Frequently Asked Questions

Q: 67 and 68 Antenna Mast Angle

I would like to know what the angle of the antenna mast was to the deck on the rear-mounts for a ’67/68.

A: Straight out of my ’67 Firebird Service Manual suppliment:

…. antenna should lean inboard approximately 4 deg. when viewed from front or
rear and should stand vertically when viewed from the side”. This is stated
for both front and rear fender mounts. I would think that the ’68 would be
the same; anyone have anything different?

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Q: Antenna Part Numbers for 1968

Does anyone know the correct part numbers for the 1968 bird rear mount antenna mast and the mount itself?? How about for the front mount antenna??

A:
MAST
Front and Rear 67-68 F 3934224

BEZEL
Frt Fender 67-68 F 3897333

BEZEL
Rr Qtr. 67-68 F 3903424

BODY
Frt and Rear 67-68 F 3880695

NUT- MOUNTING
Frt and Rr 67-68 F 3863499

RING- GROUND
Frt 67-68 F 3863239

RING- GROUND
Rear 67-68 F 3903406

LEAD IN
Frt 67-68 F 3897334

LEAD IN
Rear 67-68 F 3897311

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Q: Antenna Parts from a Camaro?

Is the 1968 Bird AM front fender mounted Antenna the same as the 1968 Canaro front fender antenna???

A: The Antenna Body, Bezel and Nut are identical. As for the Mast, I would think it’s the same as well… difference would be minor if any.

A: If memory serves me right the mast is different,theres no “AM/FM” pontiac antenna, chevy there is, body is same, large nut is the same I think bezel is different.

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Q: Antenna Placement for 1968

Where does the 68 antenna go? I have seen front and back. How do I find out the correct placement for that?

A: …The Front Fender (RH) Antenna was the standard location on ’68 Firebirds Optional, was a Rear Quarter Mounted Antenna (RH). This will be noted on both the Body Broadcast Sheet (if you find it in your car) or on the Billing History. Parts are available (repro) for both applications. As far as antenna location… I use the Camaro assembly manual. It gives the exact dimension for the proper location (I assume Firebirds were located using the same).

A: To take you back to our original discussion, someone requested information on the factory location of the rear mounted antenna. Someone volunteered to measure some of his cars to determine the factory mounting location and send them to me. I, in turn, was to verify that his measurements and the factory drawing from a 68 Camaro assembly manual were the same. The confusing part was that the factory drawing listed the location at 114.25″ PV and 28.94″ PV with no description of what PV was. I suspected that the 114.25″ was from the firewall back and 28.94″ PV was from the centerline of the car.

I have confirmed that this is mostly true. The 28.94″ is indeed from the centerline if the car. The 114.25″ is from the front edge of the air box where the heater-A/C fan motor is located. This seam sticks out approximable one inch beyond the firewall. So if you want to use these measurements, use 113.25 from the firewall back.

He measured from the back of the car forward on three cars and got measurements of 14 1/2″, 15 1/4″, and 15 1/4″. He also noted that along with the 1.12″ diameter hole there is a small notch. This notch corresponds with the notch on the antenna base (called the bezel key) and I suppose it’s used to insure the correct rotation of the base.

The measurements for this notch is 0.14″ wide by 0.12″ long (approximately 1/8″ by 1/8th”) and rotated 75 degrees from horizontal (i.e., if standing behind the car while looking down at the hole it would be in approximately the 5 o-clock position.

He also noted that, although the hole and the notch were the same size in all cars, the notch was at a slightly different angle. This, along with the slightly different hole locations, gives reasons to believe that the factory used a hand punch and measureing tape to make the hole and not a machine.

The bottom line is this; if you mark the location for the hole approximable 15 1/4″ from the back and 27″ from the centerline of the car, drill a 1 1/8″ hole with an 1/8″ notch at 5 o-clock, you’ll do as good as the factory.

A: View the Camaro Assembly drawing for this which is the same application for the Firebird (Did not verify if the part numbers are the same for the Firebird):

A: I double checked my previous dimensions for locating the ’68 Firebird Rear Antenna Hole in the RH Rr. Qtr. Panel since some questions have come about differences seen with other originally equiped First Generation Firebirds:

1.125 dia hole
1.875 CL to Qtr. Edge at Trunk Gap
1.750 CL to Qtr. Character Line (outboard)
15.375 CL to Btm Edge of Qtr. Panel (at Trunk Edge Line)
(CL = Center Line)

As far as a “correct” measurement, there is no true correct answer. I’ve measured four Firebirds with rear antenna and no two were exactly the same. The process on the assembly line was not a true science but instead involved the placement of a template to roughly guide the location to stamp the hole for the rear antenna. It was a hastily done process like a lot of other processes on an assembly line during that era.

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Q: ’68 Antenna Style

I have a question regarding the radio antenna of my 68 bird. The current antenna is the telescoping (manual) oval type with my radio AM/FM. I am looking to replace or have mine rechromed. I read in the year one catalog that the telescoping manual ant. only came with the AM only radio, and the AM/FM radio came with the whip antenna.

A: …I don’t believe that the factory used any ‘whip’ antenna on the ’68 Firebird (or other 60’s models for that matter). They were all telescoping until the 70’s. The biggest variations is in the Ball of Tip design. Some with one groove, some with two. Some with none. Some with round tips, some with oval. I would think you’re better off finding an NOS one since rechroming would be difficult and costly.

