Does anyone have a wiring schematic for the 1969 Power Convertible Top? It is not included in any 1969 wiring schematics I have seen. 67-69 are probably the same so I'll accept any. Thanks.
This is for a 68 not sure if 69 is the same. There is a black +12 wire from horn relay to 30 Amp fuse on firewall. The convertible wire harness (red) routes to this 30 Amp fuse. The harness plugs into the switch and the grey and purple from harness routes to the rear and plugs in to motor. The motor is grounded to the body.
The convertible harness is a completely separate harness and is two pieces. If purchased, there is a convertible top harness and a power lead harness and a 30 fuse that make up the circuit.
Last edited by HaroldB; 02/23/1505:33 PM. Reason: Jim beat me as I typed.
Hi has anyone had a problem with their top kicking off many times on way up or down. Seems to be getting worse. Has new cylinders, new lines,new full fluid. Motor was getting hot but now kicks off so much never gets hot. Takes 15 to 20 attempts to get up, very frustrating when weather is nice.
Not sure what you mean by 'kicking off'. Popping a fuse? Raising sideways? Groaning and not moving?
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
It does not blow a fuse it just stops working for awhile then works again. Up or down same thing. I think its the hydraulic motor probably the original as I have owned car since 1981
I would suspect the switch if that has not been changed. Best to measure with a meter at the motor and watch will you raise or lower from the switch. Lots of current going through that switch and they will go bad.
I would suspect the switch if that has not been changed. Best to measure with a meter at the motor and watch will you raise or lower from the switch. Lots of current going through that switch and they will go bad.
OK, if memory serves. I've never seen a wiring diagram for the top, but here it is. Power comes from the buss bar (horn relay) goes to an auto reset circuit breaker, then to the top switch, from there you have two wires (red & green IIRC) go to the motor. Plus a ground wire on the motor. From what you describe either the circuit breaker is bad or (as you mentioned the motor gets hot) the motor is bad and drawing too much current and tripping the circuit breaker.
-=>Lee<=- Due to budget constraints the "light at the end of the tunnel" has been turned off!
OK, if memory serves. I've never seen a wiring diagram for the top, but here it is. Power comes from the buss bar (horn relay) goes to an auto reset circuit breaker, then to the top switch, from there you have two wires (red & green IIRC) go to the motor. Plus a ground wire on the motor. From what you describe either the circuit breaker is bad or (as you mentioned the motor gets hot) the motor is bad and drawing too much current and tripping the circuit breaker.
I have replaced the switch with an aftermarket heavy duty toggle. I know insert booo here but had to get car ready for big trip to Pleasanton California last August. Switch does not get hot. Must be the pump itself. Sorry for long delay on reply but got busy and weather turned bad. Top stayed up for awhile. Appreciate all the help.
It very well could be the motor. But you will be some kind of pissed off if 25 cents of lubricant fixes the issue after you spend $300 only to find your motor was fine.