Anything is worth a shot before tearing into the dash and gauge cluster but i'm not optimistic. I have some extra bulbs too. Of course the light will never be on when its sitting in the driveway where I can mess with things and see if something makes a difference. So you do something then wait and see. The tail lights seem to be bright and working fine.
Info on exhaust system enclosed. I'm running a 461 BBC; 10:1, Comp 292 cam, headers. Pypes system was a real bearcat to install. Neither of the up & overs were bent right. Ended up pie cutting and welding both of them. Drivers side was close, passenger side was not. I should have questioned the manufacturer as I noticed both were not bent the same but figured I'd get the run around. I wanted something quieter than the typical Flowmaster 40's sound. Originally I installed Pypes Street Pro mufflers. Sounded nice outside of the car but the interior drone at 40-45 mph with my combination was brutal. Like rattle the interior apart brutal. They lasted 2 months before I couldn't take it anymore. Ripped them off and installed Flowmaster 50's. These are longer than the Pypes mufflers making installation difficult but not impossible.
Smoking the tires is generally for people with something to prove or small penises.
it does nothing for performance, old drag racers did it as their power increased until one smart guy got better traction and blew them away then they all switched to doing a burn out to heat the tires first and traction and moving became more important
you don't have a performance firebird, you have a mid grade model that was designed to capture the family guy who wanted a car that his wife could drive but he could still could pretend he was cool, the 400's move but the ramair versions become funky depending on how built they are, a RAIV with 4.11 rear is really only for an experienced driver as many got wrapped around poles and trees, these cars are not full frame like GTO"s and when launched, banging a gear, or getting sudden severe traction coming out of burning rubber they can and will do unpredictable things, they bend, the front end twists, then you'll want frame connectors, still they twist
I have a 67 conv 400 built to RAI spec's with 3.42 gears, 4sp, she likes to lift the front end and not go straight, for whatever reason the comb of the HD conv springs and a 70 10 bolt rear give the car ungodly traction and I have to go full bore nutso to smoke the tires, she generally wants to grab and launch, one freaking screw up like when I was 17 and I will lose @ 50k
enjoy your cruiser, it's a nice car with good mpg and stuff won't break
seen on western mass craigslist. complete 1969 400 4bbl w #62 heads and th400 tranny. Guys says it runs fine. Its not in a car. He didn't have any idea what he had when i talked to him. Asking $2200 for both but i'll bet you could do . I don't much better.. I don't know this guy just spreading the word in case somebody's looking for a solid looking 400 or tranny. Those are good heads too!
I should be buying this and swapping for my numbers matching 350 while I rebuild. But... why make sense.
Hi bill, your not gonna believe it, but since I made that that post I was changing my Culligan soft water filter and found the rubber gasket on the filter element was the perfect thickness and OD for the gas cap. The ID may need trimmed a bit. I now have extras if you’d like one.
There are all kinds of amazing aftermarket upgrades readily available. The big question is realistically how hard do you intend to drive the car? Track car, auto cross or just spirited street driving? I have a '68 with Hotchkis rear lowering leaf springs, KYB gas shocks all around, rebuilt stock front suspension, a fat aftermarket front sway bar. Front coil springs have been cut 1 coil. I used a little faster than stock rebuilt steering gear from NAPA. Car drives and handles well on the street with these relatively inexpensive upgrades. Future refinements include Upper and lower control arms and better shocks.
Condition: Restored in the 1990s. Nice driver that gets a lot of compliments but is showing some age. Drives great and was recently professionally tuned. Sounds mean at idle and has plenty of power but isn't finicky in cold/hot weather like many hot rods. Starts easily at 10 or 100 degrees. One tiny tear in the rear seat and 2 in headliner <1 inch, otherwise no tears or cracks in carpet/dash/upholstery. Solid frame and floors.
Drivetrain: 400 c.i. Pontiac Firebird V8 (non-original block), original #16 heads/TH400 automatic/Safe-T-Trac (posi) rear, power front disc brakes and power steering
OK, to help others, here is the problem I found causing this and the solution.
I removed the EGR valve and it was very sooty. The car would die after a warm-up at red lights even with the vacuum source to the EGR valve removed. I removed the EGR valve, tapped the openings in the cast iron intake and threaded in pipe plugs. No vacuum leak, no exhaust leak, no EGR valve. Appears as the car warmed up the EGR would leak more to the point the car would not idle.
The car continues to idle fine now and has more vacuum at idle than before. I did check vacuum, about 17 at idle. The timing was 8 degrees.
Thanks for the feedback. I guess $8k is the FOD price here in Alberta when your insurance want's to terminate your coverage. I got more quotes some lower and some higher. Online quotes did not look that good as the detail was very short on description. Got a decent quote from my car insurer so going with them. It's around $4k but I get $300k on shop, $430k on residence. Plus insurance on boat and motor, contents on buildings, water, sewer, misc gotchas, da wife's cassette tape collection ( lol )
1500 sq. ft. hillside bungalow on 4 acres. The shop is similar in size. It's 1500 sq. ft. upstairs and 1500 sq. ft. on the main floor.
Still a little high but someone gots to pay for the wild fires!