Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Alignment Specs

I have had a lot of questions about the alignment specs for the 1967 – 69. Does anyone have this information in their resources and would like to share?

A: It’s right there in the 69 Factory Service Manual, page 3-18.

Caster…………+1/2 degree
Camber…………+1/4 degree
Toe-in…………1/8″ to 1/4″
SAI……………8-3/4 degrees with 1/2 degree camber (steering axis inclination)
Toe-out on turns..2 degrees, measured in left to right direction of toe-out at 20 degrees turn of inside wheel.

Caster and Camber specs were listed by the aftermarket (like alignment equipment manufacturers; Hunter etc.) to have a range, like caster was +1/2 degree, plus or minus 1/2 degree; and camber was 1/4 degree plus or minus 1/2 degree. These were prone to lesser technicians stating “good enough” when the car was wearing tires and pulling to one side. Evenly matched settings from one side to the other are best, with a slight offset to compensate for road crown in some parts of the country, where the road shape pushes the car towards the ditches.

When I used to do alignments (and I’ve done probably thousands) during the 70’s when people were putting radial tires on cars that came with bias or bias/belted tires, the industry standard was to add 2 degrees of caster to whatever the specification was. It is not usually possible to get 2-1/2 degrees of positive caster on most 67-69 F-cars unless you add offset control arm shafts, but anything over the 1/2 degree is very helpful on radial tire, especially with wider tires. In addition, keep the camber and toe-in minimal with wider tires for prolonged tire wear life.

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Q: Body Bushing Replacement Procedure

Does anyone have a procedure for changing the body bushings? I’ve never attempted this and I want to try. There has got to be a painless way, and I’m sure you guys have tried everything. May main questions are, how do I lift the body away from the frame without screwing something up. What needs to be disconnected (Andy mentioned disconnecting the steering coupler). Do I need any special tools.

A: A way to change the radiator support bushings without disassembling the car. You can do the other 4 bushings while you’re at it.

The first step is to disconnect the steering coupler. This will make it much easier to replace the bushing closest to the steering box. The passenger side radiator support bushing will be much easier to replace if you pull the battery tray, which I didn’t do, but will next time.

Next, remove the radiator support bushing bolts, and the bumper support bracket bolts that connect the brackets to the subframe (2 bolts each side).

Next, chock the back wheels and jack up the front of the car, using a floor jack on the cross-member. Raise the car far enough to place jackstands at the very front end of the rocker panels. I used stands on which the piece that contacts the car is cast. Its footprint roughly matches the rectangular flat area on the rocker panel.

Loosen the four remaining subframe bushing bolts, but do not remove. Slowly lower the jack just far enough for the radiator support bushings to clear the radiator support. You may have to reposition the jackstands once or twice if the jack begins to move as a result of lowering the subframe. Be sure to get all the hardware out (there are various washers and such in there).

Install the new bushings and slowly jack up the subframe. You may have to coax the lip of the new bushings through the subframe holes. I used a small flathead screwdriver. Install the bolts, but do not tighten.

With the jack still supporting the weight of the subframe, replace the remaining bushings one at a time. This is fairly easy, especially with the steering coupler disconnected. Snug all 6 bolts, lower the car, and torque all of the bolts. This is the step where Hugo’s lift would come in handy, as you want to torque everything with the car on the ground.

That’s all there was to it. If your bushings are the originals, you should be extremely happy with the handling improvement. I sure was. Let us know how it goes. If anyone sees a step I forgot, please speak up.

A: I knew as soon as I clicked send I’d think of something. Rather than chocking the back wheels, you should raise the back end. This will result in the car being level once you get the front ends of the rocker panels up on jackstands. I used ramps on the back, but you could use a second pair of jackstands.

A: Well, I now know that it is possible to replace the radiator support bushings in an assembled Firebird. I ended up using Roy Lumsden’s idea of supporting the body at the front ends of the rocker panels and lowering the subframe on a floor jack. It worked like a champ! Thanks, Roy, for the idea.

While I was at it I replaced the body/subframe bushings as well. I had trouble getting enough clearance to remove the upper half of the bushing that mounts below the driver’s floor pan. I finally realized that I was fighting the steering column/steering box connection. When I was done I had to loosen and then tighten the bolts holding the steering column plate to the firewall in order to fix binding in the column (the new, thicker, bushing lowered the box relative to the body).

With all new bushings it is like a completely different car. I’d already rebuilt the whole front and rear suspensions, and replaced the shocks, which made for a much better ride, but the most dramatic improvements in handling were made by replacing these bushings and recently replacing the broken motor mounts. All the squeaks and rattles are gone and handling is great. Now I may not bother going to 15 inch rims. I just wish I could have done all the refurbishing together to get the full effect all at once!

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Q: Body Mount Alignment

Can you elaborate on what your steps were to replace the the body mounts? Did it affect the alignment?

A: the front bushing mounting platform (the thing the bushing sits on) there is a hole approximately 5/8 in is diameter. This hole lines up with an identical hole on the body. What they are there for is for body alignment when re-installing the subframe. All you do is take a piece of pipe ( I use a tire iron) and slide it through both holes (the frame and body holes) and make sure that they are vertically aligned.

If your replacing the bushings with out removing the subframe, the above procedure won’t be necessary. By only replacing one side at a time AND with front fenders bolted in place, the frame should remain in the correct position.

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Q: Body Mount Replacement

How do I replace my body mounts

A: It’s not that difficult to replace of you have a hydraulic jack and a little patience and do one side at a time.

First break loose all four body bushing bolts. You’ll probably need a breaker bar and a pipe extension. The sub-frame bolts are located at the base of the firewall and under the front seat pedestal. If they look rusty, you can soak them in a good rust penetrate for a couple of days before you try to break them loose. You’ll need to remove the seats and fold back the carpet to soak the two at the back of the subframe. The firewall bolts/nuts are accessible from the engine compartment or from under the car.

After you’ve broken all four loose, put a piece of 2×6 on top of the jack to spread the load and lift the body at the front of the rocker panel. As you lift, you’ll see the frame separate from the body. You’ll need to lift the body to gain about 3/4 inch separation to R&R the bushings. You may have to use a pry bar to assist in the separation. That’s about it.

A: I changed mine, but had the front sheet metal apart at the time. I sprayed each bushing, bolts, and nuts with penatrating oil the day before. I also had the carpet (and interior) out of the car so I could get at the captive nuts under the seats for the rearmost bushings. The front 2 are actually in the engine compartment near the inner wheelwell. The bolts broke loose pretty easily with a breaker bar. I then cleaned and painted the entire subframe.

One difficulty, and it wasn’t that bad, was aligning the subframe up with the holes in the floor when putting it back together. It took nearly an hour to do this, since the subframe arms needed to be squeezed together slightly to match the holes.

If you don’t want to remove the sheetmetal, I’d loosen, but not remove the 4 bolts. Then working on one side, remove one bolt completely, leaving the other loose, but with the nut in place.

Using jackstands to support the body (place a wide piece of wood at least 2″ thick to spread the contact area between the jackstand head and the foor of the car),pull the bushing out. At this point, I’d try to apply POR15 or some other rust inhibitor to the subframe area and body where the bushing sits. These areas are prone to rust, and this is the time to stop or prevent it. Some cars may in fact need repair if the rust is bad enough. The new bushings, like the old ones, are 2 pieces, with one sandwiched between the body and subframe. The other half fits under the bolt head, on the underside of the subframe.

With the new bushing and bolts in place, but not tightened down, do the other bushing on the same side. Now do the same with the other side. Once that’s done, you can tighten all four bolts down. The key here is not to completely remove both bolts on the same side, or to tighten any of them until all 4 are done.

With the weight of the engine, and front clip sitting on the subframe, this may add some degree of difficulty to the job. But I’d try it myself. I had my car apart because it was being prepped for body work and paint. And it needed a fair amount of the front clip replaced anyway. Well, ok, the whole front clip got replaced. Plus I have the knowledge that I took care of all the details in that area.

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Q: Should I attempt body mount replacement

My 1968 f-bird convertible has deteriorated rubber body mounts. How hard of a job will it be to replace these? Are the bolts usually rusted to a point where they break off when you try to unscrew them? If any one has experience doing this please offer some advice if I am getting into a MAJOR headache.

A: I would definitely take a look to see if the perches that the mounts sit on are ruted away, or have sustained any cracks away from the frame itself. I did a frame off restoration on my 1968 bird and found every perch both rusted to the thickness of paper, and also multiple cracks rendering it unsafe unless rewelded and reinforced.

A: I did this on a 65 GTO convertible and had no problems, but this was on a rust free California car. If your car has extensive rust it may be harder. If you can get to it, soak the threads with WD-40 for a couple of days. When trying to break the bolts loose try rocking the wrench back and forth instead of applying brute force only to the “off” direction. Also try wacking the head of the bolt a few times with a hammer — this sometimes helps loosen things up. Just do it. You sure as hell won’t get it done if you don’t try. Good Luck!

A: mentioned by others, be sure to check the frame to look for rust problems before you stick in a bunch of new bushings. The jagged edges of a rusty mount will eat up a new bushing. If you want to repair the area instead of replacing the sub-frame, look for some large washers to “sandwich” the frame and tack weld them into place. To keep the body alignment close do only one side at a time. as far a rusty body bolts, I’ve seen them come out with only half the bolt remaining. Instead of WD-40 (which is a lubricating/penetrant) I would use something like “Liquid Wrench” (a penetrent) because its designed to cut through rust. Another trick if you have access to a torch is to remove the front seats and carpet and heat the captured nuts (located in the seat pedestal area) before you try to remove the bolt. Good luck.

A: I just wanted to thank any & all that posted tips on body bushing replacement. I just finished doing mine in polyurethane. It was the best small dollar investment I’ve put into the car so far. No more steel against steel squeaks when ya touch a fender. The doors appeared to have bad hinges on it before the job. Now they line up and close like new. My front clip even looks more in line. I even got the bumper aligned better. Anyway…………THANKS again!!!

P.S. On the frame connectors….. (1) the bolt on ones can be welded in (but you’ll never be able to change 4 of the 6 cage nuts that retain the leaf springs) (2) Manufacturer recommends that you crossdrill where the subframe meets the connector and bolt each with 4 1/2″ bolts (3) they won’t fit a convertible without a notch in either the connectors or in the offending brace under the car. I choose to notch the connectors and weld plate back in the hole.