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Q: Move Antenna from front to back

Would it be easy to change the antenna to the back from the front? Mine is non-power and up front. I’ve seen a few birds with the antenna in the back. I think it looks sleeker in the back. Has anyone ever moved one from the front to the back and why were some up front vs.. in the back?

A: I’ve done the swap and intend to do it again on my current car. The mounting dimensions are on the website I believe under the tech section, so you should have no problems there. The only issue is that you have to weld in a patch on your front fender and paint it.

To my knowledge, the rear mount antenna was an option. The biggest issue is if you want an OEM unit, they are very difficult to find. I found a Camaro one, but is slightly different.

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Q: Power Antennas for 1969

My 1969 Firebird was originally equipped with a power antenna. When I bought the car a bent antenna with motor was unbolted and sitting in the trunk. I am not positive this assembly is the original one, but it correctly fits the mounting bracket and the wiring harness. The mast is chrome, four segments, and has a hex head which is rounded at the very top. A metal case fits over the lower 10.5″ of the mast and is attached to the motor assembly by three screws. The code ‘P – 6050’ is cast on this case, just below is the name ‘Empire’ in script, followed by ‘1 – T’. The motor case has ’11 – 22 8AAXA’ cast on it in a semi circle. Can anyone tell me about these codes, if they match codes on other Firebirds or codes in a reference book?

Two other points that someone can probably clear up: 1) I was told by a guy trying to sell me a new mast that there was a different power antenna for convertibles vs. coupes; and 2) if I reinstalled the antenna described above the mast would probably stick out of the rear fender 6+ inches when fully retracted, does this sound right?

A: The Optional Power Antenna for the 1969 Firebird was part number 9796289. The ‘Drive’ Assy itself was the same for the coupe or conv. The Mast was unique to the 1969 Firebird (pt. # 546557). Only the ’68-1969 Tempest had different Adaptors/Brackets for the Conv. No components were different on the 1969 Firebird conv. Empire was the Supplier for most Pontiac Power Antenna’s. ’11 – 22 8AAXA’ …this would be the Assy Build Date for the Antenna (Nov.22’68) The problem with the Mast would be…. since the only one being reproduced is the Mast common to the ‘A’ Bodies and Full Size Pontiacs (orig. # 541963) yu may find that fully retracted, your mast may stick out a little more than the original. The Firebird used a shorter mast than the Tempest, Grand Prix, Full-Size. With a little modification to the bottom part, you could duplicate your original.

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Q: Rear Mounted Antennas for ’68

I bought a used rear mount antenna that is supposed to be correct for my 68 bird. I haven’t had a correct one (ever). Perhaps one of you can verify whether or not the mast is correct (The base sure looks correct from pictures I’ve seen). My mast is a single solid piece that has a slight taper to it (thicker at the bottom). It also has a round ball on top and is 29 1/2 inches from the top of the ball to the point where the rod begins at the tip of the conical base. I’m told it is correct for a 68 AM/FM rear mount, but the AM (only) antenna is slightly different.

Recently, someone else told me that the correct rear mount antenna is multi-sectioned, collapsible and has an oval top. Which is correct?

A: Sounds like some Camaro guy told you this was a correct AM/FM antenna. Truth is Firebird didnt have a different antenna for FM or AM. Really hard to say what you do have and would send it back if possible. The correct antenna mast is a multisection (3) with oval shape. The correct tip is oval with a groove. Correct lenght is 19″ tip to tip collapsed and 47 1/4″ fully extended. There are several variations of factory and replacement antennas . But the aforementioned is era correct. NOS masts for 67-8 are hard to find and are model specific. This adds to the hard to find formula. The mounting end is a threaded stud that has an exposed nut to lock the antenna mast into the correct position with the oval facing front to rear. This windcheater design also cut down on wind noise. Repro bases and bezels are avaliable but I know of no correct repro masts. 69 is a different story with a power mast also avaliable.

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Q: AC Actuators and Antenna Plug

As I am taking apart the front end of my bird, I have found two things and I don’t know what they are. One is come kind of canister and the other is a strange wire, like a plug or something. I took pictures of them so you can see what they look like. If you know what it is please tell me about it.

A: The canister is the vacuum reservoir for your AC system actuators (Fig s2.jpg). The plug appears to be for your radio antenna (Fig s1.jpg).

A: The one in the door jam looks like a antenna wire. The can with the vacuum hose looks like a reserve vacuum can. I took one of those off of a 7# Nova when I removed the A/C system. It was used to add additional vacuum to the ventilation controls.

A: The AC actuators are actually only used for the COLD IA position of the heat/AC selector. This actually means “cold inside air” and is just to the LEFT of the COLD position. In this position, the heater core is completely bypassed and the AC compressor is on with air recirculated from inside the vehicle. There are two vacuum pot actuators which are plumbed with a tee in parallel: One for the cowl plenum, which is a normally open spring loaded flapper that shuts off the outside air intake. It is located on the passenger side of the cowl area under the cowl grille and basically blocks off the cowl area to the fender side of it. The second one is in the passenger side kick panel vent which is normally closed. This one opens to allow inside air to be drawn (sort of backwards) into the AC evaporator intake. The position to operate on outside air is called COLD OA, which is just to the RIGHT of the COLD selection. This is where the actuators are switched off from the vacuum source and springs open/close them to their relaxed positions. About halfway between the COLD and the HOT selection, the compressor switch shuts off (temp. door is also allowing some intake air to the heater core after it passes through the evaporator, giving you a mixed temp.) All the way to the HOT postion allows air through the (now ambient temp. with no compressor) evaporator and then fully through the heater core for hot air. Incidentally, the kick panel flapper actually replaces the manually operated one that is used for non AC cars. There is a domed plastic cover (matches kick panel color and texture) that covers the vent so that the actuator is protected. COLD IA is like the MAX AC or RECIRC positions found on cars today; the air from inside the car is recirculated for those hot sweltering days like we have here in Maine for about a week out of the year :). If you don’t install the actuators, you won’t get the “MAX AC/RECIRC” and I’m not sure of the performance. Anyone know for sure? (I’ll bet it’s sufficient for us Northern folks without it).

