So as I am refreshing under my hood my plan was to prime and spray black engine compartment paint. Well as I was painting my frame with por 15 semi gloss I noticed that even though I brushed it on it dries smooth and the Coke is real flat. I have used this before on a Jeep restoration. The stuff sticks to anything and is a Rust prevention. Any reason you could think to not use it on the firewall radiator support and all the radiator top pieces. I’m attaching a photo where you can see the dry color in the frame . Sorry about the orientation of the photo but if you look at the passenger fender I put some on that inside fenderwell so it looks glossy because it is wet but if you look at the frame crossmember you can see how flat it dries. thoughts?
Last edited by acenho; 12/13/1806:39 PM.
Restored by me. Not a professional. Restaurant worker by trade. YouTube forums and some trial and error built this beauty. Sheet metal replacement. Body work. Paint. Rear gears. Interior. And engine. ALL ME. Toot toot
POR 15 is excellent on rusted metal. It's not meant to be painted over existing paint. So if you intend to paint the entire surface you need to do the following: POR 15 Procedures
It's a good product, but you might not want to use it if you don't have any rust issues. You have to top coat the POR-15 if you have sun exposure.
You can use POR 15's product, Chasis Coat Black over POR15 and previously panted surfaces. The satin lays out nice and is a more factory correct finish than gloss black,
So I figured I would post my progress here on this thread as finished painting under the hood. I went with brush on por15 then followed up with their spray on underhood coating. I feel the color is right and it does have a very durable looking finish.
In the pics you’ll see I also took time to run all new stainless brake lines and fuel lines. Also competing new under hood wiring. Also new shocks springs ball joints control arm bushings. Sway bar bushings body mounts wiper motor washer motor well you get it. It’s all new
Also completed the paint that I didn’t do on the fenders and the cowl. Originally I only painted with the hood down not realizing that those parts were to be green also. I figured out one hell of a trick way to blend the paint together at the edge so not to leave a hard finished edge. I should post a video on it as it worked flawless and I’m sure others would like to know how to do it also
Restored by me. Not a professional. Restaurant worker by trade. YouTube forums and some trial and error built this beauty. Sheet metal replacement. Body work. Paint. Rear gears. Interior. And engine. ALL ME. Toot toot
WHAT IS THE BEST SURFACE ON WHICH TO PAINT POR-15? POR-15 likes rusted surfaces best. Seasoned metal and sandblasted metal are also good. POR-15 does not adhere well to smooth, shiny surfaces, but will adhere well to those surfaces with the proper preparation.
WHAT IS THE 'PROPER PREPARATION'? We make a product called 'Metal-Ready'. It's a rust remover that leaves a zinc phosphate coating on base metal, the perfect preprimer for POR-15. NOTE: New steel is coated with a protective oil finish at the mill. This finish must be removed before using POR-15 or Metal-Ready. Clean metal first with POR-15 Marine-Clean, then rinse with water and dry.
To use POR-15 OR regular automotive paint, to paint over existing old paint surfaces you have to prep the surface first.
What's the point of painting over existing paint with rust paint? ... using a paint brush no less! And it looks flat does it? Amazing....
Wet paint sticks to anything. When it cures it shrinks. When the paint shinks it cracks. How big the crack is dependent on the thickness of the paint. Thick paint, big cracks. Just like bondo. Put it on real thin if you intend on using a brush.
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Por15 makes an engine compartment top coat. A satin. Which I believe is the correct finish. If you look in first photo subframe is down to metal and prepping with a rust paint I feel is smart. Time will tell but I feel the color looks right
Restored by me. Not a professional. Restaurant worker by trade. YouTube forums and some trial and error built this beauty. Sheet metal replacement. Body work. Paint. Rear gears. Interior. And engine. ALL ME. Toot toot
Por15 makes an engine compartment top coat. A satin. Which I believe is the correct finish. If you look in first photo subframe is down to metal and prepping with a rust paint I feel is smart. Time will tell but I feel the color looks right
You can't use POR-15 for top coat. You should paint OVER your POR-15 with a top coat paint (they have some at POR-15). You can buy Satin, flat, gloss or gloss by % in regular paint. Your color looks at best flat.
Not trying to be a jerk, trying to save you from doing the same thing I did 35 years ago. Mine was pretty for less than a year.
Maybe your not trying to be a jerk buy you are definitely ignorant. Maybe you didn't note that I said I used POR15 top coat. and yes its designed to go over their original formula. Instead of spitting out your lack of knowledge based on your past failures, new tech is developed all the time, maybe what didn't work 20 years ago is different now. I appreciate your trolling of what a failure job I have done but go ahead and troll someone else that isn't putting the effort into restoring their car on their own and just pays someone to do their work. This restoration has been 100% done by my hands and i believe that I am doing what will allow for the longest lasting and durable under the hood finish I could produce. again as noted under the hood.
BTW because of your total lack of understanding of the product, here is a description from POR15 site
POR-15® Rust Preventive Coating is a high-tech, high performance rust-preventive coating designed for application directly on rusted or seasoned metal surfaces.
and in case you didn't notice in the first pic that is what I put it down on. and also from their website because you just like to troll and run your mouth without understanding
POR-15®Top Coat may be applied directly to a clean prepped metal surface but, when used as a top coat over POR-15®Rust Preventive Coating it provides the toughest, most permanent protection against rust and corrosion ever developed. It won’t crack, chip or peel and will look terrific!
"toughest most permanent protection....wont crack chip peel." and in regards to your finish which apparently my camera is not showing it very well the topcoat I used their "chassis black" which is a satin finish, which is what I was told the finish should look like.
Restored by me. Not a professional. Restaurant worker by trade. YouTube forums and some trial and error built this beauty. Sheet metal replacement. Body work. Paint. Rear gears. Interior. And engine. ALL ME. Toot toot
Here is a better pic of the prep sanded bare metal
Restored by me. Not a professional. Restaurant worker by trade. YouTube forums and some trial and error built this beauty. Sheet metal replacement. Body work. Paint. Rear gears. Interior. And engine. ALL ME. Toot toot
I'm sorry you feel that way. I did not communicate my thoughts very well. I respect the work you have done. I am doing my car with mostly my own hands as well.
I will try to explain my points better today:
IMO, - POR-15 is an excellent product if used for what is was intended for. - Use POR-15 on badly rusted metal - If you use POR-15 over existing paint you have to prepare the area the same as if you were painting the panel with regular automotive paint. So what's the point of putting a rust paint product over paint? - POR-15 will crack, and will peel, if you don't properly prepare the surface. - if you put the coats on too thick it will shrink and crack. Hence the paint brush.
You pic of the metal prepped. Looks good except why do you have surface rust? If you use the products ('Metal-Ready) outlined on the website you would not have surface rust and it would have zinc phosphate coating.
We are always looking for a new "mouse trap". Nothing new here.
If you want to do a good job but not a concurs job that's fine.
Here is maybe a quicker cheaper way to do it: Prep panel like you have done but use the cleaners and metal prep products. Paint the rust areas with POR15. Spray bomb the rest with top coat (any brand you want)
This is a good "refresh" solution and for some projects it's fine.
The most destructive rust comes thru from the other side. For example, if your floor is badly rusted and you only paint one side it will just rust again from the unpainted side.
The best way to do it is remove the panels in order to get access to all the metal surfaces possible (both sides). Cut out rust areas. Patch weld rusted areas. Epoxy seal and top coat.