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Q: Bushing Materials — Pros. and Cons.

I have heard a lot of debate for what type of body bushings to use. Can anyone give me a definative answer?

A: Bushing Materials– Pros and Cons.

NVH – Stands for Noise, Vibration, and Harmonics. Typicall things an engineer wishes to limit in a car design. Something a racer isn’t too worried about.

Rubber: Measured in durometer units, they can vary in hardness. Most stock bushings are fairly soft and are a compromise to offer reasonable handling but keep the ride relatively smooth. Remember that the factory had to sell these cars to both speed enthusiats as well as buyers who would be troubled by a harsh ride or NVH.The Ford Mustang especially was criticized for it’s harsh ride, and Pontiac sought to improve on that. The WS6 cars of later years (including the present) use a harder durometer rubber bushing to limit deflection.

The downside of rubber is that it decays and wears out. This is accelerated when the car is pushed very hard as in road racing or heavy drag racing.

Polyurethane: A relatively inexpensive upgrade that limits deflection. Users typically see an increase in NVH, but is acceptable to those more interested in performance driving. This is a synthetic material recently introduced into automobiles. Some of the big names in aftermarket suspension designers use this such as Saleen (Mustangs), SLP, Kenny Brown, Hochkiss, etc. Since deflection is the enemy of precise handling, limiting it is a good thing.

The downside of polyurethane is that it is very prone to squeaking, and sometimes bind. The squeaking can be eliminated or at least limited by modifying the bushing shells to accept a grease fitting and lubing them regularly. Another bad aspect of polyurethane is cold flow. It seems that after a period of time, especially under hard use, the bushing material may deform, slowly flowing like a liquid, ultimately needing replacement. Increased harsness can be expected. I put them in a 1970 El Camino, and it is noticable. Because it is much heavier than my Firebird, the weight of the car offsets the stiffer ride. I’ve also got them in the front of my 1986 Mustang GT ragtop. I find the ride quite acceptable. But that car also has a 6 point roll cage, subframe connectors, and Koni shocks/struts. On rough roads with potholes, it isn’t very fun. But that isn’t very often either. Maybe if I lived in New Jersey…

Steel/nylon or aluminum/nylon (Duralum): Absolutely a sure fire way to get rid of deflection. Companies such as Global West, VSE, and others tout this as the best choice for slot car like handling. Some of my road racing pals use these as well as heim joints in the suspension. These are usually dedicated race cars, but not always.

The downside is increased NVH. I know that Glen says it was either not increased, or at least tolerable. But I suggest to anyone considering these to try and get a ride in a car already equipped. You may like what it does for your car, but it will come at a price measured in increased NVH. Some can live with it and be very happy with the results. Others cannot.

What did I choose formy Firebird? Stock replacement rubber (TRW). My car is a convertible that had a lot of squeaks and rattles that I hoped to eliminate when I rebuilt it. I decided that I could live with the deflection in trade for a nicer ride. I’ve got other cars I can turn to when it comes to burning up the twisties.

You have to decide what you want to get out of your car, and what you are willing to trade off. Once you know that, the choices may become more clear.

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Q: Chassis Paint

Is the firewall the same color as the body? If not … does anyone have the paint codes for the (various?) colors (black?) needed for the subframe, firewall, inner guards, radiator support and so on? I have decoded the cowl tag and the color is D/D ie Alpine Blue upper / lower

A: Fire wall is semi gloss black. Paint from AMES or Year Ones is excellent.

A: I pulled this out of a 30th anniversary Camaro magazine but pretty sure it also applies to Firebird:

Egg shell black lacquer for: Firewall, Inner radiator support, and other engine compartment sheet metal:

PPG (Pittsburg Paints)
2 quarts “mixing black” #386
1 guart “universal flattening agent”
One quart “mixing clear” #310
Use PPG #DDL-16 or DuPont #3608S

or

DuPont
2 quarts “mixing black” #406
1 guart “universal flattening agent” 850
One quart “mixing clear” #465
DuPont #3608S

For the under carrage, Frame and suspention use enamel (easier to clean up for show):

PPG Delstar or Dupont Centari
3 quarts mixing black (sometimes called “strong black”)
1 quart flattening agent
Use PPG DTR601 quick dry reducer

The above is for the “purists” who like the correct shade of black. I’ve had good luck with three parts cheap chassis black and one part universal flattening agent. Comes out semi flat and looks great on the firewall, and chassis.

A: You can contact the paint manufacturers on line, give them the color and year, and they will give you the codes or equivalent in base/clear. Or you can contact via 800 numbers. They are very helpful.

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Q: Radiator Bushings

How do the radiator bushings fit? It’s a standard two piece rubber bushing, one half of the bushing has a metal sleeve, the other half is just rubber. Does the metal sleeve half fit in between the frame and support? Does this bushing use a large metal ‘washer’ like the body mount bushings do?

A: You’ve got the right idea. The bushing w/the metal sleeve fits between the frame and radiator support, with the sleeve protruding upward. The other rubber piece sits on top of the support, over the sleeve. This half of the bushing has a large hole on one side, and a smaller hole on the other. Place it with the large hole fac- ing downward. Two large washers are used, one on top, and another on the underside of the frame. In addition, you should have a med- ium sized washer, a lock washer, and nut. Push the bolt in from above with one of the large washers. Use the remaining washers on the bottom.

Some repro bushings are a little large for the radiator support hole (at least it was on mine), so some triming and filing may be required. In addition, the bolt was short. The GM bushings are correctly sized, and with the correct length bolts.

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Q: Subframe Alignment

I removed my front subframe assembly to repair the bodymounts as the holes had rusted out to more than double their original size. I patched them with body mount repair plates from Performance Years. All looked good before welding, however I must have screwed up after I took my measurements because the front mount holes are now about 2/10″ length wise off each other. Didn’t notice that it had move before I welded and now I figure it out after the frame has been primed and painted……Can I get away with this small inconsistency?

A: Use two 3/4 in diameter rods to line the body with subframe before modifying any mounts. There is an alignment hole on the lower cowl section that this rod will fit into and should be perpendicular to frame if aligned right.This can be slid up and into the cowl from underneath the car.

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Q: Subframe Difference from 1967 to 1968

I know that the 1967 and 1968 subframes are different. Can someone tell me something I can measure to tell which year I have. My wife’s bird had a 1968 nose on it when we got it and I wonder if the subframe was changed as well.

A: You don’t need to measure anything. The easiest way to tell is the steering linkage. The 1967 Firebird was the first and last year to position the linkage behind the front wheels instead of in front.

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Q: Subframe Differences Between Years

Guys do any of you know if the subframe up front is the same on a 1968 as a 69???

A: There are some subtle differences in 67-9 sub frames. Functionally they will interchange. All three have differences in the steering linkages not just 69.

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Q: Undercarriage Painting

What is the absolute most rugged and above all, correct paint for the underside of my 1968 bird??? I’m talking frame, floor boards, front wheel wells and firewall. In the recent issues of HPP, Jim’s 1967 was featured with talk about using PPG products and the various gloss levels. That’s great.. But which PPG products??? Anyone know? I want mine to be correct and I will use a spray gun rather than a spray bomb. Your helpful hints appreciated as always.

A: Here is what I got from a (gulp) Camaro restoration article. I can’t imagine the Firebirds being different:

Firewall, inner radiator support, and othr engine compartment sheet metal:

PPG paints
– two qts “mixing black” #386
– one qrt “universal flattening agent”
– one qrt “mixing clear” #310
– use PPG #DDL-16 quick dry thinner or DuPont #3608S.

Undercarrage, frame and suspension:
Egg shell black enamel;
– three qrts mixing black
– One qrt flattening agent
– use PPG DTR601 quick dry reducer

Enamel is used for these pieces because it’s more durable than lacquer and will quickly wipe clean for “showing of” purposes.

A: In this day and age Im surprised that anyone would use laquer or enamel for a place like the underside of the body. There are many good urethanes that are far superior to enamels or laquers, for chip resistance,and general wear and tear. Most of these urethanes have flattening agents to get the proper dullness or gloss. You do need to play with mixing to get the proper amount of flattner vs. gloss. Anyone tried the POR-15 semi-gloss? Curious as to the correctness of the gloss. Also dont forget to do this before you paint body so you can get overspray on the rockers and into the cowl area as the factory did. Carefully mask the frame and leaf springs, and all cables lines etc. Just remember how this was all done at the factory.

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Q: Undercoating Removal

I’ve got the Black tar like stuff on the bottom of my 68, I’m trying to get it off so I can prime the under side. It’s sticky and a pain to removal. Anyone have any tips?

A: Sounds like the undercoating I had on my convertible. The way I removed the junk was to heat it with a propane torch just until it becomes soft. I would then scrape it off using a cheap scraper. I rounded the corners of the scraper so I wouldn’t gouge the metal. When I heated the undercoating, it would peel off in strips. Once I had removed the most of it, I used a Scotchbright scrubbing pad, mineral sprits, and a rag. I feel for you. It’s a nasty job. Be sure to wear gloves and goggles.

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Q: Underside Painted or Coated

Here’s one for you old guys. When you bought a car back in 67-70 was the under side painted/coated? Were all these cars rolling off the line with shiny silver bottoms? I seem to remember my Dad talk about the dealer undercoating the car as an extra. And it was that black tar like stuff; cause that seems to be whats on the under side of my convertible.

A: As far as the underbelly of these “vintage” cars, they were painted. Undercoating was a dealer installed option. The owner of the car I just finished restoring opted to do without it.

Because of the superior coatings and galvanizing, the new cars actually do better without it.

A: My 1968 Sprint Bird came from dealer with an undercoating and a paint treatment called “Ming Paint Treatment”. ( and we think of dealer add ons as a new thing) The undercoating was /is a yellowish waxy paraffin substance that looks like beeswax. It was easily removed with lots of rags and mineral spirits.(better than scraping). All areas other than overspray of body color would be semi-gloss black. As far as I know the factory didnt offer rust prevention/undercoating until the 80s. A friend bought a T/A new in 78 and tried his darnedst to order car with it. He ended up going to Rusty Jones and having it done.

A: I will clarify this myself before someone reads it wrong.. The undercoating at each wheel well that is neatly masked off when sprayed on is factory. This was used more as a sound deadner that a rust proofing/ undercoating. Ive heard some people say they scraped it off, but if its not rusted around it ,so as to get underneath then I would leave it alone. It is hard to duplicate the texture of this sound deadner and this stuff really works good. As far as the rest of the underside of car factory didnt offer it. An option on the GTOs was to delete sound deadner and body dum dum. It saved alittle under 100#s and was mainly for drag racers..

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Q: Wheel Well Plugs

I need the part # for the wheel well plugs. I noticed one of mine was missing during my undercoater removal. The under coating was so thick, I didn’t know there were plugs there till I hit them w/ the screw driver. Maybe that missing plug allowed all the garbage out, because my rockers are in great shape.

A: The part number for the wheel well plugs is GM#0480-5844. The only difference between the original plug and the new plug is the original had the part number molded into the back side (that’s how I found these), otherwise, they are identical.

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Q: Do other Remote Mirrors Fit for 1968

One question. I have the opportunity to but a new 1968 remote GTO mirror for about $100 US. Does anyone know if it fits the firebirds of that year and if so is it a reasonable price?

A: ….The 1968 Firebird and GTO used slightly different SideView Remote Mirrors. The difference is in the Mounting Base. However, It should bolt on physically. I should have some pictures ready tonight or tomorrow that will show the difference between the two mirrors. $100 is a very good price for an NOS SideView Remote Mirror. Here are some Casting Numbers that should help you. They are located on the bottom of the mounting base….

1968 Firebird 9792566
1968 GTO 9787847
1968 FullSize 9787846

A:…The 1968 Firebird O/S Remote Control Mirror WAS different from the “A” and “B” bodies of that year. The difference is in the Base (or mounting pedestal).

Mirror Mounting Base Casting Numbers:
– 1968 Firebird: 9792566
– 1968 Tempest: 9787847
*These are visible on the bottom of the Base

In a side-view of the assembly, the dimension between the bottom of the Mirror Housing and the top edge of the Mounting Base is different between all models. Also, the distance from the back of the Mirror Housing to the inside curve of the Base is different. Besides this, the cable length varies from model to model.

Remote O/S Mirror Assembly Part Numbers:

• 1968 Firebird (round) 9792565
• 1968 Firebird (rect.) 3934583
• 1967 Firebird 3899857
• 1968 Tempest 9792564
• 1968 Full-Size 9792562 (also same ’65-’67 All exc. Firebird)
• 1968 Grand Prix 9793985

*These are ‘accessory numbers’; only good if NOS or still in original box.

So, be careful when you’re considering purchasing a mirror for your 1968 Firebird’ many parts dealers will try and tell you that ‘they’re all the same’ but it’s not so. Will other mirrors work and fit ? Sure; all depends on how picky you are. Things to consider are the Vent Window, and the Cable lengths as well as the Control Knob/Trim.

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Q: Door Edge Guards

I ordered a set of 1967-1968 Door Edge Guards (Repro). They advertise that these are exact replicas offered at a less expensive price than original replacements. They do not look correct so how do I know if they are correct.

A: …I’ve noticed many places selling ‘correct’ or ‘original’ Door Edge Guards for the 1967, 1968, and 1969 Firebird however, most all are the press-on style (replacement, also used on Camaro). The original GM style for the Firebird was a screw-on type. I have a set of NOS ones and they fit perfectly.

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Q: Door Hinge Interchangeability

Just looking for some information on door hinges. I have a 1969 coupe which has hinges that are in pretty bad shape on the drivers door. Such as not giving the door enough support to open or close properly. I have heard of some hinges being rebuilt some way or another. Also curious about interchangeable hinges such as from a camaro. Any information would be appreciated.

A: All hinges from 1967, 1968, and 1969 are NOT interchangeable. The only hinges that will work are 1969 Camaro and Firebird. National Parts Depot has rebuild kits for upper and lower hinges and a replacement detent roller. Their number is 1-800-874-7595.

Before purchasing, be aware that if the hinges are worn to the point where you’ve “oval-ed” the holes, it’s best to buy new or original used.

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Q: Door Hinges

Are the door hinges interchangeable between the years?

A: 1967 hinges are a 3 bolt design, the 1968 and later being a 4 bolt design. No chance of interchange.

Some hinges use a larger bushing than others, though I’ve not seen any documentation that indicates that it is related to a specific year or model. There are some kits that provide both sized bushings so that the retailer need only stock one part number that covers just about all GM cars.

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Q: Door Interchangability between Years

Does anyone know if you can put 1968 firebird doors on a 1967 firebird and make them work?also what about partial rear 1/4s vs full gm 1/4s(camaro)? I haven’t heard very good things about partial 1/4s-alignment, bird louvers behind doors.

A: 1967, 1968, and 1969 doors do not interchange. 1967 hinges are a 3 bolt type, and the 1968/1969 are a 4 bolt type. 1968 and 1969 don’t interchange because of the obvious difference in shape/character lines.

The aftermarket rear quarters will work with a fair amount of body work. I understand that convertibles represent more of a challange to get them to work. In somecases, rust free used quarters from the Southwest are a good alternative.

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Q: Door Interchangeability

Are the doors/door skins from camaro are interchangeable with firebird???

A: Door skins and doors are interchangeable between like years of Firebirds and Camaros. The only difference you may run into is “bird” etched glass. Also note that hinges are different.

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Q: Door Interchangeability

Need help on 1967 door question, Is the door the same for convert. and coupes? I looked at classic’s catalog and the have complete inner and outers for sale at some later date and no convert. listed for door. Does the vent window unbolt for shipment?/p>

A: The doors were different each year, but the same as the same year of Camaro. Your 1968 will need doors from another 1968, Camaro or Firebird.

A: That depends…….. if you have an early or late 1968 Firebird, they changed the design of mirror so door was also changed. Camaro stayed the same thru the year.

A: …Doors were common for 1967-1969 Coupes and Convertibles however, each year was different (different part numbers) due to Vent Window only in 1967, different Mirrors in 1968, new panels in 1969. Yes, the Vent Window Assy unbolts from the door and the glass assy is separate from the Weather Seal Assy.

A: I’d only add that 1967 doors used a 3 bolt hinge and the 1968 and 1969 cars used 4 bolt hinges. This makes the 1967 and 1968 further incompatible.

The door shells offered by Classic industries are just that, shells. They won’t come with the vent window frame work. You would be expected to transfer that, as well as all of the other internal parts in your door to the new shell. This isn’t very complicated.

See the Jan. 2000 issue of Chevy High Performance, “Just Wing It”, for a description of removing this part (as well as weather stripping install), as well as your “1967 Fisher Body Guide”.

A: 1967, 1968, and 1969 doors do not interchange. 1967 hinges are a 3 bolt type, and the 1968/1969 are a 4 bolt type. 1968 and 1969 don’t interchange because of the obvious difference in shape/character lines.

The aftermarket rear quarters will work with a fair amount of body work. I understand that convertibles represent more of a challange to get them to work. In somecases, rust free used quarters from the Southwest are a good alternative.

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Q: Door Lock Assy

Is there a difference for the door latch assy betweent the years and no difference between standard and custom interior?

A: The Door Latch Assy was different for all (3) years on the 1st Generation Firebird. This was actually referred to as the “Door Lock Assy”. You are correct; there was no difference between the Lock Assy for Custom or Std. Trim. There was however, a difference between the inside Handle Remote Control (Latch Release Mechanism) as well as the Link Rod for this for the Cust. & Std. Trim Option.

From what you describe, it sounds as if you may have a defective Lock (Latch) Assy or, they are from another type of vehicle. Be sure you have the correct Lock Assy and O/S Handle & Button Assy for your specific car.

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Q: Door Mirrors for 1968

Was there an optional passenger side side view mirror available and how do I find the correct one for my car. Were there two different kinds used in 68: 1967 mirrors on some of the firebirds in 1968 and some 1968 mirrors on others. How do I find out which ones I need? To make matters worse I need the remote type for the drivers side.

A: …In 1968, all cars came standard with a LH (drivers) Side-View Mirror. Remote Control Side View Mirror was optional.

3909197 1967 F O/S Mirror (LH) exc. rem.
9787901 1968 F, 1967-1968 T, P O/S Mirror (LH) exc. rem. (round) 1st type
3914753 1968 F O/S Mirror (LH) exc. rem. (square) 2nd type
3899857 1967 F O/S Mirror (LH) remote ctrl.
9792565 1968 F O/S Mirror (LH) remote ctrl. (round)
3934583 1968 F O/S Mirror (LH) remote ctrl. (square)

*The rectangular (square) 2nd Type Std. Mirror came into Production after Jan.1968 (This may have been Gov’t Reg. related)
*There were (2) Different LH Door Outer Panels as a result of this styling change due to stamping differences. Mounting Bracket is also different.
*There was an Accessory Pkg. for LH Remote Ctrl. Mirror in ’67/’68… 984758 (ALL) 984752 (Pont.) 984974 (Temp.)
*I’m sure many Dealers sold a matching RH (pass.) Mirror however, there was no separate part number for this; they simply used a LH Mirror (exc. remote)

…Repro’s are available. Std. Mirror is same for all F,T,P. Remote Mirror is NOT the same as Tempest or Full-Size as many used parts dealers try to say.

…Actually, they used a ROUND and RECTANGULAR Style (*see above*) The 1967 Std. (or Rem.) mirror was not used for 1968 Firebird production. I’ve seen some very early ’68’s and they have 1968 style mirrors.

…Based on your Build Date. I’d say if it’s after Jan. 1968, go with the rectangular style This is where a Survey of owner’s would help confirm this ‘running’ change’

…I’m hearing that a repro is underway for other year/application remote mirrors besides the ‘Chevy’ style that is out there. There are NOS one’s floating around; expect to pay Hemmings Prices ($200-$350). Remember, the Mirror Housing itself is the same for 1968 Firebird, Tempest, Full-Size; however, the pedestal (base) is not.

A: …From preliminary research within the Registry Files, I’ve found that the 2nd Type (Rectangular) S.V. Mirror was being installed as early as the 2nd Week in Dec. ’67. Infact, two particular Firebirds in the Registry are very close in Build Sequence; both built the 2nd week in Dec. and one having the Round Mirror, the other with the Rectangular Mirror. Both are documented, original unrestored cars.

A: The 1967 and 1968 Firebird Remote Mirrors are different. The ‘left-over’ rule did not apply. I’ve never seen a documented 1968 Firebird with a 1967 Mirror. 1967 had a larger, longer Base while 1968 was rather stubby. The 1968 Firebird Mirror is not the same as the 1968 Camaro. Also, keep in mind that all other Pontiac Remote Mirrors in 1968 appear to be the same but upon closer inspection, the base is definitely different (different casting numbers too). The Round Mirror Housing itself is the same. Cable Length varied depending on Model.

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Q: Mirror from other Series for 1968

I have a remote mirror from a 1968 Bonnie. Will it fit and look original on my 1968 Firebird?

A: The Base for a Firebird Mirror is unique. Slightly different than full size and the Tempest style. Physically, I believe it would work though, I’ve never tried it.

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Q: Mirror Placement for 1968

I need to install a driver’s side mirror. Does anyone have a template for this procedure?

A: Try the following templates. They are going to be very large files but will work as a good template. Make sure to use the correct template:

1968 Early Production Mirror: Round Mirror – Remote and Standard:

1968 Late Production Mirror: Rectangular Mirror – Remote and Standard:

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Q: Mirror Types for 1968

I realized today that the doors off the coupe, now on the convertible, use “bullet” mirrors (bullet shaped casing with rectangular mirror inside). Was this offered in 1968?

A: There were no ‘Bullet Mirrors’ used on any 1968 Pontiac. You had a choice of Manual or Remote Adjustable Chrome Plated Mirrors. Early ’68’s used Round Style Mirrors. Sometime in December, the factory started using a Rectangular Shaped Chrome Mirror (for Manual and Remote). As for their being no Control Knob for the Mirror in Todd’s car, that’s the first clue that these are not factory mirrors. It was not uncommon for people to swap mirrors; add something with a little more style; more modern. The only 1st Gen. Firebird that used ‘Bullet Style’ Mirrors was the 1969 Firebird and those were only very late in production models (since the 1969 body style ran longer than normal, some of the ’70 style features began to show up in production.)

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Q: Outside Mirrors for 1968

Anybody know what was used for a side view mirror on the passenger side of a 1968 Firebird with a remote control mirror on the driver side? My mirror is rectangular with rounded corners and I have seen non-remote versions in parts catalogs.

A: According to the Firebird Red Book by Peter Sessler, the remote mirror was only offered as an option (LH remote control OSRV mirror – 424) on the left hand side. I would assume the passenger side had a matching rectangular shape if it was equiped with the optional passenger mirror. The 1968 had both the circular and rectangular offered. My 1968 has the LH circular mirror with no passenger mirror.

A: Unfortunately, Pontiac did not offer a RH S.V. Mirror ‘dummy’ to match the LH Remote version (round or rectangular) as they did in previous years. I have a ’64 GTO that has the Factory LH S.V. Remote Mirror (round) and I found a ‘matching’ RH mirror several years ago in a junk-yard. Basically, the same mirror, but w/o the cable, etc…. looks balanced.

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Q: Remote Mirrors Removing Cable

Does anyone know the best way to remove the cable from the remote controlled mirror? I’m having mine replated and can’t figure out how to disconect the darn thing without destroying it.

A: Based on my past experience with second gen mirrors, the easiest way is to take the mirror apart and pull the remote end through the mirror base and housing. Hope this helps.

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Q: Round or Rectangular O/S Remote Mirror for 1968

My cars Billing History date is 12-14-67. Should my car have the round outside mirror, or rect? Right now it has the rect, but I’m sure it is a repro,installed when the car got painted in 1980.

A: Idon’t believe the rectangular O/S Remote Mirror came into production until sometime in March of 1968. The Outer Door Skin is actually different for the (2) types of mirrors (due to mounting hole configuration). This would be a clue as to which mirror was originally installed.

A: From preliminary research within the Registry Files, I’ve found that the 2nd Type (Rectangular) S.V. Mirror was being installed as early as the 2nd Week in Dec. ’67. Infact, two particular Firebirds in the Registry are very close in Build Sequence; both built the 2nd week in Dec. and one having the Round Mirror, the other with the Rectangular Mirror. Both are documented, original unrestored cars.

A: The 1967 and 1968 Firebird Remote Mirrors are different. The ‘left-over’ rule did not apply. I’ve never seen a documented 1968 Firebird with a 1967 Mirror. 1967 had a larger, longer Base while 1968 was rather stubby. The 1968 Firebird Mirror is not the same as the 1968 Camaro. Also, keep in mind that all other Pontiac Remote Mirrors in 1968 appear to be the same but upon closer inspection, the base is definitely different (different casting numbers too). The Round Mirror Housing itself is the same. Cable Length varied depending on Model.

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Q: 400 Bumper Emblem on a 1968

Does anyone have a template for mounting a 400 bumper emblem on a 1968 Firebird?

A: I found a dimension template for the 1967 – 1968 400 bumper emblem that you might be able to use on the Generation-1 Registry web site.

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Q: 400 Exterior Badging

Did all 1st generation Firebirds that came with 400 engines have all the exterior “400” badging and 400 scoop hoods (except 1967 hoods)?

A: The “400” option on the 1967-1969 Firebirds included exterior badging (Decklid, Hood “400” emblems), Scooped (closed) Hood and of course, the 400 engine. This option also included chrome moldings in the middle of the Grills for the 1967-1968 and a Pontiac Crest emblem on the Front Bumper for all 3 years.

A: You forgot the 1969’s also had chrome molding in the grilles. It rimmed the “grille” (the actual opening). This did not include the 1969 Trans Ams with the blacked out grilles. Also, the 400’s for all 3 years had chrome air cleaner lids and valve covers, and dual exhausts. Floor shift was part of the standard 3 speed trans deal, unless automatic was specified but not the console.

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Q: 400 Exterior Badging

Did all 1st generation Firebirds that came with 400 engines have all the exterior “400” badging and 400 scoop hoods (except 1967 hoods)?

A: The “400” option on the 1967-1969 Firebirds included exterior badging (Decklid, Hood “400” emblems), Scooped (closed) Hood and of course, the 400 engine. This option also included chrome moldings in the middle of the Grills for the 1967-1968 and a Pontiac Crest emblem on the Front Bumper for all 3 years.

A: You forgot the 1969’s also had chrome molding in the grilles. It rimmed the “grille” (the actual opening). This did not include the 1969 Trans Ams with the blacked out grilles. Also, the 400’s for all 3 years had chrome air cleaner lids and valve covers, and dual exhausts. Floor shift was part of the standard 3 speed trans deal, unless automatic was specified but not the console.

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Q: 400 Front Bumper Emblem for 1967-1968

The nose emblem that was on my ‘original’ bumper was a cast piece of metal that was lightly polished and had a rubber surround gasket that was removable. I ordered emblems from both Year One and The Paddock, and one was made of rubber, the other was cast plastic. I sent them both back because I can’t believe that GM would put junk like that on their premium 400 cars.

A: The correct, original Emblem for the 1967-1968 Firebird 400 Frt. Bumper is infact a molded hard-rubber part. There is a steel reinforcement insert inside of it which the mounting studs attach to but there is no metal visible. The metal ‘Crest’ Emblem you refer to was only used on certain Full-Size Pontiacs & Grand Prixs. The correct Emblem you need is only available as repro. Quality is supposedly ok. Early repro parts exhibited very poor shape & fit.

A: I just installed the repro I bought from Ames and it’s not bad. The outward apearance is very good. The only part I didn’t like is that the original has some extruded rubber surrounding the studs that make it fit just right in the holes on the bumper where as the repro does not so you have to center it by eye and then tighten it down. No biggie but I don’t think it would have cost them that much more to add to the mold.

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Q: 400 Trunk Emblem on a 1968

Does anyone have a template for mounting a 400 trunk emblem to a 1968 firebird? I think it is right above the reverse light on the passenger side, but I would like to have factory dimensions. Any help would be appreciated.

A: I found a dimension template that you might be able to use on the Generation-1 Registry web site.

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Q: Custom Emblem

Today I found the grille emblem for my bird in the trunk, instead of “Firebird” it says “Custom”. I suppose this was part of the pink mist package, has anybody seen this before?

A: This emblem could have come off several locations which might be determined by the type of fastener used for the “Custom” emblem. Possible locations include the hood emblems (used 8-9420185 Nuts for “Overhead Cam”), the front fender emblems (used 6-9420621 Nuts for “Firebird”), front grill emblems (used 2-9789188 Brackets and 2-9785896 Retainers for “Pontiac”) (least likely), the trunk emblems (used 2-9421827 Nuts for “400”), or rocker panel emblems (used 4-9420621 Nuts for “Sprint”)(most likely). I have not seen this before but it could have been a part of the special paint package (Pink Mist) your car came with that year. This would be identified on your body tag with the paint code ‘special.’

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Q: Emblem restoration

I was wondering if anyone had any tips on how to do emblem restoration? Is this something I can do myself? I have all of the emblems except for the passenger side “Firebird” front emblem, and the “400” trunk emblem. All of the emblems are in decent shape — except all of the black/red paint isn’t there anymore. There is a bit of silver flaking on a couple of them, but nothing I really want to worry about right now.

Is this something I can do myself with a paintbrush? Are there specific colors I should get?

A: Unless your doing a Concourse restoration, close is good enough. Because of the size and distance, most people couldn’t tell if its not the perfect shade. I’ve panted emblems a couple of ways:

1- Clean well with lacquer thinner and an old tooth brush.

2- Choose your paint. I’ve used engine enamel and applied it with a fine paint brush. I’ve also applied it with an old WD-40 straw (I couldn’t find my brush). Make sure you put enough on the emblems to “flow” up to the edges.

2b- I’ve also used fingernail polish. It sounds strange but it comes with a brush, it’s enamel paint, and the colors are great. It’s a little thin so it may take two coats.

Good Luck.

A: I have done on a number of cars over the years. It works and last a long time.

1. Remove all the old paint.

2. Wash with paint thinner, then mild detergent

3. Dry

4. Take a pan tin, turn it upside down and punch holes to fit the emblems prongs

5. Place emblems, letters etc in tim and paint. if it requires more than one color do only one at a time.

6. Prewarm an oven to 250 degrees

7. Place tin with emblems in the oven for about 15 minutes.

8. Remove and let cool.

9. After all color painting is complete brush on a clear coat and bake it for 10 minutes.

The heat bakes and smooths the paint. I just saw a vette I restored in ’91 and the emblems looked like new. (no he had not replaced them)

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Q: Firebird side moldings on 1968

We recently purchased a 1968 Firebird 400 car. The car isn’t the original color otherwise it is all original right down to the wire wheel hubcaps. It has air conditioning and deluxe interior. It also has a body side molding that looks like it belongs on the car but we haven’t seen it on any other Firebirds. The trim runs from the back of the front wheel opening to the front of the back wheel opening. It’s chrome with pointed tips and a rounded black vinyl in the center. Do you know if this is an original option or has someone added it?

