Mine is dropping down when I close the door. I want to take the glass out and tighten it. How in the heck does one get the thin snap ring out from in front of the glass?
It might not be a snap ring, it may be a finish trim for the glass. Most mirrors are glued in these days. Maybe someone has a broken one that can be taken apart to check. Most glass shops will cut a new mirror for around $15 and you just glue it in. Neill
I bought them from Ames or one of the other suppliers, can't remember which. They advertised them as having the correct GM style snap ring to hold the glass in. I'll have to go through my records and check who I got them from then ask if I have to break the glass to remove the ring. I can move the ring but can't get a tool behind it to remove it. I assume there's a way to tighten the mirror once the glass is out?
You mean the mirror housing and the pivot ball is loose? You can use some clear silicone or JB Weld in the pivot ball area and move the mirror around to spread the material. If using JB weld...use a little and will set the mirror firm. Silicone will allow some adjustment.
Si Vis Pacem Parabellum
1967 Starlight black PMD Engineering 400 Auto 1968 Alpine Blue 400 4 speed 1968 Verdoro Green 400 HO 4 speed 2013 1LE 2SS/RS Inferno Orange Camaro.
Yes I am referring to the pivot ball. There should be an adjustment screw that tightens the glass housing onto the ball. More modern mirrors with bonded glass have a screw in the back of the pedestal through the ball to tighten, some had three screws on the back of the housing to tighten the friction plate. Older mirrors with removable glass should have a screw under the glass to tighten the housing. I repeat, should have, I don't know if these ones do for certain. If I can ever get the glass out I'll tell.
I got an answer from Classic Industries, they suggest I use silicon but did not tell me how to get the glass out. I'd rather tighten it than put silicon on but...?
Banshee, When you say clear silicon are you talking about Permatex gasket maker type, or kitchen and bath sink sealer, or floor tile liquid silicon sealer, or...? Seems to me the Permatex would not look that nice but I'll try whatever you're using.
Another option....used to make lead sinkers. Melt some lead and try that. Set mirror face down. Grab a sinker with pliers and use a torch to melt the lead directly into the pivot ball. Could also consider copper or plumbing solder.
Si Vis Pacem Parabellum
1967 Starlight black PMD Engineering 400 Auto 1968 Alpine Blue 400 4 speed 1968 Verdoro Green 400 HO 4 speed 2013 1LE 2SS/RS Inferno Orange Camaro.
I have also found that small shims of aluminum foil will "fix" items that fit together, but are not tight enough for my taste.
The shifter knob at the top of the '67 floor shifter is my best example. It's spring loaded and at first like to launch itself off the shifter. I have since "shimmed" it with foil and it's good to go. Another was the knob for the headlight switch.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
Well I took the mirror off and while I was trying to get the glass out my wife came over to the work bench and said "try these'. She gave me a pair of tweezers like little duck bill pliers. I pushed them against the glass grabbed the snap ring and it came right out. The glass, backing plate and pad are held against the snap ring by three springs. All one has to do is push the glass in and grab the snap ring with a pair of tweezers or miniature pliers. There is a pivot dish held in with two screws, I tightened them and presto!
Well I took the mirror off and while I was trying to get the glass out my wife came over to the work bench and said "try these'. She gave me a pair of tweezers like little duck bill pliers. I pushed them against the glass grabbed the snap ring and it came right out. The glass, backing plate and pad are held against the snap ring by three springs. All one has to do is push the glass in and grab the snap ring with a pair of tweezers or miniature pliers. There is a pivot dish held in with two screws, I tightened them and presto!
Those are "eyebrow" tweezers. Thanks for the info and glad it worked out.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
Those screws had not loosened off they were glued in already. Looks like the part of the housing that the pivot ball rotates on is deforming, after market not the quality of original GM. I got these from Ames, part number FF 35 3A, I'm sure it's the same as Classic Industries F353. Three studs cast into the housing hold the bottom of the springs, the backing plate ,rubber like pad and glass rest on the springs. I pushed the glass down and installed the ring. The glass wedged itself into the housing but tapping the mirror face down on a towel lying on the workbench moved it out against the ring.