67-68 OEM shroud very small chip on bottom. - 150.00 67-69 used nos replacement shroud - 150.00 SOLD 67-69 new oil filter adapter (from ram air restoration) for ram air exhaust manifolds 60.00 New NOR high idle solenoid - 150.00
I am running 14" JC Rally wheels. They are tight, but there are no rubs. I ordered kit DBK6927 but then added a new set of brake lines and the electrical connector for the brake failure indicator. I ordered standard steel lines for the very reason you cited with respect to straightening the shipping bends. I figured the original set lasted 50 years, the replacement ones will get me to 100 years or my death, whatever comes first.
I was thinking about their polisher, seems to have a lot of good reviews for an entry level polisher, some even better than a few more expensive machines.. I've been hesitant as I see a lot of cars that have been machine polished that have the pattern of the polishing pad's path visible at certain light angles. Does yours come out like a hand waxed car with no polisher tracks? Do you use it for polish and wax?
This stuff works great on swirl marks, and like I said their stuff goes on and wipes off really easy, no real need for a buffer. I do my car, and I have had rotator cuff surgery a few months ago.
It definitely wasn't showing OP on the gauge at the time, maybe the oil pump bypass valve stuck open but it seems fine now. I think I have worked out my pressure problem, I didn't have a valve cover breather that fitted so I stuck in a spare PCV valve but didnt have it connected to anything so am hoping that maybe that was stopping the engine breathing properly. I will run it with nothing in the hole and see if that stops the pressure build up. Thanks
Ok I just have to say I love summer. Had a great time at the local car show today. It was fun because I didn't enter my car. I could come and go as I please. Had a great time. Parked the car on the street outside. Easy Peasy. Hot dogs, beers, lots of people. I got to drive my bird ( something I haven't got to do for awhile) and it ran friggin awesome. I have to say I'm warming up to that FI in a big way. Not one issue with it starting( or not), stalling, or just generally running crappy. Got back home and garaged the bird but then had to go get a propane bottle for the bbq. Took my DD Subaru. You know what, when I hit the gas on it its just not the same. It was a good day all in all.
Absolutely. The only time I would advise people to coat only the outside is if they are a GOOD set of proper stainless steel headers. Mild steel headers should always be coated inside and out. I'm hoping when I go to E-heads I can find a good set of SS headers.
Well chances are any radial tire you use is bound to drop ride height from stock anyway and worn springs are going to add some to the drop from factory as well. In the end I would just be more concerned with what I think looks good and doesn't rub anywhere. Hey but that's just me.
Here are two pictures of the holes with the missing/broken bolts. Still nothing removed just used a tiny USB camera for a smartphone. More bolts will most probably break. These broken bolts have been my biggest concern so far because experience is the key factor. Regarding the rear main seal I would use the divided 3” Bop Viton seal so that the crank case can be left in place and only the main cap anti rotation holes require high temp silicon. For removing the old rope seal there is this sneaky pete tool. I think i need an exit strategy, i.e. when to hand over to a pro. This can be when the holes need to be retapped and/or the crank case needs to be loosened or removed in case the Viton seal doesn’t work.
If you get a chance, I'd love to hear how what kind of clearance to the fender (top and rear) with the wheel turned if you were to test fit the 9" with 255s on the front with the deeper backspace (different offset).
Hmm, I hadn't thought to do that, but I will and I'll post back!
I haven't done anything yet.....I was looking for input from someone who HAS replaced quarters. I do however have a another car that the quarter were removed.
Nice paint! Sorry, I forgot to get back to you about those panels. I would be interested in the very top piece of both qtr's (the full width is about 6", then another 2-6 inches of the side from door edge to the end of the quarter at the back. I need to mold the top of my quarter better. Last guy did not do full qtr and job not perfect like I want it.