A: Regarding the Vinyl bodyside moldings, there is no listing I can find that shows this as a factory/dealer option though, I wouldn’t doubt it if a dealer did install these (or an aftermarket brand). Similar to various shapes and sizes of Sideview mirrors and seatbelts.. back in the 60’s, just about anything was possible.

A: According to the original Pontiac Sales Manual, this (Body Side Molding Vinyl Inserts) was a standard body feature on the Catalina, Executive, and Bonneville. Nothing mentioned for the Firebird in that section, optional equipment, or prices. All I could find available are an optional vinyl rally stripes which these do not sound like. My 1968 had the body side molding vinyl inserts on also before I restored it. Note that some ‘special’ equipment was installed at the dealership and I have found many old Firebird articles and ads had the side moldings on them in the pictures.

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Q: Front Bumper Emblem for 1967-1968

The nose emblem that was on my ‘original’ bumper was a cast piece of metal that was lightly polished and had a rubber surround gasket that was removable. I ordered emblems from both Year One and The Paddock, and one was made of rubber, the other was cast plastic. I sent them both back because I can’t believe that GM would put junk like that on their premium 400 cars.

A: The correct, original Emblem for the 1967-1968 Firebird 400 Frt. Bumper is infact a molded hard-rubber part. There is a steel reinforcement insert inside of it which the mounting studs attach to but there is no metal visible. The metal ‘Crest’ Emblem you refer to was only used on certain Full-Size Pontiacs & Grand Prixs. The correct Emblem you need is only available as repro. Quality is supposedly ok. Early repro parts exhibited very poor shape & fit.

A: Ijust installed the repro I bought from Ames and it’s not bad. The outward apearance is very good. The only part I didn’t like is that the original has some extruded rubber surrounding the studs that make it fit just right in the holes on the bumper where as the repro does not so you have to center it by eye and then tighten it down. No biggie but I don’t think it would have cost them that much more to add to the mold.

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Q: Gas Tank Door Emblem

What is the correct style for my 1968? I heard there were to versions: Finger pull or flat

A: All 1968 Firebirds had the ‘finger-lift’ feature built into the Emblem meaning, the Emblem is not flat but has an opening under the tail for your finger. This emblem is available as a reproduction. The flat-design Fuel Door ‘Bird’ Emblem was used in 1967 though, some late 1967’s began using the finger-lift version. This emblem is also available.

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Q: H.O. Stripe (Rally Stripe) Fading

I’m considering painting the H.O. stripes on my 1968 coupe, instead of using the decals.

A: if you are afraid of the stripes faiding,try this tick I learned when I worked in a body shop.apply the decals before you clearcoat and then proceed with the paint job as normal,they will not fade.

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Q: H.O. Stripes Availability

I have a 1968 FB 400 Convertiable Verdero Green with Ivy Gold Interior; and supposed to have gold top (now black; couldn’t locate gold); the car is a 400 HO with automatic trans and air conditioning. The question that I have is whether or not my car is supposed to have HO stripes or whether they were an option. The packet from PHS does not list optional stripes so unless all HO cars had them I dont believe that mine should–any help would be appreciated.

A: The only H.O.s that got the H.O. stripes were the 1967 326 H.O. and the 1968 350 H.O. The 400 H.O.s could have been ordered with the Rally stripes but it wouldnt have had the letters “H.O.” on the front fenders as the smaller V-8 H.O.s had. If you got the Billing History from PHS and its blank in the 494 column then your car wasnt ordered with Rally Stripes.

Another note is that the 326/350 H.O.s and Tempest/LeMans Sprints could have the stripes that were standard equipment deleted (not used). This would show up as column 491 of the Billing History. It was a no credit option delete.

These stripes were color coordinated to complement interior/exterior combinations. A good example is a black car with black interior. It wouldnt get a black stripe but instead got an ivory stripe. If a black car had red interior it would get a red stripe. Etc. The three colors avaliable thru out the years were red,ivory and black.

You can be creative and put H.O. on a 400 car, I have a friend who thought the same as you and did this on a 400 convertible. He later upgraded the powertrain to a R/A and had the words RamAir made into the same strpes. Keep in mind that none of this is correct but 99.9% of the admirers thought that it was. I have another idea thats a variation of that… My sons 1968 Firebird coupe is red/ black vinyl top and interior. I am making a set of rally stripes in black that will use the word “Sprint” from the 68-9 Tempest /LeMans Sprint. So other than the attentive list members I doubt that anyone will pick up on this. Have your fun and make the car the way you want. A set of stripes is easily removed and if the proper material is used wont harm a decent paint job.

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Q: HO stripes for 1968

What Firebirds could get the HO stripes.

A: Here’s what I know about the Rally Stripe….

1) The 1968 Firebird Sales Brochure shows a white 1968 Firebird 350 with Red “H.O.” Rally Stripes.

2) The 1968 Firebird Dealer Order Form lists option 494 (Rally Stripe) as available on all except with option 344 (350 H.O.) since 344 came std. with the stripes.

3) The 400 H.O. did not come standard with the Rally Stripes but one could order them according to Sales literature.

4) The 1968 Parts Catalog lists part numbers for Black, Red & White “H.O.” Stripes as well as the plain stripes (front fender).

5) The “Generation-1” Firebird Registry has several members with original, documented “Rally Stripes” including 350, 400, H.O. and even a Ram Air I car.

6) The Body Broadcast Sheet lists the (3) different color codes for the Rally Stripe.

A: the stripe for the 350 HO was an HO stripe. You are correct in the colors, red ,white and black. All colors were closely coordinated with paint and interior color combos. i.e. white car and parchment(white) interior wouldnt get an ivory stripe. As I stated before only the 350 HO was avaliable (and standard equiptment) with HO stripes. Any other engine combo got the Ralley stripe for a mere $14.74 extra. You could do a delete on the HO stripes (350 HO CARS) but it was a no cost no refund item. The orginals were vinyl and held up very well, still have the orginals on my 1967 Sprint.One of the best ways to see if your car was equipted with the HO 326 and had the stripes is spend $35 for PHS to verify….. Unless you can find the build sheet.

A: the ralley stripe option. This was avaliable in 67-8 on any engine combo except the HOs. The ralley stripe is sometimes called “SPRINT” stripes by mistake…does anyone on list have an orginal 400 ( or anything except an HO) with the ralley stripes? Many people dont realize that it could be got that way.

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Q: How to remove Chevrons (3 vertical chrome trim pieces) on a 1968

Regarding the 3 vertical chrome trim pieces below the rear windows, I’m assuming I have to remove the inside panels to get to their fasteners. Is their anything I should know in advance regarding them? Do I need to remove the seats? I’m gonna reuse them as they are in real good condition. Are they clipped, bolted, or what? Can I reuse the fasteners?

A: For a coupe, you dont need to remove anything except the flow thru vents at the 1/4 panel to get to the chevrons. Use a 1/4 drive socket/ratchet and carefully back off the nuts as so you dont break the studs off. Check and see what style your chevrons are. They had 2 types early and late 1968 one style has smaller studs than the other. Just curious as to when they changed.

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Q: Ralley Stripes vs. H.O. Stripes

What is the difference between the Ralley Stripes and the H.O. stripes?

A: The H.O. stripes are very similar but not the same as the ralley stripes. The ralley stripes were avaliable on all 67-8s EXCEPT 326 and 350 H.O.s. These stripes used the same door and rear 1/4 stripes, but the fender stripe was continuous in the center portion instead of having the letters H.O.

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Q: Rally Stripes and “Sprint Stripes”

Was there a specific stripe for Sprint Firebirds or did they receive the optional Rally Stripe?

A: Actually the 1967-19688 Firebird stripes were called “Rally Stripes” and were avaliable on any model except the 326/350 H.O. cars(which got the H.O. stripes as standard equiptment).The misnomer of Sprint birds having “Sprint stripes” was spawned in part to the picture in “The Fabulous Firebird” book by Michael Lamm. The other was the Tempest/LeMans Sprints had them as standard equiptment. This then carried on to the suppliers /retailers calling them Sprint Firebird stripes.

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Q: Rocker Panels for 1968

I’m trying to figure out how my new rocker panel moulding strip goes on my 1969 firebird. The last time I had molding on it was 12 years ago and I can’t remember . What I have is two Nos mouldings right out of the GM packaging each moulding came with a small bag of screws and one of the packages had two 1 inch by about 24inch metal strips each with three holes in it and both stamped with the letter R. I see that these strips hold the moulding on ,on the top . My Question is,where am I suppose to connect the metal strips one on each side, ? Or both on the right side because they are marked with an R and if this is correct it means I’m missing the two strips for the left side.

A: You should have two “one inch strips” per side. One spans the front of the rocker panel and onto the back of the fender. The other mounts directly behind the first on the rocker panel (lip side up). The molding has places for one screw in each end. The one in the back simply screws through the molding and into the rocker panel. The front screws into a plastic insert in the back of the fender. Then all that is remaining is the screw along the bottom of the molding, into the rocker panel.

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Q: Stripe Material

Inyour expert opinion what is the best way to replace the H.O. stripes?? Obviously they are available in all catalogs as decals as original. Do the decals hold up? I have also heard people say to apply the decal prior to the clearcoat on a new paint job to also preserve the stripe, I have also heard of painting them on.

A: I dont know what the others are using for material… Ive seen some piss poor copies of HO stripes but wont get into that here. I do know that the factory used 3M Scotchcal vinyl. 3M is in my opinion still the best thing going 35 years later. I still have the orginal Sprint stripes on my 1967 Tempest Sprint, and it hasn’t had the best of care (My wife once scrubbed the car with soft scrubb) They are weathered and scratched but it is testament to the abuse that good vinyl will take.

3M now has a high performance vinyl with a UV coating built into it. I wouldnt advise clear coating over the stripe as the vinyl will expand and contract at a different rate than the metal and paint. This would then promote cracking under the clear and would make a real big mess when trying to repair/replace any portion of the stripes.

