get to it fairly easily should it be pretty simple? I am not sure by what method they have to be pressed in. Thanks! Chuck Sellers '68 350 automatic (Thanks, BoB!) droptop Chuck, If it is a slight leak, really slow and you can't get to it for a while, Try Alumaseal. It comes in a small tube and is added to the radiator. My father has been a mechanic for 50+ years and even in the early stock car scene. He swears by it even in industrial applications. Some may call it a temporary fix, but usually you'll NEVER have a problem with it again! Just a thought to buy some time... Brett - 67 Drop Top 455!
(back) Subject: Hugo and the Hot Rod Power Tour From: "Brett Luikkonen" <brett@cisdirect.com> Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 07:30:06 -0500 >>I figure this way I may get some more people to join in on the fun the next time around or even to set up their own cruises. What better way to enjoy these great machines. Well you got me hooked and the Tour hasn't even Started yet! >>If you're ever down my way please let me know and we'll hook up. Oh believe me... I'll even make a special trip back home just to hook up with you guys... Oh & to see my High School bud's of course! I hope we'll see you & the car in the pages of Hot Rod & on Hot Rod TV on the Tour coverage soon! Thanks for doing this for US Hugo... Later, Brett!
(back) Subject: Cheap digital camera From: <Chuck_Sellers@hotmail.com> Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 07:27:10 -0700 Rowan says> ....So there you have it. I am starting to get = excited...Wish I had a camera. The rams horn Nova exhaust manifolds look sweet with the TIP intake runners. Later, Rowan *68 in pieces Hey Rowan, If you want a decent CHEAP digital camera, check out http://www.aiptek.com/Products/PenCams/PenCam-2.htm This digital camera is $99 and is about the size of a cigar so you can = just drop it into your top shirt pocket. It doubles as a video conferencing device. It takes 24-bit "true color" hi-rez photos (1024x768). I found one and bought it at www.yahoo.com and clicked on the "shopping" link. Yahoo will find the cheapest vendor for you. Chuck Sellers
(back) Subject: DOT 5 From: "Chris Porter" <fxstsb@qwest.net> Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 08:37:26 -0700 My Harley uses only DOT 5, but it states that right on the reservoir cover's. In the past I heard you must have the proper seal's to use DOT 5. I would suspect the seal's you now have are not rated for DOT 5. It was my understanding it can actually harm certain types of seal's. Not 100% sure of this, and maybe thing's have changed a little, but I didn't want to take any chances and ran DOT 4. Chris `68 350 H.O. Drop-top
(back) Subject: Re: Power Steering Adj From: "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 11:20:54 -0500 Yes, the later model boxes have a smaller diameter input shaft into the = steering box. Frank >>> vcc2.nridell@memo.volvo.se 05/03/01 08:48AM >>> First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List .......................................................................... Gary, can you please give us some more info about the rag joint? When I swapped gear box I found that the later units have a smaller = diameter input shaft so I used the splined coupling from the donor car. When I bolted the steering column to the coupling it seemed like the rubber piece that goes in-between could have been approx 1/4" thicker. Is this the difference you are referring to? I checked the FAQ's and couldn't find much. /Niklas
(back) Subject: Value of your gen 1 firebird From: "Duane Bender" <dbender@dotcomify.com> Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 13:33:38 -0400 Hello, I am a lover of gen 1 birds and always keep an eye on the various 'trader' journals and websites. The prices for birds always seem to vary wildly. Therefore, the question posed to this list is: what do you believe to be the fair market value of your bird? Please include a brief description of the details of your baby, and the country/region you live in. Note: I am not compiling a mailing list for a parts supplier or anything like that, but feel free to withhold any info that you consider personal. -Duane '68 V8 Sport Coupe
(back) Subject: Re: Some Pix & the Power Tour From: "Charles Hazelton" <chuckhazelton@telocity.com> Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 10:45:09 -0700 Ok, what am I doing wrong? I want to see the pictures!!! But I always get = a "Cannot find Server" error when I click on the link. Whazup. Using IE 6/OE 6. Chuck Hazelton 68 350 conv > > Tue, 1 May 2001 > > Here are some pictures that I ftp'd to my site. > > I have not had time to index or thumbnail them yet: > > http://www.apcom.com/fbody/ptour2001 > > Hugo
(back) Subject: Re: DOT 5 From: <Jimc2002@aol.com> Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 14:46:38 EDT Anyone, I've been reading the brake fluid discussion and have a basic question. = Is there a description somewhere the "Dot" ratings. I finally had to go look = at what I've been adding to all of my vehicles' brake systems and found my = can of "Dot 3". Thanks, Jim 68 400HO Conv
(back) Subject: speedometer question From: <T2AVLIS@aol.com> Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 16:05:21 EDT Hey to anyone, Will the speedometer from a 1968 firebird gauge pod fit into the pod for a = 1969 firebird? Is it an easy thing to do? Tony 69 conv
(back) Subject: Re: Power Steering Adj From: "Jeff Frey" <FREYJ@mascorp.com> Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 13:47:13 -0700 Thanks very much. I will chase the WS6 for now (w/ a new sway bar), and = see what I can find. Fiddling with hoses seems easy enough. Sounds like a nice setup. - - Jeff >Niklas: I have just completed my swap to a 3:d Gen. steering box from a '84 Trans Am GTA. >Gary: I have a 80 TA WS6 in one 68, A 75 TA WS4 In another,and a 79 TA WS6 in a 67 Tempest Sprint. >Frank: I Installed a WS6 box from a 80 Pace Car..... but you should have = a 1 inch sway bay and good tires. >> Jeff: Two places have cautioned me that the late model WS-6 ps box = does not show as interchangeable on the early model cars.
