Frequently Asked Questions

Find answers to Frequently Asked Questions for First Generation Firebirds that have been asked and answered on FGF. Special thanks needs to be given to all the FGF members who took the time to respond to other member's questions.

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Interior - Heating and Cooling

A/C Refrigerant

Short answer: No alternate refrigerant is a true “drop-in” for R-12, regardless of sales claims — each has drawbacks, and many react badly with R-12 mineral oil. At minimum, flush the system, fit a compatible dryer, use a compatible oil, and use the correct charging fittings.

For a Firebird system the practical choice is 134a — 134a refrigerant, 134a dryer, a multi-compatible oil, and a 134a expansion valve. 134a runs higher head pressure, so a twin-flow condenser is also recommended.

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A/C Reserve Vacuum Tank

Short answer: That small coffee-can-shaped canister mounted to the firewall under the driver’s-side fender is the A/C reserve vacuum tank.

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AC Actuators and Antenna Plug

Short answer: The canister with the vacuum hose is the vacuum reservoir for the A/C system’s actuators (it stores extra vacuum for the controls); the stray wire/plug is the radio antenna lead.

How the A/C actuators work: they’re used only in the “COLD IA” (cold inside air / recirc) position, just left of COLD. Two parallel vacuum pots: one closes the cowl-plenum flapper (shutting off outside air), the other opens the passenger kick-panel vent to draw inside air into the evaporator. “COLD OA” (just right of COLD) switches the vacuum off so the springs return them for outside air. Mid-way toward HOT the compressor switches off and intake air mixes through the heater core; full HOT runs all air through the heater core. VENT opens the plenum and closes the recirc with the compressor off and heater bypassed.

The kick-panel flapper replaces the manual one on non-A/C cars (a domed color-matched cover protects it). Without the actuators you lose the MAX-AC/RECIRC function — likely fine in cooler climates.

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AC and Ram Air

Short answer: No true Ram Air car ever got factory A/C — that means 1967–68 Ram Air I, 1968 Ram Air II, and 1969 Ram Air IV cars. But a 1969 400 H.O. (“Ram Air III”) could get A/C with any transmission.

The reason: the 1969 RA III (the 400 H.O. with cold-air induction) was essentially a standard 400 mechanically — no mandatory 3.90, no special heads, 2-bolt mains (the manual RA III did get the 068 cam) — so PMD allowed A/C. Note the year quirk: A/C wasn’t offered with a manual transmission in 1968, though it could be in 1967 and 1969.

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AC Loses Freon Problem

Short answer: Before tearing into it, find the leak — a shop recharge may be cheaper than you expect. If converting to 134a, a NAPA-type kit (new O-rings + Ester oil) handles it: drain the old oil via the plug on the bottom of the compressor and add new, lube all new O-rings, replace the receiver-dryer, and flush the evaporator/condenser to remove incompatible old oil.

Use denatured alcohol (not brake cleaner) to flush — brake cleaner is too harsh on old rubber. Replace rubber lines with 134a “barrier” hose (134a permeates ordinary hose). And note: 1969 systems have no pressure/cycling switch (those came in the late ’70s/’80s), so the compressor runs on control power even with no Freon — the compressor running doesn’t mean the charge is OK. A clogged evaporator can also kill cooling.

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AC R12 and 134a

Short answer: You don’t need a newer compressor — rebuilt GM A-6 compressors use seals/oil compatible with R-12 or 134a (confirm it’s freshly rebuilt). For a proper 134a conversion: use a kit to replace the O-rings, switch the whole system to Ester (not PAG) oil, change to a 134a-type dryer, and flush every component (compressed air + denatured alcohol, each part separately) to remove all old R-12 oil.

Add the correct oil to each component before reassembly, fit the new-style fittings, and have a licensed shop evacuate and charge it. Install the dryer last (at the shop) so moisture doesn’t ruin it, and replace rubber lines with 134a “barrier” hose.

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Adding After Market AC Unit

Short answer: Doable — figure roughly $1,000 and a weekend. The popular choice is a Vintage Air kit (R134a-compatible, more compact and efficient than the factory system, and most of it hides inside the car — which also makes spark-plug changes far easier than on a factory-A/C car).

The kit is custom-made for the car with the needed brackets and hoses. Both Vintage Air and A/C pros recommend leaving the final charging and testing to a professional (to avoid venting refrigerant) — many capable owners install the kit themselves and have a shop do the charge.

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Dealer Service Information Bulletin 68-I-13 – Revised Procedure For Evaporator Core Removal

Bulletin 68-I-13 — Pontiac Motor Division Dealer Service Information Bulletin, Section 1A, dated October 31, 1967. Attention: Service Manager.

Subject: Revised Procedure for Evaporator Core Removal — 1967–1968 Pontiac, 1968 Tempest, 1967–1968 Firebird 6-Cyl.

Short answer: An improved removal method for the evaporator core or left case half is described below; the flat-rate times in this bulletin supersede those in the 1967 Flat Rate Manual and the new Warranty & Flat Rate Manual immediately.

