First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List A/C parts by "Brett Luikkonen" <brett@cisdirect.com> Re: Firewall Pad by "larry diede" <ldiede@bangkok.com> Brake Booster plating by "Keith Donmoyer" <kadonny@hotmail.com> Re: Original color - Re: Brake booster plating & rebuild by <Jimc2002@aol.com> Re: where can I get new lower control arm bolts? by "Lee" <pyre400@yahoo.com> Re: fine thread vs coarse thread control arm bolts is there a by "Lee" <pyre400@yahoo.com> Please ID part #490 142 by <DelmarvaDJ@aol.com> RE RE: Power Steering Adj by "Jeff Frey" <FREYJ@mascorp.com> Re: List Server: Re: Firebird-L Digest #1895 by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Re: Power Steering Adj by "Charles Hazelton" <chuckhazelton@telocity.com> Re: Please ID part #490 142 by "Bob Cisneros" <Bob.Cisneros@Sun.COM> Re: RE RE: Power Steering Adj by "Bob Cisneros" <Bob.Cisneros@Sun.COM> boosters color by "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Monroe Swap Meet by "Jeff Frey" <FREYJ@mascorp.com> Owner Show Pages Updated (5-8-2001) by "Geoff Martin" <Geoff@firstgenfirebird.org> fine vs coarse and other problems by <BHA676@aol.com> Engine Rebuild by "Andy" <fbird68@ix.netcom.com> Re: Power Steering Adj by "Niklas Ridell" <vcc2.nridell@memo.volvo.se> Re: fine vs coarse and other problems by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> RE: Owner Show Pages Updated (5-8-2001) by "Erich Wagner" <ewagner@advancepac.com> 69 HEI Hookup Revisited by "Jeff Lane" <JeffLane32@hotmail.com>
(back) Subject: A/C parts From: "Brett Luikkonen" <brett@cisdirect.com> Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 07:09:35 -0500 Jamie, do you (or does anyone) know if the A/C parts from a 69 will fit a 68? If perhaps they will how much would you want for all the A/C stuff? = I'm doing some hunting for a friend. Brett ______________________________________________________________ Hey all, I'm doing some spring cleaning and am planning to move soon....so....I have parts that have to go. I have a complete set of seats for a '69 and most of the AC parts...check out the classifieds. Jamie
(back) Subject: Re: Firewall Pad From: "larry diede" <ldiede@bangkok.com> Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 08:07:11 -0600 I purchased a firewall pad from Ames a couple of months ago and installed = it. I have a non AC car and the paddings on my car did indeed run under = the heater case on the inside of the firewall. I found the pad that I got from Ames to be most unsatisfactory. It was a = one size fits all for several different cars. All the cutouts were pre = punched and when I got those removed for my Firebird there was no = structural strenght left in the pad (looked like swiss cheese). It just = sort of fell apart. Also the padding seperated from the rubberized = material. I went ahead and installed it (because I didn't want to blow = the whole weekend and get zero done) with a lot of contact cement, = upholstry adhesive and duct tape. But the pad was a piece of junk. I called Ames and bitched they gave me a $10.00 credit (Wow, really = changed my lifestyle, but better than a poke in the eye with a sharp = stick). They also said they knew that the pads weren't very good and that = they had a new product they were selling that was better. No consolation = for me. I still get the red ass over the whole situation when I think about it. = Replacing the firewall pad is not exactly a casual project and to get = stiffed with inferior parts for the job is unacceptable. I would check and make sure you have the newer pad. I forget the brand = brand (seems like it was alphabetical, ABC or something like that), it = cost about $29.00. (Ames said the newer pad was more money) It had some = barely legible (copied 100 times) instructions and a logo about using = superior products. Oh, also the attachment plugs were the wrong size and = unsable. Hope you have better luck than I. Larry Diede Denver, CO ----------------------------------------------- Thailand's BEST Free Email at Bangkok.com - http://mail.bangkok.com