(back) Subject: Re: speedometer question From: "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 16:10:08 -0500 NO, But a 69 to 72 GTO and 69 to 71 GP will work.. The complete cluster = will bolt in if you want, you just have to switch the lens. There is a = lot of GP running around with rally gauges. I have a 69 GTO in dash tach = and 70 GTO 140 mph speedo. >>> T2AVLIS@aol.com 05/03/01 03:05PM >>> First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List .......................................................................... Hey to anyone, Will the speedometer from a 1968 firebird gauge pod fit into the pod for a = 1969 firebird? Is it an easy thing to do? Tony 69 conv
(back) Subject: Re: Silicone Brake Fluid From: "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 17:21:21 -0400 Subject: Re: Silicone Brake Fluid From: "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 07:50:30 -0500 I've had real good luck with it. The dot 5 does not absorb moisture so = you will cylinder stay in good shape, even if the car sits up for a long time. I rebuild my complete brake system in 1986 and the it still in good = shape after 60K miles and 15 years. Frank, Ive always been a proponent of DOT 5 silicone fluid but lately have = been hearing some bad things. Ive always used it in on my disc brake classic = cars (without any of the micro air bubble problems many have experienced). It is NOT RECOMMENDED for any cars with ABS. Heres what the latest findings are. Its actually better to use hydroscopic fluid and change it yearly than to have silicone fluid stay in the system. It seems as tho since silicone fluid wont absorb any moisture (and there will be some) the moisture puddles up and lays in the lowest spot of the system. If left there over time it will rust and can even cause a catastrophic failure by vapor locking. Its best if you do use silicone fluid to change it at least yearly in a humid environment,and every two years in an arrid environment. Silicones are harder to bleed properly, Ive had to school many a seasoned mechanic on the proper way to purge a silicone system.But it can be just as effective as conventional system with alittle patience. Ive gone to using Valvoline Synthetic DOT 4 in all my later model cars = and trucks and like the way it bleeds and the stopping ability too. About the only conventional fluid that is rated better is made for race cars and cost is 10 times as high as the Valvoline SynPower. Happy Braking Gary
(back) Subject: Re: Silicone Brake Fluid From: <NoPinkTutu@aol.com> Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 17:25:00 EDT If you've got it all new.....now IS the time to switch to silicone brake fluid. Silicone brake fluid is far superior to the old DOT 3 brake fluid. Higher boiling point & it won't hold water like the old stuff. If I was = you, I wou;dn't consider anything other than silicone. = Wayne
(back) Subject: Re: Silicone Brake Fluid From: "Ronsoy" <Ronsoy@bellsouth.net> Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 17:40:20 -0400 I don't see a problem converting, They tell you not to mix fluids or = convert mid-stream, for the reason of contamination..... ANY dot 3 will make a gelatin substance in the fluid when mixed with dot5. RonMan
(back) Subject: Re: DOT 5 From: "Bob Cisneros" <Bob.Cisneros@Sun.COM> Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 16:13:53 -0700 (PDT) Jimc2002 writes: >I've been reading the brake fluid discussion and have a basic question. = Is >there a description somewhere the "Dot" ratings. DOT ratings: The U.S. Department Of Transportation (hence the DOT) sets the standards by which brake fluids are rated. The greatest difference between DOT 3 and DOT 4, both glycol based fluids, is the boiling point. The minimum dry boiling point for DOT 3 fluids is 400 degrees F. There are many brands that exceed this, however. The minimum boiling point for DOT 4 is 450 degrees. DOT 5, which is silicone based, is 500 degrees. How hot can your brake drums or disks get? 1300 degrees F! Systems that use DOT 3 can use DOT 4 without trouble. But you can't use DOT 3 in a system spec'd for DOT 4 due to the lower boiling point. Most American older cars are spec'd to use DOT 3. When water gets into your brake system, bad things happen. Glycol based fluids (DOT 3&4) are hygroscopic. They absorb water, and rust starts to happen. Silicone (DOT 5) does not. However, since the water doesn't get absorbed, it concentrates, or puddles in the brake system and still causes rust. Another bad thing that happens when water gets in your brake system is that it lowers the boiling point. DOT 3 with water in it drops to 284 degrees. DOT 4 drops to 311 degrees. DOT 5 goes down to 356 degrees. No