Evaporator Core — Removal Procedure

  1. Depressurize the refrigeration system.
  2. Disconnect the oil bleed and equalizer line at the P.O.A. valve.
  3. Disconnect P.O.A. inlet and expansion valve outlet fittings and cap all openings.
  4. R&R insulation at the expansion valve thermo bulb and remove clamps.
  5. On Pontiac models, disconnect the water control valve and hose and remove from bracket.
  6. On Pontiac models, remove the screw retaining the expansion valve to the bracket.
  7. Remove the screw or screws from the P.O.A. valve bracket.
  8. Remove screws retaining the left half of the case (inboard side) to the dash and to the right half of the case.
  9. On 1967 Pontiacs, remove the spark plug wire bracket.
  10. Gently pry the case from the sealer (on Pontiac models, use care not to destroy the gasket).
  11. On Tempest V-8, use a long bar and pry up slightly on the right side of the engine to allow removal of the case; on Pontiac models, tilt the top of the case towards the engine. On Firebird and Tempest 6-cyl. models, remove the left case half.
  12. Remove the core.
  13. To replace, reverse the removal procedure.
  14. Use care to reseal the case halves and the case to the dash.

Evaporator Case Left Half — Removal Procedure

1967 and 1968 Pontiacs: Follow the evaporator core removal procedure above; the case half can then be removed.

1968 Tempest Models:

  1. Remove screws attaching the left case half to the dash and to the right case half. Remove the expansion valve bracket retaining screw.
  2. Pry gently on the case and separate from the dash and right case half.
  3. On V-8s, use a long bar to lift the right side of the engine slightly, which allows removal of the case.
  4. Remove the case and reseal.

1967–68 Firebird 6-Cyl. Models:

  1. Remove the P.O.A. valve from the bracket, disconnect the inlet oil bleed and equalizer line, and lay aside.
  2. Disconnect the resistor and relay wires.
  3. Remove the case attaching screws, pry loose, and remove the case. Carefully reseal when assembling.

Revised Flat-Rate Times

Column headers: P = Pontiac, T = Tempest, F = Firebird. Values are in hours.

Flat-Rate Times — Evaporator Service Operations
Operation Model Year P (Pontiac) T (Tempest) F (Firebird)
013-150-00 Evaporator Core — Replace & Seal — 01 6-Cylinder 68 — .9 .9
67 — 2.9 .9
013-150-00 Evaporator Core — Replace & Seal — 02 V-8 68 1.3 1.2 2.4
67 1.3 2.9 2.4
013-152-00 Evaporator Case Assembly — Replace — 01 Left Half (Inboard) — 6-Cylinder
(Do not add for evacuate and charge time on 1968 Tempest)		 68 — .6 .9
67 — 2.9 .9
013-152-00 Evaporator Case Assembly — Replace — 01 Left Half (Inboard) — V-8
(Do not add for evacuate and charge time on 1968 Tempest)		 68 1.3 .8 2.4
67 1.3 2.9 2.4
This is a transcription of the original dealer bulletin for easier reading and search. The complete original scan is shown below.

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Dealer Service Information Bulletin 68-I-36 – Operating Instructions for 1968 Pontiac Custom Air Conditioning System

Bulletin 68-I-36 — Pontiac Motor Division Dealer Service Information Bulletin, Section 1A, dated January 31, 1968. Attention: Service Manager.

Subject: Operating Instructions for 1968 Pontiac Custom Air Conditioning System.

Short answer: Owners and service personnel should understand the two rotary switches and six mode buttons of the 1968 Pontiac Custom A/C system; the Freon compressor operates automatically above freezing in any mode except VENT, and each button directs airflow differently.

There appears to be some lack of understanding as to proper operation of the new 1968 Pontiac Custom Air Conditioning system. Owners’ acceptance of this new and flexible system will be much greater if they are instructed as to its proper operation at the time of new car delivery or when cars are in for service.

The control panel should be used as follows: Set the two rotary switches on the left and right side of the control to the desired blower speed and air temperature, respectively. With the SYSTEM button in the OFF position, depress any one of the other five buttons (INSIDE, A/C, BI-LEVEL, HEATER, or DE-ICE). The system will now operate in the mode and at the temperature and blower speed selected. If ambient temperature is above freezing, the Freon compressor will also automatically operate to minimize potential fogging. If it is desired not to operate the Freon compressor, it can be shut off by merely depressing the SYSTEM button to the first detent stop, at which time VENT will appear in the left window. If any other button except SYSTEM is then depressed, the Freon compressor will again operate (temperature above freezing) until the SYSTEM button is once again depressed to VENT. An ambient switch prevents Freon compressor operation whenever the temperature is below freezing.

