First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List Re: Power Steering Adj by "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Re: 69 HEI Hookup Revisited by "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Re: fine vs coarse and other problems by "larry diede" <ldiede@bangkok.com> Parts #s by "Tom McLaughlin" <thomas.mclaughlin@wmich.edu> Re: Re: Power Steering Adj by "larry diede" <ldiede@bangkok.com> RE: Firebird-L Digest #1897 by "Jason Rogers" <jason.rogers@york.com> Re: Engine Rebuild by "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> I'm Back!!! by <joseph.f.rotman@household.com> Cocktail Shakers by <joseph.f.rotman@household.com> Subframe body mount holes by "Todd Chynoweth" <pinec@pitnet.net> Where can I get a glove box door? by "Provost, Marty" <MProvost@LiquidGolf.com> Monroe swap meet by "Chris Porter" <fxstsb@qwest.net> RE: Where can I get a glove box door? by "Erich Wagner" <ewagner@advancepac.com> Re: 69 HEI Hookup Revisited by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Re: Where can I get a glove box door? by "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Parting out - 67 Firebird by "Ken Reimer" <kreimer@uniserve.com> Re: Subframe body mount holes by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Re: Monroe swap meet by <joseph.f.rotman@household.com> Re: Parts #s by <Framair@aol.com> Re: Cocktail Shakers by <Framair@aol.com> Re: 69 HEI Hookup Revisited by "Bob Cisneros" <Bob.Cisneros@Sun.COM> Re: fine vs coarse and other problems by "Ronsoy" <Ronsoy@bellsouth.net> Re: Where can I get a glove box door? by "Bob Cisneros" <Bob.Cisneros@Sun.COM> Re: fine vs coarse and other problems by "Lee" <pyre400@yahoo.com> Re: Parting out - 67 Firebird by "Craig" <coreman@uniserve.com> Re: Where can I get a glove box door? by "Ken Reimer" <kreimer@uniserve.com> Re: 69 HEI Hookup Revisited by "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com>
(back) Subject: Re: Power Steering Adj From: "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 07:53:07 -0500 You use your factor/original pitman arm. The 70 and up F bodies are front = steer or the tie rods are to the front of the wheels. >>> chuckhazelton@telocity.com 05/08/01 05:14PM >>> First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List .......................................................................... Another question for those who have made the swap to a later steering box. Can the pitman arm on a 77 TA be used or will the 68 one have to be used? Thanks, Chuck Hazelton 68 350 conv (steers like an aircraft carrier) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> To: <Firebird-L@oakmediacreations.com> Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001 5:56 AM Subject: Re: Power Steering Adj > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > I forgot, you need the rag joint too. > > >>> Gary@tcworks.net 05/03/01 05:16AM >>> > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > One guy has a WS-4, he says > will work direct swap and feels this is a good option. Is $75 = reasonable?
(back) Subject: Re: 69 HEI Hookup Revisited From: "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 08:12:03 -0500 I just cut back the wire to the coil and put a new section in with the = matching terminal for the HEI. I have 12 volts. I pretty sure the last = section of the wire is the resistive part. Once you eliminate it you will = have 12 volts. >>> JeffLane32@hotmail.com 05/09/01 07:46AM >>> First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List .......................................................................... I know this has been beaten to death and I've searched all the archives on the CP site, but thought I bring this up here because it pertains to just the 69 FB and I'm still confused. Just installed an HEI and was curious if anyone else could share their experience with hooking it up to 12 volts. 69 Wiring Diagram http://www.locl.net/homes/sapple/69wirindex.html Here is what I have found so far: 1.) Jump the black/pink wire (which is the real resistance wire) to the yellow wire near the ignition switch as electricity will go the path of least resistance. Yellow must be start and black/pink must be run. From = the wiring diagram these two wires run in parallel and connect at the fuse box to the black/purple wire which went to the coil in the engine compartment. Would it make more sense to just replace the black/pink and black/purple wire with a 12 or 14 gauge wire? Or would this be a pain? 2.) Setup a home made relay switch in the engine compartment with the black/purple wire that went to the coil connected to the switch along with = a ground and a wire connected right to the battery. Not sure if I like this = as some others reported that the car would not shut off completely because of some kind of electricity leak. 3.) Tap the big Pink wire coming out of the fuse box. Anyone have complete instructions who has done this successfully? I'd = really appreciate it. Thanks again, Jeff. -----