P.S. The VENT position allows the plenum to open and the kick panel recirc to close in their relaxed states. The compressor is off and the heater core is bypassed. You just get outside air coming in through the (ambient temp.) evaporator and into the AC outlet distribution. Hope this helps.

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Q: AC Actuators and Antenna Plug

As I am taking apart the front end of my bird, I have found two things and I don’t know what they are. One is come kind of canister and the other is a strange wire, like a plug or something. I took pictures of them so you can see what they look like. If you know what it is please tell me about it.

A: The canister is the vacuum reservoir for your AC system actuators (Fig s2.jpg). The plug appears to be for your radio antenna (Fig s1.jpg).

A: The one in the door jam looks like a antenna wire. The can with the vacuum hose looks like a reserve vacuum can. I took one of those off of a 7# Nova when I removed the A/C system. It was used to add additional vacuum to the ventilation controls.

A: The AC actuators are actually only used for the COLD IA position of the heat/AC selector. This actually means “cold inside air” and is just to the LEFT of the COLD position. In this position, the heater core is completely bypassed and the AC compressor is on with air recirculated from inside the vehicle. There are two vacuum pot actuators which are plumbed with a tee in parallel: One for the cowl plenum, which is a normally open spring loaded flapper that shuts off the outside air intake. It is located on the passenger side of the cowl area under the cowl grille and basically blocks off the cowl area to the fender side of it. The second one is in the passenger side kick panel vent which is normally closed. This one opens to allow inside air to be drawn (sort of backwards) into the AC evaporator intake. The position to operate on outside air is called COLD OA, which is just to the RIGHT of the COLD selection. This is where the actuators are switched off from the vacuum source and springs open/close them to their relaxed positions. About halfway between the COLD and the HOT selection, the compressor switch shuts off (temp. door is also allowing some intake air to the heater core after it passes through the evaporator, giving you a mixed temp.) All the way to the HOT postion allows air through the (now ambient temp. with no compressor) evaporator and then fully through the heater core for hot air. Incidentally, the kick panel flapper actually replaces the manually operated one that is used for non AC cars. There is a domed plastic cover (matches kick panel color and texture) that covers the vent so that the actuator is protected. COLD IA is like the MAX AC or RECIRC positions found on cars today; the air from inside the car is recirculated for those hot sweltering days like we have here in Maine for about a week out of the year :). If you don’t install the actuators, you won’t get the “MAX AC/RECIRC” and I’m not sure of the performance. Anyone know for sure? (I’ll bet it’s sufficient for us Northern folks without it).

P.S. The VENT position allows the plenum to open and the kick panel recirc to close in their relaxed states. The compressor is off and the heater core is bypassed. You just get outside air coming in through the (ambient temp.) evaporator and into the AC outlet distribution. Hope this helps.

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Q: After Market Radios

I would like to put a stock looking radio in my 1969 firebird with a CD player located somewhere else , like trunk or CD player in dash would be good .They list them for 1968 Firebird but not 1969 .Anybody have any neat trick they have done , I want it to look stock . My dash is already hacked .

A: You can get cd changers that play through the fm radio in your dash. you mount the changer in the trunk and then tune your radio to a certain frequency (89.1 on mine) and you hear the cd player instead of the radio. you control the changer with a remote that you mount somewhere. this way you can put a stock looking radio in the dash.

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Q: Alternatives to Cutting Holes for Sound System Upgrades

What are my options for adding an aftermarket stereo system to my first generatin Firebird?

A: One way to add to your first gen sound system without doing ANY drilling, screwing, cutting, etc. WHATSOEVER to the interior or anywhere on the car for that matter:

Find a vintage Audiovox AM-FM converter. My car had AM radio only from the factory. I found that the Audiovox unit fits perfectly inside the ashtray. The wires out the back run directly up to the back of the factory AM unit. To change from AM to FM or to change FM channels, just open the ashtray, and voila!

I know, I know, you audiophiles scoff at the lousy sound out of the single 32 year old dash speaker. But I already have a killer auto sound system in my daily driver. With the top down and the oldies FM station on, I’m turning back the clock 30 years! And, more importantly, I haven’t made a single new hole that wasn’t there the day it came out of the factory. For us sticklers for originality that’s important. And the Audiovox units are cheap, easy to find, and even correct for the era.

A: I used to install car stereos when I was in college and have done many custom jobs. I wanted to install a system in my 1968 that could be removed without a trace and minimize space taken but still have a good sounding system. I achieved about 80% of my goal and I’m quite pleased with the results.

I installed a Sony system (most tolerant to engine and alternator noise). The dash has the receiver/tape deck. Below the dash behind and above the console clock I installed and EQ which is actually bracketed to the ash tray brackets. Below the EQ are 3 mini gauges which are bracketed to the EQ. The whole setup is very attractive (lights look great at night) and can be removed without a trace. The console clock does block viewing the center gauge a bit. Need to change my angle of view and I can see it.