Air flow from the various outlets in the system is controlled by the mode buttons, in order of occurrence on the panel:

1968 Pontiac Custom Air Conditioning — Mode Button Reference
Button Button Position System Function
1. SYSTEM OFF Air door closed and blower off.
1. SYSTEM ON Mode as selected by other five buttons — Freon compressor operating if temperature is above freezing.
1. SYSTEM VENT Mode as selected by other five buttons — Freon compressor off.
2. INSIDE Depressed Inside air is recirculated at temperature and blower speed as desired through five A/C outlets. This mode is suited for quick cool-down in hot weather.
3. A/C Depressed Outside air delivered at temperature & blower speed as desired through five A/C outlets. Suited to normal hot weather operation.
3. A/C Depressed w/VENT Supplies air through five A/C outlets which is the same temperature as outside air temperature (control set to all blue bars) or air may be heated by rotating the temperature control toward maximum heat (all red bars).
4. BI-LEVEL Depressed Outside air delivered through A/C and heater outlets at temperature and blower speed desired.
5. HEATER Depressed Outside air delivered through heater outlet at temperature and blower speed desired. Suited to cold weather operation.
5. HEATER Depressed w/VENT Outside air delivered through heater outlet at temperature and blower speed desired. Freon compressor is off.
6. DE-ICE Depressed Outside air delivered to windshield at temperature and blower speed desired. System button “ON” is recommended at all times for removing fog or ice from the windshield.
Refer owners to page 40 of the Owner’s Manual.
This is a transcription of the original dealer bulletin for easier reading and search. The complete original scan is shown below.

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Firebird with M/T and A/C 1968

Short answer: Factory literature says A/C (order #582) was not offered with a manual transmission on the 1968 Firebird — the A/C sales brochure lists it only with automatic, and the service manual’s radiator/rear-axle usage charts show no A/C for M/T V8s. Multiple original owners report being denied the combination when ordering.

There’s one conflicting source: a 1968 Pontiac Sales Album power-train chart (dated 8-10-67) shows certain 3-speed combos (engine codes 341/343/344/345 with a 3.23 axle) could be ordered with A/C, but not with the 3.55 axle, and not the 250 4-bbl (ZD) Sprint with 3.55. Summary across years: 1967 offered A/C on all but Ram Air (even Sprint), but only up to a 3.36 axle; 1968–69 didn’t offer A/C with the 400 manual, or with Sprints (auto or manual); a handful of 1969 Ram Air cars (and 32 T/As) had A/C. A documented M/T-with-A/C 1968 has not surfaced.

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Freon R-12 Replacement

Short answer: The two refrigerants themselves are compatible, but the oil is the problem — R-134a isn’t compatible with R-12 mineral oil (the oil must dissolve in the refrigerant to circulate and lubricate). So “just top off a low R-12 system with 134a” is not the right fix.

The correct conversion: remove and drain the compressor, flush the lines with solvent (removing ~80–90% of the old oil), refill with the correct PAG or Ester oil, reassemble, evacuate, and recharge with 134a. Be skeptical of the “just add this oil” bottle kits — A/C seminar instructors couldn’t explain how they’d actually work. (Some “R-12 substitute” blends contain R-12 plus 134a and even butane — not safe.)

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Heater Cables 1969

Short answer: For a non-A/C (cable, not vacuum) 1969, there are three color-coded cables at the controller:

  • Blue tab = defrost — hooks top-left on the controller and to the defrost gate near the gas pedal.
  • Black tab = heater on/off — hooks top-right on the same slide as the defrost cable (same lever); the other end hooks nearly opposite the defrost cable on the passenger side.
  • Red tab = temperature — hooks on the bottom of the controller; the other end goes on top of the heater-core box behind the glovebox.

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Installing AC on a Non-AC Car

Short answer: Converting a non-A/C car to factory A/C is doable but involved — the biggest job is the firewall (the holes differ between A/C and non-A/C), plus a cut for the fresh-air flapper in the passenger-side cowl, and a lot of plumbing. R-12 is gone, so plan on a 134a-capable compressor/dryer.

An aftermarket kit (Vintage Air, sold cheaper through Classic Industries) is well regarded by street-rodders — but Vintage Air says you can’t mix their kit parts with factory A/C controls, and the firewall block-off plate is specific to A/C vs. non-A/C cars, so decide up front whether you’re keeping the factory dash controls.

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Power Flow Ventilation

Short answer: No — a fan motor with a fresh-air slide is the standard heater/vent system. Power-Flo Ventilation was a separate 1969 option (also 1969–70 full-size and mid-size Pontiacs/Buicks): two small blowers in the upper cowl that push air out the lower-corner dash vents even at a standstill.

The blower motors were the same as the rear defogger; the two-speed switch was marked “AIR / HIGH / LOW” (it looked like the power-top/antenna/defogger switches and went in one of the dash switch openings — 1969 Service Manual p.15-16, fig. 15-27). It was available factory or as a dealer accessory package. Genuine Firebird examples are very scarce — it was a cheap way to move air in cars where A/C wasn’t available (Ram Air IV, Sprint).

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Power-Flo Ventilation for 1969

Short answer: Power-Flo Ventilation was a 1969-only Firebird option (also on 1969–70 full-size Pontiacs and Buicks) for non-A/C cars, about $15 — two blower assemblies mounted in the cowl that push air through the upper vents.

The Pontiac rocker switch had “AIR” in the center and “HIGH”/”LOW” on the ends. It could be factory or dealer installed (the accessory kit was sold over the counter). It most likely landed in cars where A/C wasn’t available (Ram Air IV, Sprint). It’s rare — and the blower assemblies from other GM lines don’t fit the Firebird straight up.

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