(back) Subject: Re: fine vs coarse and other problems From: "larry diede" <ldiede@bangkok.com> Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 07:46:56 -0600 Get an acetylene tourch and get the bolt ends red hot. Do a couple of = heat cycles on each bolt and apply a hammer to the ends as they cool. = Propane won't get them hot enough. Once they start moving keep them going = with a large drift punch. You will never get them out with rotation, as = the heat breaks the rubber bushing bond (if time has not done that = already) and they just spin in place. Also might spray into/towards the bushing with WD-40 as they cool down. = This will draw the lubricant into the space between the bolt and the = bushing. Propane won't get them hot enough. The rubber will probably = start to burn so keep some water handy and vent the smoke. I've removed = bolts from spring eyes and other rubber/steel bushed suspension parts this = way. It is messy. Hit hard. Cuss loud. Good luck. Larry Diede Denver, CO ----------------------------------------------- Thailand's BEST Free Email at Bangkok.com - http://mail.bangkok.com
(back) Subject: Parts #s From: "Tom McLaughlin" <thomas.mclaughlin@wmich.edu> Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 09:46:29 -0400 Hello List, I hope someone can help me out with this one. I have a 1967 Firebird Convertible. A friend of mine that used to work for GM gave me copies of exploded view diagrams that showed all the parts numbers for the car. I haven't been able to find this, and was wondering if someone else might have this in a scanned transferrable file. I would sure appreciate it. If not, is this information available in a text book? Regards, Tom McLaughlin
(back) Subject: Re: Re: Power Steering Adj From: "larry diede" <ldiede@bangkok.com> Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 07:50:12 -0600 Not only that but 67 and 68 used a male/female pitman arm and later models = used female/female. Larry Diede Denver, CO ----------------------------------------------- Thailand's BEST Free Email at Bangkok.com - http://mail.bangkok.com
(back) Subject: RE: Firebird-L Digest #1897 From: "Jason Rogers" <jason.rogers@york.com> Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 10:47:21 -0400 Subject: Owner Show Pages Updated (5-8-2001) From: "Geoff Martin" <Geoff@firstgenfirebird.org> Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 19:34:26 -0400 Subject: Owner Show Pages Updated (5-8-2001) Added some more owners today to the First Generation Firebird Owners' Show Pages: Chris Jensen 1969 Expresso Brown Firebird 350 Coupe (http://FirstGenFirebird.org/show/closeup.mv?CarID=3D165) Chris, you should be arrested for theft. Nice find.
(back) Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild From: "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 10:16:38 -0500 I would say find a new engine builder. Get the KB pistons to lower you = static compression to no higher than 9.2 to 1. KB sells dished pistons. = I would look at the new Comp Cams xtrem energy cams with a split duration = (xe256) or the summit 2800 with is the same as the Edelbrock performer = cam. Get the matching valve springs. >>> fbird68@ix.netcom.com 05/09/01 12:30AM >>> First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List .......................................................................... It looks like I'm finally ready to have my '68 400 rebuilt. I got a quote today from the rebuilder, and I just wanted to run this by the list as a sanity check. The goal is to do a high quality, but essentially stock, rebuild. I'm going to keep the Quadrajet and factory intake, along with the stock 16 heads. I will replace the log exhaust manifolds with long-branch. I'm looking for a rebuild that is at least as powerful as when it was new, but be able to run on 92 octane without having to limit the advance curve as I have to now. The rebuilder says he can accomplish this by using Comp Cam's 252H. It has an advertised duration of 252 with a .452 lift and 110 degrees lobe separation. The operating range is 800 to 4800 RPM, which is appropriate for how I'll drive the car. He says it is the cam he uses most often for these kinds of rebuilds. I'd appreciate any opinions on the choice of cam in accomplishing the above goal. The rest of the rebuild will include the usual: new pistons, rings, main and cam bearings, freeze plugs, oil pump, lifters, roller timing chain, new valves, guides, seats, etc. I'm going to have everything port matched, the block square decked, and the rotating assembly will be balanced. And, of course, whatever else is found once they get in there. I'd appreciate opinions, suggestions, warnings, etc. Thanks, Andy
