I am putting on an aftermarket fuel line and filter from the fuel pump to the carb and ran into a few plumbing/routing snags with the set-up I want to use. I think I have everything figured out, but my concern is that a portion of the metal fuel line leading from the carb touches ever so slightly the front of the intake manifold (see pic below, inside white circle). As some on this board already know, I am a complete amateur when it comes to this stuff, and I am learning as I go. Are there any problems I need to be concerned about in regard to the fuel line slightly touching the manifold? Or is this okay? As always, thanks for keeping me out of trouble!
Just below and to the left of your circle is a threaded hole in the intake manifold that whispers to me "Craft up a support bracket". That's a lot of pretty blue fuel line hardware that's dangling in space.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
Just below and to the left of your circle is a threaded hole in the intake manifold that whispers to me "Craft up a support bracket". That's a lot of pretty blue fuel line hardware that's dangling in space.
Yeah, I did have that concern originally, but after connecting everything, there doesn't appear to be any stress in that area (maybe because the aluminum fittings are so light?).
Thoughts on that 45 degree elbow fitting barely coming in contact with the manifold? Do think I run the risk of the fuel boiling, vapor lock, etc.?
That's why I would put the bracket there - to create some clearance that would eliminate all concerns. The secondary goal would be support for that assembly.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
That's why I would put the bracket there - to create some clearance that would eliminate all concerns. The secondary goal would be support for that assembly.
Not sure if a bracket there would do much good. The line at that point really doesn't have upward/vertical mobility to lift off the manifold.
You might be able to bend the silvery tubing. That's probably chrome plated copper which is pretty soft. I have the same issue but worse with mine and had to bend things a little.
You might be able to bend the silvery tubing. That's probably chrome plated copper which is pretty soft. I have the same issue but worse with mine and had to bend things a little.
Thanks for the suggestion Bob. I may give that a try. I won't have to bend it much as it is barely touching that high point in the manifold.
No worries about heating fuel. Next time you go for ride pop your hood and put your hand on the intake. Even cast iron intakes don't get hot enough to worry about. Aluminum will convey even less heat. I would worry about vibration and eventually rubbing a hole in the tube. I have think salmon's idea would take care of that.
Is that a steel braided line from the pump up to the filter fittings? Looks like you still have to put your rad hose and thermostat housing on. Do you have the rest of the components attached up front? You might want all that on before routing the fuel line.
I had the same manifold with a spacer and it had clearance. I now have an RPM manifold, there's just enough clearance to have the filter on the inlet tube.
Like Bob says, you may be able to slightly bend the inlet tube if it can't be loosened and rotated up a bit to eliminate the fitting chaffing on the manifold.
No worries about heating fuel. Next time you go for ride pop your hood and put your hand on the intake. Even cast iron intakes don't get hot enough to worry about. Aluminum will convey even less heat. I would worry about vibration and eventually rubbing a hole in the tube. I have think salmon's idea would take care of that.
Robert- thanks for the guidance and input. Good point on possibly rubbing a hole in the tube. Didn't even think of that.
Is that a steel braided line from the pump up to the filter fittings? Looks like you still have to put your rad hose and thermostat housing on. Do you have the rest of the components attached up front? You might want all that on before routing the fuel line.
I had the same manifold with a spacer and it had clearance. I now have an RPM manifold, there's just enough clearance to have the filter on the inlet tube.
Like Bob says, you may be able to slightly bend the inlet tube if it can't be loosened and rotated up a bit to eliminate the fitting chaffing on the manifold.
Bluebird- It is a steel braided from the pump and you are right about the hoses, therm housing, etc. not on. I've been trying to do a dry run on the line first. But, as you suggest, I will hook up all of the components before fully routing the fuel line. Thanks again for the help.
I say use s steel braided line rather than a rigid line. That's just me.
Hansee- Thanks. I'm running a steel braided from the pump to the steel inlet tube and filter. The steel inlet tube and filter is an Edelbrock pre fitted set up with a banjo fitting to the carb.
Maybe Holleys are not as peticular but I had issues with the last spacer I tried to use with my Qjet. I'm just saying you might want to ask around about what is the right spacer to use if you go that route.
Al, I can't belive that all fits under your hood. Dude that's crazy.
Hey Bernie, do they make a 45 degree AN fitting with a male thread on one end? You could eliminate the nipple that way and maybe get some more clearance by attaching the 45 directly into the carb feed tube. Pics can be deceiving but it looks like a lot of fittings, you gotta do whatever it takes, but can you turn the first 45 a bit and attach the filter directly to it and eliminate the second 45 and unions?
A spacer will give you an inch more clearance but I think they should be used for performance reasons. Just my opinion, I'm not an expert.
Yeah It all fits under the hood, just. I'd like to have a car with a hole in the hood and a blower sticking out but I don't have a rich uncle and I didn't marry money. Sigh.
Maybe Holleys are not as peticular but I had issues with the last spacer I tried to use with my Qjet. I'm just saying you might want to ask around about what is the right spacer to use if you go that route.
Al, I can't belive that all fits under your hood. Dude that's crazy.
I don't think I'm gonna go the spacer route. My "small" project of detailing the engine bay has really started to snowball (no surprise there, right?) and I'm not sure I want to tackle trying to figure that one out. I think I can step the line up to get the clearance I need by using two 90 fittings.
Hey Bernie, do they make a 45 degree AN fitting with a male thread on one end? You could eliminate the nipple that way and maybe get some more clearance by attaching the 45 directly into the carb feed tube. Pics can be deceiving but it looks like a lot of fittings, you gotta do whatever it takes, but can you turn the first 45 a bit and attach the filter directly to it and eliminate the second 45 and unions?
A spacer will give you an inch more clearance but I think they should be used for performance reasons. Just my opinion, I'm not an expert.
Yeah It all fits under the hood, just. I'd like to have a car with a hole in the hood and a blower sticking out but I don't have a rich uncle and I didn't marry money. Sigh.
Bluebird- I just looked at the catalog and they do have a 45 degree AN 6 male/female fitting, so that might work (male end fits to the inlet and female fits to the filter). I think what I may do is use two 90 degree AN 6 male/female connectors to form a "step" over the front portion of the manifold. I've done some quick measurements and it looks like that will give me the clearance needed over the manifold and still stay below the bottom of the air filter assembly. That set up will at least give me something that is "parallel" in appearance. Thankfully Summit Racing is only about 45 minutes from me, so I'll probably head down there in the next day to get what I need and return the stuff that isn't helping (third trip trying to figure out this fuel plumbing issue). I'll certainly post some pics after I get this knocked out. Thanks again for the input.
Well that's handy, having a source so close. Some times it's just trial and error, you'll get it right. Between the fuel line, power steering cooler, oil pressure gauge and heater outlet installs I was left with a box of rather expensive fittings.
Here's what I finally decided on as everything is now all connected. I used two 90 degree fittings to stair step over the manifold for the necessary clearance. Thanks again for the input!
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI