Im in the same boat so dont feel alone. Theres a youtube video by scared shiftless that makes it look pretty simple and he installs it with the motor/trans connected. You may want to check it out just to get some ideas. Ive got a couple more things to do to my firewall and i'll be ready to explore my options as well
There are one hole on each Frame bushing pad. these need to line up with the body bushing pad hole. Use a large dowels size of the hole.... Do this with the with the bushings attached but loose. To Check to see if its square by cross measuring the body at a fixed point to a fixed point on the frame.
Use 1/2 inch diameter bolts into the factory's rough pin alignment holes at the bottom of the firewall inboard of the frame rails itself for the "gross" alignment. Install, but do not torque down the mid and rear subframe bolts. You want the subframe to move a bit with effort.
Refer to the subframe alignment dimensions diagram at the end of the 1st chapter of the Factory Service Manual. For those of us with '67's, it's in the Supplemental manual. The corner to corner alignment specs from the midpoint gauge holes are the most critical. With the body suspended and the subframe free (not weight bearing), whack the subframe with a rubber mallet until those cross dimensions are perfect. I did this last part with the engine/tranny and front suspension already attached.
Last edited by salmon38; 09/20/1704:11 PM.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
Use 1/2 inch diameter bolts into the factory's rough pin alignment holes at the bottom of the firewall inboard of the frame rails itself for the "gross" alignment. Install, but do not torque down the mid and rear subframe bolts. You want the subframe to move a bit with effort.
Refer to the subframe alignment dimensions diagram at the end of the 1st chapter of the Factory Service Manual. For those of us with '67's, it's in the Supplemental manual. The corner to corner alignment specs from the midpoint gauge holes are the most critical. With the body suspended and the subframe free (not weight bearing), whack the subframe with a rubber mallet until those cross dimensions are perfect. I did this last part with the engine/tranny and front suspension already attached.
Thanks for the info guys!
I found some info on the net as well. See attached...
Based on the info I got I: - taped a page of blank paper on the floor below the frame in each location where measurements are made (10 pages) - used plumb bob to locate the measurement locations from the frame to the floor - measured between points marked on floor in order to verify measurements against stock dimensions. - compared my measurements against stock dimensions
Next I will adjust the frame by squaring the frame to the body.
Salmon38, which dimensions are you referring to in regards to "The corner to corner alignment specs from the midpoint gauge holes are the most critical. " ??
It's been and long time and I forgot about the plumb bobs and the marks on my tan epoxy floor. Yes, the most critical measurements I was talking about would be your F, F1, G and G1.
It looks from your table like you got it set up a lot better than the factory probably did it with just the alignment pins on the factory floor.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
This is how I'll going to do it when the time comes...
Find center line between rear frame rails, dimensions H at K, then use plumb-bob to mark floor, use these two marks to extend a center line all the way through to the front sub-frame where rad. support mounts,then use plumb-bob to center sub-frame to center line. Doing it this way everything is measure off true center line of car.
For what it's worth, when I replaced my body mounts I just lined up the alignment holes the best I could and torqued everything down. It seems fine to me. Not sure how precise it needs to be. It may not be worth all that effort for perfection.
For what it's worth, when I replaced my body mounts I just lined up the alignment holes the best I could and torqued everything down. It seems fine to me. Not sure how precise it needs to be. It may not be worth all that effort for perfection.
My biggest concern was body panel alignment problems farther down the road at body work time. I wanted to prevent a major "Oh, crap" moment. Probably overkill, but... Kinda like replacing the heater core while I had the ventilation suitcase out from under the dash.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
For what it's worth, when I replaced my body mounts I just lined up the alignment holes the best I could and torqued everything down. It seems fine to me. Not sure how precise it needs to be. It may not be worth all that effort for perfection.
My biggest concern was body panel alignment problems farther down the road at body work time. I wanted to prevent a major "Oh, crap" moment. Probably overkill, but... Kinda like replacing the heater core while I had the ventilation suitcase out from under the dash.
I figure it's easy to do now as the frame has nothing on it and body is just a shell with quarters on. I'm read for body panels.
Completed floor pan inner and outer rear wheel wells new or patched misc steel panels, rockers, cowls, brackets, supports etc. even original frame was reconditioned
So I figure it's worth aligning as best I can and hopefully things fit close as humanly possible.
CHeers!
Thanks for the feedback guys
Last edited by Gus68; 09/23/1702:07 PM.
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