I installed a pair of 5 1/4″ flush mount speakers in the location where the dash mono speaker is located. These are the type that don’t have an extruded ring that allow a speaker grill to be snapped on, they must be screwed on. I tried the after market speaker kit but found that the bracketing doesn’t support the speakers well and the 4″ speakers are too small to run with an amp (got it from Classic and wasn’t worth it). I bolted the speakers side by side using some sheet steel and found a location under the dash to slip the speaker sheet steel between the firewall and the dash. The whole thing is held in place using another brace that bolts from the speakers to spot behind the location where a factory installed center air conditioning port would be located if it were installed (no a/c in my car). 1/3 of each speaker is blocked by the opening of the mono speaker opening but it still sounds pretty good. I need to add a baffle to get more bass response.

In the trunk, I mounted 2 6×9 speaker enclosures I bought from Wall Mart for $13 each. There’re suspended from the stationary part of the trunk deck using metal brackets and angled somewhat upward to push sound over the rear seat. They are spaced apart from each other with enough room to mount CD changer between them (which I’ll add later). The boot muffles the sound a bit and it really gets muffled when the top is down. The way the speakers are mounted, I could cut an opening into the boot and mount the speaker grill over it giving it a nice finished look and exposing the speaker grill. This is a far better approach then installing those “factory” speaker brackets because there is an enclosed baffle for bass response to develop. The way the speaker enclosures are mounted, they don’t interfere with the trunk spring bar and allow access to removal of the spare tire. They also maximize trunk space.

Lastly, I have two Sony amps in the trunk. One 100 W amp for the front speakers mounted on the floor next to the passenger side cocktail shaker, and one 200 W amp for the rear speakers mounted on the vertical brace holding the passenger side cocktail shaker. Together, there is enough power to get good bass response with the top up or down, and there is almost no modification to the car (other than drilling some holes for mounting screws).

I might add that in this system I didn’t need any noise suppression adapters. Why? Because good quality systems have them built in.

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Q: AM-FM Stereo Installation Questions 1969

Can anyone shed some light on this question ? Do the AM FM Stereo Radios for the 1969 F bodies need to have the amplifier unit installed or were they made to stand alone also. Also, when using the factory 8-track player, do you need to have the amp unit installed ? Any insight you may have on these radio installs will be greatly appreciated. Have you converted your bird to factory AM-FM ? If so, drop me a note, I have some questions.

A: The 1968 radio had a removable plug to add the multiplexer, but in 1969 they went to a separate radio for stereo. You need to have both units, and they are supposed to be a matched set. The label on the side of the radio will identify it, but here’s a couple clues. The 69 Firebird radios, all 3 of them, had longer pushbuttons than other Pontiacs to reach through the angled dash. The AM and AM/FM had black pushbuttons, while the stereo radio had chrome PB’s. On both the AM/FM and the stereo units, the left-most button had AM molded into it, and the right-most button had FM molded in. The AM and AM/FM radios worked by themselves, meaning no external components except power and a speaker. The AM/FM Stereo requires the external multiplex unit to function, it mounts above the glovebox, and has a cable with a connector that has 9 pins, and the cable is on the radio, plugs into the MPX. (That is opposite the 1968 design, the MPX had the cable attached to it.)

Since you could buy a Firebird with AM/8-Track only, I assume the 8-Track is also self-contained. The 8-Track used kick panel speakers like the AM/FM stereo system did, but with the AM/8-Track combo, I believe the AM played through a dash speaker, and the tape played through the kick panel speakers. There are special harnesses for each application, and they are available repro from many Pontiac parts vendors. I don’t own a 1969 Delco Radio manual, but I know a couple folks who do, and might be able to get more info as you need it.

I have a couple 1969 AM/FM Stereo systems that are currently on the shelf, but both systems came from cars that did not have the tape player, so I bought a harness to connect them. I have not tried to make the system work yet. If you have a Stereo radio that is missing the MPX, I have at least 1 unit spare, maybe 2, but a radio restorer would probably have to calibrate them to your radio.

A: I had a 1968 400 coupe that had a factory 8 track and an AM radio it used the 4 speakers for the 8 track (kick panels and dual rears) and a single speaker in the top of dash( same as all Other single front speaker radios) It didnt have any switch to cange from one system to the other so you could play both at the same time.

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Q: AM/FM Connections 1967

I bought an AM/FM radio that is supposed to be for the 1967. The dash speaker is missing and so is the original radio connector. The connector on the radio has 3 connections. I would imagine they are ground, +12 and speaker out (common ground). My question is, does anyone know the sequence of the connections (the plug is close to one side of the radio)? I don’t want to hook it up wrong and cook the radio.

A: My wiring diagram shows three “tabs” in the connector on the back of the
radio. Reading from left to right, they are speaker, speaker, +12V.

Here is a lame attempt at an ASCII drawing.

				 +------------+
				 | --  --  -- |
				 +------------+
			
				   ^   ^   ^
				   |   |   +----- +12V
				   |   |    
				   |   +------- Speaker
				   +----------- Speaker

Now I realize that the connector on the back of the radio actually faces toward the floor, so this diagram is looking into the connector if you would have rotated the radio such that the faceplate was facing you and you are looking down into the connector on the back of the radio.

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Q: AM/FM Stereo Adapter

Was there an option for an adapter to be plugged into an AM/FM Pontiac Stereo? If so, what did it do?

