Frequently Asked Questions
Find answers to Frequently Asked Questions for First Generation Firebirds that have been asked and answered on FGF. Special thanks needs to be given to all the FGF members who took the time to respond to other member's questions.
Engine - Ignition System
Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am
NOTE: Updated by Dealer Service Information Bulletin 68-I-48
Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am
Short answer: Gap the plugs to match your ignition, not the head castings: a points distributor takes about .040″, while HEI takes about .055″.
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Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am
Short answer: The cheapest electronic upgrade is a junkyard GM HEI distributor from a Pontiac V8 (~$10) — it bolts on. The catch: you must run a full 12V wire to the distributor, because the stock resistor wire only supplies ~6–8V. HEIs are nearly maintenance-free (no points or dwell), start easier, foul plugs less, and outperform points.
Three ways to go electronic: (1) almost any late-model Pontiac HEI distributor (e.g., from a 1977 Trans Am); (2) a points-replacement kit (Mallory or Accel) that converts your existing distributor; or (3) a full aftermarket electronic distributor (Mallory or Accel).
- Fit (check before buying): firewall clearance is tight — many cars fit fine, some need the firewall tapped in ~1/4–1/2″ (especially if you add an Accel Supercoil). First check your body bushings and subframe position; worn bushings or a rearward subframe cause the clearance problem (modify the firewall with the engine out, using a block of wood and a hammer). Best to borrow one and test-fit the cap before buying. A Mallory Unilite (stock-looking, red cap) is a good alternative, especially on a 4-speed car.
- Keep it reversible for show: rather than hacking the resistor wire, solder a parallel #16 wire to the same firewall-junction terminal and tape off the old one.
- Install: re-gap the plugs (~.045–.060″), use thicker plug wires (needed for the HEI cap), and use di-electric grease (new units include it). Prefer a genuine GM HEI over an Accel clone.
- High rpm: GM HEIs drop current above ~4600 RPM — use an aftermarket HEI-style distributor if you rev high.
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Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am
Short answer: There’s no “small-cap” HEI for a Pontiac block. Whether one fits a Firebird is a bit of a crapshoot — some cars need the firewall clearanced and some don’t. The difference is usually the condition of the body bushings and subframe (worn-out mounting pads let things shift and cause the clearance problem), so check those before reaching for a hammer.
Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.
Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am
Short answer: Installing an HEI won’t reduce knock except by coincidence — it’s the advance curve that matters (an HEI only helps if it happens to have less centrifugal advance or a stiffer vacuum-advance spring). If knock is your only complaint, fix the advance on your current distributor instead.
Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.
Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am
Short answer: Turning the key to nothing — no click — while lights and charging work points to: a loose/maladjusted neutral-safety switch (try shifting firmly into Park and back), a dead spot on the starter (dirty commutator/brush — tap the starter housing with a hammer while someone keys it; if it then cranks, replace the starter), or a loose battery/starter cable (even one that feels tight).
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Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am
Short answer: If you have power but the starter won’t crank (a bad solenoid or starter), you can bypass the solenoid to get home: with the ignition in the run position, lay a screwdriver across the battery-cable post and the adjacent (driver’s-side) terminal on the solenoid — it’ll crank and start.
Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.
Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am
Content last modified: June 9, 2026 at 7:10 am