(back) Subject: Brake Booster plating From: "Keith Donmoyer" <kadonny@hotmail.com> Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 10:26:34 -0400 Chris, Thanks, fortunately I only have to my master cylinder cover since = I have manual drums. Thanks for the info, I am going to call him for a = price. Keith 68 H.o. Subject: Brake booster plating & rebuild From: "Chris Porter" <fxstsb@qwest.net> Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 11:49:32 -0700 I had it done at a place called "Power Brake Booster Exchange", phone # 503-238-8882. He's located in Portland, Or. My booster was not gold plated when I got it, so I'm not sure how close it is to the way it came. But, a local member of our Firebird club sent me his way and said it was right on the money. I got it back in about 15 day's, all new gut's and plated in the gold pearl color. He was a good person to deal with. The price was $135 + $8 shipping. Not sure if it is the 'best' price in town, but didn't seem bad to me. Good luck Keith. Chris `68 350 H.O. Drop-top _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: Re: Original color - Re: Brake booster plating & rebuild From: <Jimc2002@aol.com> Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 10:26:39 EDT In a message dated 5/8/01 7:53:49 AM Central Daylight Time, TrimpeB@rajones.com writes: << http://www.geocities.com/bobtrimpe/Page6engine.html >> Bob and Jamie, Thanks for the replies. I think you have confirmed for me that the = original brake booster could have been gold or silver. Mine was silver like Bob's. = Bob, I did my cleanup and resto work on mine without removing it and will someday remove it and get it replated. Jim 68 400HO Conv
(back) Subject: Re: where can I get new lower control arm bolts? From: "Lee" <pyre400@yahoo.com> Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 09:26:01 -0700 (PDT) I just got done with my control arm bolts a month ago. You must get an air chisel! I used a bullet tip, and it shot the sucker right out. The front was easy, the back was a little awkward but easy just the same. Be careful not to touch the ID of the hole when nocking out the bolt, you don't wat to damage that. I purchased some grade 8 bolts and Nyloc Nuts from my Mom and Pop hardware shop. I looked at the difference between the OEM and the Grade 8 I purchased at the HW store, and the Grade 8 Jobby was fuller. It did not have the taper at the end which I assume it to make it easer to line up the control arm when reinstalling, but I just used an old bolt (ground down) to line things up then in went the Grade 8. The shoulder on the OEM had a taper on it and the Grade 8 HW jobby did not. Actually the diameter of the HW part was consistant making me believe it was a better replacement. My suspention moves freely, works just fine. It was a good deal of strain getting those bolts out though. Its hard to get into that crossmember on the back ones, but you must get an air chisel, it made days of difference on the whole project. I also used the chisel to remove the old bushings. You have to use 2 tips. One angle, and one blunt. I used the angle tip to colapse the bushing shell in 2 spots, this releves preasure on the OD of the bushing shell. Then I made sure to use the blunt tip to remove any boogers to protect the ID of the control arm when extracting, and also to further colapse the shell. Then, if the thing could not be pushed out with my hand, I used a large socket - threded rod- washers- and 3 nuts along with some lube to pull the sucker out. I found it risky, but after colapsing the shell you can aso use the air chisel to pop the bushings out by their collars at 3 points. Using the chisel took all of 2 min for each bushing, just watch for any burrs, and use a strong vice (I broke my smaller one)!! There are some things you must do to prevent tweaking the control arms when installing the new bushings, let me know if you are interested in that story... Feel free to e-mail me, I'll give the whole scoop over the phone if you would like. Good luck Lee __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices http://auctions.yahoo.com/
