Hey guys, looking for some advice on a motor swap in my 68. I have a numbers matching WQ HO Engine I’ve been thinking about yanking and just setting aside in a safe place and installing something to have “fun†with and not worrying about wrecking. I came across a 400 recently rebuilt by Gary Hedden in MN and looks like I can get a fair price on it. Just want to make absolute certain it will bolt in/work in my 68 4 Spd Car?
It is a 9799914 Block with 16 heads. Bored .30 over with Performer Intake, etc. Was dyno’d at R&R Performance and did 404 HP and like 450-460 lbs-ft. What do I need to look for/at to be certain it will work in my car?
The only thing that might make a difference is the year of the new motor. They changed the motor mounts sometime in the mid 70s. One other thing also related to the YOM is the register size of the crank. This would only be a concern if you were going to have to bolt a different flywheel on. Other than that you should be good to go.
Any idea what the crank size would be on my original, to compare and make sure the one I would like to buy will fit everything I have? Did Auto blocks vary from 4 spd blocks?
The seller said it is a 2.5†register? The block casting says it’s a 70-71’ Block, everything I see online says they didn’t switch to the 2.5†until 76? Must be a different crank or was there some with a 2.5†prior to 76?
I think auto and manual blocks are the same. You might just look to make sure the hole for the clutch pivot ball is drilled and tapped though. I'd have to go out and measure the extra cranks I have. I don't remember the size off hand.
The Engine I purchased has the newer 11 bolt 4 1/2†Waterpump on it, what am I going to all need as far as pulleys/brackets to make everything work off of my original 68 8 bolt waterpump with power steering, no ac? For sure I’ll need a late 69 or 70 water pump pulley? Will that line everything else back up or will I need different brackets for everything? Looks like the top front alternator bracket from the 68 won’t work on the new 11 bolt water pump?
Shoot for a 69 Firebird or GTO pulley and bracket setup. The brackets were the same 67-69. You will just need to source 69 pulleys. And the pulleys are AC or no AC sets. If you can figure out the pulley part numbers you can get them from Franks Pontiac Parts. He can prob set you up without the part numbers.
Do you guys run a PCV on your cars? The Engine currently in my car is just blocked off, but always has a bit of steam/smoke coming outa breathers and always thought about hooking it up, but now seeing I putlrchased a different engine, I see it has the PCV sitting down in Valley, but isn’t hooked up, where would you run it to and would I have to adjust carb etc if I do hook it up, apparently they dyno’d it and adjusted carb without it hooked up. Has breathers on both valve covers.
Don't think it will affect carb tune enuff to make a difference. You can hook it up where one of those small square head plugs are. Many of the factory set-ups used the hole closest to the carb.
The previous owner also did not use the temp gauge location (next to the rad hose neck)
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
Anyone have a basic quick list of steps for removing this engine from my car? Will be my first.
It’s a 4 spd car, does tranny have to come out/drop? Assuming Radiator has to be pulled, does the support also? Unbolt headers from engine right away or will they snake up outa there? Any pointers are very much appreciated!! Picked up a 2 Ton Hoist and Load Leveler from Harbor Freight, now I just need to find some time.
Don't forget to remove the ground wire from the back of the head to the firewall. It's easy to forget. Radiator out, yes. Rad support, no. Hood remove, yes. Trans, yes or no, personal preference. One of those lift lates that bolt to the intake works pretty well too. Take your time and put EVERYTHING you take off in a box or bucket. It sucks looking for [censored] when you're trying to put it back together. Take lots of pictures too if your not sure you'll remember how something goes back together.
Also recommend pulling all the accessories off the front of the motor. Alternator, PS and all the pulleys. Makes clearing the radiator support a bit easier.
If you remove the motor and tranny together, an engine leveler bolted to the block is a wise choice. Otherwise, remove the carb and bolt on a carb mount lifting plate.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
Thanks guys, sure appreciate it!! Tentatively planning on tackling next Saturday.
Is it possible for tranny to stay put right where it is and slide engine out and back in or will it have to be moved in some way to slide back in to clutch?
Any good suggestions on pulling distributor and making absolute certain you get it back in the exact spot? Looking at the dyno charts, this thing actually gained 5hp going from 33 degrees to 33 1/2 degrees, and then antually dropped a few horse going to 34, crazy how that tiny bit can effect it!
With a 4 speed, I would pull it with the trans or else remove the trans from the car first. I’m not sure how you could get the trans to mate up if it’s still in place when the motor goes back in. You can do that with an auto.
You can leave the distributor in if you’re careful. If you remove it you can mark things but replacing it and having it exact is unlikely. If you determine the total timing now you should be able to reset it exactly to that number after reinstall.
Could be the choice is dictated by the length of the wire loom that plugs into the temp sensor.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI