Frequently Asked Questions

Find answers to Frequently Asked Questions for First Generation Firebirds that have been asked and answered on FGF. Special thanks needs to be given to all the FGF members who took the time to respond to other member's questions.

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Interior - Consoles and Components

Short answer: The 1967 console top had a satin-black “camera-case grain” finish. For 1968–69, Pontiac added a burled-walnut metal applique (with matching door and rear covers) and eliminated the rear ashtray and light.

The main console structure and chrome rails were the same all three Firebird years (and the 1967 Camaro). Unbolt a 1968–69 walnut applique and you’re looking at a 1967 console with holes drilled for the applique studs. The appliques differed between standard- and automatic-equipped cars.

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Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am

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Short answer: The factory manual just says “remove the console,” so here’s the real procedure members use:

  1. Pop off the black plastic button on top (it just snaps in).
  2. Loosen the set screw inside the T-handle (right side) and pull the handle off the shaft.
  3. Remove the PRNDL shift plate — it’s held by either 4 chrome screws through the top or hidden snap-in clips (gently pry up to release the clips) so the console can slide over it.
  4. Remove the small screw on each side at the front of the console, plus the larger floor screws: one inside the console bin (bottom) and one under the rear cover (remove the cover’s sheet-metal screws first); some also have a bolt up in the glovebox.

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Short answer: Only the 1967 Camaro console is the same as the “standard” console used in 1967–69 Firebirds. The shift-plate insert can be changed to suit either an automatic or a manual transmission.

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Short answer: The 1968 Custom Trim Option is code 554, and the trim-tag style number tells you what your car has. Note that the Custom Trim Option (554) and the Custom/Deluxe interior are separate — you can have the option with standard interior.

1968 Trim-Tag Style Numbers
Coupe Conv. Meaning
22337 22367 Standard interior, no Custom Trim option
22437 22467 Standard interior, with Custom Trim option
22637 22667 Deluxe (Custom) interior, with Custom Trim option

Custom Trim Option (554) included: deluxe wheel discs, deluxe steering wheel, molded-vinyl door and quarter trim, vinyl-and-weave seats, roof-rail moldings, wheel-opening moldings, instrument-panel grip (grab bar), pedal trim, and dual horns. It also came with different (longer) window regulators.

Speculated as included (not confirmed): 160-mph speedo, “BIRD” emblem on the glove-box door, custom/deluxe seat belts (brushed-metal buckles), the small white “BIRD” etched on the front side glass, interior windshield A-pillar moldings, and wheel trim rings (when ordered with Rally II wheels).

Any of these items could be ordered individually on a standard-interior car (22437/22467) — except the deluxe interior itself, which defines 22637/22667.

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Short answer: The 1968 Custom Trim option (554) included: Custom seat covers (Morrokide + stitched knit vinyl), custom molded door and quarter trim panels, the assist bar above the glovebox, dual horns, deluxe wheel covers, deluxe steering wheel, custom pedal trim, front & rear wheel-opening moldings, drip-rail moldings (coupes), and windshield-pillar garnish moldings.

The RH sideview mirror was not part of the option. Everything in the package could be ordered separately on a Standard-trim car except the custom seats/trim panels and the assist bar. (And contrary to a common claim, the etched “Bird” front-side glass was not tied to Custom Trim — many original Standard-trim cars have it.) More on FGF.

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Short answer: The walnut knob was a 1968 factory or dealer option. Only the GTO used the unique “GTO crest” knob; everything else, Firebird included, used the “Pontiac Motor Division” knob with the shift-pattern design.

A few cars reportedly left dealers with a GTO knob (likely just dealer stock used to dress cars up). Note only the GTO knob has been correctly reproduced — the PMD repro is a cheap version with an incorrect adhesive lucite medallion (no detail) and an incorrectly formed knob. Figure ~$75 and up for a correct used/NOS PMD knob.

