Frequently Asked Questions

Find answers to Frequently Asked Questions for First Generation Firebirds that have been asked and answered on FGF. Special thanks needs to be given to all the FGF members who took the time to respond to other member's questions.

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Interior - Doors

Short answer: Yes — all 1968–72 GM A-body cars (Chevelle, GTO/LeMans, Cutlass, Monte Carlo, Skylark, etc.) use the same armrest pad and base as the 1968–69 Firebird/Camaro standard interior, and the inside door handles are the same. They turn up at wreckers in all colors.

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Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am

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Short answer: The 1968 Custom Trim option (554) included: Custom seat covers (Morrokide + stitched knit vinyl), custom molded door and quarter trim panels, the assist bar above the glovebox, dual horns, deluxe wheel covers, deluxe steering wheel, custom pedal trim, front & rear wheel-opening moldings, drip-rail moldings (coupes), and windshield-pillar garnish moldings.

The RH sideview mirror was not part of the option. Everything in the package could be ordered separately on a Standard-trim car except the custom seats/trim panels and the assist bar. (And contrary to a common claim, the etched “Bird” front-side glass was not tied to Custom Trim — many original Standard-trim cars have it.) More on FGF.

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Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am

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Short answer: Those bullet-shaped plastic inserts (which hold the metal door-panel clips in the door) are hard to find — parts counters stock the metal clip but not the insert.

Member fix (~$0.10 each): a 3/8″ drywall anchor has the right outside diameter. Drill the inside out with a 5/32″ bit about 5/8″ deep, trim off the three side ribs (the drywall grippers) with a razor knife, and it snaps into the door hole and grips the clip perfectly.

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Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am

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Short answer: The only difference between 1968 and 1969 door panels is the door-lock-knob hole location — 1968 has it near the rear of the door; 1969 moved it about 9–10″ forward (a GM-wide change so drivers didn’t have to reach behind themselves). New Custom-trim panels are identical until that hole is punched.

So the cleanest path is a blank repro set punched for your year. Reproductions actually beat the originals here — they use ABS plastic instead of the original cardboard, which warps and rots when wet. Used panels only swap cleanly from the same year (1969 onto 1968 puts the lock hole in the wrong place).

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.

Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am

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Short answer: On 1968s, only the coupe has the flow-through vents in the quarter panel at the door jamb — convertibles do not. In 1969, both body styles got them.

This flow-through ventilation replaced the wing (vent) windows. Convertibles did not need it — they leak enough air on their own.

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Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am

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Short answer: If you have the PHS billing history, it lists the four-digit ignition and trunk key codes — take them to a GM dealer, who can look up the cuts in the key-code book and punch a key. If not, the four-digit codes are stamped on the original door and trunk lock cylinders (the door matches the ignition, the trunk matches the glovebox).

Keys have six cuts with five possible depths each (read head-to-tip with the head to the right). Example: a 1967 ignition/door code 7W05 = cuts 532242; trunk/glovebox 2X52 = 431132. Dealers use a punch/notch tool (not a grinder). Correct 1967 blanks: “A” blank for door/ignition (octagon head, Briggs & Stratton logo), “B” blank for trunk/glovebox (rounded scalloped head). Dealers also stock tumblers to re-key any cylinder.

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Short answer: No — 1968 and 1969 parchment differ in shade. The only way to get all panels to match is to spray them (the more correct term than “dye”). Check the archives for more on parchment spraying.

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Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am

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Short answer: A horseshoe-shaped wire clip behind the crank locks it to the knurled shaft. Push the door panel in, look behind the crank with a flashlight, hook the clip with a thin stiff tool (a coat hanger bent ~1/4″ at 90° works, or a spring puller), and pull it — the clip pops out and the crank slides straight off.

Note the order of the coil spring and plastic spacer behind the crank. To reinstall, snap the clip back on, then push the crank onto the knurled shaft until it snaps over and locks. Go gently — don’t damage the door panel.

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Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am

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Short answer: 1968 and 1969 window cranks are the same, but there are two shaft lengths where the handle attaches — short for Standard trim, longer for Custom trim (to clear the thick padded door panels). The rears are the same Standard or Custom. (1967 fronts may differ.)

The 1968–69 regulators are the same (fronts in the two lengths for standard/custom; rears 1967–69 the same). Tip: since the chrome is usually what goes bad, buy replacement cranks from the parts-store “Help” line and swap your colored knobs onto them — or dye clear/white knobs with Rit heated to boiling, dipping until the color matches.

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.

Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am

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Content last modified: June 9, 2026 at 7:10 am