A: I just took my 1968 AM/FM radio to a local guy here in PA that is listed in Hemmings. He is an old radio “guru”, talked to him for almost 2 hours one day….he then pulled out I beleive the auxilliary plug for the stereo amp hook up and looked at the number of prong holes in there, he was able to confirm from this that the radio was indeed a Pontiac radio and a 1968.

A: The guy is correct in the description of the “plug” in the Firebird radio. The factory supplied an am/fm radio with this shorting plug, which was removed at the dealer when the FM multiplex adapter was installed. This plug has a pin set up thats the same as an old vacuum tube,and has the controls for volume ,balance,and tone running thru it. When the multiplex adapter is installed by plugging into the socket where the plug was , it disables these functions in the radio and moves them to the adapter. The adapter adds the other side of the stereo signal to the 4 speaker system. This was the dealer installed setup for 1967 and 1968 on the Firebirds,however all other models could get a similar system as factory equiptment. I am looking for anyone that has or had the 1967 and 1968 stereo adapter.

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Q: 67 and 68 Antenna Mast Angle

I would like to know what the angle of the antenna mast was to the deck on the rear-mounts for a ’67/68.

A: Straight out of my ’67 Firebird Service Manual suppliment:

…. antenna should lean inboard approximately 4 deg. when viewed from front or
rear and should stand vertically when viewed from the side”. This is stated
for both front and rear fender mounts. I would think that the ’68 would be
the same; anyone have anything different?

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Q: Antenna Part Numbers for 1968

Does anyone know the correct part numbers for the 1968 bird rear mount antenna mast and the mount itself?? How about for the front mount antenna??

A:
MAST
Front and Rear 67-68 F 3934224

BEZEL
Frt Fender 67-68 F 3897333

BEZEL
Rr Qtr. 67-68 F 3903424

BODY
Frt and Rear 67-68 F 3880695

NUT- MOUNTING
Frt and Rr 67-68 F 3863499

RING- GROUND
Frt 67-68 F 3863239

RING- GROUND
Rear 67-68 F 3903406

LEAD IN
Frt 67-68 F 3897334

LEAD IN
Rear 67-68 F 3897311

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Q: Antenna Parts from a Camaro?

Is the 1968 Bird AM front fender mounted Antenna the same as the 1968 Canaro front fender antenna???

A: The Antenna Body, Bezel and Nut are identical. As for the Mast, I would think it’s the same as well… difference would be minor if any.

A: If memory serves me right the mast is different,theres no “AM/FM” pontiac antenna, chevy there is, body is same, large nut is the same I think bezel is different.

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Q: Antenna Placement for 1968

Where does the 68 antenna go? I have seen front and back. How do I find out the correct placement for that?

A: …The Front Fender (RH) Antenna was the standard location on ’68 Firebirds Optional, was a Rear Quarter Mounted Antenna (RH). This will be noted on both the Body Broadcast Sheet (if you find it in your car) or on the Billing History. Parts are available (repro) for both applications. As far as antenna location… I use the Camaro assembly manual. It gives the exact dimension for the proper location (I assume Firebirds were located using the same).

A: To take you back to our original discussion, someone requested information on the factory location of the rear mounted antenna. Someone volunteered to measure some of his cars to determine the factory mounting location and send them to me. I, in turn, was to verify that his measurements and the factory drawing from a 68 Camaro assembly manual were the same. The confusing part was that the factory drawing listed the location at 114.25″ PV and 28.94″ PV with no description of what PV was. I suspected that the 114.25″ was from the firewall back and 28.94″ PV was from the centerline of the car.

I have confirmed that this is mostly true. The 28.94″ is indeed from the centerline if the car. The 114.25″ is from the front edge of the air box where the heater-A/C fan motor is located. This seam sticks out approximable one inch beyond the firewall. So if you want to use these measurements, use 113.25 from the firewall back.

He measured from the back of the car forward on three cars and got measurements of 14 1/2″, 15 1/4″, and 15 1/4″. He also noted that along with the 1.12″ diameter hole there is a small notch. This notch corresponds with the notch on the antenna base (called the bezel key) and I suppose it’s used to insure the correct rotation of the base.

The measurements for this notch is 0.14″ wide by 0.12″ long (approximately 1/8″ by 1/8th”) and rotated 75 degrees from horizontal (i.e., if standing behind the car while looking down at the hole it would be in approximately the 5 o-clock position.

He also noted that, although the hole and the notch were the same size in all cars, the notch was at a slightly different angle. This, along with the slightly different hole locations, gives reasons to believe that the factory used a hand punch and measureing tape to make the hole and not a machine.

The bottom line is this; if you mark the location for the hole approximable 15 1/4″ from the back and 27″ from the centerline of the car, drill a 1 1/8″ hole with an 1/8″ notch at 5 o-clock, you’ll do as good as the factory.

A: View the Camaro Assembly drawing for this which is the same application for the Firebird (Did not verify if the part numbers are the same for the Firebird):

A: I double checked my previous dimensions for locating the ’68 Firebird Rear Antenna Hole in the RH Rr. Qtr. Panel since some questions have come about differences seen with other originally equiped First Generation Firebirds:

1.125 dia hole
1.875 CL to Qtr. Edge at Trunk Gap
1.750 CL to Qtr. Character Line (outboard)
15.375 CL to Btm Edge of Qtr. Panel (at Trunk Edge Line)
(CL = Center Line)

As far as a “correct” measurement, there is no true correct answer. I’ve measured four Firebirds with rear antenna and no two were exactly the same. The process on the assembly line was not a true science but instead involved the placement of a template to roughly guide the location to stamp the hole for the rear antenna. It was a hastily done process like a lot of other processes on an assembly line during that era.