matter what type fluid is in your system, it's wise to flush it at least every 2 years, though I personally would suggest every year. This because water is always finding its way into your brake system. The seals at the wheels and the master cylinder have microscopic pores through which the water can enter the system. But the biggest offender is the rubber flex line. As they age, they become more porous. If you live in a very humid area, or the car is exposed to a lot of moisture, change the fluid more often. In a DOT 5 system, the water will pool in the lowest point in the system. This is usually the calipers. The water will boil t 220 degrees, and cause vapor lock, resulting in brake failure. DOT 3 and 4 are chemically compatible. The can mix. But adding DOT 3 to your DOT 4 decreases your wet and dry boiling points. DOT 5 is not chemically compatible with the glycol fluids. The system needs to be flushed completely of the glycol when converting to DOT 5. This will probably require flushing with alcohol, followed by a compressed air drying, then flushing the replacement fluid through the system. You can find racing brake fluids that have very high dry and wet boiling points, but the are fairly expensive. One of the best moderately priced fluids, believe it or not, is Ford's Heavy Duty brake fluid. -BoB San Jose, CA 1968 convertible bob.cisneros@Sun.COM
(back) Subject: Re: Value of your gen 1 firebird From: "Joe Brown" <jb.pb@gte.net> Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 21:34:06 -0400 My car is worth more to me than I could ever sell it for , I have more = money into it than I could sell it for . some reason these cars have not hit = the high price market like the SS's , Vett'e and Hemis . My friend buy's and sells Moper's and makes money , I am saying buying a 70 cuda $9000 and selling it for 13,000 in two weeks or less , A Super Bird he bought for $20,000 and sold for $23,000 in one week . I think my car is just as nice = as his and mine is better than some , but people want to buy Chevy's and = Mopars for high dollars . You can buy a really nice Firebird restored , Matching = # for 7 to 10 thousand , the owner could have 15 into it ,but that is the = way it is .I know alot of people with Firebirds , they never talk about = selling , they drive and enjoy there ride like I do , everybody say's Oh you still have the Bird , 9 years and never thought of selling . I am done . Thanks , Joe
(back) Subject: Re: DOT 5 ...Thanks Bob!!!! From: <JGeigel@aol.com> Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 21:32:08 EDT Bob, I never knew the difference between the DOT fluids. Now I fully understand!!! thanks again Joe Geigel
(back) Subject: Re: where can I get new lower control arm bolts? From: "Joe Brown" <jb.pb@gte.net> Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 21:46:15 -0400 G.M. Dealer has them , Make sure they are Grade 8 Bolts with locking nuts = , not lock washers . Years One , all the Firebird catalog's Joe Do not use a Carriage bolt , the previous owner had them on my rear leaf springs , all 6 bolts( he had angles holding the car up where ever he went = ) , rusted so bad I broke them off with a wrench by tightening , I guess = they where not grade 8 bolts .
(back) Subject: Re: Value of your gen 1 firebird From: <BHA676@aol.com> Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 22:30:25 EDT Honestly my bird is a driver and has its fair share of paint chips and = dings and problems. But the sentimental value is high as its my first car ive bought and after all the blood ive split fixing it I dont think Id sell = it. 1967 convertible original 400 car plum mist black top and black interior = with buckets # matching engine non original th400 4 piston manual disc brakes up front and drums in the rear ps, new pst polygraphite kit and 1 1/8 sway and hp sprigs good shape but is an original unrestored car and showing the wear of 34 years. my guess is 12500 is a fair market price but I wouldnt sell it for that anyway. If the economy goes into a recession prices might go up more they did last = time. Remember the price is what the seller is willing to pay. brad
(back) Subject: Stripper--- From: "John Wern" <jwern@charter.net> Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 23:47:36 -0400 No - not that kind of stripper, I'm talking paint stripper (but I like = the way you think) - All this talk about stripping our cars and value and all. Well, I've got 10 grand in my '68 and, well, I think It's time to make it look like it's worth that much. I think - I'll paint it now. and I'm going to do it myself -- inspired by my checking account. - Anyone got = an idea of where to get the airplane paint stripper? thanks all. John.