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Short answer: The part numbers: 984700 = 1968 Firebird/full-size 4-speed Custom Walnut knob; 9794300 = 1969 all 4-speed. This was a factory/dealer option for all Pontiacs, with a unique smaller GTO-crest version used on the GTO (’65–68).

Members who compared an original to a reproduction noted the repro differs noticeably in size and detail — worth knowing if you’re chasing a correct look.

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Short answer: A clean way to add a dual-gate to a Firebird automatic is to use a Hurst dual-gate from an Oldsmobile 442 — it’s the exact same size and form as the Firebird shifter (even the mounting holes match), and the console fits smoothly over it. The 442 unit has a bent stick (sits closer to the driver) and a more positive lock on the manual side than the straight-stick GTO version.

A dual-gate has two slots: a “hers” side that works like a normal shifter and a “his” side that shifts manually — so you can row up and down through an automatic without missing a gear or hitting reverse. (A 1968 Firebird with a 442 dual-gate won Best of Show at a recent T/A Nationals.)
Fitting the plate: the GTO shifter plate is smaller than the Firebird’s, so it won’t cover the console hole. Mark the Firebird plate with the GTO outline, cut the opening with a Dremel cutting wheel, grind the lip off the GTO plate, and JB-Weld it into the Firebird shell (add a couple of gussets to beef it up). A custom walnut-veneer insert finishes it off.
GTO dual-gate and bracket
GTO dual-gate and bracket.
442 dual-gate and plate
442 dual-gate and plate.
Standard and dual-gate plates
Standard and dual-gate plates.
Modified dual-gate plate, front
Modified dual-gate plate — front.
Modified dual-gate plate, back
Modified dual-gate plate — back (showing the smaller GTO bezel fitted into the Firebird one).
Dual-gate in console, top
Dual-gate in console — top.
Dual-gate in console, side
Dual-gate in console — side.

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Short answer: Collected walnut shift-knob part numbers (further verification welcome):

Walnut Shift Knob Part Numbers
Part # Application
984700 4-speed — all 1968 (per 1968 Accessory Book)
984848 3-speed — all 1966–69
984989 M/T 1967 Firebird
9794300 4-speed — all 1969
Per the 1968 Full-Line Accessory Booklet, the Custom Gearshift Knob (code 524) was “walnut appearing,” available on all models (factory/dealer), with the shift position shown on the 4-speed knob and the Pontiac “Vee” crest on the 3-speed knob. The “Pontiac Motor Division” w/pattern knob is most likely what the factory installed on 4-speed Firebirds; reports of the GTO-crest knob and the 1969-style knob on 1968 ‘Birds remain unverified.

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Short answer: The original 1969 shifter was a Hurst Competition Plus — and says so on the body. Tells: the chrome handle is round except for a flat spot on each side stamped “Hurst,” and it slips into the top of the shifter arm (held by spring clips — release by slipping two feeler blades down the sides and pulling up).

Underneath, the factory shifter has molded rubber where each rod connects to the levers; aftermarket Hurst shifters use only a thin separate nylon or steel bushing, and their handles (usually flat) bolt on. The only markings are date codes and a patent number.

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Short answer: Use an original (PMD) Competition Plus shifter and it fits the console without problems. The only functional difference from the aftermarket version is that the factory linkage rods use rubber bushings and are smaller diameter.

A Hurst upgrade kit converts the linkage to the later steel-bushing style for a tighter shifter feel and control — the trade-off is more vibration through the shifter. (Pontiac’s choice to make Hurst standard was widely praised in period magazine tests.)

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Short answer: The 1967 console shell is the same for automatic or manual — only the shift bezel/plate is transmission-specific. So swap your automatic bezel for the 1967 4-speed bezel (repro available), add the stock boot and retainer plate, and a Hurst Competition Plus shifter works with or without the console.

