I figure that while the motor is out and the gap of time before getting it back from the builder I might change the body bushing. Car should be much lighter then. I was told by someone that I should be able to do them one side at a time without completely removing the front subframe.
Does that sound correct to you guys???
I've seen nos bushing on ebay but don't think I need those. Where should I get them? do new bolts and washers come with them when you buy a set?
bill v
69 Firebird Convertible (wifes car since 1979) Goldenrod Yellow, 350, plain Jane Car was stored in garage since 1990
I need help, if anyone see's I'm going down the wrong road--Straighten me out!
I get almost everything form Ames Performance in NH. They're the safest bet for getting the correct firebird parts since they only sell Pontiac parts and know their stuff.
Doing the body bushings is a good idea. Not only is the rubber probably decomposing, but the bolts corrode too.
I did mine a long time ago and though it's theoretically simple, it can be a PIA. you need to be able to support the body shell and do some jacking. So you need multiple jack stands and floor jacks. You will prob need to disconnect the steering rag joint. Also, be prepared to deal with stuck bolts. The nuts are in cages under the front seats and in the cowl mounts. Plan to remove the front seats so you can apply liquid wrench and might need to hold the nuts if they tear up the cages.
"Disconnect the rag joint" crap, something else I need to figure out lol. ok, well it will be easier with the engine out
I did look at the Ames catolog, there are a few different bushing in there. is there a preference?
There is also something called "a core support bushing" is that for the radiator core?
also, the body bushing, is that just one big heavy bushing or is there 2 bushings there? I would guess that the body bushing goes in from the top, is that correct??
does anyone have a mechanical drawing they can post?
thanks bill v
69 Firebird Convertible (wifes car since 1979) Goldenrod Yellow, 350, plain Jane Car was stored in garage since 1990
I need help, if anyone see's I'm going down the wrong road--Straighten me out!
The kit I used had a diagram of where and how each bushing installed, including the radiator support bushings. Lots of places sell them and the metal sleeves are included.
I used the polyurethane, with the motor in, front clip was off.
Used a prybar, and an impact gun will suffice to remove the old ones. No spray lubricant was required.
Do one at a time, final torque is around 90 ft. lbs.
I did mine just last year. After giving it a lot of thought and some trail and error I got it. I also learned alot about it. I did do one side at a time but loosened all 6 first. Getting penetrating oil etc. On them is good . And I did figure out a way not to have to remove the rag joint. it can be done that way though. However you'll have to watch that you get your steering lined up. The bolts did not come with mine. Do all 6 bushings if you're going to do it. Hint the smaller 2 are the core support ones. There is a factory build diagram that shows how they did it. The one thing that I fought with was the headlight section of the car and bumper mounts as they bolt to parts of the frame and body. The frame and body do have to move about an inch and a half or so apart to get the mounts in. Ideally I wish my front clip had been off. Any questions just post me back. Cme469.