(back) Subject: Re: fine thread vs coarse thread control arm bolts is there a From: "Lee" <pyre400@yahoo.com> Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 10:12:28 -0700 (PDT) I would use the coarse thread... The OEMS are coarse, plus I could see the threads getting funked up when installing, if a fine threaded bolt is used. It is not too hard to align the control arms if you use a "pilot pin" made from the old bolts and a grinder, but you would still risk damaging the threads on the bushing shaft. The problem I ran into was clearance with the center link on the steering geometry. It would not let me get a clean shot with a full sized pilot, so this is why I cut it down a bit, and put a nice grind on it. I take it you were able to get the old ones out OK? Lee __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices http://auctions.yahoo.com/
(back) Subject: Please ID part #490 142 From: <DelmarvaDJ@aol.com> Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 15:57:09 EDT Someone with a parts book please let me know if this part is a passenger = side exhaust manifold for a 68 350 - - it doesn't look the quite the same as = the one on the car, and I want to make sure I have the right part before I attempt to change it. Thanks Steve Lind Ocean City MD
(back) Subject: RE RE: Power Steering Adj From: "Jeff Frey" <FREYJ@mascorp.com> Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 13:16:29 -0700 The 1-1/4" sway bar, I am being offered is off a '78 TA. Sounds too late for my '68. Think it will work? Thanks, Jeff >>>Thanks. the sway bar is not from the 81 TA, but i need to check to see for sure what the doner is. i will try to get the rag joint for free in case = it works, and will holler if i need more help. i cannot seem to find = anything in the archives about the new p/n for it. i have searched "rag joint", "steering", "coupler", "isolator".... any other suggestions. >>Frank: The sway bar wont work. Yes get the rag joint from the TA. The 80 TA rag joint worked on my 69 Firebird. A 1978 Z28 rag joint is = the same. >>Gary: If the 1-1/4 bar is from a later F body it wont fit. Rag joint is the rubber isolator disc. The late model one wont work.
(back) Subject: Re: List Server: Re: Firebird-L Digest #1895 From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 14:49:06 -0700 > >there are some pics at >www.cruzers.com/~rowan >browse the thumbnails. unfortunately, UPS since destroyed the emblems. >Rowan > > > >From: Charles Larsen <chuck@countrybible.org> >......................................................................... > >I'm a new owner of a 1967 project firebird. Just about everything on = the > >car needs to be restored or painted. It's a 3.8 liter, overhead cam >(sprint > >six). The hood emblems have been painted & repainted a couple of times = so > >that I can't tell what the originals looked like. Can anyone tell me >what > >color to paint them? It seems I have several areas to consider. The bar > >itself on which the letters rest... does that stay chrome? Is it the >color > >of the car? The 3.8 liter is it black on chrome, or vice versa? Or is = it > >white? I think the letters "overhead cam" are supposed to be white, but >I'm > >not even sure of that? I've tried to find pictures of one so I could = see, > >but haven't been able to do so. > > > >Can anyone help? > > > >Chuck > >"For I know the plans I have for you, declares the Lord: Plans to = prosper > >you, not to harm you. Plans to give you hope and a future." Jer 29:11 _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: Re: Power Steering Adj From: "Charles Hazelton" <chuckhazelton@telocity.com> Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 15:14:27 -0700 Another question for those who have made the swap to a later steering box. Can the pitman arm on a 77 TA be used or will the 68 one have to be used? Thanks, Chuck Hazelton 68 350 conv (steers like an aircraft carrier) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> To: <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001 5:56 AM Subject: Re: Power Steering Adj > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > I forgot, you need the rag joint too. > > >>> Gary@tcworks.net 05/03/01 05:16AM >>> > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > One guy has a WS-4, he says > will work direct swap and feels this is a good option. Is $75 = reasonable?
