Convertible Trim Removal for a 1969

Q: Convertible Trim Removal for a 1969

How do I remove the following trim items for a 1969 convertible:

1. Front Fender “Louvres” Do they just use a stud with a nut on the back? Will there be any trouble accessing the back side?

2. Convertible Well Molding – Does this just “Pop” off, and if so, is there a special tool or trick that should be used so it doesn’t get damaged?

3. Front Windshield Lower and Side Moldings

4. Any tips on removing the nose from the rubber headlight bezel cushions forward would be great.

A: 1. Front Fender “Louvres” – Do they just use a stud with a nut on the back? Will there be any trouble accessing the back side?

* These will be the hardest to take off. They were bolted on from behind with those speed nuts like the ones that hold you hood emblems on but larger.

* Accessing the back side will be impossible unless you loosen or take off the fender.

2. Convertible Well Molding – Does this just “Pop” off, and if so, is there a special tool or trick that should be used so it doesn’t get damaged?

* The important step to take here is to first remove the screws holding this molding on. There should be one on each side toward the front of the molding were the molding is vertical and inside the well facing the conv. top. There might be a screw in the middle as well. I don’t remember. I think you can just gently pull the molding off from the well towards the back of the car. You have to twist and push at the same time so the inner lip will clear the clip.

3. Front Windshield Lower and Side Moldings

* The lower molding is screwed down and is the easiest one to remove. You have to remove the windshield valence and the screws are just underneath. The top and side windshield moldings require a special tool. This tool looks like a Y with to hooks hanging off it on the outside. These hooks go under the molding and catch the clips. Once you have located a clip you just pull toward the middle of the windshield and the clip will release the molding. The side molding that covers the pillar post is screwed on and strip caulked on. You have to take off the windshield molding, weather stripping, and the weather stripping bracket or Track (also polished stainless). Once the windshield molding is off you can see the two small screws holding the outside of this molding. They will be down by were the windshield meets the car. Next you will have to pull the weather stripping out and take out the screws that are holding the weather stripping track on. Underneath this track are a few more screws holding the pillar post chrome on. After all the screws are removed there will still be a pretty good hold on this piece because they were strip caulked onto the body. Just be very careful and take your time. All these pieces are very hard to find and very expensive when you do find them.

4. Any tips on removing the nose from the rubber headlight bezel cushions forward would be great.

* The headlight bezels are held on by five carriage bolts each. These bolts are very hard to get because of their extra long carriage. You will have to drop the whole nose to access the two top corner bolts. I would recommend dousing these nuts and bolts with a lot of penetrating fluid a night or so before you plan on taking them off. They made the carriage longer because it has to go through the fiberglass bezel and then anchor on the metal of the nose. A normal carriage bolt won’t make it through the fiberglass and will crack it while tightening.

BTW…I have found a good, cheap way to remove the drip rail moldings on a hard top. I use one of those cheap bottle openers with the pointed side on one end and the bottle opener on the other. Tape the large rounded side of the opener (the side that would be on top of the bottle cap. Use masking or duct tape, something with a little cushion to it. Put the opener on the corner piece and it will pop right off. Then start at the beginning of the molding and move back. Using the opener like you would to open a bottle. Taped side pointed toward the sky. It works, give it a try.

A: Are you in for a big job. Here’s what I know:

1. Front Fender “Louvers”

* Next to impossible to remove without removing the fender. They are held on by stamped steel speed nuts. You may be able to squeeze you hand up behind the fender if you unbolt the fender from the chassis and the fender well then pry the fender out. I hope you have thin arms.

2. Convertible Well Molding

* This is the one piece that I haven’t removed, yet. I, too, would be interested in anyone’s advice. From what I hear, you have to unbolt it from the well side but I really don’t know.

3. Front Windshield Lower and Side Moldings

* The lower piece is bolted in place. Most of the bolts are under the cowl but there is a clip on each end that is behind the top of the fender. I found I had to unbolt the fender to work mine back into place. The side moldings are screwed in place but (if I remember correctly) the screws are behind the window weather strip that runs up the pillar.

4. Any tips on removing the nose from the rubber headlight bezel cushions forward would be great.

* Your not going to like this one but, to remove the rubber you have to totally dissemble the front bumper setup. I recommend that you remove the whole bumper setup first by unbolting it from the bumper brackets that extend up from the subframe. I think there are only six bolts/nuts total. three on each side. You can then lay the whole thing face down on a couple of saw horses to make it easier. If you have a die grinder, cut the locking nuts off, not the bolt, just the nut. Don’t even try to un-screw them because you’ll wind up breaking the plastic mounting tabs for the headlight surround. Pay special attention to all the little spring washers and plastic washers. The bolts are carriage type and have extra long shoulders. Save as many as you can. As in everything… be patient and make notes.

Funny thing is, after you remove the from bumper assembly and hood, the fenders come off rather easily. You may consider this when trying to remove the fender louvers and windshield chrome.

Well, I hope I didn’t scare you. It’s a lot of work but the details can really make or break a great paint job.

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