I have been thinking about a radiator upgrade. I have an aftermarket on mine currently (no idea what it is), but the car runs a bit hot now that it is warming up. It sits around 220 on the highway with two fans on. Fill level is good, it has an overflow valve on it that doesn't spit anything unless you overfill it. I'd like to put an overflow reservoir on it, as well as beef it up a bit. Anyone have any suggestions? This is pretty much my last piece of the puzzle after all the rest of the work that's been performed. Last thing is figuring out why the distributor likes to rotate. I see two scenarios: 1. I am just too stupid to find the screwset that holds it in place 2. Something is missing from the electronic ignition install (I didn't install it). It has an Accel electronic ignition in it now. I thought I had it figured out, but after reassembling and checking, still turns. It does get annoying having to time it every 50 miles or so.
Again, thanks in advance for your knowledge and wisdom! Drew
1957 Thunderbird 289 1967 Firebird Base 461 1968 C-20 327
Is the distributor bolt not fully tightening(to long), or working loose? Do you have a Pontiac clamp? Their the best. Are the threads worn? If not fully tightening, try a shorter bolt and/or one with better threads. If all else fails, try some "Blue Loctite". NOT RED!
Although I've had no prob's with an aluminum radiator for over 12 years(maybe cause use my well water?), copper is a better heat dissipater.
The entire distributor housing actually moves. I am not even sure what is supposed to hold it fast. I pulled the service manual from thefirstgensite.com and I can't seem to find what actually secures it in place once it is adjusted properly.
I am beginning to think the answer to this is #1. Thanks again for any info!
1957 Thunderbird 289 1967 Firebird Base 461 1968 C-20 327
I'm not afraid of the aluminum radiators myself. I'm not being an original purist on my build. Just ordered a Champion brand from ebay rated to 750hp for $185 shipped to my door. The welds look great and the holes lined up. Can't complain.
67 Firebird 326 HO 4 spd Numbers Matching 68 Firebird originally 350 4spd Windward blue. Work in progress...
I use an aluminium rad, works well. The only problem I know of is if you put a hole in it, stone or any other flying debris, it's difficult to repair. A copper core just takes a torch and some solder, the aluminium is a different story.
Was just wondering if any of you guys have used the Champion MC370 4-row alum. The specs show it to have .63" wide tubes. So, if my math is correct, those 4 rows are wider than the rads with 2 rows of 1" tubes. The core is also wider, which means that the cooling fins have more surface area.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI