Can anyone identify this transmission? I'd save it if it was the original 2 speed that came in my 1968 350 but it doesn't look to be the original. A TH350 will be going in so I have no reason to save this - just curious what the markings are.

http://photobucket.com/albums/c128/youngdw/?action=view&current=trans.jpg

Not visible in this photo are the numbers "64" and the letter "D" stamped on the tag.
There is remnants of blue paint on the case also.
Dave

It looks like a 2-speed, judging by an about 2-1 difference between the length of the case compared to the tailshaft. How many pan bolts? Powerglide/ST-300, 14.

I bet it's a newer metric trans because all the older ones have a letter code not numbers.
Jim

The pan 'should' read so in that case. Maybe it is a dreaded 125 or 200, but it looks too short to have more than 2 speeds.

35 is the code for a 1964 Buick Super Turbine 300 or 1964 Olds F85 Jetaway, both two speeds. Some older transmissions used numbers, too.

Ahhh. The identification page I used only goes back to 65. If you go back any further they don't fit the end of the newer cranks.


Jim

Dunno if that's what it is, just a possibility. I'm sure numbers were reused over the years, and I've seen plenty of mutt transmissions, too.

You Dunno?

Sometimes.

I just got back from the shop that was supposed to do my control arm bushings. We had a disagreement on a fair price for the job, so I'll have to add that to my to-do list. What would you consider reasonable for replacement of upper and lower bushings on the car?

Now I have to go and wash the car.

It's a ugly job. They probably just don't want to do it. It can take some time. By the time I finish a set I'm dirty, tired and pissed. As a side job I would want $200. That way if it took me all day I wouldn't be too bad off. Most of the shop mechanics would try to avoid it and get some cleaner easier work that pays better.
Jim

Time I have. Money I don't, though I'd have gladly paid the $225 they quoted originally. When the price changed to $750, so did my attitude. Hmmm, I wonder if a 20 ton log splitter can be modified to press bushings?

Yep, and it would crush the control arms too. I cut them first and they fall out. The price went from fair to, "I don't want to do it".
Jim

Thanks for the info.
I've pretty much confirmed that it's an st300 from a 1964 vehicle. Since it's not original to my car, I'll be tossing it out very soon. If anyone wants it (Massachusetts) you can take it. I couldn't tell you what condition it is inside.
Dave

My brother and I did mine in a fairly short amount of time. If you get the right tool on loan for free from Autozone, et al, it's pretty easy. For $750 you could just about get NEW control arms, ball joints and bushings. Or did I misunderstand?

The Harbor Freight ball joint service tool will press the new bushings into place, at least for the Global West Del-a-lum type. The gap between the two holes needs to be supported with a 1-1/2" long piece of steel angle. Or borrow the autozone tool.

A combination of drilling the rubber portion and cutting the old bushing with a saw will get them out without a press. Someone here talked about that last month and it worked like a charm. Cut the metal sleeve right next to where it passes through the arm both places. Then it crushes easily and falls out.

Like Fbody is hinting, you will earn every cent you saved diy on this job. But the satisfaction is priceless.

Just be careful of the "might as wells". The control arm is connected to the subframe. Pretty soon you're into a full frame off restoration.