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Q: ’68 Antenna Style

I have a question regarding the radio antenna of my 68 bird. The current antenna is the telescoping (manual) oval type with my radio AM/FM. I am looking to replace or have mine rechromed. I read in the year one catalog that the telescoping manual ant. only came with the AM only radio, and the AM/FM radio came with the whip antenna.

A: …I don’t believe that the factory used any ‘whip’ antenna on the ’68 Firebird (or other 60’s models for that matter). They were all telescoping until the 70’s. The biggest variations is in the Ball of Tip design. Some with one groove, some with two. Some with none. Some with round tips, some with oval. I would think you’re better off finding an NOS one since rechroming would be difficult and costly.

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Q: Factory Kick Panel Speakers

What did the factory kick panel speakers look like?

A: Photos for the factory A/C kick panels and factory kick panel speakers:

Left kick panel:

Right kick panel:

Both kick panels:

Speaker opening (w/tape measure for reference):

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Q: Factory Radio Identification

I am going to a swap meet this weekend but am not exactly sure how to identify a factory correct radio. Anyone have some codes?

A: Here are the numbers:

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Q: Kick Panel Speaker Replacement

I am looking for advice on what after market speakers I can fit into the space behind the kick panels yet still use the stock grill covers. The idea is to put the best possible speaker into the existing opening. Please include manufacturer and model number in your reply.

A: If you are referring to the stock grilles as being the factory 4 speaker system with kick panel speakers, then theres really not much you can do to upgrade in the factory location.

Trouble is the brace for cowl gets in the way of any magnet larger than stock. Since no one else makes a magnet like Delco did then its too tight for after market ones. I got a good set of Jensens 4×6 at Walmart for around $40 and used a BFH (Big Fat Hammer) to reshape the cowl brace to fit.The other option is to fabricate a spacer to fill the gap between grille and kickpanel and install a larger speaker with brace intact. Happy hammering

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Q: Move Antenna from front to back

Would it be easy to change the antenna to the back from the front? Mine is non-power and up front. I’ve seen a few birds with the antenna in the back. I think it looks sleeker in the back. Has anyone ever moved one from the front to the back and why were some up front vs.. in the back?

A: I’ve done the swap and intend to do it again on my current car. The mounting dimensions are on the website I believe under the tech section, so you should have no problems there. The only issue is that you have to weld in a patch on your front fender and paint it.

To my knowledge, the rear mount antenna was an option. The biggest issue is if you want an OEM unit, they are very difficult to find. I found a Camaro one, but is slightly different.

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Q: Power Antennas for 1969

My 1969 Firebird was originally equipped with a power antenna. When I bought the car a bent antenna with motor was unbolted and sitting in the trunk. I am not positive this assembly is the original one, but it correctly fits the mounting bracket and the wiring harness. The mast is chrome, four segments, and has a hex head which is rounded at the very top. A metal case fits over the lower 10.5″ of the mast and is attached to the motor assembly by three screws. The code ‘P – 6050’ is cast on this case, just below is the name ‘Empire’ in script, followed by ‘1 – T’. The motor case has ’11 – 22 8AAXA’ cast on it in a semi circle. Can anyone tell me about these codes, if they match codes on other Firebirds or codes in a reference book?

Two other points that someone can probably clear up: 1) I was told by a guy trying to sell me a new mast that there was a different power antenna for convertibles vs. coupes; and 2) if I reinstalled the antenna described above the mast would probably stick out of the rear fender 6+ inches when fully retracted, does this sound right?

A: The Optional Power Antenna for the 1969 Firebird was part number 9796289. The ‘Drive’ Assy itself was the same for the coupe or conv. The Mast was unique to the 1969 Firebird (pt. # 546557). Only the ’68-1969 Tempest had different Adaptors/Brackets for the Conv. No components were different on the 1969 Firebird conv. Empire was the Supplier for most Pontiac Power Antenna’s. ’11 – 22 8AAXA’ …this would be the Assy Build Date for the Antenna (Nov.22’68) The problem with the Mast would be…. since the only one being reproduced is the Mast common to the ‘A’ Bodies and Full Size Pontiacs (orig. # 541963) yu may find that fully retracted, your mast may stick out a little more than the original. The Firebird used a shorter mast than the Tempest, Grand Prix, Full-Size. With a little modification to the bottom part, you could duplicate your original.

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Q: Radio AM to AM/FM Conversion

Does anyone know how to install an am/fm factory radio into a 1968 firebird that originally had an am radio?

A: I don’t have any experience with the 1968 Firebird’s but if they are like the 1967’s, then the swap should be very easy. The mechanical mountings are the same between the AM and AM/FM radio. The electrical connections are also the same. It should be a drop in replacement.

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Q: Radio Fit

I have a 1968 Firebird. Will a 1969 radio fit the dash? I know there were several changes from those two years and not sure if the radio would be one of them.

A: Unfortunately no. The 1967/1968’s have a different dash than the 1969’s and the radios are different in every way. The 1967/1968 radios are virtually identical except for the color of the face (one is black and one is blue and as I recall the blue was the 1968).