  • From 1968 on, Firebirds came standard with Hurst shifters — the factory shifter has a round stick locked into the body; aftermarket Hurst sticks are flat and bolt on.
  • Watch out: a 1968–69 shifter hits the front of a 1967 console. (One member ran a 1967 4-speed console in a 1968 with the correct 1968 shifter and had to leave the console loose to live with it.)
  • Hurst’s “Street Super Shifter” (straight rods) won’t fit any console; the Indy shifter is uncertain.
  • The boot is almost entirely hidden by the shift plate, so any boot that covers the tunnel hole will do — handy if the tunnel was butchered.

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Short answer: Firebirds could never be ordered with the console gauge package — the image you saw is an early-production photo. Camaros offered it because their factory tach sat in the dash cluster; Pontiac put the Firebird’s tach on the hood, leaving room for the other gauges in the right dash pod.

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Short answer: The correct “PMD” walnut knobs for a 1968 with M/T floor shift:

  • 3-speed: “Pontiac Motor Division” with red crest — pt# 9794301
  • 4-speed: “Pontiac Motor Division” with shift pattern — pt# 9794300

Custom Gearshift Knob was option code 524. There are reports of the earlier 1966–67 “GTO crest” knob on 1967/68 Firebirds — likely from dealer stock; it’s doubtful any 1968 Firebird left the factory with a GTO-crest 4-speed knob.

1968 walnut shifter knob installation drawing
Factory installation drawing for the 3- and 4-speed M/T walnut shifter knobs (dated 1-23-67).

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Short answer: Pull the push button off first (wrap it in a rag and use pliers). Under the knob, around the shaft, is a small snap ring — remove it with expanding snap-ring pliers and the knob lifts off.

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Short answer: No 1968s are known to have left the factory with the white 4-speed knob — possibly an early carry-over using leftover 1967 stock. Even very early 1968s are seen with the black knob, never white.

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Short answer: The correct 1969 console shifter has a brown woodgrain knob with a black push button (the bird emblem is on the end). When released, the button sticks up about 1/4″ above the knob.

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Short answer: A member produced an actual-size template for the 1968 4-speed shifter hole (for a column-to-floor conversion). Print it at actual size and follow the notes below.

1968 4-speed shifter hole template
Actual-size 4-speed shifter mounting-hole template.
  1. Remove the seam sealer along the top of the tunnel (under the dash) — that sheet-metal edge is the reference for all “Y” coordinates. A second reference line aligns with a rolled crease in the tunnel; check both lines agree before trusting them.
  2. Draw a centerline down the middle of the tunnel for all “X” coordinates (mark the center in ~10 spots and connect them — the soft tunnel radius makes this tricky).
  3. The hole is offset to the left, not centered — the shifter mounts on the side of the transmission.
  4. GM cut the factory hole very sloppily (looks torch-cut); to mimic it, cut ~3/16″ smaller all around and melt the edges randomly with a torch.
  5. After cutting, use the boot bezel itself — not the template — to locate the bezel/boot screw holes.

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Short answer: Yes. 1967 automatics (including the 400) used a T-handle with the button inside the T. 1968 automatics used a T-handle with a button that wraps around the top and sides. For 1969, THM-equipped cars switched to a simulated-walnut round knob (button on top), and a T-handle was used only on the 2-speed automatic.

The differences between automatic types were in the linkage mechanism, not the handles. All years had the early “bird” emblem in the pushbutton. The 1969 2-speed shifter was new — it let you speed-shift without skipping a gear (lean the knob right and it detents at the next position, a poor-man’s Dual-Gate).

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Short answer: At the time of this discussion, there was no truly correct reproduction woodgrain for the 1968–69 console, dash trim, radio face, and ashtray — only options ranging from cheap “contact paper” to die-cut pieces that miss on grain/texture, edge and recess forming, and durable adhesive.

The original was woodgrain bonded to thin sheet metal (the metal backing itself is a good repro candidate after 30+ years). The key element is sourcing the correct embossed material for the right appearance, grain, texture, and wear; once that’s found, the dies and forming process are relatively straightforward. The hobby would pay for a properly done part — not another “best we can do” quick fix.

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