(back) Subject: Re: Please ID part #490 142 From: "Bob Cisneros" <Bob.Cisneros@Sun.COM> Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 15:36:15 -0700 (PDT) Steve Lind writes: >Someone with a parts book please let me know if this part is a passenger = side >exhaust manifold for a 68 350 - - it doesn't look the quite the same as = the >one on the car, and I want to make sure I have the right part before I >attempt to change it. Your hunch was right. My parts book says that 490142 is a 2nd gen (1970 thru 1974) right side manifold. This is unlikely to fit your chassis since the head pipe routing is different. The correct part numbers for a 1st gen 350 are 9779325 with heat riser valve, or 9777755 without the valve. -BoB San Jose, CA 1968 convertible bob.cisneros@Sun.COM
(back) Subject: Re: RE RE: Power Steering Adj From: "Bob Cisneros" <Bob.Cisneros@Sun.COM> Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 15:41:48 -0700 (PDT) Jeff Frey writes: >The 1-1/4" sway bar, I am being offered is off a '78 TA. Sounds too late >for my '68. Think it will work? Thanks, Jeff No. A sway bar from any 2nd, 3rd, or 4th gen car will not work on a 1st gen car. It will however, work on a 1964-72 A body car. As in a GTO, LeMans, Chevelle, Cutlass, etc. You need a bar from a 1st gen. F-body, or the 1968-74 X-body. As in Nova, Omega, Ventura, Apollo. -BoB San Jose, CA 1968 convertible bob.cisneros@Sun.COM
(back) Subject: boosters color From: "Gary Patrick" <Gary@tcworks.net> Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 18:55:02 -0400 The comment/question is; were there both gold and silver OEM boosters in the 1st Gen Firebirds? Jim 68 400HO Conv Jim Gold is correct. Time will fade it to silver. Steve Gregori does boosters for $100 including plating. Look in hemmings and Smoke Signals. Gary
(back) Subject: Monroe Swap Meet From: "Jeff Frey" <FREYJ@mascorp.com> Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 16:20:35 -0700 I don't know if I mentioned this before...... One of the largest swap = meets out here is at the Monroe Fairgrounds on May 19-20. I have been to this = one before and it has been excellent, with tons of stuff. I am sure the Firebird Club will be there with a booth as well. I would be happy to buy = a few beers, if any Seattle folks are headed out that way. - - Jeff
(back) Subject: Owner Show Pages Updated (5-8-2001) From: "Geoff Martin" <Geoff@firstgenfirebird.org> Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 19:34:26 -0400 Subject: Owner Show Pages Updated (5-8-2001) Added some more owners today to the First Generation Firebird Owners' Show Pages: Chris Jensen 1969 Expresso Brown Firebird 350 Coupe (http://FirstGenFirebird.org/show/closeup.mv?CarID=3D165) ------------------- Enjoy - Geoff '68 Mayfair Maize Firebird 350 Convertible (http://FirstGenFirebird.org/show/closeup.mv?CarID=3D46) (Geoff@firstgenfirebird.org) More information about adding your car or link to the owner pages: (http://FirstGenFirebird.org/firebird/owners/info.html) (Make sure to drop the "(" and ")" when using the URLs)
(back) Subject: fine vs coarse and other problems From: <BHA676@aol.com> Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 23:50:04 EDT I decided to buy the correct bolts as my old ones worked great these = past 3 decades. I am very impressed with the toughness. In fact they dont = want to come out! Ive banged on, heated, bought an impact wrench with 500 = ftlbs of torque, and finally today I bought torch cutting blades for my sawzall = and went to work. Unfortunately I think i heat treated them when I used propane on them... Either that or they are very frickin hard, ive gone though all 5 blades and am only 80% though the first of four cuts!!!!!!!!! = Ok is there a better way to do this or do I need to spend 50 bucks on = blades and 5 hours trying not to hit anything important?? Im not buying any more = air tools as the budget is gone. brad
