I could use some thoughts on my clutch. I've got a '69 coupe with a 400 in front of an M21. I used to own this car, sold it 6 years ago, and bought it back a few weeks ago. My memory from 6 years ago is a little fuzzy, but I recall the clutch wasn't great then. When I got the car started a few weeks ago it wouldn't go into gear. I adjusted the connecting rod in and got it to engage, but it still has no free play at the top of the pedal. When I tried turning the rod in all the way it still had no free play.
Also, the pedal seems to sit pretty high. It's quite a bit higher than the brake pedal at rest. The best I can adjust it the clutch seems to catch right about even with the brake pedal at rest. It's just all wrong.
Thinking that I may have to put a clutch in, but the more I think about it it seems like maybe there's something else going on.
First question is - how high should the clutch pedal be compared to the brake pedal when both are up?
Second question - is the rod usually turned most of the way in or out when a clutch is worn?
Third question - If I have to replace the clutch, what would people recommend for street use?
For street use clutches, just get something out of the summit racing catalog. There are several clutch makers and they all work ok. My last clutch purchase was a McCloed.
As far as the linkage, that can all be tricky. There are different thickness throwout bearings and various linkage parts available that may or may not mix and match. You need to get into it and study what is there and maybe do some trial and error with different parts.
From what I’ve observed, clutch pedals are normally higher than the brake pedal.
On our '67 the clutch and brake pedals sit about even. Do you have good brake pedal? On our car, the clutch has about 1" of no resistance and you then get into the serious business of pushing the throwout bearing into the pressure plate fingers. Since your car has been sitting around for a number of years and you are a little fuzzy on the details, why not go ahead and put in a new clutch kit. You can get them pretty reasonable at any of the auto supplies and they will come with a new pilot bearing, pressure plate, clutch disc and throwout bearing. Then when you reassemble you can go through the steps to ensure it is all correct and good to go.
There are several things that could be contributing to your problems. Pics as you disassemble will help us. But a few issues that come to mind: 1. There are two springs in the linkage. A short anti-rattle spring between the clutch fork and bellcrank assembly (I think). 2. The second spring is a heavier gauge and connects clutch fork to a bracket on the frame under the steering box. This may be a short spring and an extension rod, or just a longer spring. This is the clutch fork return spring and by pulling the clutch fork all the way forward, positions the pedal to the max "up" position. By pulling the clutch fork all the way forward, it also keeps the throwout bearing from riding on the pressure plate fingers. 3. There are two different GM throwout bearings, a short one and a tall one. Our cars use the short one. Maybe you have the wrong one in there? 4. I just put a clutch kit in our car. Included with the parts was a piece of instruction showing that it was easy (!) to install the throwout bearing to the clutch fork incorrectly. I couldn't see it myself, but it would be a possibility that the throwout bearing has been installed incorrectly. Backwards maybe, but I really could not see the mixup the instruction showed. 5. If the clutch/transmission has been worked on it the past, maybe some different and incorrect parts were used?
If you decide to go with a new clutch, it will be a good time to give the transmission a good look see... Cal
My clutch pedal sits 1/2-3/4" higher than my brake pedal. I have my linkage set so there is very little play in the top of the pedal before it engages the throw out bearing. I think about 50% of the clutch kits you buy will come with the wrong TO bearing.
I think you're probably all right about replacing the clutch. I haven't had to do a clutch on anything in about 8 years and I haven't done it on this car at all. Seems like it's pretty straightforward. Hopefully something that can be done in an afternoon or so.
I won't have a chance to even look at it for a month or so. The car is still in the midwest and I'm on the west coast right now. The previous owner put some pretty serious lowering springs on this car and I'm planning to replace them the next time I get the chance. Honestly, it sits so low right now that I'm not really sure that I'm going to be able to pull the transmission. This thing bottoms out on some really low speed bumps.
Just to keep it straight in my mind, can someone check me on this? I believe that the further in the adjusting rod is turned, the lower the pedal should be when it engages. Am I correct on that? And that being the case, the pedal may actually be lower if the adjusting rod is turned all the way in. Am I correct on this?
The pedals on my 69 are about even at the top. You are correct, the shorter the adjusting rod the more play at top of the pedal. There is a pedal stop at the top of its throw, right by the neutral safety switch. Dose your car have a rubber bumper there or not? This can change how high the pedal returns. Also there were two different pressure plates available for our cars back in the day. The heavier duty had a higher diaphragm and used the shorter throw out bearing. The correct bearing must be used, but it is easy to see the difference when looking at the pressure plates side by side.
Also check the bellcrank holes top and bottom they may be elongated or oval this can cause problems too . The holes can be drilled out and bushings install or you can just replace the bellcrank . If you do replace the bellcrank DO NOT order the one for the small block chevy you HAVE to use the big block crank. Ask me how I know . The small block one uses different geometry and will not disengage the clutch. Here is the correct big block crank . https://www.summitracing.com/oh/par...mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-oer You can see the difference here . https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/sto...=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1