Frequently Asked Questions

Find answers to Frequently Asked Questions for First Generation Firebirds that have been asked and answered on FGF. Special thanks needs to be given to all the FGF members who took the time to respond to other member's questions.

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Engine - 400 Specific

Short answer: That number near the distributor is the block casting number — the full number is 9786133, which denotes a 1967 400 cid block (it’s like a part number, not the sequential build/serial number, which is on the front passenger side). Source: Pontiac Muscle Car Performance 1955–1979 by Pete McCarthy.

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Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am

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Short answer: Built properly, a Pontiac 400 will make 450+ hp with commonly available parts. The big-picture rules: use a competent machine shop (don’t scrimp on the block), match the cam to the heads, and clean everything obsessively. Component-by-component specifics are below. (This is a built street/strip engine; for a stock rebuild, see the milder rebuild FAQs.)

Block: Bore .060 over (413 cubes), hone to a #625 Sunnen finish with .003 piston clearance, minimum deck. Unshroud the valves at the bore, confirm main saddle alignment within .001, remove casting flash, re-tap/deburr, tap oil galleries for threaded plugs, drill an .042 hole in the right-rear plug for distributor-gear cooling, chamfer the oil-filter and oil-pump holes, and elongate the front oil-return hole for fast drainage. Clean with hot water and dish soap (rifle rod for galleries, 12-ga brush for lifter galleries, 9mm for the rest), then WD-40, re-clean, blow dry, and oil the cylinders immediately.

Crank: Use an early 350 crank (lighter, thinner throws), magnaflux, heat-treat (case harden), shot-peen, straighten. Grind .010 mains, offset-grind the rods .015 for more stroke (.020 undersize to get the offset), cross-drill, chamfer the oil holes, micro-polish; run .002 main clearance. A late 400 crank also works (avoid very late ones — different flange).

Pistons: Lighten the forged 400 pistons (machine the back of the dome or the pin-boss area; thin-wall tool-steel pins help). Moly rings only with the #625 finish; end gap .014 top, .018 second.

Rods: Upgrade to at least ’73–74 SD rods or Carrillo (you’ll rev past 7000). Run .002–.0025 clearance, racing bearings, grooved uppers; torque rods by stretch to +.005–.008.

Oil pump: Milodon 455 H.O. pump, tack-weld the pickup; Loctite the cover screws.

Windage tray: Stock ’65–73 4/5 tray (full-length if possible), modified with cut openings + perforated metal welded in to fling oil into the pan (worth 10–15 hp).

Cam: Call Bob Cook at Competition Cams (800-999-0853) and spec it to your combo — he won’t let you over-cam it.

Heads: Any big-valve early Pontiac head with 2.11″ intake / 1.77″ exhaust valves and screwed-in studs. Good D-port castings: 16, 12, 13, 62, 48 (72cc chambers → ~9.7–10:1). On a street engine don’t fully port — just open the bowl under the valve and blend; gasket-match the ports. New bronze guides, hardened exhaust seats, multi-angle valve job, spring dampers, a late baffled valve cover. Don’t use factory (thick) head gaskets; use head studs.

Intake: A Torker or (preferably) a Doug Nash, with a 750 Holley and the thickest carb spacer your hood allows. Third choice: a gasket-matched early stock manifold with the #7 runner relieved.

Ignition: MSD #8563 distributor, 6AL box #6420, Blaster coil #8202, and a Soft Touch Rev Control #8738 (or 2-Step #8739). Big plug wires, stock-heat-range AC plugs gapped .035. Keep total timing 34–38°, all in around 4000 RPM (not 1800 — that just rattles and pings).

Headers: 4-tube if they install cleanly, but 3-tube “Tri-Y” headers are easier and make great low-end torque; use a crossover and a slightly smaller tube at the muffler.

Flywheel/balancing: For a 4-speed, a neutral aluminum flywheel with the engine internally balanced gives a softer launch and quicker revs. The stock damper is fine — torque it to 160 ft-lbs.

Nitrous: Build a strong engine and add mild nitrous rather than over-spraying a mediocre one.

Done right (with the chassis, gears of 4.33–4.88, slicks, and a race-prepped TH350), this is an 11-second — potentially low-10-second — combination.

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Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am

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Short answer: The clue is the partial VIN stamp (20P105982): the leading 0 means a 1970 car, and the P means it was built at the Pontiac assembly plant (which was building full-size cars like Catalina/Bonneville that year). For 1970, “YD” indicates a 2-barrel 400, ~290 gross hp from a full-size Pontiac — so this engine isn’t a 1967 Firebird 400.

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Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am

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Short answer: A firsthand account from a member who raced a 1968 Ram Air convertible (with Pontiac engineering contacts) — on the 400’s special engineering and how the Ram Air engine behaved.

  • “Safe at 160”: after the Corvair “unsafe at any speed” era, the 400 got chassis reinforcements not on the Camaro or 350 — triple-welded rear spring shackles and lengthened front control arms (rear attach point ~13″ behind the axle) for much more strength.
  • Ram Air engine: built to hold together to ~8000 rpm with special anti-pump-up lifters, but redlined at 5100 only because oil pooled under the valve covers faster than it could drain (he blew a valve cover proving it).
  • Fuel at sustained high rpm: the float valve opening is too small; substituting the 1/8″ seat and float from a Buick Roadmaster largely fixed it. He also added an electric pump at the tank as a booster. Fuel use was heavy — ~5 gallons over four 1/4-mile runs; ~8 mpg with the 4.11 axle, ~12 with the 3.08.
  • Linkage: the Corvette logarithmic throttle linkage (only up to 1/2 throttle until the last 1/8″) made it far more drivable, especially in the rain.
  • Top speed: with the 3.08 he saw 165 (redline 150) in a short safe blast, with plenty left — though turbulence made the ride rough; better aero was wanted.
  • Cam: the Ram Air cam had more overlap and ~.100″ more lift, requiring doubled valve springs — which is why bolting just the Ram Air intake onto a standard 400 doesn’t transform it (though the RA intake alone adds ~15 hp from better volumetric efficiency).

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Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am

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Short answer: “400 Sport Option” is a label seen in the parts and accessory catalogs. The “400” option included more than the engine — it added appearance and performance items: chrome grille moldings, the front-bumper Pontiac Crest emblem, “400” emblems on the hood and deck lid, redline tires, chrome engine trim, dual exhaust, the 4-barrel carb, and firmer shocks/springs.

In the accessory catalog, a “Sport Options” heading actually grouped all the Sprint, 350, 350 H.O., and 400 models — so effectively every Firebird except the base one-barrel OHC-6 was a “Sport Option.” In common use this got shortened to just the “400” option. It’s referenced in the 1968 Pontiac Sales Manual.

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.

Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am

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Content last modified: June 9, 2026 at 7:10 am