I am wondering who all is using solid body bushings and if you are using them, do you also have solids under the Radiator support or rubber? I plan on putting in a sub frame connector and I will be using the solid body bushings, but I am a little confused if the solids should also be under the rad support assy?
I am wondering who all is using solid body bushings and if you are using them, do you also have solids under the Radiator support or rubber? I plan on putting in a sub frame connector ao I will be using the solid body bushings, but I am a little confused if the solids should also be under the rad support assy?
I have solid in all of the locations on my car. It rides great. Newer cars do not have sub-frame bushings they are welded right to the frame. You get enough cushion out of your suspension and tires for a good ride. Sub frame connectors will do little with rubber bushings in my opinion.
I came across info the other day that there was a new option between poly and solid bushings. New bushings made out of ballistic (bulletproof vest) materials. It might have been that very last issue of HPP.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
I used poly bushings at all 6 points. Stiffened things up quite a bit, considering the original "rubbers" were gone and you could feel the subframe shift under you around hard corners or bumps.
Don't think you really need solid mounts and subframe connectors unless you plan to road race or drag race...just my .02.
Don't think you really need solid mounts and subframe connectors unless you plan to road race or drag race...just my .02.
When I researched subframe connectors, I found universal instructions to use a solid bushing at least at the rear most subframe mount when using welded-in connectors. Otherwise the subframe connector welds would crack and fail.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
hmmmm, I wonder why? I just went under and took a look as it's on jack stands anyway. Mine are welded to the subframe back there I wouldn't think one type would cause a weld crack any more than another.
You still have the entire sub-frame, motor, and transmissions weight hanging out on rubber mounts. Those mounts do have a little give in them with all of the weight and torque of the car moving. If the frame is not mounted solid all the way to the front there has to be some give some where.
LOL Went to put solids on my 68 street/strip car. Had welded in frame connectors when I bought it. Couldn't put in the rear's. Did use at core support. Limited street use, but no prob's in 5 yrs.