(back) Subject: I'm Back!!! From: <joseph.f.rotman@household.com> Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 11:13:33 -0500 Hey all. I changed jobs and finally got e-mail here. I am sorry I = missed the Chicago get together and missed seeing Hugo's bird. I hope someone took pics!!! Joe Rotman 68 Firebird 350 Convertible
(back) Subject: Cocktail Shakers From: <joseph.f.rotman@household.com> Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 11:14:28 -0500 Anyone know if there is any difference between 69 cocktail shakers and 68 or 67 shakers? Joe Rotman 68 firebird 350 Convertible
(back) Subject: Subframe body mount holes From: "Todd Chynoweth" <pinec@pitnet.net> Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 12:38:35 -0500 I was wondering what method of repairs have worked well for rusted out subframe body mount holes? If someone has a nice subframe apart could they measure where the hole center is with reference to the front of the mount and inside edge of the frame. for the front ones and some reference for the rear centers I am not sure what landmarks would work best. Thank You Todd
(back) Subject: Where can I get a glove box door? From: "Provost, Marty" <MProvost@LiquidGolf.com> Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 13:40:12 -0400 Anyone know where I can get a glove box door for a 67? My car didn't come with one! ;) None of the big guys seem to sell them. Thanks a lot! -Marty 455 67 Coupe
(back) Subject: Monroe swap meet From: "Chris Porter" <fxstsb@qwest.net> Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 11:49:08 -0700 >I would be happy to buy a >few beers, if any Seattle folks are headed out that way. > - - Jeff You'd better have Bill Gates check book ;-). I'm in the WWF, they barely talk about Bird's LOL ! Chris `68 350 H.O. Drop-top
(back) Subject: RE: Where can I get a glove box door? From: "Erich Wagner" <ewagner@advancepac.com> Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 15:05:34 -0400 Subject: Where can I get a glove box door? If you are interested in used try Mad Man's Auto Parts (513)738-3000. He is kind of pricey but he has a few 'Birds' sitting in yard and some of them might have glove box doors. Also, would a Camaro door work? You might try that angle. Erich Wagner '67 Firebird 326 Convertible e-mail: ewagner@advancepac.com <mailto:ewagner@advancepac.com> or honus@fuse.net <mailto:honus@fuse.net>
(back) Subject: Re: 69 HEI Hookup Revisited From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 12:54:02 -0700 GM uses a #12 (pink) wire. This is because HEI can soak up a lot more = jiuce than a point system. I like to use the fat pink wire from a donor car. Adding a pin to the bulkhead connector and using a blank fuse port would = be the slickest way to go (anyone know where to get the grease/goo that connector is packed with?). On our cars, I think a cood sure source of energy would be to tap into the main relay on the firewall. Pink wire at the fuse box also should be good, isn't it nice of them to be so = consistent with wiring colors?. It is possible that the small feed wire coould cause misfire with a hot, lean, high RPM (or some combination) condition. It would be tough to = prove, and I've never seen positive evidence it is a problem. An engine fore from the little wire catching fire would not be worth the cost...I'd stick with something as good as GM used even if it is overkill. IF your distributor is used, check the advance weights move freely, that seems to be the only pattern problem with HEI, unless you count cap an = rotor burning up from firing lean burning cars. Rowan >From: "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> >I just cut back the wire to the coil and put a new section in with the >matching terminal for the HEI. I have 12 volts. I pretty sure the last >section of the wire is the resistive part. Once you eliminate it you = will >have 12 volts. > > >>> JeffLane32@hotmail.com 05/09/01 07:46AM >>> >First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List >......................................................................... >I know this has been beaten to death and I've searched all the archives = on >the CP site, but thought I bring this up here because it pertains to just >the 69 FB and I'm still confused. Just installed an HEI and was curious = if >anyone else could share their experience with hooking it up to 12 volts. > >69 Wiring Diagram http://www.locl.net/homes/sapple/69wirindex.html > >Here is what I have found so far: > >1.) Jump the black/pink wire (which is the real resistance wire) to the >yellow wire near the ignition switch as electricity will go