I am having problems with my temp gauge reading low. It reads at the 25% line which I think is around 140.It does go to zero when cool and comes up to temp as it warms up. I have a 185 t stat and the temp on the manifold by the sending unit is close to that. I had the original sender and I tried changing it to the one from Ames so that is not the problem. I have a new engine harness and I have not changed the dash harness. Every thing else seems to work fine although the gas gauge could be reading low although I only added about 5 gal's and it did register some. As this is a frame off restoration I am am just getting it going. Any ideas?
I think a lot of those old gauges themselves are in poor condition and do not work well. I had a ton of issues with the rally gauges in my coupe, and most issues were tracked back to the gauge itself. My fuel gauge reads full all the time. Have to drop the tank for the fourth time to see which end the problem is on. Probably the gauge.
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
Are these the same gauges that were in the car before the restoration? Did they work OK then?
I had the gauge cluster I bought from another FGF member refurbished at D&M before I installed it due to age issues like tpls400 suggested. Since they were new to me and I did not know if they worked properly to begin with - I figured "safe than sorry".
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
OK, after some serious surfing it may be that I am using Teflon tape for a sealant. This would increase resistance causing it to read low. I hope to test this weekend. What are others using for sealant? As always. Thank you for comments
On paper it sounds good but I am having problems seeing how you don't eventually get a metal to metal junction when the teflon tape tears away as it is threaded in. I suppose it is possible but seems like it would need to start out as a very loose connection and wrap many, many layers of tape.
On paper it sounds good but I am having problems seeing how you don't eventually get a metal to metal junction when the teflon tape tears away as it is threaded in. I suppose it is possible but seems like it would need to start out as a very loose connection and wrap many, many layers of tape.
X2.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
I was not able to find anything on temp gauge calibration other then a resistor across the gauge coil. I did find multiple references to the added resistance from tape. I will try it with out tape and update this thread. Gordy
We now offer a accurate temperature sending unit for many Pontiac Olds & Buick vehicles. Months of research were devoted to this project in order to provide our customers with sending units that have the original-type terminal connection, housing and resistance (thermistor); resulting in an accurate gauge reading. They screw right into the 1/2" pipe thread hole (as original). Although these do not have a exact appearance as the original (shown in pic), they are very good replacement. This is for models with Rally Gauges (not dummy lights).
Both auto part's stores and GM/Delco do sell replacement temperature sending unit, but they do not produce an accurate gauge reading in vintage cars. This is because sending units from an auto part's store and even GM, are only a generic replacement; often requiring a new, matching gauge or re-calibration of your original gauge.
This fits the following 66 67 68 69 Pontiac models with RAM AIR I II III or IV H.O. or standard 326 350 400 421 428 455 Bonneville GTO tempest Lemans Safari Catalina GP Grand Prix Trans AM Firebird Ventura Executive 1 2 3 4 1968 1967 1966 1969 1970 71 72 1971 1972 1973 70 Chevy Chevrolet
Also 70 71 72 Buick gs gran sport special & 73 AD-AH-AJ with gauges (2nd type)
Update: grounded sending unit to engine and body with no change in gauge reading. I am ruling out the teflon tape resistance issue as the problem. Looks like the cluster will be coming out.
What should the voltage be at the sending unit? Running and off. I believe it drops all the voltage across the sending unit so it should be the same open and connected?