Could use some help with this. Went on a short 50 miles drive and started to smell brake pads! I found myself having to push the gas pedal more to get moving until I figured out by braked are starting to lock up. They were hot to the touch and smoking! They released after sitting there for about 40 min and I drove her home. Problem is it doesn't do that all the time. This was the 2nd time it did this. I checked all the obvious like booster piston length=check, brake fluid 1/2 under full=check, calipers clean and lubed, incl. installed new hardware. Could it be in the Master of one of the prop valves that's causing this? any help would be appreciated.
It might be possible that you have water or air in the system such that when it heats up, it builds up pressure in the lines. If it is both brakes as Firebob asked, I would bleed your brake system again.
Could use some help with this. Went on a short 50 miles drive and started to smell brake pads! I found myself having to push the gas pedal more to get moving until I figured out by braked are starting to lock up. They were hot to the touch and smoking! They released after sitting there for about 40 min and I drove her home. Problem is it doesn't do that all the time. This was the 2nd time it did this. I checked all the obvious like booster piston length=check, brake fluid 1/2 under full=check, calipers clean and lubed, incl. installed new hardware. Could it be in the Master of one of the prop valves that's causing this? any help would be appreciated.
Newly installed brakes? Front and rear disc? Do you have a brake bleeder kit? Many 1 person kits available to make this job quick and easy.
Pump the brakes to check to see if your lines have air in them. If there is air in the system the brake pedal will rise. Properly bleed systems will not "pump up".
Next time brakes lock up (keep engine running), go look at your brake lights. Check to see if they are on.
Engine Test Stand Playlist: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLwoxyUwptUcdqEb-o2ArqyiUaHW0G_C88 restoring my 1968 Firebird 400 HO convertible (Firedawg) 1965 Pontiac Catalina Safari Wagon 389 TriPower (Catwagon) 1999 JD AWS LX Lawn tractor 17hp (my daily driver) 2006 Sequoia 2017 Murano (wife's car) 202? Electric car 203? 68 Firebird /w electric engine 2007 Bayliner 175 runabout /w 3.0L Mercuiser__________________________________________________________
Could use some help with this. Went on a short 50 miles drive and started to smell brake pads! I found myself having to push the gas pedal more to get moving until I figured out by braked are starting to lock up. They were hot to the touch and smoking! They released after sitting there for about 40 min and I drove her home. Problem is it doesn't do that all the time. This was the 2nd time it did this. I checked all the obvious like booster piston length=check, brake fluid 1/2 under full=check, calipers clean and lubed, incl. installed new hardware. Could it be in the Master of one of the prop valves that's causing this? any help would be appreciated.
Newly installed brakes? Front and rear disc? Do you have a brake bleeder kit? Many 1 person kits available to make this job quick and easy.
Pump the brakes to check to see if your lines have air in them. If there is air in the system the brake pedal will rise. Properly bleed systems will not "pump up".
Next time brakes lock up (keep engine running), go look at your brake lights. Check to see if they are on.
Good info Gus, do you use any of the 1 person bleeder kits? And if so what do you recommend?
The best bleeder I have used is the one I constructed from a Mason jar and a venturi vacuum pump from harborfreight that hooks up to you compressor. You will also need some fittings and tubing. I enclosed it in a wooden box to keep it from getting kicked over. It will pull 25 INHG all day long with no pumping. Total cost was $20.
Best one-person system I've found is the pressure bleeder. (Can't remember the name without going out to the garage) It's like a small Hudson sprayer, with different adapters to fit the master cyl. so you can put pressure on the brake fluid. They're expensive but they work great.
Mine is a Motive Products Power Bleeder.
Last edited by Mushroombert; 03/23/1809:47 AM.
-=>Lee<=- Due to budget constraints the "light at the end of the tunnel" has been turned off!
Here's what I missed...did YOU know that?? Master cylinder first! Then front brakes, then rear! WOW! I do have bleeders on master! Got all the air out and re-cleaned the front caliper bores, pistons and lubed with brake fluid NOT petroleum grease. See attachment from Service manual.
Best one-person system I've found is the pressure bleeder. (Can't remember the name without going out to the garage) It's like a small Hudson sprayer, with different adapters to fit the master cyl. so you can put pressure on the brake fluid. They're expensive but they work great.
[quote=Mushroombert]Best one-person system I've found is the pressure bleeder. (Can't remember the name without going out to the garage) It's like a small Hudson sprayer, with different adapters to fit the master cyl. so you can put pressure on the brake fluid. They're expensive but they work great.
Most important step is to bench bleed the master and make sure all of the air is out. Then the rest should be cake. Start with passenger side rear bleeder then jump to the passenger front when the pedal is still down. You should have steady brake fluid flow after 2 bleeding that will force all the air out. Never underestimate a faulty master cylinder new out of the box. I have had 2 bad ones in a row. If you bleed the brakes for an hour and still have a crappy pedal chances are the master cylinder is no good. With a bad master cylinder it will leak internal and not have good pressure to the rear or front and the pedal will be soft. Also make sure the brake pedal push rod is the correct length so as the piston in the master cylinder reterns all the way back.