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Q: Radio Noise after Upgrade

A: During my college years after GM, I installed over 100 car stereos working at a shop and on my own and noise was all too common. I warned anyone thinking about installing an “amped” system that this would be a problem, and it usually was. The secret to eliminating noise is to eliminate resistance in power and ground and in signal distribution. Resistance points act as an antenna for noise. Isolate the power and ground from other systems in the car. Circuits sharing the “ground buss” tend to emanate crap onto the ground (chassis) and power lines. Even the best filtering won’t get rid of it. Garbage in, garbage out!

1. You get what you pay for! Cheap amps like the ones they sell at Radio Shack will whine and pop. Use quality products. Sony has some of the best filtering in their power supply inputs.

2. For amps and accessories such as a CD player mounted in the trunk. Use heavy gauge stranded wire from the battery (protected by a circuit breaker at the battery), twisted with a battery return line, and surrounded in braided shielding grounded at both ends. Avoid grounding the amp to the chassis.

3. Your in-dash unit and equalizer should be on a dedicated power circuit as well. Bring in a shielded power and ground from the battery as well after the circuit breaker. Switch the power on/off using a separate 12V relay operated by the original radio power source.

Once you clean up the power delivery problems, move on to the signal distribution.

4. Too much hype off of gold plated RCA connectors. It’s true, gold is the best conductor. However, in my tests with a spectrum analyzer I’ve found that a good quality connector, one that provides good contact between the shield of the jack and plug, makes no difference. It’s a signal with very low current and therefore very little chance of voltage drop due to current. Use very good braided shielded wire between the dash and the amp. I make my own custom RCA cables using teflon covered RG178 coaxial cable (not TV antenna wire – it’s too big but will work if you can’t get the small RG178).

5. Speakers located near the amp need not have shielded wire. It’s a good practice to shield speaker wires servicing doors, kick panels, or anywhere near the firewall.

6. As far as fidelity in a convertible goes, make sure the speakers are in an enclosed chamber like a speaker box, such that sound that travels backward in the speaker is reflected forward. The highs are going to get lost unless you mount tweeters next to your ears.

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Q: Radio Part Numbers

I’d like to put an original radio in my bird. Does anyone have the part numbers from the AM and the AM/FM radios that were in the 1967 birds? Were the 1967, 1968, and 1969 units interchangable? Any other GM car have use the same radios?

A: AM/FM (mono) Radios; (Model Number)

1967 Firebird AM/FM 986824
1968 Firebird AM 7305572
1968 Firebird AM/FM 7305582
1967-1968 F AM Die-Cast Face Plate 7298249
1967-1968 F AM/FM Die-Cast Face Plate 7298474
1969 Firebird AM/FM 92FFP1

1. 1967 had a Black Face w/White Numbers

2. 1968 had a Steel Blue Face w/Green Numbers

3. 1969 had a Black Face w/White Numbers

4. 1967/1968 will physically interchange; 1969 is unique

5. Firebird and Camaro radios were physically the same with minor cosmetic differences.

6. 1969 AM/FM Stereo had a ‘Red Dot’ (light) in the face

7. Most obvious distinguishing feature is the angled face plate

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Q: Radio Part Numbers for 1968-1969

I am after a 1969 AM/FM and want to be sure I get the right one. I will likely have to get it mailed to me and I want to verify it by part numbers. My 1968 radios have only a part number but in 1969 there is a part number and a model number, can anyone give me either of these for the 1969 Firebird. Any chance this radio was shared with any other cars, i.e. Tempest??

The Firebird part numbers I do know are :

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Q: Radio Question

I’m about to buy an in-dash Kenwood AM/FM/Cass (KRC3006) and install a 6 CD changer in the glove box of my 1968 Firebird (with AC).

Any suggestions, comments, warnings before I buy the stuff and begin the install?

A: Before you lay your money down, I would be very careful and check into how the radio mounts into the dash. As you are probably aware by now, the 1967 and 1968 FIrebird radios differed greatly on the way they were mounted in the dash from most radios/cars of that era.

Most radios back then were mounted into the car by three mount points, the volume and tuner “styles” supported the front of the radio, and there was usually a bracket that supported the rear of the radio. In the 1967 and 1968 Firebirds, the radio actually has two tabs on the front of the radio, (one on each side), which are used to bolt the radio to the dash in the front. The volume and tuner “styles” do not in any way play a part in holding the radio in the dash.

Also be aware that the dashboards on these cars slope “back” which requires an “angled” face plate on the radio to “clean”

If the radio you wish to install is a generic radio, you probably will not be happy with home the radio fits in the dash.

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Q: Rear Mounted Antennas for ’68

I bought a used rear mount antenna that is supposed to be correct for my 68 bird. I haven’t had a correct one (ever). Perhaps one of you can verify whether or not the mast is correct (The base sure looks correct from pictures I’ve seen). My mast is a single solid piece that has a slight taper to it (thicker at the bottom). It also has a round ball on top and is 29 1/2 inches from the top of the ball to the point where the rod begins at the tip of the conical base. I’m told it is correct for a 68 AM/FM rear mount, but the AM (only) antenna is slightly different.

Recently, someone else told me that the correct rear mount antenna is multi-sectioned, collapsible and has an oval top. Which is correct?