As for the idea to extend the life of well kept vinyl, how much longer would you expect? BTW these arent decals they are vinyl appliques (just a fancy word for stripes). As for the painting of the stripes in lieu of vinyl, thats your choice. I will tell you that the 3M vinyl is only 2 mils thick and paint at that thickness is almost transparent. You also wont get the crisp detail and edges with a paint on job vs a die cut vinyl stripe.

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Q: 2-Bulb Corner Lamps

Was there a certain number of turn signal assemblies that had two bulbs in it versus single bulb?

A: Early model 68s had the 2-bulb markers,which were phased out in the first couple months of production. Any models had this not just one or another. As near as I can tell its sometime in Sept. that it changed to a single bulb.

I think that alot had to do with the new government requirement to have side impact markers in 68. The Firebird didnt have a separate marker like the Camaro did ( much cleaner look than the ugly step sister) so they put a separator and bulb in the turn signal housing. Later it was modified to illuminate from the side and front with one bulb thereby saving money. Doesnt sound like much of a savings but one dollar each car and it justifies that cost engineers position.

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Q: 400 Bumper Emblem on a 1968

Does anyone have a template for mounting a 400 bumper emblem on a 1968 Firebird?

A: I found a dimension template for the 1967 – 1968 400 bumper emblem that you might be able to use on the Generation-1 Registry web site.

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Q: 400 Grill Molding for 1967-1968

Can someone explain the two different types of grilles on the 1967 bird? One type has a chrome strip running down the center that extends out toward the nose and on the other, the chrome piece ends at the louvre part of the grill.

The ones on my bird are the latter, but the previous owner gave me an extra set that is like the former.

It looks as if I can remove the chrome strip and attach it to grilles on the bird since thay are just bolted on.

A: In regards to the 1967-1968 Firebird Grill Chrome….

The “400” Firebirds had seperate chrome moldings in the grills (covering the center bar, extending towards the nose) and the non-“400” cars did not; you would just see the molded in plastic center bar. It sounds like some are implying that non-“400” cars had the ‘flat’ chromemolding when infact, this ‘molding’ is actually a part of the plastic grill and not chrome at all. The grills themselves were identical; you can take std. grills and drill them for the moldings (which are unique for RH and LH).

A: The extended mouldings, along with the arrowhead emblem on the front chrome “beak,” 400 emblem on the right rear trunk lid, and scooped hood were 400 items exclusively. They are not correct on non-400 cars.

A: The 400s came with the twin scoop hood, Pontiac arrow head on the nose of the bumper, and chrome ring around the inside of each grill (look at grill and notice the mounting holes). All models (350, 350 HO, 400, etc.) used the same grill but the chrome ring was added to the 400.

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Q: Bumper Filler Gasket for 1968

Two questions: Is the rubber gasket around the front of the 1969 that seperates the headlights housing and grill from the fenders and hood suposed to be black or is it O.K. to have it body colored. Will paint stick to it or flake off soon.

A: The rubber should be black and yes paint will flake off.

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Q: Chrome Inserts (Hockey Sticks) for a 400

Does anyone know who sells these chrome overlay pieces that go in the middle of the gille and continue all the out to the nose of the bumper?? Do any of YOU have some for sale?? HELP!

A: Chicago Muscle Parts in Island Lake, Il. show these in their catalog. part #893774, $79.00/pr. These are a reproduction item. I called and the price is still good, but the parts are now out of stock, having sold the last pair to me. The sales guy didn’t know when they would get more in stock, but said that if we could get together an order of 10 or more, they could get them in in less than 3 weeks.

Chicago Muscle Car Parts
(847)526-2200
912 E. Burnett Road
Island Lake, IL 60042

The partnumber for the 400 grill trim is #893774. I called then today and found that they once again, have only one pair in stock

These are the hockey stick trim pieces that fit horizontally in the400 grill.

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Q: Correct Grill Color for 1969’s

Does anyone know the correct grill colour for 69’s. I read the FAQ on Geoff’s site and it covered 1967-1968 but not 1969. Are they all silver or do they have a black center?

Do you paint the grill black (in addition to the silver) or does the whole insert stay silver. I have seen some 69’s with the centre all silver and others with the centre painted back?

If it is does have a black center is it matt or semi gloss?

A: It’s all silver (Argent Silver).It should be the same shade as the 1967-1968.

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Q: Front Bumper Gap

I just bought a 1968 coupe here in Oklahoma and the front bumper has a gap of 1/2 to 3/4″ between the rear of the bumper and the front bodywork (fenders and hood). Is there supposed to be a filler strip between the bumper and bodywork, or is the bumper too far forward?

A: There should be a rubber filler behide the bumper.

A: My 1968 has a black rubber filler and is the same distance. I also found this in the Dealer Technical Bulletins that sounds like it applies in this case:

I did not find any reference to the rubber filler in the 1968 Service Manual and Fisher Body Service Manual.

A: First, there is a black filler strip that goes around each edge of the chrome bumper. It attaches to the plastic grill assembly. Look at section 14 of the 1967 Firebird Service manual, it tells exactly how the bumper is to be attached.

Second, be aware of the possibilty that your front bumper is twisted. This is VERY common for the 1967-1968 bumpers. They are long and easily twisted without noticeable dents or other clues. Fortunately they can be muscled into place if the twist isn’t too bad, but from personal experience I know that even putting a true, straight one on correctly is a process requiring patience.

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Q: Front bumper/wiper valence sheet metal removal

I need the list expertise. I need to remove the valence or sheet metal between the windshield and the hood, any ideas?. Also the whole bumper and grill arrangement.

A: To remove the cowl panel (the sheet metal between the hood and the windshield), first remove the wiper arms then the four screws in the front of the panel under the hood.

As far as the bumper, you should be able to remove it in one piece. Look behind the bumper and in front of the radiator. To the left and right, you should see the bumper horns that are attached to the front of the frame. If you remove the bolts behind the bumper the whole assembly should come off in one piece.

A: I haven’t done the control arms yet, but the valance isn’t that bad. The hardest part is to remove the wiper arms. It’s best to use a special tool for this (I know JC Whitney sells it for about $10). Otherwise, you can use a screw driver to move the locking clip underneath. As the name implies though, the screw driver will probably screw up your paint job (that’s up to you whether it’s worth it or not). The locking clip is on the bottom of the wiper and presses against a knotch on the shaft. Once you have the wipers off, there are several screws along the front edge where the hood overlaps. On mine, once those screws were out, I could lift up on the front edge and slide the whole thing forward and out from under the chome window trim. This way, I didn’t have to remove the trim.

A: Whenever I find myself in a situation where the paint job might get scratched, I put some masking tape followed by a layer of duct tape down on the area that could be damaged. The masking tape protects the finish from the duct tape glue while the duct tape absorbs the scratch. After removal, some denatured alcohol should eliminate any residue.

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Q: Front Clip Removeal

Can anyone give me a qick summary or secrets (hidden bolts) to removing entire front clip from my ’67. I have removed the bumper and radiator thus far. I would like to keep front end in as few pieces as possible for ease of re- assembly.

A: I would advise against one piece front clip removal mainly for alignment reasons… and the potential for bending, scratching, or otherwise strangely stressing your fenders and core support (not to mention it is really akward). However, I believe it would be possible to do (you know how you always see’em in swapmeets and junkyards and all… but those parts are not always in the best of shape either.

All that holds the ‘front clip’ on is the two bolts from the core support to the front of the subframe, one bolt on each side under the fender (down underneath going upward), and the two bolts on each side by the hood hinges to the cowl section (one on top going down and one pointed back into the ‘firewall’). There will be shims around all of these bolts that were used for alignment. Remember where they go. With LOTS of practice you can learn to fix bad alignments as few GM cars are put together perfect. But, once it is done right it makes all the difference!

Although I don’t know why you want to do this removal, if your clip has not been apart before it might not be a bad idea to take it appart piece by piece so that you can clean, remove and treat rust that is hidden and protect (paint) things that are not usually accessable.

A: Sorry about the last note. When you sais “bumper” and “radiator”, the “front clip” part didn’t register.

As far as the front clip, he had some good points. The main thing to need to remember if you want to remove the front clip is to properly document what bolt and shims go where. Buy a box of re-sealable bags and as you remove them, mar them like “passenger side – top of fender at back of hood”. put the bolt and shims in the bag and place it where you can find it later. Do this with each bolt you remove. When the car goes back together, all the proper alignment pieces will be there.

As far as hidden bolts, inside the fender wells you’ll find three that attach it to a bracket on the inside. I usually try to remove this bracket entirely to get it out of the way. Once you’ve done this and the other obvious bolts, remove the front tires to get them out of the way, too.

Get a buddy and CAREFULLY start to remove the clip. Try not to twist it because the only thing holding it together will be the radiator support.

When you go to reassemble the car, start with the doors and get them even and straight. then align the fenders to the doors. I hope this helps.

A: I just removed mine from my 69. I don’t know hoe different it is but from what I’ve seen it very similar.

• Remove the air dam

• Remove the A/C baffles (If applicible)

• Un-plug the headlights

• Remove the bolts that attach the support bracket to the front of the fenders.

• Look between the radiator support and the bumper support. The bumper support bolts to the frame horns (the pieces that curve up from the frame) in three locations and possible to a couple of places on the valance panel. Remove these bolts and the bumper assembly will come off.

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Q: Grill Color for 1967 or 1968

I am getting two different answers from restoration veterans about the correct grill insert color on a 1968 with a 400 (RamAir or otherwise). Several guys have told me that the silver/gray was the only color available and that the extra chrome strip was the only difference. To back this up I have found an article in Januarys High Performance Pontiac Magazine about a purple 1967 RamAir 1 restoration. The magazine called the car “one of the most correctly restored 1967 Ram Air Firebirds”. It has silver grills. Still other people have told me that the 400 option included grills painted an almost black charcoal gray with the extra chrome on top. Evidence of this can be seen on the cover of the spring ’98 Year One Catalog (also a ’67). I need to paint my grills soon, so I can get the car back together before spring.

A: The 1967-8 Firebird grilles were identical, except for how they were painted. The correct grille colors for the 1967-8 Firebirds are as follows:

1967 – Argent Silver outer, with a Black center.

1968 – Charcoal outer, with Argent Silver center.

The Charcoal and Argent Silver are the same colors that are used on Rally II wheels and they should be a satin finish, not gloss.

