Bird is in the garage for winter. Basically just parked. Not heated space. Not planning on driving it during New England winter. I disconnected the battery. There has been some water cooler debate about the value of starting the car up and running it during the winter storage. Some said good idea to keep things moving around. Others suggested that heating it up and cooling it down in cold weather might actually promote more condensation and potential problems than the gains of "moving things around".
My engine builder told me to just park it . Put you a fuel stabilizer in run it a little bit. Disconnect battery. I put mine on a trickle charger about every couple weeks for a day or two. Let it sit until time to run it again. If you don't drive it for a least 20min it is better to not start it.
I took mine out of daily driver action 35 years ago. Since then, I have tried both the "start it occasionally" and "let it hibernate" approaches. Since the edict here of only 10% corn squeezens gas, I have used Sta-Bil and just let it sit for 5-6 months. I keep a battery shutoff on year round and cut the power off any time I pull in the garage. I don't like the idea of 50 year-old wiring being left unattended plus my aftermarket radio draws 24/7 so the cutoff keeps it from draining the battery. I put a charger on it for a couple days periodically to top it off but it usually is fully charged anyway.
I put the top up and cover it with a soft cotton cover, and occasionally make sure no leaks have started. And finally, I will not take it out on the roads in spring until we have had a few rains to wash all the salt off them. The 14 years of daily driver Illinois winters was enough salt for me.
Now with about 183,000 miles, the engine has never been out or opened for major work since the obligatory timing chain and gear.
MIne went out of DD status back in 1997ish...since then I try to start her up at least once every couple of months...run the engine to full temp, and then another 15 minutes or so. Run the transmission through all the gears, pump the brakes a few times, lock to lock on the steering and toot the horn for good measure. The only thing I've had to do in 20 years is rebuild the Qjet, and put in 3 or 4 batteries (always on a trickle charger).
I took my coupe off "daily driver" ~1988. I drag it with me ever since. 5 different storage locations (all my residence).
Ran engine (min 45min) at least once in fall and once in spring for 30 years. Engine always started and ran. Sometime within 30 years the body slowly weathered away...damm! lol
Tore down engine 7 years ago. Looks good, just need timing chain and heads done. Left it a short block and will rebuild eventually.
WE only leave the battery in the car in the winter if we are intending to buy a new one in spring. The cold here kills everything that moves.
Engine Test Stand Playlist: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLwoxyUwptUcdqEb-o2ArqyiUaHW0G_C88 restoring my 1968 Firebird 400 HO convertible (Firedawg) 1965 Pontiac Catalina Safari Wagon 389 TriPower (Catwagon) 1999 JD AWS LX Lawn tractor 17hp (my daily driver) 2006 Sequoia 2017 Murano (wife's car) 202? Electric car 203? 68 Firebird /w electric engine 2007 Bayliner 175 runabout /w 3.0L Mercuiser__________________________________________________________
I took mine out of daily driver action 35 years ago.... Now with about 183,000 miles, the engine has never been out or opened for major work since the obligatory timing chain and gear.
That's outstanding Jim. I little risky leaving the engine as is with no rebuild don't you think? Your 50-80k overdue. Oil pumps fail, rods break etc...
I tore done my 400HO and found it only needed a couple of valve reseated and timing chain.
I do most of the work but leave it to the engine builder to assemble the engine to a short block. He leaves me enough work to make me feel like I rebuilt it with no worries.
Gus, With 2,500-3,000 mile oil and filter changes on all my vehicles, I get a lot of miles out of them with no rebuilds. My GMC van with a 350 has 353,000. I've had a lot of repairs in my 1.3 million miles of vehicles but none deeper into any engine than water pumps and timing chains.
Sure wish I could find a way to seal the aluminum alloy wheels on my Grand Prix GXP. They leak after a few months no matter how many times I get the tires reseated.
Gus, With 2,500-3,000 mile oil and filter changes on all my vehicles, I get a lot of miles out of them with no rebuilds. My GMC van with a 350 has 353,000. I've had a lot of repairs in my 1.3 million miles of vehicles but none deeper into any engine than water pumps and timing chains.
Sure wish I could find a way to seal the aluminum alloy wheels on my Grand Prix GXP. They leak after a few months no matter how many times I get the tires reseated.
WOW, I never heard of anyone getting that kind of mileage on a domestic engine. But then, the trucks here are drivin hard and put away wet! I have never lost an engine either. It's people that just don't do the min maintenance on there vehicles that end up with blown engines.
You might want to do a leak down test to verify the health of the engine. If the pistons rings do not leak you don't have to do the bottom end. I figure your heads might be weaker.
My tire guy had a rubber compound he would wipe on the rim to seal my aluminum rims. Bloody corrosion!.
Engine Test Stand Playlist: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLwoxyUwptUcdqEb-o2ArqyiUaHW0G_C88 restoring my 1968 Firebird 400 HO convertible (Firedawg) 1965 Pontiac Catalina Safari Wagon 389 TriPower (Catwagon) 1999 JD AWS LX Lawn tractor 17hp (my daily driver) 2006 Sequoia 2017 Murano (wife's car) 202? Electric car 203? 68 Firebird /w electric engine 2007 Bayliner 175 runabout /w 3.0L Mercuiser__________________________________________________________
That GMC 350 has a lot of long trips on it; I think over 40 states and 4 Canada provinces/territories. Still starts fast and runs well.
As for the 400HO, it burns no oil (leaks a few drops with the factory seals still in) and since it is a 400HO cannot get a good compression test. Can't imagine the fun trying to do the right side with the AC anyway. I have had a lot of fun with the power but never really beat the engine hard. I believe the 2.56 rear adds to the longevity because of the lower RPMs at speed. A 2.56 has a heck of a lot less lifetime revolutions than any other 1st Gen differential.
I'll ask my current tire shop if they use that compound. I know that I have to inflate tires every week or two on the GP. My son's 2000 Camaro needs air every few days and has tires remounted multiple times between new ones.
Just had to take advantage of one of the many reasons I retired here.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI