Been working on window alignment on my 68 convertible. Having trouble getting my passenger side window alignment dialed in. The driver's side was fairly straightforward, other than a linkage from the exterior key lock that interfered with the glass (it's a restomod with late model recessed door handles). The passenger's side is giving me a fight. Again , there was a linkage interference issue (I know now why the builder gave up on aligning the windows), which I was able to remedy, but I can't adjust the window far enough up. The rubber stop on the front of the glass is hitting the door panel before the top of the glass touches the top weather stripping. There is a felt covered window guide where the rear rubber stop comes up. Is there supposed to be one where the front stop comes up too? Also, when the rear stop contacts the rear guide, it pushes the back of the window away from the outside felt. Is there a way to adjust for this?

There I are two rubbing blocks that mount just below the window fuzzy. These are not the stops. They tip the top of the glass in slightly for it to align in the weather strip u channel. I don’t recall any adjustment on these rubbing blocks. If these parts are worn window position in/out when rolled up won’t be right. If vertical tracks are adjusted too far towards the door skin they might act like stops.
Front travel stop is at the bottom of the front track. Seems to me the rear is on the window bracket.

More Body by Fisher info

More… sorry, front stop is installed with the window down, adjusted when the window is almost up.

It's hard for me to visualize the problem you're having, and I have always just made the adjustments till I get it right. Some are easy and some can be a bear, I find aftermarket weather stripping can sometimes make it more difficult. I have heard people praise videos by this guy and he has a tutorial series on first gen glass install. Here you go and good luck. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_crBKY6Xl-0 I also noticed the first comment under the video gives the steps in order.

I think the issue is the front rub block (on the door skin side of the glass) is missing. I was unsure if there were supposed to be two on each door (one front, one back), but it appears that's the case.

The Speedway listing for the parts says "2 per car", which was confusing.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/OER-K687-Window-Guides-1968-69-Camaro-1968-Firebird,275326.html?sku=92632963&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIztDAocrG9QIVGx6tBh0DsQHvEAYYASABEgJg7fD_BwE

Yes, there are two rub blocks. One at the front of the door, one at the rear. Two per door.

Front and rear rub blocks on the door and front and rear rub buttons on the glass shown.

When I rebuilt my doors, I used Classic Headquarters W-055 rear and W-056 front class stops. I used Ames FF-464 for the door rub plates.

Thanks. Just wondering, are the front and rear rub buttons on the glass supposed to be the same size?

No. The front is not as tall as the rear.

I finally got it all torn apart, and found a couple issues. The front rub block on the door side was not there at all, and the front plastic button on the glass was actually the one intended for the rear. I think the absence of the rub block combined with the extra thickness of the wrong plastic button was causing it to catch on the lip of the door skin before it was all the way up. I got all the correct parts rounded up, hopefully, it will solve the problem.

So I got the glass adjusted pretty close last night. The front of the glass fits and aligns nicely. I'd like to see the top of the glass a little higher. It is in contact with the weather strip and is sealed, but I'd like to see it 1/8" higher. Unfortunately, it's as high as it can go. I even had to pull out the front and rear stops to get it to go that high. The cross bar that bolts to the glass is actually working as a stop when it hits the bottom of the bracket on the "fuzzies".

It seems like it will work this way, but something is obviously not right. It almost seems like the glass is too short, the door is to low, or the convertible top is too high. The top of the door is aligned well with the body, and the glass on the other side fits fine, so I feel like the top is not the cause. Leads me to believe it might be an issue with the glass, or may the top/body are tweaked.

Any other ideas?

Probably a longshot but you can steal a little up and down adjustment on the top frame by adjusting the Allen set screw stop at the first joint back from the front, just a little. The way we checked door and trunk seals on new cars at the dealer that needed adjustments was to use a crisp dollar bill and it should be able to be pulled out with the door closed but be a firm pull. You also check it in all different spots. One other idea is that door glass factory or aftermarket?.

Not sure on the door glass. It definitely wasn't replaced when the car was rebuilt (by the previous owner), but I can't say for sure that it's factory.

Anybody have a picture of how the outer window felt for the quarter glass interfaces with the trim piece that goes around the back of the convertible top? I can’t seem to get them to fit.

This picture shows where they come together. I thought the round bead would slide into the channel , but it’s too big. I must be missing some thing.

Here is that area on my '68:
Not that it could cause your problem, is that a raised area on the inside edge of that trim?

It's kind of hard to tell from the picture, but at the front edge of the molding it's recessed down a bit and behind that it is a raised up channel. It looks like the round chrome bead part of the window felt should sit on top of the recessed part and slide into the channel, but the diameter of the bead is larger than the opening on the channel.

Does it look like the bead on your felt goes inside the raised part on your molding?

I'm thinking I may have to spread the channel open a little or may try to flatten the bead on the part that engages with the channel. I don't really like either option, but if that's how it goes together, I don't see another option.

I ended up cutting a little off the end and pinching the part that slides into the channel section down a little bit. After that it slid in and snapped into the quarter panel with just a little bit of persuasion.