Q: Should I attempt body mount replacement
My 1968 f-bird convertible has deteriorated rubber body mounts. How hard of a job will it be to replace these? Are the bolts usually rusted to a point where they break off when you try to unscrew them? If any one has experience doing this please offer some advice if I am getting into a MAJOR headache.
A: I would definitely take a look to see if the perches that the mounts sit on are ruted away, or have sustained any cracks away from the frame itself. I did a frame off restoration on my 1968 bird and found every perch both rusted to the thickness of paper, and also multiple cracks rendering it unsafe unless rewelded and reinforced.
A: I did this on a 65 GTO convertible and had no problems, but this was on a rust free California car. If your car has extensive rust it may be harder. If you can get to it, soak the threads with WD-40 for a couple of days. When trying to break the bolts loose try rocking the wrench back and forth instead of applying brute force only to the “off” direction. Also try wacking the head of the bolt a few times with a hammer — this sometimes helps loosen things up. Just do it. You sure as hell won’t get it done if you don’t try. Good Luck!
A: mentioned by others, be sure to check the frame to look for rust problems before you stick in a bunch of new bushings. The jagged edges of a rusty mount will eat up a new bushing. If you want to repair the area instead of replacing the sub-frame, look for some large washers to “sandwich” the frame and tack weld them into place. To keep the body alignment close do only one side at a time. as far a rusty body bolts, I’ve seen them come out with only half the bolt remaining. Instead of WD-40 (which is a lubricating/penetrant) I would use something like “Liquid Wrench” (a penetrent) because its designed to cut through rust. Another trick if you have access to a torch is to remove the front seats and carpet and heat the captured nuts (located in the seat pedestal area) before you try to remove the bolt. Good luck.
A: I just wanted to thank any & all that posted tips on body bushing replacement. I just finished doing mine in polyurethane. It was the best small dollar investment I’ve put into the car so far. No more steel against steel squeaks when ya touch a fender. The doors appeared to have bad hinges on it before the job. Now they line up and close like new. My front clip even looks more in line. I even got the bumper aligned better. Anyway…………THANKS again!!!
P.S. On the frame connectors….. (1) the bolt on ones can be welded in (but you’ll never be able to change 4 of the 6 cage nuts that retain the leaf springs) (2) Manufacturer recommends that you crossdrill where the subframe meets the connector and bolt each with 4 1/2″ bolts (3) they won’t fit a convertible without a notch in either the connectors or in the offending brace under the car. I choose to notch the connectors and weld plate back in the hole.
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Content last modified: January 5, 2014 at 5:10 pm