For both years, only the Firebird 400 came with a chrome (hockey stick) bar in the center of the grilles.

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Q: Headlight Pull Switch Removal

Help! I would like some info about how to safely remove the headlight pull switch to replace the bezel on a 1969 bird. Thanx.

A: There is a small button on the side of the switch that releases the knob and arm.

A: There is a button on the side of the switch that faces the door. It is next to impossible to reach from underneath the dash without removing at LEAST the ball vent tube. I took a piece of welding rod and kept bending by trial-an-error until I could slide it through the gap between the dash panel and the windshield pillar (on top) and was able to press the button from the top. Take a flash light and shine through the gap and peek through the bottom of the windshield. You may be able to see it.

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Q: Parking Lamp Housing for 1968

I am confused about the one-bulb or two-bulb parking lamp housing.

A: Awhile back, there was much speculation about which 1968 Firebirds got the two-bulb parking lamp housings vs the one-bulb. I found the answer while reading the tech bulletins at firstgen. It was a mid-year change as well as a service swap-out.

[pdfjs-viewer url=/dtb/docs/68-I-17.pdf viewer_height=800px fullscreen=true download=false print=true]

A: Actually, it wasnt a midyear change…. more like a false start in production. Ive had several late Sept cars that had the single bulb and some early Sept cars that had the 2 bulb. This leads me to believe that it was used only for a few weeks in early production and when they ran out they were replaced with the “cheaper” version.

Here’s how this all happened. Model year of 1968 was mandated several safety changes/additions, one of which was front and rear side markers. PMD was unsure whether the front turn signal- parking lamp would be accepted as a side marker. When it was apparent that the side marker was legal without a separate bulb the first design was phased out. It was then that a replacement part superceded the earlier one.

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Q: Rechroming Bumper

I am looking for some info about getting my front bumper on a 1967 firebird 400 convertible. re-chromed. Can anyone give me names of some places that do this and are good?

A: Try TriCIties plating in Tenn. They do good work at a reasonable price. Sandblast the inside of yours and knock off the rough edges and sharp edges at the rear portion and you will get a nice job.

A: make sure that you tell them to buff the sharp edges where the dies cut metal off on the backside or trailing edge. It gives the bumper a nicer finish.The only part I wasnt thrilled with was the rear at the tabs with holes(that serve no purpose once installed) the plating didnt get all the way under neath the tabs. Franks says it wont as by design the plating comes from underneath in the tank. I noticed the originals didnt have any there also. Just clean off the surface rust and repaint with silver POR 15.

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Q: Body Seam Repairs

At times I’ve seen small cracks in at the top of the windshield post at the roof line. Do you or anyone else know how to fix these permanently? I had a Bondo artist tell me to “just fill it with AllMetal and move on” but I’m quite leery about this. Do I have to solder them back?

A: I have repaired small cracks or defects in body solder with 30/70 solder and a small low watt soldering iron. clean the area real well before soldering and use tinning butter to prep. You must melt the area around the defect to blend the new solder in. this takes some practice so you may want to try this on a junker first. Clean the area off with a baking soda solution to neutralize the acids and then follow with plain water a couple of times. This is a better approach than bondo or filler. Remember to wear a dust mask when grinding or sanding lead.

A: I worked on new cars (back in the 70’s), not ones that were 30 years old. But I do know this. The weld between the windshield pillar and the roof is about an inch or so below the roof line. The solder however extends all the way to the roof line, about 1 1/2″ inches down the along the drip rail, and about 1″ along the roof windshield face toward the center of the car. The solder that extends past the welds becomes very thin after grinding. Given that it’s a soft metal I think it’s just cracking due to stress. The welds themselves and the metal reinforcement around the weld point is very strong (strong enough to not come apart during a roll over). I think you’ll see metal fatigue cracks above the pillar where the sheet metal is thin before you’ll ever see it on the pillar.

The solder does not add any structural integrity to the body, it’s purely a cosmetic convenience (bondo takes too long to dry and the car is “dipped” about an hour after the body completes the welding process). I think it’s cracking at a “thin” point and just resolder it.

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Q: Emission/Tune up Label and Spare Tire Inflator Label

What are some labels I need to make my restoration complete?

A: Part of a proper restoration or just for a daily driver is to replace all decals and labels. Starting in 1968 there was an emission /tune up label on all Firebirds. This was on the front bumper upper structure. I havent seen any proper reproductions of this tune up decal for 68s as it was a clear decal with white lettering as to be placed over the black painted area of the bumper assembly. I do have some NOS ones that I will one day use as a pattern for the proper reproduction. The 1969 are different than the 68s but the content is the same.

Another label thats out there is the spare tire inflator canister label. This too is incorrect but is a close copy. Rich has so graciously loaned his original canister to me to make a proper copy. After countless hours of having my computer crash while in the design stages, its finally done. I guess I could have just stuck one of these Osborne labels on and no one would have noticed. But its the striving for perfection that drives most of us to do the silly little details. Perhaps I can seek professional help on this like they do in Hollywood.

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Q: 400 Hood Scoops

I just picked up a 1967 400 hood for $500 — straight, no rust, but has chromed scoop inserts. Question for list: are these an aftermarket item?

A: No. Someone took the scoop inserts and had them chromed. I’ve seen quite a few cars with them painted black as well. This might have been something a dealer may have also done. But they were all originally painted the body color.

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Q: 400 Hoods

Can I put a 1967 400 hoods on a 1968? What type of problems or modifications will I need to make?

A: For all you trivia buffs the difference in 1967 and 68-9 hoods is not the hinges, its in the inner frame and the hood latch. And yes, its important even to a non purist when he replaces his 350 hood and it wont latch, OR if it does latch and then comes open at 60MPH. The 1967 400 hoods had a inner structure that was unique to that model and year only. The 68-9 400 used the same inner structure as all 68-9 flat hoods. I havent tried to put a 1967 400 hood on an OHC-6 but I bet it wont fit. So question again ,whens someone going to repo these in USA?

A: I always look forward to your comments. They agree with my own experiences and usually add to what I know. I just went through installing a nice 1967 400 steel hood on my 1969 bird. The following is what I learned in the process.

*The 1967 400 hoods are unique. They have a different “flatter” hood catch hole (didn’t realize the rest of the substructure was also different and now I know to watch for rust through the scoop holes). The 1967 hood latch is also unique. It does not have the extra safety mechanism (ear on the passenger side) that shoves the safety part of the latch (upper catch) over if the primary catch releases. The secondary safety catch in 1967 relies solely on its spring to shove it into the path of the upcoming hood.

*In 1968 Pontiac changed the catch in the understructure of the hood, it sticks down slightly farther on the drivers side. If you look closely you can figure out that this is required to work with the redesigned (more positive) latch. The new latch has an extra ear sticking out on the passenger side to force the safety catch into place if the primary catch releases. One other thing, the 1968 latch has the same “lever” pull as the 1967. So in summary, in 1968 the catch (which is spot welded into the hood substructure) changed, the hood latch mechanism changed and the pull lever on the hood latch remained the same.

*In 1969 the hood remained the same as 1968, the hood latch also remained the same, and the hood latch pull was changed to a “rod”.

So every year has its differences but all hoods can work for all years and external appearances are the same. However, do not try to cut corners and mix the wrong latch with the wrong hood catch. I know a few horror stories from those who have tried this.

Oh and by the way it took me about 30 minutes with a drill, jig saw, and dremel to make a perfect “factory” hood tach hole. I’m sure the second one would be faster.

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Q: Hood Styles for Different Models

I was under the impression there where two hoods the stock hood & the 400 hood. Is this not true?

A: True. 1967, 1968 Firebird had (2) different Hoods. 1969 had (4) Hoods….

1967 Standard (flat) 9788846
1967 “400” (scooped) 9789418
1968-1969 Standard (flat) 9793429
1968-1969 “400” (scooped) 9793430
1969 “400” w/Ram Air 9797763
1969 Trans Am 5460140

*NOTE: Despite the ‘modification’ to the underside of most factory Ram Air Firebirds in 1967 and 1968, there was not a unique “Ram Air” Hood for these years. The modification was done at the Dealership.

The factory 1967-1968 “Ram Air” Firebirds used the standard “400” Hood and actually were shipped with closed Scoop Inserts installed and open Scoop Inserts in the trunk (for dealer to install along with Hood Baffle, Carb. Shroud and seals). So, a ‘functional Ram Air Hood’ for a 1967-1968 Firebird is no different than a regular “400” Hood (except the Scoops are open). Now, for the pursuist, there was a dealer modification required in order to install the Ram Air Hood Baffle. This involved trimming a portion of the under-structure of the Hood along the RH scoop.

The 1969 Firebird (exc. Trans Am) used a slightly different Hood when Ram Air was ordered. This was due to the new Ram Air design (functional, driver controlled scoops). There was a different Hood Baffle for 1969 which combined with a ‘Flap-System’ that allowed the driver to pull a cable-controlled knob under the dash that opened or closed the scoops. The Trans Am Hood though different than the “400” Hood, also used a similar cable-controlled scoop system.

A: I believe you may be mistaken there, that’s another one of those things about the 1969 TA that some sales literature states came with the car. The TA I owned didn’t have any provision at all for driver control of the intake scoops, nor have any others I’ve seen. We’ve most all seen that picture from the accessories brochure of the pull knob and the Ram Air decal on the mounting plate, but I have only seen that on GTO’s. I cannot answer for the 400 Sport Option cars, as I’ve only seen a couple in all the shows and POCI conventions I’ve attended, and don’t remember whether those cars were equipped.

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Q: OHC Hood Emblem Restoration

Hey guys, I searched the archives but could not find info about reworking the 3.8 Liter OHC hood emblems. Is it possible and who does it. Thanks

A: There are still lots of 3.8 liter hood emblems left out there NOS… I ve been looking for 4.1s but it seems I always found 3.8 ones. PS dont bother reworking them its just not feasible.

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Q: Ram Air Hood Pans

I was wondering if anyone has ordered and installed a reproduction Ram Air hood pan and air cleaner from either Ames or Year One for a 1968 Firebird? How was quality and fit? Thanks.