the path of >least resistance. Yellow must be start and black/pink must be run. From = the >wiring diagram these two wires run in parallel and connect at the fuse = box >to the black/purple wire which went to the coil in the engine = compartment. >Would it make more sense to just replace the black/pink and black/purple >wire with a 12 or 14 gauge wire? Or would this be a pain? > >2.) Setup a home made relay switch in the engine compartment with the >black/purple wire that went to the coil connected to the switch along = with >a >ground and a wire connected right to the battery. Not sure if I like this = >as >some others reported that the car would not shut off completely because = of >some kind of electricity leak. > >3.) Tap the big Pink wire coming out of the fuse box. > >Anyone have complete instructions who has done this successfully? I'd >really >appreciate it. Thanks again, Jeff. > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: Re: Where can I get a glove box door? From: "Frank Zeller" <fzeller@tri-austin.com> Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 15:09:43 -0500 Ebay >>> MProvost@LiquidGolf.com 05/09/01 12:40PM >>> First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List .......................................................................... Anyone know where I can get a glove box door for a 67? My car didn't come with one! ;) None of the big guys seem to sell them. Thanks a lot! -Marty 455 67 Coupe ---
(back) Subject: Parting out - 67 Firebird From: "Ken Reimer" <kreimer@uniserve.com> Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 13:15:55 -0700 Just received a 67 Firebird, parting it out, let me know if you need anything, please be patient for answers. Ken
(back) Subject: Re: Subframe body mount holes From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 13:16:43 -0700 Front mount measuring on the top of the mount: 1 1/2" hole 1" back from leading edge of mount to forward edge of hole 1" forward from trailing edge of mount to back edge of hole 1" out from frame to inner edge of hole 23" forward from near edge of locating pin hole near rear mount(about 4'forward of rear bushing) to back edge of mount bracket (with tape held paralell to top outside edge of framerail, using a square to reach inboard = to locating hole. Rear mount: the hole is a little bigger, and the edges of the hole are 1" from the nearest edge of the frame, inside, outside, and rear. Id be torn between using some metal laying around the garage, and going to = Pick n Pull and hacksawing a mount off a less rusty Nova car. Hope this helps, Rowan >From: "Todd Chynoweth" <pinec@pitnet.net> >......................................................................... >I was wondering what method of repairs have worked >well for rusted out subframe body mount holes? > >If someone has a nice subframe apart could they measure where the hole >center is with reference to the front of the mount and inside edge of = the >frame. >for the front ones > >and some reference for the rear centers I am not sure what landmarks = would >work best. >Thank You >Todd > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
(back) Subject: Re: Monroe swap meet From: <joseph.f.rotman@household.com> Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 16:00:05 -0500 Chris, you are in the WWF??? LOL No way!
(back) Subject: Re: Parts #s From: <Framair@aol.com> Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 17:17:05 EDT From: thomas.mclaughlin@wmich.edu (Tom McLaughlin) >A friend of mine that used to work for GM gave me copies >of exploded view diagrams that showed all the parts numbers for the >car. I haven't been able to find this, and was wondering if someone >else might have this in a scanned transferrable file. I would sure >appreciate it. If not, is this information available in a text book? ....Sounds like info from a Factory Parts Catalog. Currently, there are no 'text' books or restoration books that show ALL illustrated parts with numbers. Too bad you lost these sheets; might have been factory assembly sheets. John FRamair@aol.com Semper Fi Ephesians 4:32
(back) Subject: Re: Cocktail Shakers From: <Framair@aol.com> Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 17:24:19 EDT From: joseph.f.rotman@household.com >Anyone know if there is any difference between 69 cocktail shakers and 68 >or 67 shakers? ....Yes. All (3) years used different part numbers. Not sure if the changes involved the weight or not but I believe the = fronts were different due to mounting positions. I know on a '68 there are unique mounting brackets (Frt) to the inner = fender. John FRamair@aol.com Semper Fi Ephesians 4:32
