I was getting the $400 black plastic dash bezel ready to install yesterday when I made an unpleasant discovery- the top two studs for the instrument cluster are not drilled out and one of them has so little meat on it I doubt that I can drill it for the required #8 screw without busting through on one side. I checked with a couple of suppliers and apparently only one company makes this part. My supplier was kind enough to check their stock and confirmed all of the units they have in stock have this problem. So I'm stuck drilling two holes with no margin for error. I plan to start with a smaller #6 screw that requires a smaller hole. If this works i'll be OK. But before I reinvent the wheel, has anyone else encountered this problem with a repro part? If so, how did you solve it? Thanks, Doug
I am not sure what part you are talking about. What year 'bird?. Do you mean the guage housing?
Can you include a picture?
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
Thanks for responding. The Firebird is a 1969. The dash bezel is the large black plastic housing for the H/light switch, Wiper switch, Gauges and speedometer, heater controls, radio, etc. The bezel covers up all the space in front and to the right of the driver. Ames Performance Engineering refers to it as the "dash carrier". Doug
Ah, no wonder I didn't know what you were referring to. I just handle '68's, so I'm not going to be of much help. Sorry.
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
I will have to look at my dash bezel that I have had sitting in a box for several years to see if mine is the same way. I think I understand what your talking about, but can you post a pic of what you need to drill out so I can see? Thanks
Interesting comments and helpful. I had all #8 screws with the possible exception of the heater control which I did not put on yet. To drill out the top holes for the gages I found the projections were guides for the gage pack albeit too large. Sanded them down and was able to guide the gage pack in place. Ran the bottom screws in and then used a 7/64"bit to drill the hole for smaller #6 screws. This worked out well except I think I'm stuck removing the steering wheel now to have enough space to guide the bezel in place with the gages attached. I doubt that I can get them off the bezel and reinstall from under the dash now. Also had to file down the opening for the wiper switch for it to slip into position. I feel like a pioneer doing this and hope someone's replacement will go smoother with this string of postings as a guide. Doug
Thanks to all who responded. The new dash bezel is in place on my 69 and looks spectacular. I thought I would document here what I did in case someone else tries to install the repro bezel and would benefit from my experience. I would recommend removing both seats and the steering wheel to start. This will give you access and more room to work. I would plan on installing almost everything to the bezel ahead of time- so install the wiper switch, gauge cluster, heater cables attached to control mechanism, cigarette lighter and anything else you may have that attaches to the dash bezel except the radio which should go in once the bezel is installed. Hook up the heater/defroster cables before tightening the bezel to the dash.Be sure to attach ground wires to all electrical components that attach to the bezel.The ground can go anywhere appropriate. I chose the heater box and used the holes for the temperature cable bracket. The best I can tell all repro bezels have the top holes for the gauge cluster un-drilled. Fortunately the guide pins provided make lining things up easy. I installed the gauges and then drilled the top gauge cluster mounting bosses for #6 screws since the bosses are not well enough formed to take a hole for a #8 screw like the rest of those on my original bezel. Once the dash bezel is ready to install just hook up the heater control cables and then the gauge cluster plug and speedometer cable. Then being careful not to pinch any wires between the bezel and the steel part of the dash, go ahead and bolt it in place. Inspect the completed installation for any pinched wires and correct if needed. I taped up every wire I didn't use so there was no chance that a live wire could come in contact with a ground.Patience gets rewarded here. Allow plenty of time for this project. Hope this will help someone. Best Regards to all, Doug
I know this will sound really stupid but I have no idea how to post a picture here. I have an iPhone. If you can tell me how to post the photo I will be glad to give it a shot.