Frequently Asked Questions

Short answer: First decide your year, whether you want a finished car or a project, and whether you prefer factory-original or modified — then inspect carefully (a finished, near-original car costs more up front but is cheaper in the long run).

Below: current market prices, what each year means for a buyer, how to inspect the car, and how to verify the paperwork before you hand over money.

What to Expect to Pay

As of mid-2026, CLASSIC.COM’s market tracker puts the average first-gen Firebird sale at about $56,000. In practice: solid driver-quality cars trade around $35,000–$45,000, rough projects still sell for under $10,000, and the best cars — 400 convertibles and documented Ram Air cars — reach into six figures. For a specific year/engine/condition, check the free Hagerty Valuation Tool. Prices move; treat these as a snapshot.

Year-by-Year Buying Notes

1967 — The only year with vent windows, the 326 engine, and a silver grille surround, and the only year without side marker lamps (spotter’s guide). Many 1967 details are one-year-only, so a ’67 missing its trim or glass can cost noticeably more to complete. Verify those pieces are present and correct before agreeing on price.

1968 — Vent windows gone, arrowhead side markers added, 350 replaced the 326. The highest-production year (107,112 built), so more cars and parts survive — often the best value entry point. Watch for mid-year running changes when ordering parts; our 1968 section covers the details.

1969 — All-new sheet metal and a long model year that ran into fall 1969. The Trans Am arrived: 689 hardtops and 8 convertibles, all Cameo White with blue stripes — which means genuine ’69 Trans Ams are among the most cloned Pontiacs in existence. Never buy one without PHS documentation and a hidden VIN check.

Verify Before You Pay

Every serious purchase should include a paperwork check that costs less than a tank of gas:

• Order PHS documentation first. PHS Automotive Services will send the factory invoice or billing history for any 1961–86 Pontiac VIN — proof of the engine, transmission, colors, and options the car was born with. Order it before money changes hands, not after.
• Cross-check the numbers. The dash VIN, the Body Tag Decoder output, the engine block codes, and the PHS invoice should all tell the same story. If the seller’s story requires an explanation for a mismatch, price the car as what the numbers say it is.
• Check the hidden VINs. GM stamped partial VINs in concealed locations; see our Hidden VIN Locations reference. On expensive cars (Ram Air, Trans Am), this is how re-bodies and clones get caught.
• Match the title. The title VIN must match the dash VIN exactly, and the seller’s name should match the title. Check for salvage or flood branding and run a lien check (Auto Appraisal Group lists title fraud among the most common classic car scams).

Buying Long-Distance: Red Flags

Most first-gen purchases now start online, and scammers know it. The recurring patterns (Auto Appraisal Group, FTC):

• A price well below market on a desirable car, usually with stolen photos. If the seller won’t allow an in-person look, walk away.
• Seller-suggested “escrow” services — scammers build fake escrow sites they control. Verify any escrow service independently; never use a link the seller provides.
• Urgency — another buyer waiting, an overseas deployment, a family emergency. A legitimate seller gives you time to verify.
• Payment by wire, gift card, or crypto. Don’t.

If you can’t inspect the car yourself, hire an independent pre-purchase inspector — and ask in our forums; there may be a member near the car willing to look at it.

The Purchase Price Is the Entry Fee

Before choosing between a $15,000 project and a $45,000 finished car, price the distance between them. Professional restoration labor runs $85–$150+ per hour in 2026, and even a driver-quality restoration typically totals $20,000–$50,000 — see the numbers in our Restoration Guide. That’s why the cheapest car is rarely the cheapest project: a finished, documented car at a fair price is usually the better buy unless the restoration itself is the hobby you want.

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.

Short answer: One member’s approach to buying: do a nationwide search (he used a Hemmings search agent, “The Locator,” and also combed two years of old Hemmings at the library — many advertised cars never sell and owners become eager months later). Once serious about a car, learn all you can by phone, get photos, then hire a local auto appraiser near the seller (~$100) as your eyes for an independent, documented opinion before you negotiate.

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.

Short answer: One member shipped a 1968 350 convertible (Boston to Seattle) with Intercity Vanlines (intercitylines.com), which uses fully enclosed trucks — very careful and recommended, though pricing competitiveness wasn’t confirmed.

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.

Short answer: Two member tips for shipping a car: ask the driver/haulers hanging around a large wholesale auto auction — they have good logistics and try to fill their rigs. And be cautious with transport brokers: one member’s experience with “Best Discount Shippers” (BDS) went badly — brokers sometimes don’t pay the actual truckers, making loads hard to fill, so he canceled and disputed the charge through Visa.

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.

Short answer: $17,000+ was considered high for any non-Ram-Air 400 H.O. coupe, even a strong #2 car. The 1968 400 H.O. (and 1969 400 H.O./RA III) bring only modest premiums over a standard 400 — the H.O. added Long Branch manifolds and the 068 performance cam/carb (4-speed only), so the auto H.O. cars are close to a standard 400.

One member’s price ranges for a solid driver (high-3 / low-2 condition) — note these are from ~2000; “?” = guesswork, and today’s values are much higher:

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Short answer: For a nice 1967 326 H.O. coupe as described, ~$7,950 was a good estimate. 400 cars and convertibles command more (roughly +$1,000 for a convertible, +$1,000 for the larger base engine), and Ram Airs, Sprints, and H.O.s draw top dollar. Ultimately it’s worth what a buyer will pay.

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.

Short answer: For a 1968 400 convertible in good shape, ~$9,500 was a reasonable asking price, adjusting for options (roughly −$1,000 for a coupe, −$1,000 for a smaller base engine). Ram Airs, Sprints, and H.O.s draw top dollar.

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.

Short answer: For a 1969 250-six 4-speed coupe: roughly $3,000 needing restoration (body intact) and ~$7,500 fully restored — more for a convertible or special options. Ram Airs, Sprints, and H.O.s command top dollar; Trans Ams are nearly impossible to price.

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.