A: …The reporduction ’67/’68 Firebird Ram Air Hood Baffle was orginally from a Barry Martin (Sonic Motors) project about 8 years ago. At the time, he had hired a retired die-maker to reproduce the Baffle with a Kirksite Die. The Die Maker was surprised when Barry said it must have all original ‘Draw-Marks’ because with today’s technology, the ‘draw-marks’ do not occur as they did 30yrs ago. Anyhow, he duplicted all draw marks and stamped out less than a 100 pieces. I believe the original price was $450 and then was reduced later. I do remember going by to see the first batch of Baffles and comparing them to the original that was used as a template. The large hole was cut out using a Laser Cutter. This produced very clean edges. At the time, I couldn’t tell the difference between the two. One note though is that Kirksite material is softer than most production Tool Steel used for dies. It’s cheaper and will only last for 75 or so hits until the sharp definition starts to diminish. The last thing I remember about this project was seeing the Dies sitting on a flat bed trailer (uncovered) about a year later. Who knows how many total pieces were produced (I saw the first 50). Perhaps Year One or someone else popped out a few more. I do know from speaking with several Die makers, showing them the part, that the work required to produce this die would not have been that involved; as with everything, quantity dictates the total investment.

A: Barry Martin (Sonic Motors) did have Kirksite Dies made several years ago for the 1967-1968 Firebird Ram Air Hood Baffle. I believe he worked with Performance Years and they stamped out approx. 75 pieces and retailed them for $375-$450 ea. As for the Lower Ram Air Shroud, I’ve heard rumors of several dealers reproing this piece but have never seen one. Used, these items have been selling for close to what they went for on the recent auction. $400-$500 for the Carb. Shroud and about the same (or more) for the Hood Baffle. Scoops, wellll….. they’re all the same; Closed/Open.. doesn’t matter since the factory Ram Air Scoops were actually regular closed scoops, milled out and repackaged in a Ram Air Part Numbered GM Box. (So, don’t pay big bucks simply because of the ‘Ram Air’ label unless you’re a collector of NOS GM Boxes). If you are able to find an experienced Die Maker/Stamping facility and have the Hood and Carb Pans reproduced AND be able to sell these pieces for $400 a pair, you will have plenty of customers… no problem. Plus, remember the usage here:

Hood Baffle: 1967-1968 Firebird (and 1969 for those non-pursuists) Carb. Shroud: 1967-1968 Firebird, 1968 GTO (and 1969 F, 68-69 non-pursuists)

Thats a big market.

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Q: 1969 Special Color Paint Chips

Does anyone know if Special Colors were offered for 1969 Firebirds?

A: The color will be followed by the Rinshed Mason #

Regular Colors
—————————————————-
Mayfair Maize A-1715
Cameo White A-2080
Liberty Blue Irid. A-2098
Matador Red A-2099R
Warwick Blue Irid. A-2100
Crystal Turquoise Irid. A-2101
Midnight Green Irid. A-2102
Limelight Green Irid. A-2103
Expresso Brown Irid. A-2104
Champagne Irid. A-2105
Antique Gold Irid. A-2106D
Burgundy Irid. A-2107M
Palladium Silver Irid. A-2108
Carousel Red A-2111R (my chart says FB only,indicating its age)
Verdoro Green Irid. A-2110
Goldenrod Yellow A-2119
Windward Blue Irid. A-2123
Starlight Black A-946

Special Order Colors:
—————————————————-
Claret Red Irid A-6089R/169V51R
Nocturne Blue Irid. A-5077/169V29
Castillian Bronze Irid. A-5091/169V81

Trunk Finish: #844 Black-Gray-Aqua Multiflek

Stripe Colors:
White A-1199
Red A-212R
Black A-946

On the back of the chart, it lists the trim combo. # followed by Fisher #, then color and formula #.

This info is then broken down into the actual part- Upper instrumnet panel, Radio Spkr grills, rear window defogger grill, AC Ducts, Steering collumn jacket etc…

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Q: Acid Dipping

I’m considering having my front subframe dipped to remove the old paint etc. The procedure is one type of acid to remove paint and grease followed by hydrochloric to remove rust (there is only a very small amount).

A: One draw back to acid dipping is that if the clean-up isn’t thorough, traces can bleed through the paint and cause blistering or rusting, as Tom Sexton reports. Items with hidden nooks or pockets where the acid cannot be cleaned off adaquately can hold the acid, to come out later. Also, these hidden areas now have no paint or crud to protect the metal from rust since you cannot get paint into areas you cannot see. On thin sheetmetal parts like hoods, or body shells, this is a particular worry. The phosphate dip will probably not provide enough protection in the long run, especially in humid regions, or if the car is exposed to frequent rain or snow.

On my car, I scraped off the grease, dirt, and flaking paint with a paint scraper and cleaned using a degreaser. Then I used a heavy wire wheel on an angle grinder to get the more stubborn paint and surface rust off my subframe (off the car).

One advantage to this time consuming process was that I could then grind or chisel off the welding slag and other blemishes. It’s amazing how sloppy the factory was. I spent several hours over a number of days preping the subframe.

A: I had mine acid dipped years ago. Mine came out great and has never had a problem with leaching of the acid. I did a couple of things to prevent this. First, I washed the frame with soap and water when I got it back. After a long rinse, I blew it dry with compressed air. Then I sprayed the whole frame with lacquer thinner and again air dried it. I then primed it. no problemo!!!

I applied POR-15 to all accessable areas, even inside the boxed fram area, as far as I could reach. There were areas I knew would not be covered, but then I didn’t grind down to bare metal there either.

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Q: Autumn Bronze Irid.

Was ‘I – Autumn Bronze Irid. (A-1996 F)’ available which I found listed on my paint chips as an optional color on Firebird Model only. Most books do not list it as an option. Also, most of the color descriptions end with ‘Irid.’ What was this an abbreviation for in the description?

A: This is true. It is actually a color which GM offered on some of their models starting back in 1966. My father’s first 1967 Firebird had this color on it with a white cordova top and interior. I had my paint shop mix me up a quart of this color and I sprayed an old deck lid to help me decide whether to retain my original color, signet gold, or go with this color. It’s an interesting color because is is a base medium to darker red with gold flake. There is quite a difference in the color of the car from bright sunlight to twilight.

Irid. is sort more iridescent, or in more common terms, paint with metallic flake in it.

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Q: Chassis Paint

What is the correct paint for the chassis and components?

A: HPP published an article on the detailing of Jim Mattison’s 400 car some time back. According to the experts, the whole axle assembly, pumpkin tubes and all was left unpainted (don’t know about the backing plates). GM then gave it a quick shot of black paint from the backside, so the front is unpainted and the back is painted black. I plan to paint my assembly with Seymour Stainless Steel paint first and then do the backside in black. That way, it won’t rust and it will look correct.

As for dash paint, I plan to use PPG Ditlzer products. I have the original paint charts, so my guess is any ditzler supplier can mix it. You could use the reconditioning paint, but it probably won’t have the correct gloss level.

A: 1968 Paint Chart from the 1968 Pontiac Service Information Bulletin:

[pdfjs-viewer url=/dtb/docs/68-I-12.pdf viewer_height=800px fullscreen=true download=false print=true]

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Q:Custom Colors / Special Colors / Spring Release Colors

Just checked my paint code on my car (68 Firebird HT) And it says I-I —- Autumn Bronze and under the front fenders, Inside the doors, under the trunk lid it is bronze analyzer says custom color from other cars at customer Request I’m lost could use some help….

A: It is considered a “custom color” since it was not offered as a Firebird specific color but came from the Corvette. Autumn Bronze is the only one which I have heard got their own code, “I,” instead of the “SPEC” designation on the body tag.

Some body tags have “SHOW,” “SPEC,” “—,” or “PRIME” on them which indicated a show car, special color, or paint primer only. Have had a few people wanting me to tell them what their original paint was from this information. Interesting the things you could get done to your Firebird in the early years. Most of the “SPEC” paints were the spring release colors (Pink Mist, Carnival Red, Marigold Yellow, and Windward Blue).

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Q: Enamel Paint and Primer

When painting something with enamel, should I primer it first, I have heard both yes and no. Will priming it prevent future rust?

A: Think of primer as the glue that sticks the paint to the metal. Without it you will find that the paint will chip easily, or even flake off. It is not a rust preventative. Make sure all rust is gone before painting and you should have no problems. Reappearing rust is always from not removing all of it prior to painting. This means sand blasting or chemically stripping, not just grinding it down.

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Q: Hood Hinge Color

What is the correct finish for hood hinges ?? Black paint ?? Or Zinc plated ??

A: Neither. Hood hinges should be Gray Phosphate, a coating that some platers can do for you. In the special “Pontiac Tech” issue from High Performance Pontiac, there is an extensive article by Jim Dietzler, who in consulting Jim Mattison, has listed a number of under hood, and under car details that are aimed right at the concourse restoration standards for a 1st gen. Firebird. Using color photos, Jim gives detailed information about what is correct for each area, and how some restorers failed to get it right.

Plating costs can be made more reasonable by submitting a number of parts at one time. But if even this is too much for your budget, I believe that a company called OEM paints makes some spray can products that come close to matching the color and texture of the phosphate and oxide coatings used by the factories.

http://www.oempaints.com/

A: You don’t have to send parts to a plater. Go to garage sales and buy a hot plate with thermostat, some large Pyrex or stainless steel pans and dishes and plate your own . It does help to have a bead or sandblaster to clean them up first. I had a local plater do all the original hardware from about 5 early birds at once, handpicking all the best parts to do the yellow, silver, gray and black parts. All the black and gray parts started to rust almost immediately after assembly of entire frame-off. Even the plated parts I saved as spares rusted while in the sealed up containers. Only solution was to remove bolts one by one and replate myself. So moral is it may look good for awhile but if not prepped right, it will turn to Sh**.

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Q: Lower Front Valance Panel Color (Front Air Dam)

What color is the lower front baffle or spoiler suppose to be? I thought it was suppose to be the same as the body buy the auto body guy says it is suppose to be black.

A: The Lower Front Baffle was not a spoiler and was not painted Body Color. Should be same color black as the Upper RH/LH Filler Panels. Only the Camaros had the front ‘chin’ spoiler (and deck lid spoiler) option for 1967, 1968, 1969.

A: The correct color is Semi gloss under chassis black. Do yourself a favor and do it in POR-15 as it is almost impervious to rock chips bugs etc. It will fade in direct sunlight so make sure your car stays on all fours. Be sure and strip off all paint (sandblast) and use their metal prep.

A: Black is correct for this, not body color. I have a couple originals and NOS ones and all appear the same.

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