A: Sounds like some Camaro guy told you this was a correct AM/FM antenna. Truth is Firebird didnt have a different antenna for FM or AM. Really hard to say what you do have and would send it back if possible. The correct antenna mast is a multisection (3) with oval shape. The correct tip is oval with a groove. Correct lenght is 19″ tip to tip collapsed and 47 1/4″ fully extended. There are several variations of factory and replacement antennas . But the aforementioned is era correct. NOS masts for 67-8 are hard to find and are model specific. This adds to the hard to find formula. The mounting end is a threaded stud that has an exposed nut to lock the antenna mast into the correct position with the oval facing front to rear. This windcheater design also cut down on wind noise. Repro bases and bezels are avaliable but I know of no correct repro masts. 69 is a different story with a power mast also avaliable.

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Q: Rear Speaker Grille Color

Does anyone know the original color of the rear speaker grilles in the 1968 coupe? I need to repaint and want to get it correct.

A: Same color as the rear package tray (i.e. black would be black,parchment(white) would be black red would be red) and make sure to use FLAT not semi gloss.

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Q: Rear Speaker Installation

I have a 1968 Firebird and according to PHS my car was equipped with an AM radio. But my car actually has an AM/FM radio which appears to be correct for the year. My guess is that the first owner of the car had the AM/FM installed by the dealer after the car had been built and delivered to the dealer.

Anyway, the radio has a “fader bezel” on the right hand side so I decided I would install a rear speaker to make use of the radio’s full (?) potential. I purchased an accurate cardboard speaker housing, speaker and grille as well as supporting hardware to attach the speaker behind the rear seat. I’m just not sure whether I should attach the speaker on the right or left side.

The diagrams in the 1968 Pontiac Shop manual seem to imply that if you had just one speaker in the car it was placed in the right rear. I have not seen a 1968 convertible with one rear speaker at any shows so I’m asking you all. Does anyone know for sure which side of the car a single rear speaker goes? Or does it go in the center.

Another question. I am assuming that the well cover goes over the speaker and that I have to cut a hole at least as large as the speaker opening in the speaker housing in the well cover and then attach the grille over that area of the well cover. Is that correct? Again, the shop manual’s diagram leaves a lot to be desired and to the imagination.

A: You are correct in the installation or the rear speaker, and it goes on the RIGHT SIDE. The assembly goes under the top well, and the speaker grille goes on top, so you can see it when you look in the rear window.

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Q: Rear Speaker Package Tray

I found out about the package tray. As I now understand it, the coupes had a mesh package tray and no grills if they had rear speakers. Is this correct? Thanks again in advance.

A: This is another example of vendors dictating to the consumer what is correct. Ive never seen any factory rear speakers installed with a mesh package tray for 67-9 I have seen this on the 70 and up models only. Cut the orginal cardboard out in the shape of speakers from under neath. Use GM speaker grills to cover the speakers. I wouldnt try and “save” your old package tray, as its most likely sun faded and brittle. Easy way to route wiring to rear is remove the scuff plates at rocker or use a stiff wire or fish tape to fish wiring under the carpet. You dont say if you have a console but thats another easy way to get wiring from front to back. Stereo can be acomplished with one pair of wires(ground speakers at rear shelf.) but for better sound quality use a pair for each with shielded wire. I remember installing a new gadget in my bird in 1970. It was a “cassette” deck and I put it in the glove box. Car still looked orginal and no one ripped off my tape deck. Good Luck

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Q: Rear Speaker Placement

I see that Year one sell boxes for rear speakers for Convertibles. I’ve seen a picture of a rear convertible seat with a speaker mounted in the center top of it but were dual speakers factory mounted in the rear of the car ? and if so where and were “grills” used ?…under/in the well liner ? All the catalogues refer to a “rear parcel shelf” but this would only be for the coupe?

A: All 1967, 1968, and 1969 Firebirds with a rear speaker option had them mounted on the right side, whether coupe or convertible. Cars with the Stereo options had 4 speakers – 2 in the kick panels, and 2 in the rear. There were no center mounted rear speakers. The convertible needed a housing, and it was the same cardboard material used for the glovebox. It hung by 2 screws from the support that the rear seatback support was connected to, and went under the top storage well. There was a hole cut through the well, and the speaker grille clamped the well liner between it and the speaker housing.

Most every option a Firebird could have that required something screwed to the car had indentations stamped in the location the optional components mounted to, so you might find exactly where the speaker housing screws go. I believe the Service Manual has some diagrams for installation, as some were dealer installed as accessory kits.

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Q: Speaker Locations 1969

When a 1969 convertible was ordered with an AM/FM radio, did the speakers get located in the kick panel or behind the back seat? Was the back seat location an extra cost option? My car originally was ordered with an AM/FM but when I bought it the dash and kick panels were butchered for aftermarket equipment.

A: You’ll need to specify if you mean the AM/FM monaural radio, or the AM/FM Stereo Multiplex radio. AM and AM/FM came standard with one (1) speaker, mounted in the front center dash. You could order a single rear seat speaker option with those two radios as well. In convertibles, the rear speaker was on the right side. It hung on the rear seatback support in a cardboard housing facing the window, with the speaker grill in the topwell and the speaker and housing hidden behind the topwell.

AM/FM Stereo or 8-track stereo cars had the 4-speaker system, with the kick panel mounted fronts. If AM or AM/FM monaural radios were installed with the 8-track, the radios played through the dash speaker, and the other 4 speakers played the tapes. The rear speakers in convertibles had 2 through the topwell, on the left and right.

This was different than the stereo systems installed in A-bodies. Surprisingly, the 1969 LeMans, Tempest and GTO stereo only had one front and one rear speaker, with the stereo signal cut that way. I think even the Grand Prix was the same.

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