(back) Subject: Re: 69 HEI Hookup Revisited From: "Bob Cisneros" <Bob.Cisneros@Sun.COM> Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 14:39:59 -0700 (PDT) Rowan writes: > (anyone know where to get the grease/goo that connector is packed with?). It's probably dialectric grease, which Permatex and others sell in tiny to medium sized tubes. This stuff is great for assuring good electical contact and keeping out moisture. You can get it an virtually any auto parts store. Look in the section where the Loctite, adhesives, sealants, and other goo are displayed. -BoB San Jose, CA 1968 convertible bob.cisneros@Sun.COM
(back) Subject: Re: fine vs coarse and other problems From: "Ronsoy" <Ronsoy@bellsouth.net> Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 18:27:11 -0400 Try using a die grinder. RonMan
(back) Subject: Re: Where can I get a glove box door? From: "Bob Cisneros" <Bob.Cisneros@Sun.COM> Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 15:34:37 -0700 (PDT) Marty writes: >Anyone know where I can get a glove box door for a 67? No one reproduces this. But most of the used Firebird parts sellers should be able to get you a nice used one. Try one of these guys: >Bill's Birds 1021 Commack Rd, Dix Hills, NY 11746 631 667 3853 >Camaro/Firebird Specialties <http://www.camaros.com/fire_cat.html> (716-652-7086) East Aurora, NY. >Chicago Muscle Car Parts (847)526-2200 912 E. Burnett Road, Island Lake, IL 60042 >Frank's Pontiac Parts (760-789-0669) fax(760-789-0110) 1150 9th Street, Ramona, CA 92065, vistors by appointment only. >Steve Hansen- Hansen's Pontiac parts- 925 634-6012. cars and parts for sale; www.bcity.com/pontiac personal webpage; www.pontiaconline.com/members/72 e-mail: transams@cctrap.com GM Sports Salvage 800-427-9194 * 408-432-8498 1964 Old Oakland Rd., San Jose, CA <http://www.gmsports.com/> Deluxe interior cars seemed most likely to have had the bird emblem on the glovebox. So, if your car has/had this interior, ask for a door had has the emblem, or at least the holes for it. -BoB San Jose, CA 1968 convertible bob.cisneros@Sun.COM
(back) Subject: Re: fine vs coarse and other problems From: "Lee" <pyre400@yahoo.com> Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 15:44:19 -0700 (PDT) Rowan :) Good quality loctite!! They put the green stuff on the belts, and ther's not much to grab on to with those bolts. The head on those bolts is about 1/8 of an inch so you really have to push down to get a grip.. I about broke my hand getting my belts out. I ended up pulling out the impact for the others. ---original message--- Good quality GM bolts...I had to twist with all my strrength to break a seat belt bolt... If you can borrow a high speed die ginder, or oxyacetylene torch that might be easier. Carefull where the gas line crosses under the engine though. Rowan __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices http://auctions.yahoo.com/
(back) Subject: Re: Parting out - 67 Firebird From: "Craig" <coreman@uniserve.com> Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 16:07:10 -0700 Hey Ken, Craig from Vancouver Core, If thats a 2 spd console car I could use the neutral safety/backup light switch under the console and a side view mirror. Let me know. Ken Reimer wrote: > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List > = ......................................................................... > Just received a 67 Firebird, parting it out, let me know if you need > anything, please be patient for answers.
(back) Subject: Re: Where can I get a glove box door? From: "Ken Reimer" <kreimer@uniserve.com> Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 16:33:32 -0700 At 03:34 PM 5/9/2001 -0700, you wrote: >First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List >......................................................................... > > >Marty writes: >>Anyone know where I can get a glove box door for a 67? Marty, I have a 1/2 dozen here, what would you like, with or without 'bird, what color? Located in Langley, BC. Regards, Ken
(back) Subject: Re: 69 HEI Hookup Revisited From: "x1r1 x" <x1r1@hotmail.com> Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 16:47:35 -0700 might be a dielectric grease, but it is black and lasts 30 years with no sign of decay. Seems the same as the stuff on the new cars... >From: Bob Cisneros <Bob.Cisneros@Sun.COM> > >Rowan writes: > > (anyone know where to get the grease/goo that >connector is packed with?). > >It's probably dialectric grease, which Permatex and others >sell in tiny to medium sized tubes. This stuff is great for >assuring good electical contact and keeping out moisture. > >You can get it an virtually any auto parts store. Look in >the section where the Loctite, adhesives, sealants, and >other goo are displayed. > >-BoB San Jose, CA > 1968 convertible > > bob.cisneros@Sun.COM _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com