(back) Subject: Engine Rebuild From: "Andy" <fbird68@ix.netcom.com> Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 22:30:16 -0700 It looks like I'm finally ready to have my '68 400 rebuilt. I got a quote today from the rebuilder, and I just wanted to run this by the list as a sanity check. The goal is to do a high quality, but essentially stock, rebuild. I'm going to keep the Quadrajet and factory intake, along with the stock 16 heads. I will replace the log exhaust manifolds with long-branch. I'm looking for a rebuild that is at least as powerful as when it was new, but be able to run on 92 octane without having to limit the advance curve as I have to now. The rebuilder says he can accomplish this by using Comp Cam's 252H. It has an advertised duration of 252 with a .452 lift and 110 degrees lobe separation. The operating range is 800 to 4800 RPM, which is appropriate for how I'll drive the car. He says it is the cam he uses most often for these kinds of rebuilds. I'd appreciate any opinions on the choice of cam in accomplishing the above goal. The rest of the rebuild will include the usual: new pistons, rings, main and cam bearings, freeze plugs, oil pump, lifters, roller timing chain, new valves, guides, seats, etc. I'm going to have everything port matched, the block square decked, and the rotating assembly will be balanced. And, of course, whatever else is found once they get in there. I'd appreciate opinions, suggestions, warnings, etc. Thanks, Andy
(back) Subject: Re: Power Steering Adj From: "Niklas Ridell" <vcc2.nridell@memo.volvo.se> Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 08:06:33 +0200 The steering box I used from a '84 Bird had a straight longer arm. That one for sure wouldn't fit my 68 so I used the old curved original pitman arm. /Niklas chuckhazelton@telocity.com wrote: > Another question for those who have made the swap to a later steering = box. > Can the pitman arm on a 77 TA be used or will the 68 one have to be = used? > Thanks, > Chuck Hazelton > 68 350 conv (steers like an aircraft carrier)
(back) Subject: Re: fine vs coarse and other problems From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 00:14:42 -0700 Good quality GM bolts...I had to twist with all my strrength to break a = seat belt bolt... If you can borrow a high speed die ginder, or oxyacetylene torch that = might be easier. Carefull where the gas line crosses under the engine though. Rowan >From: BHA676@aol.com > I decided to buy the correct bolts as my old ones worked great these = >past >3 decades. I am very impressed with the toughness. In fact they dont = want >to come out! Ive banged on, heated, bought an impact wrench with 500 >ftlbs >of torque, and finally today I bought torch cutting blades for my = sawzall >and went to work. Unfortunately I think i heat treated them when I used >propane on them... Either that or they are very frickin hard, ive gone >though all 5 blades and am only 80% though the first of four = cuts!!!!!!!!! >Ok is there a better way to do this or do I need to spend 50 bucks on >blades >and 5 hours trying not to hit anything important?? Im not buying any more = >air >tools as the budget is gone. > >brad _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: RE: Owner Show Pages Updated (5-8-2001) From: "Erich Wagner" <ewagner@advancepac.com> Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 08:20:22 -0400 Erich Wagner '67 Firebird 326 Convertible e-mail: ewagner@advancepac.com <mailto:ewagner@advancepac.com> or honus@fuse.net <mailto:honus@fuse.net> Chris Jensen 1969 Expresso Brown Firebird 350 Coupe (http://FirstGenFirebird.org/show/closeup.mv?CarID=3D165) I'd say you got quite a deal Chris. Was Espresso Brown an original color in '69?
(back) Subject: 69 HEI Hookup Revisited From: "Jeff Lane" <JeffLane32@hotmail.com> Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 08:46:41 -0400 I know this has been beaten to death and I've searched all the archives on the CP site, but thought I bring this up here because it pertains to just the 69 FB and I'm still confused. Just installed an HEI and was curious if anyone else could share their experience with hooking it up to 12 volts. 69 Wiring Diagram http://www.locl.net/homes/sapple/69wirindex.html Here is what I have found so far: 1.) Jump the black/pink wire (which is the real resistance wire) to the yellow wire near the ignition switch as electricity will go the path of least resistance. Yellow must be start and black/pink must be run. From = the wiring diagram these two wires run in parallel and connect at the fuse box to the black/purple wire which went to the coil in the engine compartment. Would it make more sense to just replace the black/pink and black/purple wire with a 12 or 14 gauge wire? Or would this be a pain? 2.) Setup a home made relay switch in the engine compartment with the black/purple wire that went to the coil connected to the switch along with = a ground and a wire connected right to the battery. Not sure if I like this = as some others reported that the car would not shut off completely because of some kind of electricity leak. 3.) Tap the big Pink wire coming out of the fuse box. Anyone have complete instructions who has done this successfully? I'd = really appreciate it. Thanks again, Jeff.