None of them are really more that plain silver paint. I actually got a roll of chrome tape and cut up sections to fit and installed them.
Voila - bright, SAFE, taillights without over powered bulbs (which get too hot) or having to go LED.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
The inside were actually clean except the out side edges. I sand blasted the outside and the inside (outside edge ) where there was little corrosion but no rust.
I hand sanded the inside where the reflective paint was, it came off real easy. I then Primed everything, taped off the outside and paint the chrome inside. It turned out better then I thought the chrome paint could look but maybe this was just what it was made for.
Looks good. Just remember that the tail light housings need to self ground for all of the lghts to work. The housings ground to the mounting studs, and the light bulb sockets ground to the housing. You may want to sand off any paint at those locations or you will be wondering why none of your lights work. Same thing with rear marker lights. They are mounted with a 'fork' shaped spring that grounds to the inside of the rear quarter steel. I can't count the number of threads that are started regarding rear lights not working due to painting all the parts and connections.
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
WOW! Looks awesome. I thought the housings were just plain metal and not painted from the factory?
Thanks, The inside had a very thin reflective silver coating. The out side may have been plain but I shoot it with aluma blast.
Thanks for the info Harold. I am going to have a look t mine nd possibly upgrade.
As for the plastic polish FLITZ is an excellent product. It is a plastic polish that is sold at tons of retail stores. I also use it to polish metal and glass.
The inside were actually clean except the out side edges. I sand blasted the outside and the inside (outside edge ) where there was little corrosion but no rust.
I hand sanded the inside where the reflective paint was, it came off real easy. I then Primed everything, taped off the outside and paint the chrome inside. It turned out better then I thought the chrome paint could look but maybe this was just what it was made for.
Harold which brand and type of primer did you use? Also, when you said "Aluma Blast" id you mean Eastwood or is there a Krylon paint?
I used the rust-oleum primer inside the tail light housing before spraying the chrome paint and Eastwoods self etching primer outside. I just had picked up the rust-oleum primer on sale 2 4 1 sale and wanted to try it. It worked fine.
I just purchased the Eastwoods aluma blast on sale for 8.99 so I picked up a few cans.
Seymour makes a great aluma blast paint. You can pick it up at different locations. Summit sales for 7.95
Here was what the inside looked like prior to painting the inside.