My car usually sits for a week before I take her out, but every time when I initially start it (only after its been sitting for a week) I pump the gas pedal 2-3 times and it takes maybe 10+ seconds for it to start. Which seems pretty long. Once its running and I drive it and shut it off, l it starts instantly. My choke works, original carb (rebuilt 2 years ago), all ignition components/plugs are a year old. Any suggestions on where to look/focus on?
For as long as I've owned mine (50 years) I find that I need to keep pumping the gas pedal steadily while I crank it to start it after sitting. Never timed it but it is probably a few seconds before it fires up. With the exception of a hot starter problem or an occasional vapor lock-like delay when VERY hot, if it cranks, it starts quickly after warmed up.
For as long as I've owned mine (50 years) I find that I need to keep pumping the gas pedal steadily while I crank it to start it after sitting. Never timed it but it is probably a few seconds before it fires up. With the exception of a hot starter problem or an occasional vapor lock-like delay when VERY hot, if it cranks, it starts quickly after warmed up.
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I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
Yeah, maybe it is considered normal. Was hoping that maybe a carb float adjustment or something would help. I've also had my eye on one of those Petronix ignitor kits for inside of the original distributor to help start if faster and run more efficient, would look original and eliminate the points. Anyone try these?
A buddy of mine swears by them and has been trying to convince me to switch over. But I believe in 'if it ain't broke, don't fxxxx it'.
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
Go electronic. You’ll never go back. No points cleaning or adjustment and the timing never changes. The only drawback is it will be vulnerable to EMP attack.
My cars crank for a long time after sitting several weeks. Always assumed the gas evaporated out of the carb and the fuel pump had to refill it.
My cars crank for a long time after sitting several weeks. Always assumed the gas evaporated out of the carb and the fuel pump had to refill it.
Same here. The vapor pressure of today's fuels is much lower than when these cars were built. Thus today's gas evaporates a lot faster.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
1. When engine is cold: press down on gas pedal to the floor and let off. This squirts fuel into the carb and sets up on fast idle and full choke 2. Turn the car over...it should fire up without any additional work.
If last started more than a month ago it might take seconds longer to start but it will start without any pumping the gas.
When you have to pump for gas it typically means your not getting enough choke.
I fire up my 88' motorhome with 454 Chev and it works every time.
New cars use fuel injection. You never start a car with FI like you do for aspirated.
If this process does not work then check choke linkage, fuel leakage from float bowel. Leak back from fuel line.
Engine Test Stand Playlist: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLwoxyUwptUcdqEb-o2ArqyiUaHW0G_C88 restoring my 1968 Firebird 400 HO convertible (Firedawg) 1965 Pontiac Catalina Safari Wagon 389 TriPower (Catwagon) 1999 JD AWS LX Lawn tractor 17hp (my daily driver) 2006 Sequoia 2017 Murano (wife's car) 202? Electric car 203? 68 Firebird /w electric engine 2007 Bayliner 175 runabout /w 3.0L Mercuiser__________________________________________________________
Thanks! It is possible that my choke needs adjustment. I set the fast idle to 1000rpm from 1500 cause I didn't like the car to rev hat high when cold. Maybe need to find a happy medium. Thanks all for your feedback.
I keep a little squirt bottle of Truefuel in the garage (no ethanol and stabilizers built in). When the car has been sitting for a longer than usual amount of time I squirt a little shot in the carb before starting. Works like a charm. I figure all that cranking can't be good and it's just waiting for gas anyway...
As an example - we have migrated completely now to key in the pocket/push the big Start button on the dash.
I had to undo 40 years of driving habits to get used to that. In fact, the very 1st time I didn't. Ended up taking the key for my Mustang rental in 2015 all the way to the airport gate before realizing I still had it.
The wife's new Bimmer drives me nuts. I can't wash the car with the key in my pocket because as I wash around the door handles, it keeps locking and unlocking the car ("convenience" access option).
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
When I was quite young, back in the early 1950s, my Dad got a newer used car. Instead of pulling out the choke cable, turning the ignition switch to on, then pressing the starter solenoid with the ball of his foot while pressing on the gas with the heel of his foot, the newfangled car had a push button on the dash that engaged the starter. They advertise the push to start feature like crazy now-a-days. Of course the car wouldn't exactly start unless the ignition switch had first been turned to on. Well one day I managed to get the door open and climb up on the seat, I couldn't see out of the windshield unless I was standing on the seat holding onto the wheel. I managed to push the start button on the dash and was quite thrilled when the car lurched forward, it was in first gear. My first road trip as a driver, I made it about a block and a half when the battery went dead in front of my Grandmother's house. She was always proud of her grandson who would take the time to drive down and have tea with her.
I have to crank my bird a bit after it's been sitting for a few weeks, but it doesn't have a choke. I would think if the choke is set up correctly, there should still be enough gas in the bowl and accelerator pump well to give it enough of a shot to start after only sitting a week. As mentioned above, pedal to the floor then let up and crank it over
Maybe next time it sits for a week, before you try to start it open the hood, take off the air cleaner, open the throttle all the way by hand while looking into the throat and check if the accelerator pump is squirting fuel down the venturi and if the choke is setting correctly. If the choke came on and the squirters squirted fuel just crank the engine with no pumping of the pedal. Should start and fast idle without touching the gas pedal. If it doesn't squirt fuel and/or the choke does not set, you at least know what direction you have to take to rectify.
Maybe next time it sits for a week, before you try to start it open the hood, take off the air cleaner, open the throttle all the way by hand while looking into the throat and check if the accelerator pump is squirting fuel down the venturi and if the choke is setting correctly. If the choke came on and the squirters squirted fuel just crank the engine with no pumping of the pedal. Should start and fast idle without touching the gas pedal. If it doesn't squirt fuel and/or the choke does not set, you at least know what direction you have to take to rectify.
No that's not true, old carbs have to be punched to set the choke and high idle, after sitting for a week todays gas with ethanol will evaporate depnding on temps but after returning home and your engine is hot the fuel will evaporate. Also sometimes the fuel could be slowly returning to the tank over a week and air is coming in to the carb while this happens, you still need to goose the pedal to set the choke and high idle cam.
I'll have to respectfully disagree with you on the choke thing. When you put the pedal to the floor, If the choke is set up correctly and the bi metal spring is cold the spring will pull the choke on, which in turn will pull the fast idle cam up releasing the throttle will cause the idle screw to set on the cam for a fast idle to warm up. After the engine has warmed up the bimetal spring opens the choke and the fast idle is no longer held in position by the choke, the cam weight is supposed to return the cam to normal position by itself through vibration but sometimes the pressure of the throttle keeps it in the fast idle position. it's common to have to goose the throttle to release the fast idle cam The action of opening the throttle all the way will activate the piston in the accelerator pump well and squirt a shot of fuel into the venturis, Sometimes one can slowly open the throttle and avoid a shot but a normal pressing the pedal to the floor should give the bores a shot.