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Those are 6 cyl. support brackets. That is why they don't fit or reach. It is hard to tell but I'm pretty sure from your second picture you have the right plates that mount from the frame to the rubber mount. You Just need to get the v-8 support brackets jack the motor and install.

Thanks Barnbird.
I believe the the top plates that sit on the engine cradle look correct .
Doesn't look like i can purchase those missing support brackets separately? I have to buy the whole 4 piece set.
Also question on my pinion seal. Advance auto shows one type without the flange and Ames shows another like this with the flange.
Which one do i need?

Post and get some used ones, not a high dollar rare item. Yes the seal has a flange.

Diaphragm going bad in pump. This is another reason to check your oil often, you don't have to taste it but you should be sniffing it to catch before it ruins seals and or motor.

thanks Barnbird,
I just can't wrap my head around how a pump that is external and pumps gas externally up to the carb could get into the oil pan. I do understand fuel pumps go bad

Should I assume mine is bad and buy a replacement or is there a way to test mine out? I Can't run the motor yet

One side of the diaphragm sits on the oil side where a fulcrum ( powered by the cam) pushes the diaphragm up and down. It the diaphragm leaks, gas flows from the gas side to the oil side. Happens more often than you want to know.

Thanks hokie for the clear explanation. That is very disturbing to find out.

Am i better off converting to an electric fuel pump?

Does it matter what kind of replacement mechanical pump i might buy?

If I pull the fuel pump off the block will I be able to tell if gas is getting up in there?

Didn’t mean to scare you because it doesn’t happen that often, but you should be aware of the symptoms. If it was me I would put in a newer mechanical pump designed to work on today’s fuels. No real need to go electric.

Any recommendations on a mechanical pump?

I saw so many options and prices out there.

What are the symptoms besides gas in the oil?

Hey Barbird,
Every time I try to order a pinion seal the one with the flange always says for 12 bolt and the one without a flange is for the ten bolt.

I know you said I need the one with the flange but they are clearly different sizes and I need to get the right one.
thanks

Well the drivers side rotted header came off without a fight. (not counting the impossible to get at bolts) To get the replacement in will be a different story

Hi all,
Are most of you here running log exhaust manifolds or long branch or headers for street rides? Are the cast log manifolds that restrictive for a stock build?

I'd clean up a pair of stock logs just to get the car running and driving, after that if I needed more power I'd buy a set of long branch from Ames or RARE. I've run logs on several stock GTO cars and still had good power for when I needed it. If you ever have to change a stock starter on a header car, you'll miss the stock logs.

Thanks Duff that is basically what I was thinking. And yes I had to change the starter with headers on a dirt surface. not fun.
I think I am done trying to make these headers fit. I don't think they were meant for a first gen F body anyways. I bought them knowing they might not fit. the seller guessed they were second gen

But today I think I made a good score. Comparing to Franks Pontiac parts and ebay prices I think I did well.

I got a set of stock 70 400 rod and pistons.( my 400 has a crank but did not come with rods and pistons) Hope to do a stock rebuild.

Set of log manifolds with an extra

Set of valve covers with drippers ( my 400 did not come with valve covers)

And a good oil pan ( my 400 came with a trashed and patched pan)
All for $100

The guy I just bought these parts from also has a

557 stock bore 400 he is asking $350
and a short shart BOP turbo 350 don't know how much
a stock cast 4 barrel intake I might go back for he wants $40
He had like two more sets of rods and pistons ( i am sure i am the only dumb person who would want these)
some kind of special race flex plate brand new
and more

I picked up a 1979 ram air III 400 for 200 bucks last summer front right two cylinders are rusted and it's stuck, but the block is good and the heads are good, I'm had the cylinders soaking with marvel mystery oil and can o croil for a few months now, I bought my 68 350 for 275 bucks, was a 265 hp motor out of a 68 bird, it was rebuilt by the original owner, 068 cam now and a 4 brl intake, I did all new gaskets oil pump fuel pump water pump edelbrock intake and demon 650 carb with hei ignition she fired right up third crank on the stand!!! If you take your time look around and make some good contacts you can find parts pretty reasonable. I buying two more 400's off the same guy I got my ram air III from for the same price I got it for figure it would be a good investment for myself and possibly to make a lil cash back

wow i thought they stopped making the Ram air in 1970. but i am new to pontiacs

Yes I believe they did due to a contractor problem do to special rods.

Is it a RA3 form another year that was put in it? I assume you verified the block code and such. If its a true RA3 then nice score!

I think it was just a typo and he hit 7 instead of 6. Are you talking about ram air v rods? Ram air 3 rods were pretty basic.