I just installed the motor, now the wiring... The switch is there but should there be a relay some where ? I'm going to look at it more tomorrow. Is there a diagram any where in the manuals or has anyone done this ? Any help appreciated... Ron....
69 RA III T/A Auto 69 Sprint vert 3speed ( sold to a new home) 69 350 coupe ( new home in Denver) 69 350 HO 4spd
In '68 there is no relay but I wish there was. I'm about to put in my 4th or 5th top switch over my 41 years with mine. The high current surge leaves a big scar on the switch contacts so they like to fail.
I put relays in my '68. One for up and one for down attached behind the motor and fed by a 10ga lead from the firewall circuit breaker. The motor is much happier with the lower voltage drop and the switch will last forever.
go2fast, Any way you could tell me what relays you used, where you got them and where you mounted them. I have all mine in and working with 10 ga. wire but would like to use relays. Thanks EB
I also did a relay upgrade after smokin my motor for a second time. The 43 yr old wiring and switch was causing a huge voltage drop to the motor. I was seeing 7.5 to 8 volts at the motor when running. Thats very hard on any elect. motor designed for 12 V. Just like go2fast I used a 10 ga. wire and 2 30 amp relays. one for up & one for down and now have the full voltage to the motor. I mounted them in the trunk near the motor under the well liner so you can't see them and they are easy to access.
Got it working ,though I did find out that the up was not , down was..... I Cleaned the switch with contact cleaner, sticks a bit and up now works... New one coming from Ames. I'm not going to put in a iffy switch.. Was fun bleeding the lines, Still a little air in them I hope it will eventually work out to the reservoir. I went with a 20 amp breaker in the feed line with power directly from battery...
69 RA III T/A Auto 69 Sprint vert 3speed ( sold to a new home) 69 350 coupe ( new home in Denver) 69 350 HO 4spd
I took my existing switch apart last week and the contacts were both blackened and pitted. I cleaned the contacts with a Dremmel but once the plastic casing was opened up, it didn't want to all fit back together tight. I had good continuity but the switch seems to be sloppy now. I am awaiting a new one that shipped yesterday from PY.
I used 2 standard modern 5 pin square relays. Any auto parts store has them for around 5 bucks. To do it again I'd use a dual relay socket to keep things a little cleaner looking. I did it this way so if I blow a relay or the 40 amp fuse on the 10 gauge wire direct from the battery I can still plug in the old connectors and get it up or down once.
top pin to motor, up and down right pin to ground left pin to the switch lower pin to 12v from battery.
Is that right? You said five pin so I guess one is just empty.
Also mine is already wired with a 30 amp circuit breaker under the hood and taking the 12v from the horn relay. Can I leave all that the same and start from there and just rewire the back. just add a 10 ga. wire for power to the relay. I am not sure if anything has to change at the switch. Thanks Eldon
I didn't have 4 pin relays but a 5 pin works no problem. One thing to note : The center pin is sometimes labelled 87a and it is live any time the relay is NOT energized (or most of the time). Mine just sits there unused. If you use a relay socket that wire will be live so terminate accordingly.
I ran a separate fused 10 ga wire direct from the battery down the pass side of the car. That is the one that comes in from the right side of my pic. The stock wiring plug fires the relay and goes to pin # 85 on the relay. Then pin #86 is to ground.
If you dont want to run another wire all the way to the back you could do all this under the dash (but I'd use a relay socket). The stock wiring going to the motor from the switch should be of sufficient gauge to carry the current we need. I ran another wire because I was frustrated after another $250 repair bill on the motor and I didn't know what the problem was. I know I over did it, and looking back I think I would do it all under the dash and run 2 new wires from the switch to the motor. Live and learn LOL !!!
Mine looks similar to this. Same Bosch type relays (that's what they are copies of), except I used sockets on mine. You can't see them behind the well liner.