Bought a couple of wounded 67 birds and one was a OHC-6 and one was a 326 V-8 One car is giving most of its soul to save the other. Since one was a 6 and one an 8 I'm guessing in the day they used different axles ? One is a GM 10 bolt with the big bump out on the top of the cover the other is the hour-glass shaped one (8.2?) looks like the one in my lemans and cutlass. I like the factory duel traction bar things on the 8's car even though I'm not building a race car. anyway i'll try to post pics. any opinions on what's a better axle ?
Can you see any of the codes on the axle shafts? Do you have access to lift or can you test the ratio by spinning the tires?
1968 400 Coupe, verdoro green, black vinyl top 1968 400 Convertible, verdoro green, black top 1971 Trans Am, cameo white, auto 1970 Buick Skylark Custom Convertible 350-4(driver)
The bottom photo shows a correct '67 OEM axle for Firebirds with both the unused Le Mans upper control arm lugs and the provision for dual traction bars with the brackets welded on below. The upper photo axle was swapped in at some time.
Pontiac got in to the F-Body game late and raided the Le Mans parts bins for Firebird axles for '67 only. The traction bars were their cheap and fast solution for axle hop with the mono leaf rear springs. As a rough rule, auto cars got the passenger side bar only, stick cars got both.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
Neither axle is very strong depending on what you'll be doing, if just cruising you're fine, I swapped in a 70 8.5 10 bolt, you have to shorten the driveshaft if you do this, open up the covers and see what's left of the gears too, they'll need total rebuilds no doubt and you could swap in a nice Eaton posi unit.
thanks, its just a beater/cruiser no radical motor or anything...actually just bought what appears to be a tired 350 ...don't know how deep i want to get into the motor.
goal is to get in and drive ....i hear that with my with the hr glass cover there are limited option for gears and such when I was looking at stuff for my 72 lemans. i won;t be racing it.
The top photo looks like a Chev 8.2 C-clip 10 bolt. From what I've gathered not as strong as the BOP rears. I have one under my 68. From the axle stamping codes I found out it's from a 1969 Camaro. I was worried that it would blow up if I ever got traction so I put a rear girdle cover on, probably a waste of money but made me feel better at the time and at least the cover has a fill and drain plug.. Also had to weld in some spring perches.
As region warrior says, pick the one with the axle ratio closest to what you need and/or the one in the best shape.
Would definitely go with the BOP rear. I think 3.36 is the lowest numerical gear ratio you can buy new. You can buy an Auburn posi for numerically lower ratios, but would have to buy used gears.
Hey AL, what brand diff cover is that? I was shopping for one the other day and most say " not compatible with BO P " . I did find one from ProCar and emailed the company to ask if it would work. The response was it should. I'm not 100% they know.
1968 400 Coupe, verdoro green, black vinyl top 1968 400 Convertible, verdoro green, black top 1971 Trans Am, cameo white, auto 1970 Buick Skylark Custom Convertible 350-4(driver)
Correct it is a TA. They make them for quite a few different rears, Including BOP. I remember back in the 60s and 70s we'd jack up the rears using long shackles and put a chrome plated cover on. Thought they looked great along with the Mickey Thompson mags with the knock offs. The covers looked cool for about a week then leaked oil and not so much. Haven't lost a drop with this one. I've not read of any testing to confirm that they do strengthen the rears, but I guess it can't hurt.The counter guy at the glitter dome had it for his Chev, some SOB stole the car before he put it on, he sold it to me for what it cost the parts store.